Just curious, I've heard Tony and Mike say that they don't use any soldered connections on their race car? I'd like to hear reasoning behind that, because I hate butt connectors.
thanks,
Jared

 

Soldering creates a solid joint in the wire and if not supported very carefully it will break the wire at the end of the solder. Good non insulated butt connectors, the right crimpers, and good shrink is the way to go.

edit: the wire will break with vibration (which a race car has plenty of!)

 

I prefer solder over butt connectors, I've seen to many butt connectors fail under everyday car use let alone trust it on a race car(this is just my opinion) With the right soldering skill and heat shrink, solder joints will not fail. My experience is coming from the background I have in Mil spec solder. Solder joints only brake when there is a cold solder joint meaning that one of the wires was not heated enough for the solder to adhere to the wire, causing the joint to be weak from the get go. If done correctly everything will work just fine. Ive also noticed Resistance and Voltage change's when using butt connectors.....specifically on a tps sensor

Remember this is just my opinion and im not saying that butt connectors are a factual bad decision for use, just stating my experience with them.

 

Just use millspec or weatherpack connectors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIXTYdashONE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just use millspec or weatherpack connectors</TD></TR></TABLE>

what is the difference with these connectors with your run of the mill, connectors you find at the auto parts store?

 

As far as the soldering, i'm going by what i've been tought. Motec makes by far some of the best harnesses i've ever seen and they will NOT solder anything. The proper crimps and crimpers are a much better connection. This does NOT include the butt connectors you buy at auto zone and the crimpers you buy at the grocery store. On the connectors, weatherpack connectors are pretty cheesy compared to what's available. DTM connectors (mil spec) are not very expensive, but make a much nicer connection. Only bad thing about the DTM's is that you need a special crimper that is about $350. Once you've worked with both, you'd never go back to a weatherpack!

Now, for most people, I would recommend solder. If you don't have the right equipment then soldering is going to be your best bet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatch4urSnatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what is the difference with these connectors with your run of the mill, connectors you find at the auto parts store?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a ton of difference. Cheap connector are are made from a vinyl based plastice and low content nickel. The plastic is hard and very brittle and will break under a good set of crimpers as will the the insert. Good connectors are are made from a nylon basd plastic and higher nickel content inserts. The nylon is much less likely to break, has a higher heat resistance, and on most is see-thru which allows you to make sure your wire is fully inside the insert. As Tony1 said maybe use the non shielded crimps with heat shrink, this looks much better. But if time is a concern only use good butt connectors.

 

I prefer heat shrink butt connectors.

 

solder when you are at the shop.
crimp when you are at the track.

my $.02

 

thank you for explanation.

does anyone have pictures of the DTM connectors and crimper Tony is referring to?

 

SOlder Solder Solder. I have seen where the impedance across a but connector caused issues with sensors.

 

solder joints can also cause small impedance changes, in the aviation industry they don't allow solder joints, only crimp connections.

 

This is all the stuff we use...
http://www.motec.com/support/wiring.htm

 

The gray plug at the bottom is a DTM connector and those blue crimpers are the ones you need for them. Same crimpers for the mil spec firewall bulkheads.

 

the tool for the DT plugs is around 180... does a nice job i might add

 

Is there a place to buy online Tony?
Our local suppliers suxor.

 

i run those dtm connectors on my car and they rock. when you crimp with a milspec crimper you'll never doubt your connections integrity.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1fstcorrado &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the tool for the DT plugs is around 180... does a nice job i might add</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where did you find them for $180?

 

Anyone use Posilock connectors?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Where did you find them for $180?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Let me know too!!!

 

i use posilock connectots for my temp connections. they do a decent job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The gray plug at the bottom is a DTM connector and those blue crimpers are the ones you need for them. Same crimpers for the mil spec firewall bulkheads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

which grey plug are you referring to Tony?


EDIT: wrong pic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Where did you find them for $180?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I got it from ladd direct.....it does all the solid pins

 

From what it looks like Raychem is exactly like normal heatshrink but insulated , maybe I'm wrong but what is the difference? And does anyone have anypics were DTM (milspec) connectors were used so I can see the difference . . . it's hard to make out in the picture.


SEFIxCivic you did a sick wiring job with your MOTEC if I'm not mistaken . . . have any more pics still?

 

thanks for the compliment. theres a dtm connector in the picture.