Ok.. I'm doing a build-up on my car with the following mods ..

Full head job (mill -020, port, polish, port-match IM, reshape chambers, etc.)
JUN valve springs
JUN retainers
JUN3 Cams
JUN ECU (tuned for JUN3 cams)
AEM cam gears
AEM pulleys
AEM FPR
Hondata heatshield IM gasket
JDM 4-1 header
2.5" test pipe in place of cat (temporary until Carsound arrives)
Greddy EVO2 cat-back
Comptech IceBox
MSD SCI
MSD SS Coil
MSD 8.5mm wires
Denso Iridium plugs (IK20)
ARP head studs
Walbro 190lph fuel pump

What do you think ?? I have been told that the IceBox won't do for this setup and that I should move to an AEM CAI .. comments ?? The block is 100% bone-stock and I don't want to mess with it since it looks to be in really nice shape. The car runs exclusively on Mobil 1 and gets a new fill every other month. I appreciate the feedback !!

 

close to 200 whp imo

 

stock bottom end?

you'll be close i guess

 

iLL be interesante to see... ...should be close id imagine!!!

 

Sounds pretty close but that ECU will probably hold you back. I would suggest a stand alone or atleast Hondata. Tuning is key!! and I dont think you need that ignition stuff. AEM CAI should be fine. the JUN ECU is not going to know how to run a ported and polished head. I dont think you need a fuel pump either. I have more work than that and have stock ignition and fuel pump. Save the money from the fuel pump and ECU and get a Hondata or stand alone EMS.

 

with the JUN ECU (tuned for JUN3 cams) I would think you migh squeeze more power out with either the AEM EMS or Hondata.
The air intake should be fine, can you spend for the Mugen one instead?
And the fuel pump, is that needed?

 

no i dont think you will, but you will be in the 190's prolly low..you only have stock pistons


my friend in his r motor is running 12.6:1 with toda spec's and toda valve spring..his toda header held him back a lot of power but he only dyno'd 200whp on the dot thats with SGT tuning it

 

Why do you want to use the JUN ECU?

I think you will have a hard time reaching 200 whp.

 

I just dont understand why someone would want to go through all that work, and not have a completely tunable system. Doesnt make sense to do that. The JUN ECU is tuned for a particular motor set up. Even if you had the EXACT SAME PARTS as the motor that ECU was tuned on, your motor will not run the same as that one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just dont understand why someone would want to go through all that work, and not have a completely tunable system. Doesnt make sense to do that. The JUN ECU is tuned for a particular motor set up. Even if you had the EXACT SAME PARTS as the motor that ECU was tuned on, your motor will not run the same as that one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I do belive that a tune-able system will cost more, maybe the unkown factor- Money?

 

I would not get the ignition stuff, aem pulleys, and jun ecu. I would instead go with hondata for tuning, stock ignition is fine. You also shouldnt need a fuel pump assuming you have the 135lph stock pump. I personally prefer the icebox over the aem as well. Better thorttle response, quieter, and no worrys about hydrolock. I think you will be very close to 200 whp I would guess 195-205, Im not could with milling though how much is .020 milled off the head going to raise your compression? You may also want to go with a 2 layer headgasket to get a little higher compression. I would try and get it around 11.5 to 1 for Jun 3's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well I do belive that a tune-able system will cost more, maybe the unkown factor- Money?</TD></TR></TABLE>

of course its gonna cost more. but dont be pissed when the car runs like chit. but then again, if a decent tuner is not available, then the car may run like chit anyway. been there, done that

 

I think you'll hit ludicrous speed....

