A pictorial of my car & its X-mas presents [broadband highly recommended]
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From: Bloomington, IN, USA
Present #1: The snow came and went, but there'll be more coming.

Present #2: Remote oil filter kit & Accusump & Oil Cooler
I'm still waiting on a Setrab oil cooler that I might be able to get for a good price in exchange for helping to develop a kit for Honda's and Acura's.


I ditched the entire AC system and windshield washer pump/reservoir to make room for the remote filter and Accusump.
Present #3: Gauges
I also took out the cruise control box so that I could use the hole for gauge wiring.


EGT boss installation:




I also took off the header wrap b/c it was starting to form a hint of oxidation. It had been on there for a month. I guess I'll be going with a adhesive-backed heat reflective sheet.

Present #4: JDM Honda Oil Filler Cap
I kinda don't like it b/c it's really plastic with a chrome cover on top. It's easier to loosen than my DC Sports oil cap tho.

Present #5: Intake pipe
Uses a couple of Turbohoses couplers and a cheap 3" aluminum intake arm from Top Speed in Dallas ($35 - **** using a Comptech arm).

Present #6: PCV E-vac kit
It'll get a PCV valve off the valve cover and routed to the header collector

Present #7: Skunk2 Stage 1 cams
Skunk2 IN on the right vs. CTR IN on the left.

The car's getting other presents too, like a Hytech 2.5" muffler and test pipe, race pipe w/ down-turn, Hondata, and a wideband soon.
Other random stuff I didn't get to show you guys before:
5/8" Tee to split the heater hose line and circumvent the intake manifold coolant lines.

Broke my first header bracket:

My odd cam phasing w/ the motor at TDC. Some of you may have noticed it on your cars as well when doing the timing belt.


Present #2: Remote oil filter kit & Accusump & Oil Cooler
I'm still waiting on a Setrab oil cooler that I might be able to get for a good price in exchange for helping to develop a kit for Honda's and Acura's.


I ditched the entire AC system and windshield washer pump/reservoir to make room for the remote filter and Accusump.
Present #3: Gauges
I also took out the cruise control box so that I could use the hole for gauge wiring.


EGT boss installation:




I also took off the header wrap b/c it was starting to form a hint of oxidation. It had been on there for a month. I guess I'll be going with a adhesive-backed heat reflective sheet.

Present #4: JDM Honda Oil Filler Cap
I kinda don't like it b/c it's really plastic with a chrome cover on top. It's easier to loosen than my DC Sports oil cap tho.

Present #5: Intake pipe
Uses a couple of Turbohoses couplers and a cheap 3" aluminum intake arm from Top Speed in Dallas ($35 - **** using a Comptech arm).

Present #6: PCV E-vac kit
It'll get a PCV valve off the valve cover and routed to the header collector

Present #7: Skunk2 Stage 1 cams
Skunk2 IN on the right vs. CTR IN on the left.

The car's getting other presents too, like a Hytech 2.5" muffler and test pipe, race pipe w/ down-turn, Hondata, and a wideband soon.
Other random stuff I didn't get to show you guys before:
5/8" Tee to split the heater hose line and circumvent the intake manifold coolant lines.

Broke my first header bracket:

My odd cam phasing w/ the motor at TDC. Some of you may have noticed it on your cars as well when doing the timing belt.

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From: Bloomington, IN, USA
It will a little, but with exhaust gas velocities being so high, I doubt it'll care much.
These days, it always seems like a rush trying to get everything done to the car in a timely manner and getting it done right so I can have it for work or days when the weather is actually good for driving.
I really need to get a wideband so I can at least work on the street tune a little. The oil reaks of gasoline now that he 310cc's are in. It bogs quite a bit after VTEC engages and gets all pissy when throttling on and off too quickly.
These days, it always seems like a rush trying to get everything done to the car in a timely manner and getting it done right so I can have it for work or days when the weather is actually good for driving.
I really need to get a wideband so I can at least work on the street tune a little. The oil reaks of gasoline now that he 310cc's are in. It bogs quite a bit after VTEC engages and gets all pissy when throttling on and off too quickly.
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Thread Starter
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From: Bloomington, IN, USA
Gauges are finished for the most part. I might have to go back and get some more clamps to re-route the wiring, but it's at a point where I can drive around with the car half apart.

The relays I used for the IGN/constant 12V+bat and parking/gauge cluster light. They're the best relays I could get for automotive apps b/c the relays are interchangeable without having to unplug all the disconnects that other relays use. Idea courtesy of FastSS who does more car audio than I do.
I need a couple more of these to route and secure other parts of the gauge harnesses.

Bosses for wideband and PCV e-vac.


I used one of the spare securing zip ties from my OEM fog light kit to secure the gauge sending unit harness to a hole in the shock tower where the windshield washer lines were mounted.

I'll get a shot with the lights on.

Other FYI:
Tap 12AWG blk/ylw wire for IGN and 22AWG red/blk wire for the parking light. You can find both coming off the integrated control unit/fuse box (large panel with all the fuses and harnesses running into it) after removing the lower, driver-side bezel and aluminum cross-member.
I've still gotta do the Accusump and Hondata stuff, as well as a few other little things here and there.

The relays I used for the IGN/constant 12V+bat and parking/gauge cluster light. They're the best relays I could get for automotive apps b/c the relays are interchangeable without having to unplug all the disconnects that other relays use. Idea courtesy of FastSS who does more car audio than I do.
I need a couple more of these to route and secure other parts of the gauge harnesses.

