Well I too fell into the crazy idle scenario only our honda's seem to posess. LOL.

My idle started fluacting about 2 months ago, only after it was warmed up. Well I was needing a tune-up anyways so I did that and it went away immediatly, but eventually started to come back, I cleaned the IAC and it seemed to help for about two days, then I did a fuel injector flush at work one day and it just went crazy after that. I never really looked at it closely except for cleaning the IAC twice and spraying all vacuum lines for leaks, which I had NONE.

I was actually starting to get kinda stumped myself, since I wasnt throwing a code I knew it had somthing to do mechanically, Well my rotor went out about a week ago and I had to replace it I thought this might be why but I doubt it and sure as **** it wasnt it. As of today it was idling so bad it would get up 3200 and just hang there then drop and just go nuts around 1000-2200.

It got me so aggrivated that tonight I jsut went crazy and checked everything......coolant level, gaskets, vacuum lines....everything until finally I was like well I suppose Ill just reset the Idle and see where that takes me.

BINGO.....after further inspection the idle screw had pretty much worked itself all the way out and wasnt really doing much the more I tightned it the better my idle got.

I did however end up doing everything the right way, Starting the car letting it warm up, unplug the IACV, I turned the screw all the way in and then hooked up the IAC my idle was around 500, so I reset the ecu went out and drove it and it was better but still a little shakey.

Brought it back home for a quick second, did same procedure as before but turned the screw counterclockwise(thats lefty loosey) just a smidge reinstalled as removal and reset the computer again.

Went out driving and I have a perfect idle at all speeds(doing about 50-60 disengage the clutch and it drops to about 800 and stays put) and at idle, now remember you need to compensate for electrical load, the first time I set the idle it was with my lights off well when I went for the drive it dropped a few hundred rpm do to accesory load....thats why I had to bump it up again, with the lights off it idles the same now around 750 800 which is the same with the lights on.

Im pumped its finally gone, just going to have to keep an eye on it......thought id shoot that out there to some guys who haave this same problem and havent checked that yet.

 

bump cuz other people are having this problem.

 

good post! I'll have to give this a shot. THANKS!

 

yea i was havign the same problem so i changed the iac valve and i was still having it. so stupid me found out my idle set screw was coming loose. so now everyday it gets so loose it works its way out everyday and pisses me off. so im gonna get some silicone and hope that works.

 

I took out my idle screw all togeathor and I have a good idle at 800rpm. It took me months to figure out why I was throwing a code 14... Then I had to re adjust the FITV..... With a little fine tunning, it seems to be finally where I want it. It took quite a long time, and I still might not be there. I think that everyones setup is different and you just have to keep toying with it untill you get your idle issue to leave.... Bump cause I got my car to idle good as well!!!

Blaze

 

im having this erratic idle mostly before the car is warmed up. SOmetimes after it is too just not as bad. I have messed with the screw and no luck.

I just converted my crx to obd1 and this is the only thing wrong with it...erratic idle.

Up down up down. People at stop lights prolly think im revving at them.

Jumps from 1500 to 2200 over and over. After it warms up its not bad. Has a small one at 1000-1200.

What else could cause this? anyone know?

 

Is 750-800 the correct Idle I have mine right under 1krpm and I get this bad idle once in a while. I have had it at about 800 but the car bibrates a little and at around 1k it feel just right nice idle but the only problem is the weard idle once in a while.

 

I am having a idle prob too. Not as severe as over 1400rpm, but it is annoying and was wondering how to fix it if any of u knew. And where the idle control thing is?

 

me too. i was thionking about plugging the iacv holes on the back of the mani but keeping the iacv plgged in so i get no code, then just using the idle screw.

 

can anyone tell me if i can solve my problem this way even though i have hondata? isn't my idle set by the programming?

 

My car will stall right out if I unplug the IACV.

 

Now take some paint to that idle scrwe so it don't back out again.

 

dang, so many reasons why the idle could be bad. Here's one to think about...I have a CX, and recently threw in a 99 B20B. Prior to the swap, I had the idle case in which after engine temp. was warm, the idle dropped to like 500rpm, and fluctuated between 200-900 at times, depending on the day. The common brake pumping trick made the idle rise, and then fall back down quickly (vacuum built up). So check it. Now I got the B20 in, and it still has the jacked up idle, PLUS now it has the low idle at startup. I've researched and read, and found out that this is obviously the FITV causing this at startup, but now I still need to find out the problem with my low idle. I want to say its something other than the B20, but then again the LS intake manifold used on the B20 is from a 94 LS, and the IACV might've just been the problem...or even the injectors. I've already replaced the fuel filter, no fix there, next will be the fuel pump simply cause the CX had about 150,000 miles plus on it alone, and I am sure the fuel system has had some wear and tear put on it. I assumed that a fuel pump just either worked or didn't, not like any intermittent problems with it. Oh and I also checked the check valve on the vacuum line coming off the brake booster, not clogged (someone said try that).

I guess I have the following to check:
FITV (I know thats one problem solved)
IACV (might be a source of trouble)
fuel system (very old and might be a culprit)
electrical load (I do have an amp for my stereo)
vacuum lines (not a bad idea to just change them all anyways)

 

Use Loctite 242 to keep your idle screw in place.
You'll have no more worries.

 

how about checking to make sure your throttle-cablle is correctly taut?

i had a problem, and still do have problems with an erratic idle but was somewhat solved with a procedure much explained as the above's original post.

the erratic idle still comes back, and my idle screw is all the way in with an idle about 1.2k, throwing a code 7. i don't have the cash to figure out what part i'll need incase it may be my TB or just the TPS giving it too much juice--will be bringing it into the shop.

bad idles can be the throttle plate not closing all the way either.

 

how much does the idle screw turn?

i have exact same problem now.. i am gonna try this soon..

i tried unplugging the iacv and my car throws code and car shuts off as i remove the connector from iacv..

grrr

 

anyone have a picture of the idle screw for us noobs?

 

so.. what's what..

turning clock wise would lower the idle or higher?

 

Brent........Make sure your coolant system is purged correctly and that coolant levels are correct.

 

as some have sed..

make sure the throttle cable isnt pulling the TB open even the tiniest bit or it will rev up and down when it gets hot!

this was mainly my problem, take your intake pipe off and check to make sure the throttle body isnt cracking open a bit becuase of throttle cable pressure.

 

Man that was an easy fix.. I just started having this idle problem with my b16b. It took all of five minutes to fix after hours of checking everything else. It was just a turn of the idle screw..... Thanks

 

what year and model? .....thanks...... good luck

 

It is a 98 B16b in a 97 hatch. It still running hard.....