 

Hey thanks for the comments .. I agree that a tuneable ECU such as Hondata would be a better way to go but I want to see how high I can go with the JUN ECU. The ECU was not expensive and if it gets me to 200whp (or reasonably close) I'll be happy. My car is not a full race car; its a daily driver with some spirit and I really don't want to be swapping parts or reprogramming ECUs all the time. Basically, I want to go as "plug-and-play" as possible .. don't flame me for this

As for compression goes; the head is getting milled .020 and the chambers are being reshaped GS-R style. Both of these mods should raise my compression to where the JUN3s will be happy. I had a Spoon 2-ply which went bad before this buildup so I am sticking with OEM head gasket this time. The ARP stud upgrade should help prevent another bad head gasket.

The fuel pump issue is interesting.. You guys are saying I can get away without upgrading the fuel pump ?? Does anyone know the maximum power an OEM pump can hold ??

Lastly, regarding the ignition stuff; I already had those pieces (MSD parts) so I see no harm in installing them I must say, I've had good results with MSD components in the past.

 

How do gaskets go "bad?"

 

My head gasket went bad as in car heating up, loss of power, uneven compression readings on the cylinders. Why did it go bad ?? I don't know .. It was torqued properly, and installed properly.. The car was basically stock at the time too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iperez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The fuel pump issue is interesting.. You guys are saying I can get away without upgrading the fuel pump ?? Does anyone know the maximum power an OEM pump can hold ?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Interesting point.
The thing is I'm sure the fuel pump can supply enough fuel, but if you're trying to reach 200 whp I'm fairly certain you'll be needing bigger injectors.
Prelude 270's would be a good start, if not some 310's.
Since you're running a plug and play ECU I'd also suggest an AEM FPR (which I see is already on your list) to have some basic fuel control.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iperez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey thanks for the comments .. I agree that a tuneable ECU such as Hondata would be a better way to go but I want to see how high I can go with the JUN ECU. The ECU was not expensive and if it gets me to 200whp (or reasonably close) I'll be happy. My car is not a full race car; its a daily driver with some spirit and I really don't want to be swapping parts or reprogramming ECUs all the time. Basically, I want to go as "plug-and-play" as possible .. don't flame me for this
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No flame, but once your car has been tuned correctly you will never have a need to mess with it unless you start adding things or changing setting to say like cam gears...
And then if you do up-grade something, you can re-tune it to get even more power if the new items can produce more.

Just food for thought.

Do you have to worry about emmisions like in some States?

 

I dont think fuel pumps are rated by "power". But rather, flow. If you are using a much larger injector for something like a turbo application, then fuel pump is key. But for what you have planned, I dont see a need for upgrading that. Im running larger injectors and fuel pressure is close to stock and have not had a problem.

Dont get me wrong, Im not trying to flame you for using that ECU. I just dont think its a good idea. If you are gonna go so far as to reshape your combustion chambers, then why run a "standard" type ECU? With the stand alones or Hondata, you dont have to "reprogram your ECU all the time". You start with a base map, get a good tuned map, and you can leave it like that, or the more you learn, you can begin making changes to see how your car reacts. If you make a change you dont like, it only takes a few seconds to reload the previous map.

But its your set up and if you wanna see how it comes out then thats all you. Maybe afterwards if its not running up to par, then you can upgrade to a tunable ECU. But I did learn recently how sensitive the JUN3s are to very slight fuel changes. If your JUN ECU fuel map isnt the best, your car will run like dog poop. My first run on the dyno with a "decent" fuel map only netted about 158whp. 2 runs later with very slight fuel changes, I was over 200whp. Being able to tune in very small increments is key.

 

NO.. I think maybe 185.. good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iperez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My head gasket went bad as in car heating up, loss of power, uneven compression readings on the cylinders. Why did it go bad ?? I don't know .. It was torqued properly, and installed properly.. The car was basically stock at the time too </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, so what happened? Was there a crack in the head gasket?

 

I would put that setup at high 180's-low 190's.

 

sounds like an exspensive way to go but 200hp sounds possible

 

i wouldnt be surprised if you hit 200 whp. good luck

and i would rather go for J's racing intake or mugen instead of AEM

 

That catback might hold you back.