All-motor or Turbo GSR???
New to this forum so if this has been asked before sorry. I just want some feedbacks on whether an All-motor GSR or Turbo GSR would be better (faster and reliable).
Greddy turbocharged GSR with stock internals boosting @7-8 psi.
OR
All-motor (JUN stage 2, TODA spec B) ie cams, camgears, pistons, rods, springs, retainers, throttle body, fuel system, hondata ecu
Greddy turbocharged GSR with stock internals boosting @7-8 psi.
OR
All-motor (JUN stage 2, TODA spec B) ie cams, camgears, pistons, rods, springs, retainers, throttle body, fuel system, hondata ecu
Im going to have to say get the turbo because you wont be losing to as many people as you would with out it. You can run 13s easy on that setup I think. I met a guy that lived in PA. He had that kit on a b20 in an integra with some slicks and ran 12.60s on it. Good luck with your car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by narib2oo1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya but you forget if you had 250 hp all-motor.That would rape a 250 turbocharged gsr.I prefer all-motor,that way you will never hear...ya but it has turbo,or nitrous or a stupid lame excuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you figure??? 250hp is 250hp. If two cars of the same weight have 250hp how is one goig to beat the other unless it is driver error?
How do you figure??? 250hp is 250hp. If two cars of the same weight have 250hp how is one goig to beat the other unless it is driver error?
All-Motor is for people that have deep pockets. True a 250 HP NA GS-R would take a 250 HP FI GS-R, but the guy with the FI GS-R would also be able to afford buying lunch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tachyteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How do you figure??? 250hp is 250hp. If two cars of the same weight have 250hp how is one goig to beat the other unless it is driver error?</TD></TR></TABLE>
And as a response to what's above, the FI GS-R has to spool to get the 250 HP. The NA just has it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tachyteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How do you figure??? 250hp is 250hp. If two cars of the same weight have 250hp how is one goig to beat the other unless it is driver error?</TD></TR></TABLE>
And as a response to what's above, the FI GS-R has to spool to get the 250 HP. The NA just has it.
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torque > horsepower
220whp turbo car with a the proper sized turbo will crank out 200 wheel torque.
220whp NA c1 will put out a pathetic 150 or so wtq.
220whp turbo car with a the proper sized turbo will crank out 200 wheel torque.
220whp NA c1 will put out a pathetic 150 or so wtq.
depends on what your aim is. if you want a reliabel everyday street car that can whoop *** light to light, then go NA. also, if you plan to autoX or anything, NA is better. for drag and highway racing though, the turbo will own. also, more probs with a turbo set up usually. in the end, it will prolly be more expensize... boost is addictive. youll never be satisfied. ok... enough typing.
Would someone who knows, like to elaborate on the differences between NA and turbo WHP? I think it goes beyond powerband and spooling.
Have you ever seen a 250whp turbocharged Integra go 11's? I havent, but I do know of an NA Integra that runs 11's.
And just FYI, I daily drive mine, and its more fun than NA EVER was. Every time I get in my car I have a smile on my face....dont think that turbo setups aren't for street or daily driven cars for a second!
Have you ever seen a 250whp turbocharged Integra go 11's? I havent, but I do know of an NA Integra that runs 11's.
And just FYI, I daily drive mine, and its more fun than NA EVER was. Every time I get in my car I have a smile on my face....dont think that turbo setups aren't for street or daily driven cars for a second!
I agree. daily drove my ls turbo teg for 2 years. only prob was a busted oil fitting taht came from auto meter, when i hooked up the oil press guage, othere than that just reg maintnece, although i did go thru plugs often
I think a GSR is too heavy to go all motor. If I went all motor, I'd go with a hatch or DX coupe.
Reliability depends on how much money you want to spend to make it reliable.
I know people with reliable turbo Hondas, because they got it tuned and keep boost at a responsible level ect.
Why not go with a ZEX 75 shot since you can't decide if you want go to N/A or F/I.
Reliability depends on how much money you want to spend to make it reliable.
I know people with reliable turbo Hondas, because they got it tuned and keep boost at a responsible level ect.
Why not go with a ZEX 75 shot since you can't decide if you want go to N/A or F/I.
No offense to the Na guys but
All motor is just too damn loud
Seriously though my favorite things about turbo is that it has so much potential. See with an Na setup you can only go so far, once you get there youve spent 3-4k, and your at a dead stop, and then when you want more you'll either have to swap it in to a hatch/crx, or sell everything and go turbo.
If I was ever to go Na, I would do it in a 2000lb car, not a 2500 lb car. Na just doesn't make the torque to really move the heavy integra.
