DIY: How to remove Cruise Control *EK*
This was done on my 97 civic coupe, but can be applied to pretty much any car as my boy's prelude was done in the exact same way.
what you need:
1. Time
2. 10mm socket
3. 12mm box wrench
4. vacuum port cap (for those with a vaccum port for the cruise)
I am going to start by saying that this is a fairly straight forward process, and most of you should be able to figure this out just by looking at how it works.

first, use your 12mm wrench, and loosen the tension on the throttle cable. Then pull back the little rubber boot, and disconnect the throttle cable from the cruise control unit.
Next, remove all of the hoses and lines from this unit. Disconnect the electrical connnections and tuck them out of the way.
Now, use the 10mm socket to remove the 3 bolts holding this unit in. Now that that is out, make sure to pretty things up and remove the breather hoses from the fender and such.
Next is the throttle cable. If you look under your dash at the top of the gas pedal, there are two throttle cables. The one you want to get rid of is the very top one.
shown here to the best of my ability.

to remove this, i simply used a screw driver to unbend the top enough to pull the cable out....like this

Now, go to the engine bay, and to remove the throttle cable from the firewall, there should be a little tab on the grommet for grip. Twist the grommet 90 degrees, and it should pull right out.
and you are left with this:

any questions?
EDIT: Make sure to cap off the vacuum port on the manifold, or it will cause idle problems. I didnt have one, so i didnt worry about it. However, most of you will, and will need some sort of cap or plug. They can be bought cheap at an auto parts store.
Modified by BigZ88 at 1:52 PM 3/14/2004
what you need:
1. Time
2. 10mm socket
3. 12mm box wrench
4. vacuum port cap (for those with a vaccum port for the cruise)
I am going to start by saying that this is a fairly straight forward process, and most of you should be able to figure this out just by looking at how it works.

first, use your 12mm wrench, and loosen the tension on the throttle cable. Then pull back the little rubber boot, and disconnect the throttle cable from the cruise control unit.
Next, remove all of the hoses and lines from this unit. Disconnect the electrical connnections and tuck them out of the way.
Now, use the 10mm socket to remove the 3 bolts holding this unit in. Now that that is out, make sure to pretty things up and remove the breather hoses from the fender and such.
Next is the throttle cable. If you look under your dash at the top of the gas pedal, there are two throttle cables. The one you want to get rid of is the very top one.
shown here to the best of my ability.

to remove this, i simply used a screw driver to unbend the top enough to pull the cable out....like this

Now, go to the engine bay, and to remove the throttle cable from the firewall, there should be a little tab on the grommet for grip. Twist the grommet 90 degrees, and it should pull right out.
and you are left with this:

