Well I have so many damn problems I cant seem to figure out. Here is a post from preludeonline from me so far just so I dont have totype tha same **** over again and get the same questions. Any input is greatly apreciated

"Well I still have some REALLY small stuff to do with it beforegetting the hondata tuned...but in hte meantime I have some issues I cant figure out!

The motor is perfectly timed. I triple checked it and had a shop look at it to be sure. And I am using the p13 right now. And I have broke it in for aproximatly 350 miles (dont know for sure because my VSS went out)

Ok 1st... I put the pedal to the floor in 5th at like 2000rpms and it will studder and then fall on its face so bad that I would hit the steering wheel if I wasnt wearing my seat belt. I cant figure it out. Could it just be the lack of tuning with the 370cc injectors. Its running extremly rich because my cheasy AF gauge doesnt move from rich ever.

2nd It is smoking so bad I smoked out my roomate driving behind me only reving to 4000 rpms. I cant tell if it is blue or white...but its really bad. I did a comp ck and had 225 across the board with 11:5:1 pistons.

I also plan on doind a leak down check so any input is greatly apreciated
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Your probably just running rich, I notice a little stink from my car also.....you should still do the tests though.....is the p13 on 370s giving enough fuel? Id say too much if anything.....

Good luck
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Yeah Its really rich but the smoke doesnt look like fuel at all. I am just really concerned because I dont want to waste my money getting the hondata tuned if I have a serious problem. Not to mention the 4hour drive I will bedoing just to get to balanced performance
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Hmmm......I would think that it may be running rich.

And the smoke: maybe it's just your rings haven't seated yet?

PM me w/ your number, Chris! I'm gonna try to head up there today, but my boss just told me she's leavin at 1:00, which will leave me here alone w/ noone to cover for me ;(
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I dont reallt know if its rich because I though if it was too rich it would blow out black smoke.
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Where the hell's my mind today.....no more workin mornings for me! You're gettin it tuned NEXT week.....

So you do think it looks like an oil smoke? Have you pulled the plugs yet? Pull them and see how they look.
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the plugs are black as black can be with a tint of brown on the tips. They just look a very helthy rich.

And now I have another problem VTEC does not work at all! I just changed my vss because it wasnt working and I thought that was my no vtec problem but its not! It doesnt engage at all.

I know everything is good because I am using all hte sensors from my old h22 so well I give up for today I just cant figure out this ****!

Oh and thesmoke is pretty damn blue. so I guess iis and oil problem of some sort."

 

Too bad that the good news has to be downed by the bad. But good ****, give us an update when one is available

 

Yeah this really just makes me upset. I have put soo much tome and money into this motor and its not cooperating. I am about to take the motor out and throw it off of a cliff!

 

Anyone else got any ideas? I am totally lost!

 

im running 12; 2 1 compression and my car runs like crap with pump gas. you can try to run a couple gallons of race gas and try to tighten the valve lash a little

 

You think thr valve lash has that much to do with it? I mean I adjusted them to the specs for the crower cams and triple checked it. I triple checked everything before I finished any job thatI did with thos motor that why I am soo pissed!

 

whoo hoo VTEC WORKS!!!!! All it was is that I am burnig so much oil I wasdoen a quart. SoI put in a qt of oil and bada bing bada boom VTEC works!

But still I am using so much oil I will never rev this thing that high to engage vtec ever again! I really cant figure this **** out

 

Well I commend you on building an H23/22 hybrid...but I want to ask you if you feel satisfied with it. I mean how much did you really spend? Just curious, because I don't think it's worth the money time just to be different, but I've never owned one, so I'm asking if YOU think it was worth the hassle, and if it's still worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok 1st... I put the pedal to the floor in 5th at like 2000rpms and it will studder and then fall on its face so bad that I would hit the steering wheel if I wasnt wearing my seat belt. I cant figure it out. Could it just be the lack of tuning with the 370cc injectors. Its running extremly rich because my cheasy AF gauge doesnt move from rich ever.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

well withthe stock -13 i am having the same problem with my f22/vtec. in some gears once the car has warmed up and thrown the CEL for not knock sensor the car in the low end will fall on its face so hard sometimes. here is why:

with my setup i have the lack of the knock sensor, and when the ecu sees that it throws the CEL, and when there is a problem with the knock the computer does 2 things, adds alot of fuel, and pulls timing. now sometimes depending on when i get on it in the low end the car just falls on its face until vtec then rips.

my guess is with the 370s on the stock p13 its just throwing to much fuel. its just runing it to rich. which brings me to the next thing, i don't know what kind of smoke you are blowing but how it smells can tell alot about whats going on. my car blows some smoke because the ecu is richening it up like crazy. i think if you had a true a/f gauge you would see whats really ahppening.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whoo hoo VTEC WORKS!!!!! All it was is that I am burnig so much oil I wasdoen a quart. SoI put in a qt of oil and bada bing bada boom VTEC works!

But still I am using so much oil I will never rev this thing that high to engage vtec ever again! I really cant figure this **** out </TD></TR></TABLE>

so your burning oil? well that can be a couple of things, and i would start by doing a leak down test. if that comes out ok then it could be your valave seals.. what do you have done to the head?

