How many of you out there think aftermarket lightweight flywheels make a difference worth their 300-400 dollar price tags? I've got a CM 9lb flywheel in my B17 and I'm on the verge of putting my stock one back in when I do my clutch change...as it feels like it's already warped causing odd clutch engagement...Also a friend put the same in his B16 crx, and riding in the car before and after, I couldn't tell much of a difference. Is it worth giving up the top end inertia? All opinions and thoughts welcome!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1stGENGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I couldn't tell much of a difference.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

really?
I love my flywheel
made my rpms climb faster, and rev matching, heel/toe easier

 

Dan GSR what flywheel did you get??

Weight?

 

exedy ~9lbs

 

my friend has the ACT prolite flywheel in his itr ...its pretty good ...but i dont have anything else to compare to because ive only drivin car with ACT flywheels ..

 

i have the cm 7.5 flywheel.. it always impress people how fast my car revs.. my car does accelrate faster but going up hills with the same amount of throttle would seems like its stuggling.. i dunno must be a mind thing..revmatching heel/toe is kinda difficult tho lol

 

i have the 7.5lb CM too...and i love it

i'll never have a car without a LW/FW anymore

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1stGENGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many of you out there think aftermarket lightweight flywheels make a difference worth their 300-400 dollar price tags?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think $250 is a more reasonable price estimate (sans labor, of course).

 

i had a CM and stage3 in my boosted b16 crx for a year with no warping problem. I couldn't really tell the difference before and after because i put the turbo and the flywheel in at the same time. it took me a week to get used to it, keep stalling in first gear in trafic.

 

~$250 shipped, and worth it, especially if you auto-x or road-race.

 

I hate to drive a car with out one- I have the JUN ultralight and I love it... had it for about four years now and she still looks brand new- mind you this is after seasons of drag and autox abuse.

 

i have the ACT streetlight and IMO def worth the money, revs faster, accels better, no downsides at all

 

Fidanza 6.5 unit here. Certainly made revv matching and heal-toe action easier on the track. Its actually very hard to notice a difference in acceleration after you get moving (3rd gear or higher) because inertia has taken over by then...but you can sure tell when getting out of the box.

 

I love my ACT Prolite

 

Don't get me wrong, I love the idea of taking weight off my crank helping out the reciprocating assembly. I know it takes stress off the clutch as well, but my main problem is this...I'm running a high compression B17 with a complete Skunk II valvetrain (stage 2 cams)...The catch is right now I'm running an LS tranny, which believe it or not, I like reaching 115 in 3rd and 85 in 2nd...I can hit the same speed in 2 shifts that a shorter geared tranny (say a B16) takes 3 shifts to reach, but with the taller gear ratios I have to red-line (9500rpm) from 1st to 2nd to keep V-TEC engaged. It seems as if my CM 9lb flywheel isn't providing enough inertia to keep the rpms up between shifts. And...wether or not I've actually warped it, I'll have to find out once I take the tranny off and get it to the machine shop to be balanced...As it could just be the clutch...

 

Or get a closer geared tranny and it will solve your problem of falling out of the powerband.

 

I'm curisou, I've always wondered this about lightweight flywheels because I'm stupid...... Okay so from what logic tells me, the way a lightweight flywheel works is it has less inertia so therefore its easier to get it accelerating (spinning)..... Making your revs climb faster.....

Now on occasion I have mis-shifted and been scared as hell as my tach pegs... I hear that the reason it keeps going is because the inertia of the flywheel or something? So technically would having a lighter weight flywheel reduce your risk of over-reving when mis-shifting becasue it wouldnt keep spinning as easily (because of the reduction in inertia?)

 

So far my Fidanza gets a . I did that and a number of other things at the same time, so I don't know exactly how it would have felt on a stock motor. Nonetheless, it's a great and relatively cheap mod IMO.

 

I have a different question about a lightweight flywheel...

My block was balanced as a complete unit from accessory pulley to the clutch/flywheel. I just picked up a Spoon 9lb unit and was wondering if just having the clutch and Spoon flywheel balanced would be enough, or would I need to pull the whole block and take it back to get all completely balanced?

Sorry for jacking the thread, and thanks in advance for any help.

 

You have do get the crank, pistons, rods, harmonic balancer, flywheel,(the clutch is usually optional) to have a full balance job...If everything's apart it shouldn't be over a hundred bucks...

 

I went from stock ~20lbs flywheel to ITR ~14lbs flywheel to exedy ~8.8lbs chromoly flywheel.

I was afraid of aluminum warping and I know some people say u cant get a chromoly flywheel resurfaced, but I did and I didnt have any problems, the guy did an awesome job.

All i can say is it makes ******* around on the street way more fun, the fun factor is way up there. If your car is a daily driver but you dont do a lot of stop and go, the lighter the better in my opinion. Once I got down to 8.8lbs my rpms would drop it would cause a rough idle for a second.

What was happening is the rev's were droping so fast that my ecu couldnt kick the idle up fast enough. It would drop down to about 500 then pick up 750 again. Hardly really noticable tho, WAY worth the fun factor.

BUT if you want to keep 100% daily drivablity, get a ACT chromoly street light 12.5lbs if you are baller OR just get an ITR flywheel for 100 bucks.

ITR flywheel is BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK

ANYTHING sub-9lbs is pure fun factor motivated.

Just as a reminder though, going from a sub 9lbs flywheel to a 14 or 20lbs flywheel makes the car feel like it takes forever. The other thing is, people with light flywheels the motor rev's up so fast its pretty tough on your valvetrain.

 

Nice logic, but kinda irrelevant...A lighter flywheel will allow you to tac out faster especially if your in nuetral...BUT, a heavier flywheel is not going to cause your needle to peg enough to notice a difference...The difference between a stock and lightened flywheel is noticable, but not drastic! Mishifting is mishifting and regardless of how heavy your flywheel is, your motor is gonna hit the shut-off until your rpms reach a safe level for whatever gear you're in...

 

I have a closer geared tranny (92' GSR YS1), but I don't have the dough to replace the synchro assembly, the 2nd gear set, or the 3rd gear set... However , like I said unlike most, I like the taller gears even though I can't rip through each gear quite as fast, I reach a substantially higher speed in each gear...Put it this way, I can do in two shifts what a B16 tranny does in three...I hit 115mph in 3rd at 9500rpm, What I was really tryin to figure out is wether or not putting the stock flywheel back on would give me that little extra bit of inertia so I won't have to tach quite so high, without taking too much from the low end! ROCKET are you out there...Omniman...ANYBODY...

 

You're looking at it really strangely...

What would a flywheel have to do with where the needle lands after an upshift? It's dependent on gearing not how fast the revs fall. In other words, you can't just shift really fast to keep the revs up. An LS with a stock flywheel and an LS with a light flywheel will not have different gearing.

Revving to 9500 rpm just to stay in VTEC is not the solution. As someone posted already, you need a GSR transmission. Though you have a higher top speed with the LS tranny I assure you that a GSR tranny will improve your acceleration.

 

yeh def ditch that tranny, dont let all that engine work go to waiste