which is the best bang for the buck.. Buddy Club Racing Spec III B-Series Camshafts or Skunk2 B-Series VTEC Camshafts Stage 3 . i need some help picking out...

 

how about tuning your stock cams??? there is some gains you can get with that...

also. what header are you running? stock header isn't going to cut it with cams..

 

How much compression are you running? If your engine is stock, then neither of those two choices will be ideal.

 

You need to give more info about your car before anyone can give you any suggestions.

 

have you tuned your i/h/e yet???

Reason i ask is because i gained more hp/tq tuning my i/h/e than i did with cams when i had stock compression.

If you havnt, you might want to look into a SMSP header..i gained 23whp with only the SMSP header and 2.5" exhaust. Untuned, on a completely stock 98 ITR motor.

Arno

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98itR484 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you tuned your i/h/e yet???

..i gained 23whp with only the SMSP header and 2.5" exhaust. Untuned, on a completely stock 98 ITR motor.

Arno</TD></TR></TABLE>
?? verify this please...ide really like to see that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Graditude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">?? verify this please...ide really like to see that </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think a lot of us would like for this to be verified.

Regarding the cam situation, you really shouldn't go to anything much crazier than the stock cams unless you have a setup that's built to support crazy cams. In other words, if your engine is stock, just keep the stock cams, or upgrade to something slightly more agressive.

 

i have a JDM Type R engine, DC sports 4-1 headers, B&M fuel pressure regulator, weapon R intake, skunk 2 mani

 

USDM or JDM DC 4-1? Ditch that intake, put the stock intake manifold back on.

 

what everyone else said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryry2306 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a JDM Type R engine, DC sports 4-1 headers, B&M fuel pressure regulator, weapon R intake, skunk 2 mani</TD></TR></TABLE>

Basically, you spent a lot of money on virtually nothing. Do yourself a favor: Revert your car back to stock, sell those parts, and start over.

 

damn guy. like kendall said, you wasted your money. your stock header is just as good or better than the DC header, you don't need to upgrade the fuel system yet, the skunk2 manifold is the same thing as the itr manifold, and...well, a weapon R intake just isn't a good intake.

yeah, put your car back to stock, sell your parts, and start over.

 

IMO the best first go quick mods to do are in order of what i would do if i could do it all over again:

1) final drive, or if you have JDM tranny w/ the 4.785 already a USDM R 4th gear

2) OBDI and a chip

3) i/h/e as one no point in doing 1 w/o the other 2 (dont cheap out if you can afford the good ****, SMSP, etc..)

then, go on a dyno and get tuned

But this has nothing to do with your post....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryry2306 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a JDM Type R engine, DC sports 4-1 headers, B&M fuel pressure regulator, weapon R intake, skunk 2 mani
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Basically what everyone said is correct.

With your modification setup as it is, you will see a bunch more power out of revamping your current bolt-on situation than you would adding even the most aggressive cams you can find.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Graditude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
?? verify this please...ide really like to see that
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think a lot of us would like for this to be verified.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont have the dyno graphs on the computer im on now, They are on my laptop and that is not with me. but if you search my archieved topics you will see it. It was posted way back, so if you find it hard to believe check them, the dyno graphs are there to back it up, i dont gain anything by lying.

Arno

 

type of exhuast i should go with and cold air?

 

the cams you deicide on really depend on how much money you can spend in other areas of the motor. you will need to increase the flow in and out of the head to take full use of some radical cams. i have skunk stage 1 in my R and, frankly, i should have stuck with the stock ones and just did a **** load of tuning.

 

so what mods should i do first?

 

I would suggest instead of spending your money on "mods," invest in a HPDE/driving school and really learn how to drive first. Once you learn how to drive, then aftermarket would be appropriate. Many driving schools have a number of different programs designed to improve the skills of all drivers, both on road and track. Courses are held nationwide(in most states) throughout the year. Along with this are some requirements, such as students have to provide their own vehicle(which you already have )which must pass a basic safety inspection and a helmet, which should cost between $100-$150.

 

isn't the skunk 2 IM basically a ITR IM?

Stage 3 cams, normally need a new drivetrain too. Using them on an almost stock engine isn't really worth it. If you gogin to run any cams with your set up stage 1 would be fine IMO.

 

Before you start doing things to your engine, you should get a nice set of coilovers, better brake pads, then a solid i/h/e setup.

 

i/h/e??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryry2306 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i/h/e??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Intake, Header, and exhaust.

A good start would be a Comptech Icebox Intake, the JDM DC 4-1 Header, and something like the T1R Exhaust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Intake, Header, and exhaust.

A good start would be a Comptech Icebox Intake, the JDM DC 4-1 Header, and something like the T1R Exhaust.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a real good budget bolt-on setup, combined you would probably see a 12-18whp gain rather than your current possible loss of horsepower over stock.

To the guy that asked about the manifold, yes, the skunk2 and itr are basically the same. However the skunk2 ports don't index perfectly with the head ports, giving the ITR manifold the advantage IMO.

 

o.k., i gues i'll answer your original question. the BC spec III are the better choice. Omniman has a dyno of these cams in the n/a section and they made good power. its true that you should have left all of the jdm **** that was on the motor originally, but, with that said, for the c/r that you have and the oem valvetrain, the BC spec III is by far the better choice.