Is there any problems swapping the rear sway bar onto a 89 SI hatch?

 

I am not sure of any problems, but a friend of mine (that happens to be a mechanic) slapped a DA rear sway bar into his 90 Civic si with no problems.

 

i was hoping to hear that! It looked pretty similar so i will be doing it this weekend ar work!

 

the funny thing is, i believe that the civic/crx si rear sway bar is 1mm larger than the da rear sway bar.

 

really? Well from looking the DA looked bigger. I will make sure before i do it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the funny thing is, i believe that the civic/crx si rear sway bar is 1mm larger than the da rear sway bar. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wheres the pix of yours man, i need to know what to weld so i can slap mine on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by temp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wheres the pix of yours man, i need to know what to weld so i can slap mine on </TD></TR></TABLE>

damn, my car was on jackstands sunday when i put on the DA knuckles, too. i forgot! i'll try and get them this weekend sometime...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

damn, my car was on jackstands sunday when i put on the DA knuckles, too. i forgot! i'll try and get them this weekend sometime... </TD></TR></TABLE>


ahhhhhhh :-P get on AIM stop being AFK

 

yep.. mine is off si hatch.. 15 mm.. helped out but looking for more

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chwy_thoj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep.. mine is off si hatch.. 15 mm.. helped out but looking for
more</TD></TR></TABLE>

aftermarket is the only way to go. the da rear sway bar (dc ls-gsr as well) are only 14mm.

 

Baller on a budget! Will have to do for now!

 

i meant in terms of larger rear sways. stock integras aren't larger than the stock civic/crx si so swapping them out would be pointless. the only way to get a stiffer rear would be an aftermarket sway bar...sorry for the confusion.

 

i got a free si one for anyone interested.. of a 90 si hatchback

andrew

 

just want to add that the DA sedans have larger 15.9mm nominal diameter, which is a bit more than stock Si. not sure if its worth it to anyone, but im sure they can be had for pretty cheap in the yard. i saw one last week, didnt bother to pull it, since im getting a mugen 22mm now, which is OE fit as well.

can someone confirm again that the DA REAR sway bar fits the civic and crx Si (with proper rear LCA mounting)?

i might be selling my jackson racing (like ST) rear bar if all goes well.

 

kinda glad i stumbled onto this.

i have a DX and my DX CRX doesn't have a rear sway only a frontal. when i auto cross my back doesnt slide a bit like i want it to. so correcting this temporarly would be to use my barely driven DD 92 LS rear sway til i can get a ST upgrade???

before i go out in the cold and freeze my *** cause i have a CRX and crotch rocket taking up garage space to disassemble my DA rear bar and link etc from my teg. will all the hardware from the DA9 fit on my ED8 without any mods??? and if any modification needs to be done what do i need to do??

 

bump

 

youre going to need a the proper rear lower control arm that has the rear sway bar mounting holes. your integra will have it, but im told its longer than the CRX length, so youll end up with a lot of negative camber. otherwise, youll need to find some Si rear control arms that have the right mounting holes.

 

Besides the LCA's not having the mounting holes you will probably have more problems.
Most Civics/CRXs that didn't come with a rear sway from the factory don't have threads in the frame rails to mounts the brackets.
Some have the holes, but no threads.
Some don't even have holes at all.

So, you basically have to drill a large hole (about 1") through your trunk/hatch floorboard to gain access to the inside of the framerail to add washers and nuts for attaching the brackets.

Good luck.
I did it on my sedan and so far (3 months) it works great!
I used a few large rubber grommets to fill the holes (which are under carpet and don't show anyway).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Besides the LCA's not having the mounting holes you will probably have more problems.
Most Civics/CRXs that didn't come with a rear sway from the factory don't have threads in the frame rails to mounts the brackets.
Some have the holes, but no threads.
Some don't even have holes at all.

So, you basically have to drill a large hole (about 1") through your trunk/hatch floorboard to gain access to the inside of the framerail to add washers and nuts for attaching the brackets.

Good luck.
I did it on my sedan and so far (3 months) it works great!
I used a few large rubber grommets to fill the holes (which are under carpet and don't show anyway).</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey man i have a set of LCAs on the 4 door right now but i cant get the sway bar to fit. its from a DA and the freaking wholes on the 4 door need to be tapped. I have a DX so maybe thats why....i dont know.

what did you do to get it mounted on there? do you have pics of how the sway bar was mounted?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by julio_bOostamante &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey man i have a set of LCAs on the 4 door right now but i cant get the sway bar to fit. its from a DA and the freaking wholes on the 4 door need to be tapped. I have a DX so maybe thats why....i dont know.

what did you do to get it mounted on there? do you have pics of how the sway bar was mounted?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a 90 dx hatch,I'm in the process of putting a DA rear sway bar on also.I'm making a plate to sandwich between the tow/tie-down hooks and the subframe,I'm gonna weld the sway bar mounting brackets to the plate,that way nothing will be welded to car,or holes drilled thru subframe.I've got the plates cut out,gonna drill holes in em sat or sun,it'll be mon or tues before I weld the plates and brackets together.If your interested I'll take pics of my brackets if you want to duplicate.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DpSyChO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm making a plate to sandwich between the tow/tie-down hooks and the subframe,</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think they might bend on you... or if the metal is think enough your tow-hook bolts might snap on you.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by julio_bOostamante &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hey man i have a set of LCAs on the 4 door right now but i cant get the sway bar to fit. its from a DA and the freaking wholes on the 4 door need to be tapped.

what did you do to get it mounted on there? do you have pics of how the sway bar was mounted?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No pics... sorry.

You can't tap those holes. There isn't enough thickness to the metal. If you try to tap it you might get 1 or 2 threads and that's it. For ANY screw you want at LEAST 3~4 full threads of engagement (those lead-in threads at the top of the bolt don't really count). Anything less than that is risky.

-What you need to do is get a hole cutting drill bit. I think the one I used cost about $13 at Sears. Before you go cutting holes, first get under the car with the drill and a bit that fits through the bracket mounting holes that you have in the frame rails. Place the drill bit all the way through those 4 holes and make a hole through the floor of your trunk.
-Next, go in the trunk with the hole cutter bit and drill over all 4 of those holes.
-Get some large washers that fit through those holes. Also get bolts, nuts, and some split lock washers.
-Have somebody under the car hold the bracket in place and push the bolt up through it.
-Slip on the large washer, then the split washer, and then the nut. (If you can get a teflon locking washer it would be even better.)
-Tighten that down and repeat the process on the other 3.
-Buy some rubber grommets to fill those holes.
-DONE!!!

 

hey great advice, would that apply to a 88 hatch as well? dont know if mine has holes for the mounts or not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DpSyChO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm making a plate to sandwich between the tow/tie-down hooks and the subframe</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Suspension Techniques rear swaybar kit does that exactly. You remove the three bolts that hold the tow hooks on, then bolt them back on with the SUPER beefy brackets in between them and the chassis. They supply longer bolts to do this with. The brackets are like 1/4" thick steel with extra arms supporting the bend.