Is it worth putting together a stock b16 head and stock b18b bottem end together for lsvtec?

 

I dont recommend it. Very unreliable engine, if not built the right way, this setup needs much attention when doing.

 

Has anybody done this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phatch99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anybody done this? </TD></TR></TABLE>
as it was already said, its very unreliable.

yes its been done countless times. most times it ends with something breaking.

a ls/b20 vtec setup requires some attention to detail that most people dont take the time to do properly.

 

i agree with everyone else, but if you spen a little money on some rods and what not you have some good potental to make some power with reliablity if put together right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Everyone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This whole thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks like another game of Honda-tech follow the leader. If you do the proper machining and supply the head with oil the bottom end will rev to it's stock limit just as long as any other LS. Like any other engine, when you are using used parts there is going to be room for improvment, if you would like to rev higher you'll find that you'll need better rod bolts. The rod bolts have to be pressed in, ARP sells great ones.

What is wrong with the LS rods, they can support 400hp?

 

yea but what ever you do put b16 pistons in this because with low compression ls pistons your going to be just as slow. if you put b16 pistons youll put down 11:5 1 compression.... about reliability dont even worry. youll be fine

 

I have been running my Stock LS/VTEC (Stock block, B16 head w/GSR cams ITR intake manifold) for well over a year. I have a chipped P28 with a skunk2 prog. I have taken it to 8000 rpm's with no problems, daily driven and autocrossed. This was a motor that was put together when my D15z took a dump. I dont understand when people say that its not worth it and thats its unreliable. I have taken it too the limit with no problem. I change the oil regularly.

 

runnin the almost exact same setup as u whiteeg6
had mine for a little less than you thou...3 months
but overall
"i'm lovin it!"

 

I'm also running that combo. Pros and Cons. Some discussion on the topic also at https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=810679

Thawley

 

if you have the time, money, and most important, knowledge...then build away

if your gonna slap a VTEC head on a non-VTEC block and rev it to 9k+...dont bother

 

I've heard thousands of times that if you use stock rods you'll have damn good odds at throwing them out because of the R/S ratio. Has anyone had this problem? Because when ever i hear about ls/vtec, someone is always bashing it because of the R/S ratio.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard thousands of times that if you use stock rods you'll have damn good odds at throwing them out because of the R/S ratio. Has anyone had this problem? Because when ever i hear about ls/vtec, someone is always bashing it because of the R/S ratio. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Anyone who legitimately thinks that such a small difference in R/S ratio between the LS and the GSR will actually make a tangible difference to anyone short of a straight drag engine or anyone running 9krpm is an avid reader of "I like to sound smart" magazine.

The only thing I'd worry about as far as revs in an LS go (to meet GSR stock revs reliably) is rod bolts. On the other hand, there's no way a B20 will rev to GSR specs from a rotational mass, internal balance and squareness aspect alone.

As far as "LSVtecs are unreliable!!". This is total B.S. Go look at any LSV that died prematurely and I guarantee you that the owner did not plug the oil hole in the head for Vtec. This is what causes the infamous B20/B18A-B vtec oil leaks and blown head gaskets. The oil will continually flow onto the head gasket (because there is no oiling passage there in the non-vtec blocks). The tricky part of this procedure is that if you don't have the dowel pin instaled at the EXACT same height (a rubber mallet helps to ensure that) it will cause the head not to seat properly in this corner if it's too far out from the oil passage. Needless to say, this will cause combustion pressure to build in that corner and eventually lift the head from the gasket, so double check and tripplecheck the level of the plug to the head's seat.

After plugging this hole with a dowel pin, have one of the oiling passages in the head tapped and threaded for your oil supply which you'll use from a bypass at your oil filter which would replicate the same way a stock vtec head gets oil pressure therefore making it completely as reliable as stock. Some people take the short-cut and don't tap the head, but instead feed oil in through the PCV valve. This is a bad idea because excess oil pressure will have no place to vent unless you install a catch can which would only slow the clock on an already ticking half-assed time bomb. Spend the bucks and tap the head.

The final issue is to get a GSR or ITR oil pump to make sure you have adequate oil pressure for vtec in the first place. The fact of the matter is that the B20 oil pump is the exact same part number as the GSR pump, so don't feed into the GSR pump for extra $$ and riceability.

Finally, secure the entire combo with ARP bolts and it's a done deal. Aside from the Vtec head of choice, you'll spend another ~200 bucks for all the hardware, and there's some aftermarket companies that sell all the pieces needed for the procedure (braided lines, oilfilter bypass, dowel pin, and some sell the oilpump too).

I aided a friend in his B20Vtec conversion into an EH and that rust box has been on the road for about 3 years and hasn't had a single problem short of traction. That **** (Will you asswipe!!) dosen't even change the oil for 5kmiles because he's a lazy turd (Will I hope you read this).

 

thank you, thats alot of good info.
does anyone else (who has actually built one) agree or disagree with this..

not busting your ***** , just want more then one opinion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phatch99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anybody done this? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes its worth it, but use arp head and rod bolts

i did a lsvtec conversion and i loved it

its a big difference between lsvtec and a ls

 

An article on http://www.hondaswap.com says you should replce the pistons for B16 pistons be the VTEC valves wont clear the B18 vavle reliefs.

Is this true?

I would think it would only be a problem if you were running high rpm and were stretching the rod bolts too much.

 

llewsirc,

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not busting your ***** , just want more then one opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's absolutely nothing wrong with that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An article on http://www.hondaswap.com says you should replce the pistons for B16 pistons be the VTEC valves wont clear the B18 vavle reliefs.
Is this true?

I would think it would only be a problem if you were running high rpm and were stretching the rod bolts too much.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

This IS true..on a B20 block. On B18 blocks the clearance will be adequate unless your timing is tremendously off or if you try revving it to 9k. Either case would cause a collision in anything but a low compression engine. You're also cutting it close if you milled the head or shaved the block on a b18.