 

i thought it was worth it. but then again i spent $50 for hg, $100 for blue print and balanced injectors, $30 im gasket, $20 for oil, and $40 for timing belt....h23 block was traded for some stuff from a friend

 

please tell me you honed the block before putting type-s pistons or new pistons in it.


my h23vtec runs great never had a problem but cause i did everything there is to do on the bottom end. i spend a lot of money so everything is right. the oil burning sounds like the rings arent sealing properly. you might get a 220 across the board but its different when hot gasses pass around the rings because of bad cylinder walls.

 

Ok so ther is no more confusion Here is the mod list...
H23 block
balanced crank
cyro frozen and shot peened oem rods
JE 11:5:1 compression pistons
H22 oil squirters
stock bore Iron Sleeves (cant remember brand)

H22 Head
Crower springs and Retainers
Crower stage 2 cams
Mild valve job
Copper valve guides
Mild port and polish job
AEM Cam gears

Bolt ons and so forth
JUN Header!
Test Pipe
Apexi WS cat back exhaust
AEM high flow fuel rail
Accel 370cc injectors
B&M fuel pressure gauge
AEM 3" cold air intake
Hondata intake manifold gasket
ACT HDSS Clutch
Clutchmasters 8LB flywheel
Energy suspension motor mount inserts
Secondary butterflys removed
Removed EGR

So thats pretty much it. The valves seals and rings are new. And like I said the comp test was 225 across the board. I am going to do a leak down tomorrow and see whats up with it. I got a bad feeling its the headgasket for some reason!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the_eyecon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I commend you on building an H23/22 hybrid...but I want to ask you if you feel satisfied with it. I mean how much did you really spend? Just curious, because I don't think it's worth the money time just to be different, but I've never owned one, so I'm asking if YOU think it was worth the hassle, and if it's still worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I spent around 4k for everything so far. I cracked my h22's block so I had to get a whole new block andsrart from scratch. The head and block were all bought seperat thats why it was so much. I still have the old h22 I am gonna tear down and sell so it should in the long run be worth it. If it runs good and puts down good #'s with the hondata tuned I will be very happy with it.

 

well i don't know what the smoke looks like / smells like but i doubt that you head gasket is causing you to burn oil, if the head gasket was fucked up enough to get all the way over to where an oil passage is then you would DEF be burning coolant and overflowing the radiator

 

good point didnt even think of that. thanks for the help.

Like I said I used a qt of oil in only like 400 miles! I know I am running extremly rich too so I think the smoke is a combination. I am gonna check to see if Iam consuming any coolant too.

 

Ok I havnt burned or lost a drop of coolant! WHEEW thats a big load off of my shoulders. I wonder if maybe I forgot to install something when putting on the head that could cause oil leakage? I dunno I am running out of ideas

 

well don't feel bad; i'm now in the troubleshooting stage of my motor, too, and it's givin me hell!

There's only so many places to loose oil through the combustion chamber: the rings, the valves, the valve seats, or valve stem seals.

You have new seals, so that's not the prob.

The valves and valve seats: maybe? Were new valves used?

Rings: maybe.....was ring end gap set correctly? Did you hone correctly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well don't feel bad; i'm now in the troubleshooting stage of my motor, too, and it's givin me hell!

There's only so many places to loose oil through the combustion chamber: the rings, the valves, the valve seats, or valve stem seals.

You have new seals, so that's not the prob.

The valves and valve seats: maybe? Were new valves used?

Rings: maybe.....was ring end gap set correctly? Did you hone correctly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the only way oil is going to get passed the valves is the valve seals, if they are good then oil will never reach the valve seats..

im thinking rings..

 

I just read your PO.com post, and I may have found your problem.

I see that you're runnin forged pistons w/ sleeves. You also broke in the motor on synthetic oil.

With iron sleeves, I am pretty sure that they recommend you honing the cylinders to a much rougher finish than w/ normal FRM sleeves.

When breaking in your motor, you must use normal dino-oil because synthetic oil is too "slippery". If you use synthetic while breakin in, the mating surfaces won't mesh together very well, and it won't break in correctly.

On old air cooled VW's, they had very rough hone finishes. If you used synthetic and didn't break it in correctly, you would get exactly the same thing you are getting: a motor that burns oil like there's no tomorrow.

 

so my question is, if he changes his oil to dino oil, runs it for a bit, and changes it agian to get all the synthetic out, i wonder if there is still a chance it will properly seat and break in

 

Hmm I will change the oil tomorrow and see.

 

damn that's rough... good luck i hope it works out

 

yeah my crower cams install sheet says to use regular petrolium oil for break in too. I guess I will try that tomorrow

 

Well I've only got most of my experience in old AC VW's, and if you used synthetic and it ate enough of the hone off the walls or seated enough of the rings improperly, you would have to throw in a new set of rings and rehone the cylinders.

IIRC, you've put about 350 miles on it so far, right? I would try the switch to dino oil. Swap in some normal oil, run it for about 20-30 minutes and get it nice and warm, then change the oil and filter and put in more normal oil.

I'm not sure what Crower recommends, but after letting it break in the cams for a short while, I would beat on the motor some (higher rev's under load) to try to help the rings seat.

 

I am confused...what the hell is dinno oil? Never heard of it. But if I know by tomorrow I will try it. hell I will try anything to get this **** right!