any questions?
EDIT: Make sure to cap off the vacuum port on the manifold, or it will cause idle problems. I didnt have one, so i didnt worry about it. However, most of you will, and will need some sort of cap or plug. They can be bought cheap at an auto parts store.
Modified by BigZ88 at 1:52 PM 3/14/2004
Nice, I'm taking mine out as well... It sticks the throttle open after some use, and left me revving at a tool booth... it was funny to see the look on the ladies face... but it pisses me off.. and I don't use it that often so... bye bye...
Nice write up.
I hate a cluttered engine bay...
Nice write up.
I hate a cluttered engine bay...
im confused as to why you would do this? weight? or just a little more room? OR... does this really make the peddle stick? Ive yet to have any problems with that.
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From: Shoot first, ask questions later...RVA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IDriveAHonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice! I had thought about doing one on this or PS removal
</TD></TR></TABLE>
go ahead and do it on the PS removal...never too many write-ups. I heard there is some trick to make to remove the PS and do something to make it kinda easy to turn the wheel. I don't know though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>go ahead and do it on the PS removal...never too many write-ups. I heard there is some trick to make to remove the PS and do something to make it kinda easy to turn the wheel. I don't know though.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swatdog »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, im a noob, but what's the point of removing CC? </TD></TR></TABLE>
its big and ugly...
who needs cruise control anyways?
toughen up..
its big and ugly...
who needs cruise control anyways?
toughen up..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swatdog »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, im a noob, but what's the point of removing CC? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know if I speak for everyone, but I did because of 'clutter'; clean up the bay.
I don't know if I speak for everyone, but I did because of 'clutter'; clean up the bay.
truthfully, the reason i did it, which i forgot to put in the write up is thefact that my JDM b16 didnt come with a vaccuum port for the cruise on the intake manifold. Therefore, it was pointless for me to have in there. Most do it for the clutter however.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im confused as to why you would do this? weight? or just a little more room? OR... does this really make the peddle stick? Ive yet to have any problems with that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your peddle would only stick if the throttle cable gets stuck on the thing it wraps around in the engine bay. or it rubs on something. i had this on my car and it rubbed the wire down to about 3 or 4 strands. that would have been a biotch if it snapped.
also, there might be a wire on the brake pedal you might have to cut. when i removed mine, i had a wire hooked up to my brake pedal so the CC disengages when you brake.
your peddle would only stick if the throttle cable gets stuck on the thing it wraps around in the engine bay. or it rubs on something. i had this on my car and it rubbed the wire down to about 3 or 4 strands. that would have been a biotch if it snapped.
also, there might be a wire on the brake pedal you might have to cut. when i removed mine, i had a wire hooked up to my brake pedal so the CC disengages when you brake.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deviant1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also, there might be a wire on the brake pedal you might have to cut. when i removed mine, i had a wire hooked up to my brake pedal so the CC disengages when you brake.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea you can remove all of that, and the little control box under the dash and all of that too if you feel like messing with it all. but it is not necessary.
also, there might be a wire on the brake pedal you might have to cut. when i removed mine, i had a wire hooked up to my brake pedal so the CC disengages when you brake.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea you can remove all of that, and the little control box under the dash and all of that too if you feel like messing with it all. but it is not necessary.
just took mine out... took about a half hour... 20 minutes of that time, was running back and forth to autozone, because I got the wrong facuum cap
the size is 1/8" on the intake manifold if anyone is interested
the size is 1/8" on the intake manifold if anyone is interested
Kinda off topic, but does anybody have any idea how hard it would be to install it in a car that lacks it? I want CC in mine and don't have it.
nice write up, no plug for the cable coming thru the fire wall? and as for the vacum plug, what do you ask for, it's like the "Bitch Pin" in the shift linkage?
I don't think most stores will understand that?
I don't think most stores will understand that?
The plug is just a small cap. I've got mine plugged with a small metal plug in the end of some hose with safety wire holding it in. Has worked just fine for years.
nice write up man
when I took mine out I completely forgot about capping off the place where the vacuum line goes in the back of the intake manifold
It idled really really shitty.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R33CIVIC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
go ahead and do it on the PS removal...never too many write-ups. I heard there is some trick to make to remove the PS and do something to make it kinda easy to turn the wheel. I don't know though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
when I took out my power steering I looped the rack with a couple aeroquip fittings and an acura "power cooler" hose that bends in a U shape. If you want to make it super easy to turn the wheel...almost like having power steering then you can install a breather that t's into the hose that you looped the rack with. The h-t user "Padawan" sells premade kits that he puts together to loop the rack and install a breather
when I took mine out I completely forgot about capping off the place where the vacuum line goes in the back of the intake manifold
It idled really really shitty.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R33CIVIC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
go ahead and do it on the PS removal...never too many write-ups. I heard there is some trick to make to remove the PS and do something to make it kinda easy to turn the wheel. I don't know though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
when I took out my power steering I looped the rack with a couple aeroquip fittings and an acura "power cooler" hose that bends in a U shape. If you want to make it super easy to turn the wheel...almost like having power steering then you can install a breather that t's into the hose that you looped the rack with. The h-t user "Padawan" sells premade kits that he puts together to loop the rack and install a breather
For the Vacuum Caps, go to an autozone or auto parts place, and ask for Vacuum caps... they are small black rubber caps. The size on the intake manifold is 1/8", they come in different sizes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Irishweird00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the Vacuum Caps, go to an autozone or auto parts place, and ask for Vacuum caps... they are small black rubber caps. The size on the intake manifold is 1/8", they come in different sizes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks...
1 parts name is solved... now if only i could remember the real name for "bitch pin"
thanks...
1 parts name is solved... now if only i could remember the real name for "bitch pin"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grimm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thanks...
1 parts name is solved... now if only i could remember the real name for "bitch pin"</TD></TR></TABLE>
i believe its a 9mm roll pin.
Ricey: If you dont have all of the wiring there, i believe it would be a pretty big pain in the *** to install. There is a control box that needs to be wired in, along with clutch and brake switches. It would be alot of wiring, but if you are comfortable with that, then go for it.
thanks...
1 parts name is solved... now if only i could remember the real name for "bitch pin"</TD></TR></TABLE>
i believe its a 9mm roll pin.
Ricey: If you dont have all of the wiring there, i believe it would be a pretty big pain in the *** to install. There is a control box that needs to be wired in, along with clutch and brake switches. It would be alot of wiring, but if you are comfortable with that, then go for it.