Bosses for wideband and PCV e-vac.


I used one of the spare securing zip ties from my OEM fog light kit to secure the gauge sending unit harness to a hole in the shock tower where the windshield washer lines were mounted.

I'll get a shot with the lights on.

Other FYI:
Tap 12AWG blk/ylw wire for IGN and 22AWG red/blk wire for the parking light. You can find both coming off the integrated control unit/fuse box (large panel with all the fuses and harnesses running into it) after removing the lower, driver-side bezel and aluminum cross-member.
I've still gotta do the Accusump and Hondata stuff, as well as a few other little things here and there.
your cam timing looks like it would be perfect like it was when you bought the car if the cam gears were set at 0. i could be wrong but it looks like they are off a little because you have adjusted them.
nice mods, i'd be interested to learn more on the accusump.... i guess it's time to SEARCH.
can you explain the benefit of the PCV valve going to your collector? Why not just use a catch can if you have a lot of fluids rushing out of your valve cover? wouldn't that be better than burning oil in the exhaust piping? i don't know much about that so if you could fill me in, i'd appreciate it.
otherside, everything looks great. very clean installation of everything....
-Erik
nice mods, i'd be interested to learn more on the accusump.... i guess it's time to SEARCH.
can you explain the benefit of the PCV valve going to your collector? Why not just use a catch can if you have a lot of fluids rushing out of your valve cover? wouldn't that be better than burning oil in the exhaust piping? i don't know much about that so if you could fill me in, i'd appreciate it.
otherside, everything looks great. very clean installation of everything....
-Erik
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Adjusting the cam gears doesn't affect the marks b/c when you adjust the cam gears, you're not really adjusting the cam gears....you're turning the camshaft (inner part of the gear) inside of the cam gears. It won't affect the phasing on the outer ring.
The PCV e-vac is gonna be tapped out of the valve cover and a PCV valve with either a 3/8" or 5/8" nipple will be threaded in. I'm still not sure if a coolant hose will handle the heat off the collector even if it's separated a couple of inches out and by two fittings.
About why I'm using the PCV e-vac:
Even if you do have a catch can, some of the oil vapor still makes it back into the intake manifold. If you dump it out into the exhaust then you don't have to worry about it, but it's not emissions legal, so it's only gonna get used on the racetrack (disclaimer).
Some people just run an atmospheric vent, but if you don't have vacuum drawing the crankcase vapor out, it's not as beneficial. It'll keep the engine seals intact, but you won't be pushing anything out until the pressure exceeds a certain amount. Until the crankcase pressure reaches that threshold, the vapor and the pressure it induces just sits inside the crankcase. I'm still uncertain of the benefits, but I've heard people mention: better ring sealing (this in itself reduces crankcase vapor pressure), reduced windage losses, and less oil contamination. Reducing intake charge pollution is an obvious one, especially if the PCV evacuation system allows you to completely forego crankcase vapor recycling.
There's also the option of using an electric vacuum pump or switching to a dry-sump oiling system. However, you don't wanna switch to a dry-sump system solely for the benefit of relieving blow-by and crankcase pressure. They're so expensive and difficult to mount on non-race duty-only engines, it's assinine to try and do so when you can't purposefully use all the benefits. That leaves using an electric vacuum pump as the most viable option. I'll probably put together a kit, install it, use it, measure the vacuum it pulls, and then sell it if it's a useful item to somebody else.
The PCV e-vac is gonna be tapped out of the valve cover and a PCV valve with either a 3/8" or 5/8" nipple will be threaded in. I'm still not sure if a coolant hose will handle the heat off the collector even if it's separated a couple of inches out and by two fittings.
About why I'm using the PCV e-vac:
Even if you do have a catch can, some of the oil vapor still makes it back into the intake manifold. If you dump it out into the exhaust then you don't have to worry about it, but it's not emissions legal, so it's only gonna get used on the racetrack (disclaimer).
Some people just run an atmospheric vent, but if you don't have vacuum drawing the crankcase vapor out, it's not as beneficial. It'll keep the engine seals intact, but you won't be pushing anything out until the pressure exceeds a certain amount. Until the crankcase pressure reaches that threshold, the vapor and the pressure it induces just sits inside the crankcase. I'm still uncertain of the benefits, but I've heard people mention: better ring sealing (this in itself reduces crankcase vapor pressure), reduced windage losses, and less oil contamination. Reducing intake charge pollution is an obvious one, especially if the PCV evacuation system allows you to completely forego crankcase vapor recycling.
There's also the option of using an electric vacuum pump or switching to a dry-sump oiling system. However, you don't wanna switch to a dry-sump system solely for the benefit of relieving blow-by and crankcase pressure. They're so expensive and difficult to mount on non-race duty-only engines, it's assinine to try and do so when you can't purposefully use all the benefits. That leaves using an electric vacuum pump as the most viable option. I'll probably put together a kit, install it, use it, measure the vacuum it pulls, and then sell it if it's a useful item to somebody else.
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From: Bloomington, IN, USA
BTW, did I mention that I pulled an all-nighter doing the gauges? My body's never been so sore before even tho I've done it before working on cars and studying. I must be getting old.
Where's my walking stick?
Thanks for viewing young whipperschnappers.
Where's my walking stick?Thanks for viewing young whipperschnappers.
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