I'm a step closer to getting the header installed.

I got the Kteller8 custom made Cat with a 3" inch Inlet and a 2.5" inch Outlet today to connect the Header-Tech header (3" inch Collector) to my Tanabe Exhaust.


Kteller8 did a great job. Did exactly what I wanted him to do. ( http://www.kteller.com )

Here's some eye candy:








The length of the header-tech header and cat is obviously longer than what a stock GS-R header and cat would yield. So I'll most likely need to take it to a muffler shop and cut a small portion of my exhaust to make it fit... which is a good thing since the Bottle neck of the Tanabe exhaust will be cut off.

I have a question tho.

I checked the stock cat and it had Spring Nuts connected to the header. Can I use that instead? Am I suppose to? Or will the regular bolts work perfectly fine? I heard someone say it can make the header crack if I don't use the spring nuts to connect the Header and the Cat. Is this true?

Another things...

My USDM DC header has the bracket that holds the header in place. The header-tech header does not, like most custom made headers. Will this affect anything, or will it be sturdy enough?

 

You don't NEED the spring bolts.... But some flex pipe would be good... A lot of people run flex pipe as their custom cat's... As far as the headers cracking? No... The hangers on the exhaust might though...And that bracket that goes on the stock header isn't necissary - esspecially since your not using spring bolts...

BTW - you are my role model... lol

 

You can only use spring bolts on a connection that has the donut-type gasket. (2 holes, 2 spring bolts required). The connections in that pic show 3 hole flanges on both ends of the cat, with a thin flat gasket used in both places. So no you can't use spring bolts on that.

 

i would definitely stick some spring bolts on there. just something to absorb the motion and energy beside your header. i would hate to see the welds crack or worse. the energy has to go somewhere. it would probably never happen but better safe than sorry.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rusty Shackleford &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the energy has to go somewhere. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hence why hangers hang on rubber... The exhaust sways...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can only use spring bolts on a connection that has the donut-type gasket. (2 holes, 2 spring bolts required). The connections in that pic show 3 hole flanges on both ends of the cat, with a thin flat gasket used in both places. So no you can't use spring bolts on that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, and when I ordered my exhaust from him he told me he didnt have anyof those 3bolt flanges, and I didnt order a cat from him... I had to get a 2 bolt from the exhaust shop witha flare and use some bolts w/o those springs and I welded the exhaust up w/o a cat... sucks, I wanted to connect it to a stock cat for right now, because I had no need for a upgraded cat on my DD.

that header looks sick though..

 

i got my exhaust from kteller8 as well, nice decision

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rusty Shackleford &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would definitely stick some spring bolts on there. just something to absorb the motion and energy beside your header. i would hate to see the welds crack or worse. the energy has to go somewhere. it would probably never happen but better safe than sorry. </TD></TR></TABLE>

He can't use spring bolts on those flanges, for one thing if he did, it would leak whenever the joint flexed. You can only use spring bolts on flanges that use donut gaskets so that the joint can flex but the seal is maintained.

 

I've had this problem. 2 solutions, either eliminate the cat & replace it with a flex pipe or eliminate the cat & replace it with a flex pipe. You cannot use spring bolts on that triangle flange & I dont think you would want to cut a foot off your tanabe to put a flex pipe after the cat. You definetly need some kinda spring action there though. Also without that bracket that holds the header all that pressure is pulling the studs on the head with every shift.

 

****... So let me get this straight.

I can't use spring nuts since it is a 3 bolt flange design.
If I can't use spring nuts, I'll need a Flex Pipe.


Well I can't eliminate the cat and replace it with a flex pipe since I live in California. I NEED the cat. So I'll have to run a Cat AND flex pipe.

With that said... where should the flex pipe go? Before or After the cat?

 

after the cat is fine

the muffler place should have flex pipe at the shop

dont ask me how much flex pipe, i could only guess.

maybe 4-7" ??

im guessing if you dont have flex pipe it could just put more stress on the welds of the exhaust and header

 

It's no going to matter that much but I say the engine is what's moving so put the flex pipe closer to it... so before the cat. The shortest 3" diameter flex pipe should be fine.

Looks like a SWEET setup!!

 

I'm running no springs on my exhaust systemm-- and no problems yet. I also have energy suspension motor mounts tho, so flexing is minmal.

 

same poly mounts and no springs or flexpiping and no problems yet. i did have a flex pipe before my car was hit and it ripped from a rear hit the body shop didnt put one back in and said if there was any problems they would pay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [ iLL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> iNt3GrA]same poly mounts and no springs or flexpiping and no problems yet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How long have you been running without a flexpipe?

 

i say u get the flex pipes.. better to be safe than sorry.

 

Sounds sweet. Good luck with the project.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2*Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i say u get the flex pipes.. better to be safe than sorry. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If I get the flexpipe, I'll need to chop off my exhaust a good amount.

 

Without a flex pipe you might be alright if you had alteast a bracket to hold that header stirdy. Whatever you do (wether it be flex pipe or bracket or both) you need to do something so that your entire exhaust system isn't torquing the studs on the head when you shift, those studs where not meant to handle that much pressure & they will come loose. What I suggest is that you have the shop cut the flange off the cat & header & weld a 2 bolt in it's place. If they dont have the flange then go somewhere else they are not hard to find. Any exhaust shop can do this.

 

That is a nice looking header by the way

 

um i used spring bolts from a dodge ram pickup when i installed my cat.... i dont know if that helps you though....

 

The 3" collector makes it so bulky; secksy!

Fro,
-Mike... who is wondering if he will have the same problem when he decides which header to get.

 

Header is beautiful and 3" collector wow but have you considered going with a custom exhuast. I mean such a big flowing header mated to a Tanabe exhuast?

Kteller i think either has or is about to release thier custom 2.5 systems since hardly noone if anyobody makes them. If it were me I would upgrade the exhuast to get 100% from the header. Maybe im missing something so enlighten me all motor guys

I just compared it to me running a 3" downpipe only to be mated to a 2.25 exhuast. I know with boost backpressure is your enemy, but overall a bigger exhuast would only help. Btw Kteller sells Flex pipes as well.

What do you guys think?

 

I'd say stay with 2.5" exhaust piping. 3" piping would be better for a 250+ whp N/A application or something like that. Boost is um... different, probably b/c of the spooling... ah wtf am I saying, I don't no ish about turbo.

 

almost 6 months