Hey hey guys. Yet another project coming up. In order to run my car at the track (which is less than a month away from opening), I need to have all four wheel studs on all four wheels with lug nuts. Unfortunately for me, Both my front wheels have 1 stud (1 on drivers side, 1 on passenger side) missing/broken... So I get to take the liberty of changing them.

Plus it's not a bad idea because with the LS/VTEC now into the breaking axles fun zone, I probably want as much security down there as possible.

So the previous owner (who had the b16a in there) handed me the two studs I need.

They are labeled 269 <U>W</U> 10.9 (Not sure what any of this means but oh well.

I'm going to do the instal myself at school in our auto-shop but I have not the slightest clue on what I'm going to need to do. Anyone know of any guides or anyhting that could step by step walk me through this?

Not sure if this helps at all but it's a 1991 CRX Si with an LS/VTEC swap.

 

are the studs broke off in there rotor?

 

They are broken in half... But half of them still remain bolted in.

 

http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/wheelstud.html

 

Nice link! Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourthGenHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/wheelstud.html</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is this really a good idea?

 

what the f.... times 1,000,000,000

you got to take out the whole assembly off and a part (the most pain in the *** thing to do to put new studs(extended ones in aswell) all you got to do is take the hub off of the bearing, press it out with a press or have a big socket over it it like a 22 or 24 mm socket then hit the crap out of it. then you hit them out hard with a hammer then line up the teeth, and hammer them right back in where they use to(you can also put a spot weld behind the stud if you want to, just to be safe but if you do it right then you have nothing to worrie about), none of that bs cutting..that an't safe at all....if any of you guys want to know the a right way to do it just pm me

 

hahahha.. i woudln't..

if i were you, ide take the knuckles off, take them to a machine shop, have them press it in and out, and charge you like 20 bucks.. ide rather be out 20 bucks.. than to have wheels fall off.

 

i mean i'm not tryin to be mean or any thing, becasue from all the info that is on that site its all really good, but i mean i thought you would of done it another way. just lookin at that just give me chills

 

i didnt pull my hubs off since i didnt want to ruin the wheel bearings which usually happens. all i did was grind the knuckle right between the two holes where the caliper bokts up to, u can sneak the studs through very easily.

i just removed some crap skunk2 studs about 2 hours ago.

 

This has got to be a joke....... putting in new wheel studs takes about 10mins and their is no need to cut anything. Just take your wheel off hammer them out and put new ones in. In the rear you have to pull the drum brake cover off but besides that its about as straight forward as it gets.

 

who here has even done it? i have....also whats wrogn witht he skunk2 one i don't know because i got the arp ones.

 

I've done it on my car, I put in new bearings while I was at it, pressed the hub out, check hub for damage, press in the wheel studs (I used ARP) pressed out the bearing, and reverse process for assembly, wasn't hard at all. I would never trust grinding off a part of the stud like pictured above.

 

I would not do what that site says.

 

i just fixed a few on mine last week. Its not critical, but it isn't too good. just having 3 lugs weakens the whole assembly.
if your swaping the front....

remove tire, remove caliper, remove rotor, take hammer and find stud you want to remove, swap it with the hammer till it pops out... for install take new stud, grind on side of the lip off the top :you'll see what im talking about:, this will allow it to clear the hub assembly, swap back side with hammer, reinstall rotor, caliper, wheel, and then the lugs...

you may want to take a large thick washer over the new lug and tighen it down to secure the new stud to the assembly.

rears are basicly the same except you don't need to grind the lip off the new stud, but you will need to tighen the stud with a lug nut because you can't hit it with a hammer because of clearnance issues.

HTH

SO SIMPLE

 

I would personally try not to pound on any of the studs with a hammer. The impact can damage the bearings and cause them to fail down the road.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H.crx-si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This has got to be a joke....... putting in new wheel studs takes about 10mins and their is no need to cut anything. Just take your wheel off hammer them out and put new ones in. In the rear you have to pull the drum brake cover off but besides that its about as straight forward as it gets.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i assume youve never done this before on a CRX then. the problem which ppl are making issue of and why the ghetoo way of installing a new head bolt is because the hub dimensions dont allow the wheel stud to clear out before being blocked by the knuckle. which is why the proper weay to replace a front wheel stud is to take the hub out.

secondly, dont HAMMER the wheel stud out or hammer it back in with the hub still attached to the knuckle/spindle. this TOTALLY wrecks the wheel bearing. use a C clamp at the least to press it in.

notice something wrong with this bearing race? what happens when you hammer a wheel stud with the hub still attached to the spindle/knuckle.



another thing that site that is totally bad advice is using a bolt to tighten the new stud back in. this is bad advice because doing so will probably exceed the max torque parameters of the wheel stud and stretch it past the yield point, at the base, the point that gets the most stress. the results could be another broken stud, but next time, perhaps with the wheel on and in use.

i think a better alternative than grinding off the wheel stud, is grind off part of the KNUCKLE, theres plenty of meat on the knuckle, and then you dont damage the wheel stud and you only have to make ONE grind per front knuckle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


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At least you don't have to grind in a notch into the race to use a puller

 

ya know what i said may not be the RIGHT way, but for someone doing this in their driveway it sure is the easy way. i like doing things as easy as possible and when i have to change my studs thats how i do them... i personally have never EVER had anything break from doing it my way.

 

i took the front nukle of all together to put mine in but i have 3 inch studs. it was easy as hell didnt even have to press the hub apart!

 

why does that site say to grind down some of the stud. im puzzled as to why you would do this... someone explain this please

 

You cut the stud because it is too big to clear the hub.

All of you can say how much you wouldn't do it but its your choice. The area of the stud that actually fits into the hub is not at all effected by cutting out the top of it. It's not going anywhere. I've had it like that for who knows how long with no adverse effects.

Anyone who's ever done a wheel bearing knows that **** is a pain in the ***. Unless you have a press on hand than I wouldn't be banging anything with a hammer, that is an even bigger dumbass move.

 

so how would you replace it without grinding it down? you say you bough t it from honda but wouldnt honda sell them for the right car? im still confused....

 

I've hammered outt te old ones and just pushed in the new ones and tightened the wheel. No problems for me...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourthGenHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You cut the stud because it is too big to clear the hub.

All of you can say how much you wouldn't do it but its your choice. The area of the stud that actually fits into the hub is not at all effected by cutting out the top of it. It's not going anywhere. I've had it like that for who knows how long with no adverse effects.

Anyone who's ever done a wheel bearing knows that **** is a pain in the ***. Unless you have a press on hand than I wouldn't be banging anything with a hammer, that is an even bigger dumbass move.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i didnt need to cut the stud and i have 3 inch extended studs in!