My NA project - some info and pics :)
Hi!
B16A2 with the following:
PR3-3 head with brand new internals. And I mean absolutely EVERYTHING! Cams, LMA's, valvepsprings, retainers, valveguildes and a lot more.. Even the cotters
All best pics of PCT and P73.
Head was ported and polished, and got a 3 angel valvejob.
OEM Godness

Machined PR3 rods for PCT piston fitment





PR3 got owned by PCT


Old ****


New ****

B16A2 with the following:
PR3-3 head with brand new internals. And I mean absolutely EVERYTHING! Cams, LMA's, valvepsprings, retainers, valveguildes and a lot more.. Even the cotters
All best pics of PCT and P73.Head was ported and polished, and got a 3 angel valvejob.
OEM Godness

Machined PR3 rods for PCT piston fitment





PR3 got owned by PCT


Old ****


New ****

160WHP. We'll see when I install the new fuelsetup, and EMS. I need to wo2 it before I will see the real gains.
Skunk2 IM
RC440's (overkill, but price was the same)
AEM fuel bling bling rails and fpr
Walbro 255lph
AEM EMS
AEM C2DI
AEM Wideband O2
Mad tite Autometer gauges to go.
Skunk2 IM
RC440's (overkill, but price was the same)
AEM fuel bling bling rails and fpr
Walbro 255lph
AEM EMS
AEM C2DI
AEM Wideband O2
Mad tite Autometer gauges to go.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deepgreengsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That ported head could use a lot more work. The valve guides arent even cut down. What are the flow #'s on that. before and after.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No need to cut the valve guides down unless it is a race motor. For a street motor its good to not touch them.
No need to cut the valve guides down unless it is a race motor. For a street motor its good to not touch them.
b16's dont need but a mild port on a stock bottom end with high compression, unless you want to be reving it to insane rpm
Edit:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">160whp sounds about right, what made you go with the b16a2 cams and not ITR/CTR cams?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cams are Civic Type R - brand new
---
Please help
I have spent the last week running the new system in. I've been driving easily, rarely over 3000 rpm for the new pistonrings to set in.. I noticed right away that idle was a little low. It used to be around the 700 -+50 mark, but its down to 500/600rpm now. Its not really a problem, but I just feel that it would be better to have it where it should be - around 750 rpm due to the increase in compression.
So today I took my screwdriver and took the car for a spin so that the engine would heat up. Then I parked it, popped the hood, and waited for the fan to come on. It was idling low, as usual. I started with the idle adjustment on the throttle body, with the adjusting screw on the top of the TB. I rotated the screw about 90 degrees counter clockwise, and nothing happened. I then took it back again, and went 90 degrees clockwise - but nothing happened. I took it back to the start position, revved the engine to like 1000/1500 by touching the TB cable, and tried turning the idlescrew 180 degrees counter-clockwise. Now this is where its gets funky - smoke started coming from the side of the throttlebody, close to the TPS sensor. I imediatly turned off the engine.
What could cause this? I know I didnt shortcurcuit anything. Any ideas?
Btw: Car has run 2k miles now, four days ago I tried the VTEC, and its gone. I mean, it hits in, cos I can hear the change in sound, but I dont feel it. No increase in performance, rather actually a drop after VTEC enganges. Stock P30 ECU w. CTR cams.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">160whp sounds about right, what made you go with the b16a2 cams and not ITR/CTR cams?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cams are Civic Type R - brand new

---
Please help

I have spent the last week running the new system in. I've been driving easily, rarely over 3000 rpm for the new pistonrings to set in.. I noticed right away that idle was a little low. It used to be around the 700 -+50 mark, but its down to 500/600rpm now. Its not really a problem, but I just feel that it would be better to have it where it should be - around 750 rpm due to the increase in compression.
So today I took my screwdriver and took the car for a spin so that the engine would heat up. Then I parked it, popped the hood, and waited for the fan to come on. It was idling low, as usual. I started with the idle adjustment on the throttle body, with the adjusting screw on the top of the TB. I rotated the screw about 90 degrees counter clockwise, and nothing happened. I then took it back again, and went 90 degrees clockwise - but nothing happened. I took it back to the start position, revved the engine to like 1000/1500 by touching the TB cable, and tried turning the idlescrew 180 degrees counter-clockwise. Now this is where its gets funky - smoke started coming from the side of the throttlebody, close to the TPS sensor. I imediatly turned off the engine.
What could cause this? I know I didnt shortcurcuit anything. Any ideas?
Btw: Car has run 2k miles now, four days ago I tried the VTEC, and its gone. I mean, it hits in, cos I can hear the change in sound, but I dont feel it. No increase in performance, rather actually a drop after VTEC enganges. Stock P30 ECU w. CTR cams.
I think your plugs look fine. The first couple threads are black as hell, meaning you have the right heat range plug for the application; and the top is only slightly light colored, it could be running a tad lean...





