i was told i don't really need hondata ... i have an all motor setup in my b16a crx...
itr cams, cam gears, skunk2 intake manifold,skunk2 ecu retuned, intake, exhaust, headers... yada yada yada

but to be able to tune it good would i be able to do it with a vafc?

 

it depends. if that's all the mods your going to do than a vafc would work but of course hondata work work better. Also make sure if you are going to get hondata you have a reputable tuner around you. But i think hondata is much better and more beneficial

 

hondata

 

if you are not willing to spend monye on the dyno then i say afc but if you are willing and have monye to spend on the dyno then get a hondata

 

I would definetly say v-afc for the money. more mods and more money would = hondata though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk2000Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would definetly say v-afc for the money. more mods and more money would = hondata though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A new VAFC can cost over $300, a Hondata s100 costs $250 and has far greater potential. Since it's not smart to be tuning the car when not on a dyno, I'd say go for the Hondata.

 

I run Hondata in both of my cars so guess what I would recommend ...
Hondata gives you more precise control of your air/fuel and timing maps,VTEC engagement, as well as other useful things.

 

hondata.

 

thanks guys!
and ya i got payn right across the river from me

 

Hondata and tuning on a dyno.

 

vafc should be fine for now but for further mods go hondata

 

Even though I have neither, I vote for Hondata. I think the VAFC-2 is pretty fly, but it still won't give you as much options as a Hondata. A VAFC-2 also costs near $400 I believe, while a Hondata s100 costs $250. The only drawbacks with a Hondata are that you have to be on an OBDI ECU to use (it costed me ~$300 to convert), and that you can only tune on a dyno unless you get a higher model Hondata and all the equipment... which I don't really see as necessary unless you're an expert at this stuff. You also need to have someone tune it that knows what they're doing, but Hondata's website has a pretty large list of vendors for this purpose. Bottom line, Hondata is the better choice in the long run, it just won't give you a cool little display like a VAFC does

Oh yeah, one advantage to the VAFC-2 (not VAFC-1) is that it can store 2 programmed settings, and you can save one setting for those trips to the emissions testers . Personally, I don't think it'll be a problem for me because I'd be able to keep my OBD1 p72 and Hondata in tact and just put my OBD2 p72 in for the test... you could go that route if you have the option.

 

Hondata all the way. If u make other mods after u wont have to spend no more money,

 

if you want to get the best out of your set up , then i would go with hondata ..
you will be surprise how much tuning helps..

 

Hondata, no question.

 

stupid question here but for $250 on the stage 1 hondata, what exactly do you get? just the chip or what? do you still have to buy a virgin p28 or is it included?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb20coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stupid question here but for $250 on the stage 1 hondata, what exactly do you get? just the chip or what? do you still have to buy a virgin p28 or is it included?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have to provide your own ECU... doesn't necisarily have to be a P28.

 

ya, that's what i needed to know. so in reality, i'll be spending $325-350 for the hondata stage 1.

 

hondata all the way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb20coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya, that's what i needed to know. so in reality, i'll be spending $325-350 for the hondata stage 1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, but the advantages it gives you over a VAFC will make it worth it.

Hondata S100: $250
Conversion Harness: $75
OBDI (in my case): $245

VAFC2: $300
Conversion Harness: $75
OBDI ECU: $245

THe Hondata route is ~$50 less, and even if it comes out to be a little more, it's like getting a better deal for the same price. That ECU price is how much I paid for my chipped and socketed p72, it'll probably be less if you're looking for a p28.

EDIT: I just read that you have a Skunk2 ECU. If that bumps your redline up enough so that your able to rev high enough to make peak power, a VAFC-2 might be the better route. This isn't the case in my situation, so even with a VAFC, I needed a higher redline.

 

hondata

 

Hondata all the way

 

How hard is it to convert from obd 2 to obd 1?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BME1986 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How hard is it to convert from obd 2 to obd 1?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very simple. A matter of getting an OBDI ECU and a conversion harness.

 

why spend money twice,do yourself a favor buy a hondata