I have a friend that works at a machine shop... and so it only makes sense to have him make me stuff.

Check it out. 5 1/8" ports and 1 1/4" port. It was originally brushed aluminum, but we decided it would look cool polished. Some pics are polished, some aren't... it's not quite done yet. Let me know what you think. Total cost to me so far: $0.00.







Click here for full size pics.

Bling!!

 

think you used a big enough block?


Good job on the diy, though. looks good

 

total length is only like 3" or so... making a bracket tomorrow to mount it with the two studs that hold the injector wires on top of the manifold/fuel rail.

 

Nice work!

 

looks good . post a pic of it after you've got it mounted.

 

i wouldnt use it unless those are tapered threads, not a bolt thread, you cannot use a tap set, look at the taper on the fittings, use an O-ring and sealant for any fittings that go in there.

 

I have on in FI classifieds like yours in anodized blue, not home made though. have you checked that it is taper thread????

 

looks good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rtype11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt use it unless those are tapered threads, not a bolt thread, you cannot use a tap set, look at the taper on the fittings, use an O-ring and sealant for any fittings that go in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Threads are tapered, and it's not home-made. It was made at a machine shop that regularly makes parts for Raytheon, Honeywell, and sometimes directly for the government. It says in the first sentance of the first post that it was made at a machine shop...

It's no POS.

 

you can get taps for tapered threads, i have them at work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can get taps for tapered threads, i have them at work</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm almost positive that the threads were made with a tap, but either way they are definatley tapered. Looks like he's just trying to sell his manifold.

 

nothing wrong with that i guess, looks good

 

u can get tapered taps, wtf u smoking..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u can get tapered taps, wtf u smoking..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

no ****....obviously this guy has never been to a hardware store...


BTW: Nice looking vacuum mani...

 

We have a machinesho at the airbase, can use a pipe thread tap that is tapered alowing brass fittings so seal via thread, Ill get a pic for ya.

 

Ill find a host for the pics i just took of a tap i have here. Maybe im confused would not be the first time. But im talking about using a pipe thread tap. Even in store purchased pipe thread taps they are tapered, Not like a normal bolt tap. This is cause the taper is what causing the sealing efect on the brass fittinggs used with a pipe thread setup, Same reasons pipe hreaded fittings do not need any tefflon tape of external sealer. I just miked a tap out and yes it has a taper, just as the brass barb fitting i have that matches it. now if the tap is ran to far in yes the hole will be as big as the bigest part of that tap, but thats why you do go in all the way. This is the wa i was trained to do it by the USAF, and it works on our nuke tow tractors and everything else. But maybe we are talking about diffrent things here. Are we on the same page, or am i missing something? thanks Oh lets keep this positive if posable.

 

Looks good forget the haters!

 

It is pretty bad when people are hating on a vacuum manifold and the type of threads it uses. for DIY

 

looks damn good man, ill buy one from a if you wanna sell any, oh heres sites for tapered taps.
http://www.emuge.com/taps/un8tapered.html
http://www.industrialtool.com/morse25.html
And heres some info on how they work
http://www.cutting-tool-supply...F.htm

 

gone a couple of days and look what goes on in this thread - freakin mob, I am looking out for your best interests whether you know it or not, based on your post that the vac block was made in a machine shop does not mean that it was made properly, or if you did use parallel thread I suggested fittings with o-rings be used like with on Paxton/Aeromotive or similar FPR fuel fittings. I feel like **** that after trying to watch out for you so that you dont run a part that could lead to your motor blowing that you all personally attack me. Now for the ringer - I am a metallurgist "all metal process engineer "by profession and just because you tell me that this machine shop produces for Raytheon / Honeywell etc. does not mean it is manufactured correctly, especially since I spend most of my time auditing tier 1/2/3 suppliers of this sort for poor production technique, inadequate quality controll/sampling and especaily material selection blunders. here one I fixed that I can discuss since the lawsuit against Honeywell has been dropped - part application industrial / commercial furnace temp controll - mechanical cam via bimetal spring is used for furnace regulation.

the bimetal spring is in constant contact with the furnace heat stream -average 150degreesC the biemetal spring is affixed to 409 Stainless round bar at one end by a feable attempt to (cant say weld here) bond 2 totally dissimilar metals using resistance welding (very poor setup to boot)- what you end up with is the bimetal melting into the imperfections of the bar surface. result: this part was designed by honeywell as a replacement part with an indefinate (read long) service life - after a very short period of time (days to months) the spring will separate from the 409 bar which is the cam for the furnace control --- the furnace heats uncontrolled, untill there is a failure in one or more of its related systems. there were of course signed revised specs approved by all levels of engineering, maufacturing, the machine shop for the bars and welding within honeywell. I took me all of 5 minutes to redesign the system on a napkin using cheaper more dependant materials and reduce overall costs and prod time. oh yeah reduction of loss of property and life also.

and I dont hijack threads to sell anything. boo hiss all of you

 

Well, my posts weren't designed to personally attack you, I'm sorry if you feel like they were. Your second post mainly consisted of you telling the world that you had a manifold like mine for sale, and the first sounded like it was attacking my manifold (whether you meant it or not)... that's why I said you were just trying to sell yours.

I must know something though, what's with your "you cannot use a tap set" comment? Are we misunderstanding you? We re-tapped the holes after it got welded to the bracket... and definitely used a pipe tap.

 

if I had a scanner I could show you why you cannot use sttandard bolt taps, maybe ill bug someone to scan the stuff for me, I can actually also demonstrate to people how many threads to turn into any npt bspt hole, this will keep alot of people from overtightening and cracking for example their oil pressure sender fitting on the block.

 

i think everyone know this, why would you use a standard bolt thread? A pipe is the way too go. Oh well i think everyone gets the point here, great part you made here, sell me one.

 

Wish I could sell you one, this is a one off deal as there's not enough time to make more.

Your best bet is to make friends with someone at a machine shop.

 

Hey I used 1/4, and 1/8 NPT (National Pipe Thread) Taps. All pipe threads are tapered. That is the whole point of a pipe thread to seal.