Sorry, i'm kind of a newb.

I just wanna know how to check the CEL code, i know you have to jump something, but i dunno where. I have a 98 hatch CX. I think it has something to do with my o2 sensor, but i don't exactly know how to check...i mean, i've seen it done before but don't know what/where i have to jump it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

It's pretty easy.

Although your car is OBD2 and is best checked with an OBD2 diagnostic "scan tool" you can check the codes yourself easily and even see what they mean.

Look on your passenger side under dash area near where your ECU is located. You should look and feel around for a two-prong plug that will more than likely be green or blue or even brown.

Take a piece of wire or a bent paper clip and touch one side each of your wire or paperclip to each of the pins on that plug. This will complete the "loop" and allow you to check your codes.

Turn your key into the "on" position just before the car actually cranks, and count the flashing check engine lights.

Long flashes mean 10, while short flashes mean 1. So if you had 2 long blinks quicly follwed by 3 short flashes you'd have a code 23. You may se more than one code, so be sure to count the flashes until you see the same code repeated again to be sure you got all the codes.

The codes are as follows:

Code Meaning
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater

Also there are more in the 70's I *think* and they mean random misfires, which usually means you need spark plugs and/or wires or a general tune-up.

 

thanks dude, i just actually had trouble finding the thing, but once i popped open that panel it was easy to see....


Now, i threw a code 41...does that mean i need a new o2 sensor? what is an o2 sensor heater???

thanks.

 

It means you need a new primary o2 snsor, which should be located inside your catalytic convertor, which is under your hood where a header would normally be.

The 96-00 Civic hatches all had their cat convertors right there in the exhaust manifold, and the primary o2 is located there too.

Let me give you some priceless advice:

Do NOT buy Bosch or any other off-brand o2 sensor.

Do NOT buy any o2 sensor that reuiwres you cutting and splicing wires because it will always throw a CEL.

Try to buy either the genuine Honda unit (which will probably crazy expensive to the tune of over $200.00) or an NTK/NGK 4-wire o2 sensor that already has the plug on it. Again do not buy the universal type that requires hacking wires.

 

thank you kind sir.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by outlawtas2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you kind sir.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what H-T is here for bro.

 

one more thing....

is the primary 02 the one that is coming directly out of the manifold? Cuz there's one before and after the cat right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by outlawtas2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one more thing....

is the primary 02 the one that is coming directly out of the manifold? Cuz there's one before and after the cat right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it is the first one in line if you think of it as coming from the exhaust ports on the head.

It should be sticking out of the exhaust manifold under the hood, not under the car.

Let me go look at my Mom's 1997 Del Sol S real quick and see if I can snap a pic - it has the exact same engine you do...

 

Here is the primary o2:



And here's the wires and plug:



You'll want to buy a socket made specifically for removing o2 sensors, because they are a bitch to get out. I forgot the actaul size though...I'm a tard.

 

thanks a lot. Very helpful.
People like you are why honda-tech forums rule!

one last thing, is it a direct bolt in, or (besides wiring up to the plug) is there a lot of work to do?


Modified by outlawtas2 at 6:40 PM 3/14/2004

 

tom beat me to it nice and easy...

here's the process in a neat little page just for future reference
http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/03.php

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by outlawtas2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks a lot. Very helpful.
People like you are why honda-tech forums rule!

one last thing, is it a direct bolt in, or (besides wiring up to the plug) is there a lot of work to do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you get the direct plun-in type there is nothing more to the job than unscrewing the old unit (which can be a pain if it's stuck pretty good) and screwing the new one in.

I'd recommend a bit of anti-seize juice on the threads of the new o2 sensor to ensure i doesn't get stuck if you ever need o change it again. Just be 1005 sure not to get anything on the actual sensor part. Be very careful to only put anti-seize on the threads.

Sometimes the old sensor is a bitch to get out, but if you buy the special o2 sensor socket from Auto-Zone or whatnot it should not be a problem.

The socket I bought has a slot down the side for the wiring to go through, and I believe it's made by Great Neck or some ****. It's always worked well for me in the past.

 

Do what he said just also soak the old o2 in rust penetrant before trying to pull it out it will make life a whole lot easier.

 

Great replies

 

I was gona ask "what about the wire" need to pick up one of thoes socket my self.

 

Also remove it while its hot. Be careful of getting burned but it makes it a lot easier.

 

damn!

i removed the old o2, put in the new one, and it's still throwing a code - only now, it's a code 54! How can that be?

 

check and make sure that it's firmly plugged in, it may have gotten unplugged when swapping o2, or you had two codes in there from the beginning. btw, the socket for the o2 sensor was a 22 mm correct?

 

yes, it was a 22.

i tried putting the old one back too, and same problem. Is it possible that i had 2 sensors that were bad? Does the cel do one, and then when that's fixed, display the next?


i tried connecting the plug again, and making sure it's all together. It looks good, but i'mnot sure why i'm pulling this new code....


Modified by outlawtas2 at 10:03 PM 3/14/2004

 

now if I jumped the plug in correctly, it would just keep flashing short right? Just to infinity?

 

????? I meant incorrectly, sorry.

 

I am throwing a code 45 (too rich too lean), and have been since I changed over to CTR cams...I have brand new spark plugs, Random Tech cat, fuel pressure is at 40lbs at idle, OBDII, and timing is at 17degrees....any ideas???

B16A2 in a 00 Si btw.

TIA for any ideas.

 

I have seen that with faulty O2 sensors.

 

i have a 98 coupe ex, is my ecu coverd with plastic or something?

 

bump for my question