Quick question about valve adjustment...
What socket size will i need to rotate the crankshaft pulley? 19mm? Helm mentions it for removing the pulley in conjunction with the "pulley holder attachement", i don't wanna get the car jacked up and find i don't have the right size
Thanks in advance!
Oh, and the locknuts are 10mm, correct? I love how helm gives you the thread pattern, but not the bolt head size
Thanks in advance!Oh, and the locknuts are 10mm, correct? I love how helm gives you the thread pattern, but not the bolt head size
Aleph, a quick question for you. How many miles are on your car now? I only have 5,000 miles and I think I hear some ticking noises at idle... I don't know if that means the valves need adjusting or what. The car has 2 autoX sessions under its belt... one of which the rev-limiter was hit upon for a few seconds in 1st gear. Am I paranoid, or is this something that I should look into? Thanks.
Either 17 or 19. I forgot...
Hrmmm remove the crank pulley? That is not needed... you just need to turn the motor over.... not remove the pulley.
Lock nuts are 10mm. Do you have the tool to adjust with? Or a home made one?
Willis
-who just did his 20,000 mile adjustment.
Hrmmm remove the crank pulley? That is not needed... you just need to turn the motor over.... not remove the pulley.
Lock nuts are 10mm. Do you have the tool to adjust with? Or a home made one?
Willis

-who just did his 20,000 mile adjustment.
I'll probably do it homemade style, i thought about gettign the snap on tool (and i might if this is too lame), but D and I did ours the first time with a pretty ghetto setup, and it wasn't that hard, deep socket with a screwdriver through it, set it a couple thousandths loose, hand tighten, and then when you torque down the locknut it either falls into spec or you do it again
I'm pretty sure it's 19, that's what goes on the inside of their pulley removal tool (i refer to it because it's the only place they give a socket size, i know it doesn't come off
)
As for tapping valves, i don't think that's too abnormal. I've hit my rev limiter a number of times, and autocross the car very regularly...it's at about 14,500 miles now, and i'm gonna do it a little before 15,000 because i've got a track day on wednesday that i'm thinking about attending, and wanna change the oil and make the valves happy. Don't sweat it unless it sounds really bizzare, try to find another Type R, it'll probably sound just like yours.
I'm pretty sure it's 19, that's what goes on the inside of their pulley removal tool (i refer to it because it's the only place they give a socket size, i know it doesn't come off
)As for tapping valves, i don't think that's too abnormal. I've hit my rev limiter a number of times, and autocross the car very regularly...it's at about 14,500 miles now, and i'm gonna do it a little before 15,000 because i've got a track day on wednesday that i'm thinking about attending, and wanna change the oil and make the valves happy. Don't sweat it unless it sounds really bizzare, try to find another Type R, it'll probably sound just like yours.
goto sears and get a manual starter(I think that's what is called). It's basically a large switch that attached to the starter. Just blip the switch and the engine turns over
(oh, don't forget to disconnect the plug wires!)
(oh, don't forget to disconnect the plug wires!)
You can do the valve adjustment without even jacking up the car or touching the crank pulley. Just put the car in fifth gear and push the car, I've done many valve adjustments like this and had no problems.
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just did mine recently, 19mm and 10mm is correct..
Aleph, it really makes it much easier w/ the tool, I think you can get one from sears for like 25-30 bucks, although the snapon one is nice
Aleph, it really makes it much easier w/ the tool, I think you can get one from sears for like 25-30 bucks, although the snapon one is nice
Hrm, didn't know sears had a valve adjustment tool, i'll have to take a peek at it. It really didn't bother me doing it the ghetto way though, in fact that's what i ended up doing even when D got the honda tool, it didn't seem to increase the accuracy of tightening, just made things a little easier to do work-wise....it's still a black art 
good suggestions for engine rotation, but i'll have the car up anyway for oil change, so i'll do it the ole fashioned way
Don't have alot of roll space in my garage anyway.

good suggestions for engine rotation, but i'll have the car up anyway for oil change, so i'll do it the ole fashioned way
Don't have alot of roll space in my garage anyway.
what i do is turn the front wheels all the way to the left. with a 6" extension and a fairly long ratchet you can turn the motor pretty easy without having to lift the car. also, i used the screw driver through a deep well, but with a vise-grip at the end of the deep well! i might have a friend weld something on it to make it easier to turn...
Sorry Sean, didn't mean to make you paranoid...
Your valves prolly sounded loud because they sound like my si...
We'll have to park our cars side by side with maybe Jeff's car and compare with all three idling to compare loudness...
Your valves prolly sounded loud because they sound like my si...
We'll have to park our cars side by side with maybe Jeff's car and compare with all three idling to compare loudness...
Aleph, I'll pitch in for the tool damn it!
J/K Are you in the process of doing this? If your not (and planning to tonight or tomorrow) you wanna get together? Let me know....got the Intake about an hour ago...and I'm REALLY debating on the wait til the 27th!
J/K Are you in the process of doing this? If your not (and planning to tonight or tomorrow) you wanna get together? Let me know....got the Intake about an hour ago...and I'm REALLY debating on the wait til the 27th!
Sorry Sean, didn't mean to make you paranoid...
Your valves prolly sounded loud because they sound like my si...
We'll have to park our cars side by side with maybe Jeff's car and compare with all three idling to compare loudness...
Your valves prolly sounded loud because they sound like my si...
We'll have to park our cars side by side with maybe Jeff's car and compare with all three idling to compare loudness...
let's compare
Sorry Sean, didn't mean to make you paranoid...
Your valves prolly sounded loud because they sound like my si...
We'll have to park our cars side by side with maybe Jeff's car and compare with all three idling to compare loudness...
hell yeah,
let's compare
Your valves prolly sounded loud because they sound like my si...
We'll have to park our cars side by side with maybe Jeff's car and compare with all three idling to compare loudness...
hell yeah,
let's compare
this weekend guys?
also, don't forget engine has to be cold... so if you guys meet at one place to do all three cars, they will be hot. some people say to wait at least three hours, Helms says less than I think 100 degrees F. i usually do mine in the morning so it has overnight to cool.
You can do the valve adjustment without even jacking up the car or touching the crank pulley. Just put the car in fifth gear and push the car, I've done many valve adjustments like this and had no problems.
You are pushing the car back and forth???
Just a suggestion. Next time you do a valve adjust, try turning the wheels all the way to the left. use a 19mm socket and push it through the "star" cutout on the splash shield onto the crank pulley bolt. Now turn the ratchet counter clockwise to find your marks on the cam sprockets. Now you dont have to push the car back and forth.
Unless you like pushing the car.
um I know where the crank pulley bolt is thank you. I can do it faster my way than you
All I have to do is grab on to the strut bar to move the car and I can look at the marks on the cam gears as I'm moving the car to line them up.
All I have to do is grab on to the strut bar to move the car and I can look at the marks on the cam gears as I'm moving the car to line them up.
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