Generally the point you see aloto f serious Na owners make is they do it for respect, and don't get me wrong people respect it when they race a fast car, and to thier suprise it is all motor, but the fact is in the end the only thing that matters(to most poeple) is how fast you are, not how you did it.
See i want to be the guy the domestic guys(ls1's) say damn thats guy is Fast! I love to see this look
on the face of the guy in the SS as you put 4-5 cars on him.
See i am very competitive, but at the same time i'm not a sore loser. There will always be someone faster than you, and when I lose a race it just makes me want to come back 10x harder the next time around. This is why Turbo is for me, because I have that potential to make my car faster
All motor is just too damn loud
Seriously though my favorite things about turbo is that it has so much potential. See with an Na setup you can only go so far, once you get there youve spent 3-4k, and your at a dead stop, and then when you want more you'll either have to swap it in to a hatch/crx, or sell everything and go turbo.
If I was ever to go Na, I would do it in a 2000lb car, not a 2500 lb car. Na just doesn't make the torque to really move the heavy integra.
Generally the point you see aloto f serious Na owners make is they do it for respect, and don't get me wrong people respect it when they race a fast car, and to thier suprise it is all motor, but the fact is in the end the only thing that matters(to most poeple) is how fast you are, not how you did it.
See i want to be the guy the domestic guys(ls1's) say damn thats guy is Fast! I love to see this look
on the face of the guy in the SS as you put 4-5 cars on him. See i am very competitive, but at the same time i'm not a sore loser. There will always be someone faster than you, and when I lose a race it just makes me want to come back 10x harder the next time around. This is why Turbo is for me, because I have that potential to make my car faster
if you don't know how to drive you'll break your all motor engine easy like a snap of a finger. For me I'm a all motor believer. All my friends knoes dat for a fact.
GOT BOOST......Hell No!!!
but if want really to do some major damage to those v8's go turbo. Turn on your high boost and you'll be set. It's just turn on the boost. So I suggest go TURBO. Vrooom!!!!!!
Thanks for the responses guys. I was actually leaning more towards turbo but just needed some opinions. I guess thats TURBO for sure.
However, I do want to make sure that you all think that GREDDY is good?
I have a 00 GSR and plan on using GREDDY w/just stock internals.
However, I do want to make sure that you all think that GREDDY is good?
I have a 00 GSR and plan on using GREDDY w/just stock internals.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shupaGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from what ive heard, greddy is a good starter turbo, and once u get to know all the parts, you can piece by piece, make it into a better setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just put together your own kit, it's cheaper than way (and it'll make more power than the greddy kit)
Just put together your own kit, it's cheaper than way (and it'll make more power than the greddy kit)
I would normally suggest either a Revhard kit to start out with, but seeing as how your in Cali, The Greddy kit, may save you many trips to the REF.
The Revhard will make more power, no doubt, but it won't pass emissions.
The Revhard will make more power, no doubt, but it won't pass emissions.
Well it depends, if you can save all at once, or don't mind going into debt, or have the money already, go Turbo,
If you are like me, in college, slow budget, I am just gradually building my motor, knowing ti will never be as fast as a turbo car. But when I get out of school I will build it up, and it will be straight.
If you are like me, in college, slow budget, I am just gradually building my motor, knowing ti will never be as fast as a turbo car. But when I get out of school I will build it up, and it will be straight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quikB18B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would normally suggest either a Revhard kit to start out with, but seeing as how your in Cali, The Greddy kit, may save you many trips to the REF.
The Revhard will make more power, no doubt, but it won't pass emissions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
about the emissions part, can you elaborate a little more? you mean it wont pass the visual inspection? what about the actual tail pipe test? would it pass the actual test..that's all i need to know....i don't see why it wouldn't pass the actual test with a functioning cat....(i used to work at this smog place and since i know the guys, they wont say anything as long as it passes the actual test...)
The Revhard will make more power, no doubt, but it won't pass emissions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
about the emissions part, can you elaborate a little more? you mean it wont pass the visual inspection? what about the actual tail pipe test? would it pass the actual test..that's all i need to know....i don't see why it wouldn't pass the actual test with a functioning cat....(i used to work at this smog place and since i know the guys, they wont say anything as long as it passes the actual test...)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AnthonyA182 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just put together your own kit, it's cheaper than way (and it'll make more power than the greddy kit) </TD></TR></TABLE>
its cheaper, but for a noobie to turbo, they dont know whats what. if you get what i mean.
Just put together your own kit, it's cheaper than way (and it'll make more power than the greddy kit) </TD></TR></TABLE>
its cheaper, but for a noobie to turbo, they dont know whats what. if you get what i mean.


