New Adjustable upper A-arm from SPC
I was at International Auto Salon in SoCal yesterday, and will be as soon as I'm done typing this....but here's what I found out from the people at SPC:
New pictures added to the bottom of my post
1. cast aluminium
2. adjustable camber
3. adjustable caster
4. retail of $180 each
Here are the picture:

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Here's how they add in the caster, the bolt on the ball joint can be offset, square washer aligns it in the A-arm, and the square washer can be turned to provide a different mounting offset...not the best description, but I hope that the picture is a little easier to understand:

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
NEW PICTURES ADDED

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Modified by Austin at 11:06 PM 4/5/2004
New pictures added to the bottom of my post
1. cast aluminium
2. adjustable camber
3. adjustable caster
4. retail of $180 each
Here are the picture:

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Here's how they add in the caster, the bolt on the ball joint can be offset, square washer aligns it in the A-arm, and the square washer can be turned to provide a different mounting offset...not the best description, but I hope that the picture is a little easier to understand:

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
NEW PICTURES ADDED

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg

Full size, right click and copy into a new browser window:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
Modified by Austin at 11:06 PM 4/5/2004
I went back and took a few more pictures of the ball joint, and how it all works...so once I download, then upload the pics I'll post them up.
Austin
Austin
I recently bought the older style steel version. It seems that the adjustments are more "beefy" and camber adjustable with a screw instead of sliding.
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Looks good. But I too wonder if the ball joint will stay in place under heavy loading. It would be nicer to have camber adjustment via a rod end, with slots to move it side to side and adjust camber.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Angry Joe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope the outer ball joint doesn't start migrating
Not a fan of adjustable suspension points that don't have positive stops...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4. retail of $180 each</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not a fan of adjustable suspension points that don't have positive stops...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4. retail of $180 each</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those SPC parts look great. When are they available?
Here's the arm for those who are concerned that the 1-nut theory isn't a good one...
Here's the arm for those who are concerned that the 1-nut theory isn't a good one...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for those who are concerned that the 1-nut theory isn't a good one...</TD></TR></TABLE>
any theory involving one nut, has to be a bad one...
any theory involving one nut, has to be a bad one...
lol, too true
My experience with the standalone SPC camber adjustable upper ball joints is that alignment shop guys are too weak to tighten them enough. I can normally get almost a full turn in after one of them finish adjusting mine. This equates to realtime variable camber
My experience with the standalone SPC camber adjustable upper ball joints is that alignment shop guys are too weak to tighten them enough. I can normally get almost a full turn in after one of them finish adjusting mine. This equates to realtime variable camber
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Angry Joe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not a fan of adjustable suspension points that don't have positive stops...</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly.
not a fan of aluminum suspension mounts either.
exactly.
not a fan of aluminum suspension mounts either.
There's nothing wrong w/ aluminum suspension components. They're used from the factory on much heavier cars than ours. However, this design looks like it'll slip even easier than the Skunks.
Warren
Warren
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
any theory involving one nut, has to be a bad one... </TD></TR></TABLE>
seeing as both suspension connection points are fixed, the rod end adjustments with one nut arent gonna back out or move anywhere. so one nut will serfice
-spenc
any theory involving one nut, has to be a bad one... </TD></TR></TABLE>
seeing as both suspension connection points are fixed, the rod end adjustments with one nut arent gonna back out or move anywhere. so one nut will serfice
-spenc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's nothing wrong w/ aluminum suspension components. They're used from the factory on much heavier cars than ours. </TD></TR></TABLE>
street cars , not race cars.
use aluminum for anything under constant tension/compression loads in a race application and see how long it takes to fail.
thin wall moly is a much better choice that usually equates to stronger and less weight.
street cars , not race cars.
use aluminum for anything under constant tension/compression loads in a race application and see how long it takes to fail.
thin wall moly is a much better choice that usually equates to stronger and less weight.
whats the website for SPC?the a-sports products are good except they are expensive..vision makes an adjustable upper a-arm but i just found that out so i dont know how good they are.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
street cars , not race cars.
use aluminum for anything under constant tension/compression loads in a race application and see how long it takes to fail.
thin wall moly is a much better choice that usually equates to stronger and less weight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess you should tell that to PD Cunningham who won a whole lot of races in his NSX using aluminum components for the suspension arms.
street cars , not race cars.
use aluminum for anything under constant tension/compression loads in a race application and see how long it takes to fail.
thin wall moly is a much better choice that usually equates to stronger and less weight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess you should tell that to PD Cunningham who won a whole lot of races in his NSX using aluminum components for the suspension arms.
I think the original ones are better. I have those on my car. On these, it looks like the balljoint is gonna start sliding around on that metal plate.
MMmmMM SPHERICAL BEARINGS...
i dunno, i wish i could swithc bushing meterial in my ingalls to that of a solid.
by ingalls worked fine since day one, just lubed itup once nad doesnt crunch/squeek anymore.
i dunno, i wish i could swithc bushing meterial in my ingalls to that of a solid.
by ingalls worked fine since day one, just lubed itup once nad doesnt crunch/squeek anymore.
I dont think they will work on a lowered EF. With the way it looks, the A-arm is arched to compinsate for the ball joints length. My car is already so low (to acieve more neg camber) that the top of the a-arm will hit the top of the fender well under full compression. I maybe wrong, but if it will work I will get them!!!
Aplication guide would be cool...
Aplication guide would be cool...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phantom_sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MMmmMM SPHERICAL BEARINGS...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think the a-arms have spherical bearings in the pic, correct me if I'm wrong but just looks like pressed in bushings to me.
I don't think the a-arms have spherical bearings in the pic, correct me if I'm wrong but just looks like pressed in bushings to me.


