stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock!
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From: Wilmington, NC, US
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (neo1z)
more ways to make better power, but if you've done everything else bolt-on this would be one of the last things to get.
-Erik <--- who's rockin a CTR crank pulley and AEM Alt pulley... no ps no a/c
-Erik <--- who's rockin a CTR crank pulley and AEM Alt pulley... no ps no a/c
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From: Central Maine area, ME, USA
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (Erik_Pb_Foot)
If your starving for a little extra power then just remove your power steering. It'll probably give you more then the pully's. Plus you'll feel the road better without PS.
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From: Wilmington, NC, US
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (patdemps)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patdemps »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your starving for a little extra power then just remove your power steering. It'll probably give you more then the pully's. Plus you'll feel the road better without PS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (Erik_Pb_Foot)
dont have first hand experience, but i hear they make your accessories work harder. the one pulley that would net the most gain would be the crank pulley, and they can lead to improper engine wear due to poor balance at high rpm
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From: assville, MI, USA
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (blackeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and they can lead to improper engine wear due to poor balance at high rpm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, although some companies do sell crank pulleys with harmonic dampeners. Fluidyne, ATE, etc.
Yup, although some companies do sell crank pulleys with harmonic dampeners. Fluidyne, ATE, etc.
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From: assville, MI, USA
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (Erik_Pb_Foot)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik_Pb_Foot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no reason to even look at aftermarket.... oem honda CTR crank pulley.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
which does not have a pulse dampener.
which does not have a pulse dampener.
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Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (StyleTEG)
what in the crap is that?
i dunno much about this aspect of it but if honda has their name on it i trust it under my hood. maybe i'm too trusting... oh well.
i dunno much about this aspect of it but if honda has their name on it i trust it under my hood. maybe i'm too trusting... oh well.
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From: assville, MI, USA
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (Erik_Pb_Foot)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik_Pb_Foot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what in the crap is that?
i dunno much about this aspect of it but if honda has their name on it i trust it under my hood. maybe i'm too trusting... oh well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You really should look into it, just because it comes in a honda bag doesn't mean its great for your perticular engine.
http://www.theoldone.com/archi...r.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Let me begin by saying that we have always called the pulley on the accessory drive end on the Honda cranks Harmonic Balancers. People never seemed to understand what we were talking about and so the word "pulley" was frequently used to avoid confusion. If you look carefully at a Honda "pulley", you'll find that it's not a single piece of metal. Typically, there's a nodular iron or steel hub and another "ring" of iron or steel surrounding it containing the belt grooves. The two parts are joined by a rubber layer, which is highly compressed and sandwiched between them. Why rubber? If you notice, many four cylinder engines over the years have used counter rotating shafts to help make the engine "feel" smoother. Reciprocating internal combustion engines and especially in-line four cylinder versions, all produce shock pulses, which are very apparent to the occupants of the car. Every engine produces a shock pulse each time an individual cylinder fires. So, in the case of the four cylinder variety, there are four large individual pulses for each 720 degrees of crank rotation. Each time there's a pulse, it causes the internal components to do a rapid acceleration-deceleration event. When you consider the mass of all the internal components and visualize all these parts stopping and starting during their reciprocating and rotating motions, the additional stress "spikes" tend to make it all the more reason for one to wonder how any of it can work for any length of time. The harmonic balancer is made with the rubber coupling so that, when the individual "spikes" occur, the inner portion may move with the crank, but the rubber connected outer ring's mass helps prevent the hub and crank from going as far or as fast during the spikes or pulses. Remember that the outer part had considerable mass, so it tends to want to stay in motion at the speed that it's traveling and that's why it can prevent excessive harsh motion by the crank and other internal parts. To put it simply, the harmonic balancer is a shock absorber for the engine and thus prevents the individual pulses from destroying everything in the engine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dunno much about this aspect of it but if honda has their name on it i trust it under my hood. maybe i'm too trusting... oh well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You really should look into it, just because it comes in a honda bag doesn't mean its great for your perticular engine.
http://www.theoldone.com/archi...r.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Let me begin by saying that we have always called the pulley on the accessory drive end on the Honda cranks Harmonic Balancers. People never seemed to understand what we were talking about and so the word "pulley" was frequently used to avoid confusion. If you look carefully at a Honda "pulley", you'll find that it's not a single piece of metal. Typically, there's a nodular iron or steel hub and another "ring" of iron or steel surrounding it containing the belt grooves. The two parts are joined by a rubber layer, which is highly compressed and sandwiched between them. Why rubber? If you notice, many four cylinder engines over the years have used counter rotating shafts to help make the engine "feel" smoother. Reciprocating internal combustion engines and especially in-line four cylinder versions, all produce shock pulses, which are very apparent to the occupants of the car. Every engine produces a shock pulse each time an individual cylinder fires. So, in the case of the four cylinder variety, there are four large individual pulses for each 720 degrees of crank rotation. Each time there's a pulse, it causes the internal components to do a rapid acceleration-deceleration event. When you consider the mass of all the internal components and visualize all these parts stopping and starting during their reciprocating and rotating motions, the additional stress "spikes" tend to make it all the more reason for one to wonder how any of it can work for any length of time. The harmonic balancer is made with the rubber coupling so that, when the individual "spikes" occur, the inner portion may move with the crank, but the rubber connected outer ring's mass helps prevent the hub and crank from going as far or as fast during the spikes or pulses. Remember that the outer part had considerable mass, so it tends to want to stay in motion at the speed that it's traveling and that's why it can prevent excessive harsh motion by the crank and other internal parts. To put it simply, the harmonic balancer is a shock absorber for the engine and thus prevents the individual pulses from destroying everything in the engine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: redondo beach/irvine, ca, usa
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (patdemps)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patdemps »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your starving for a little extra power then just remove your power steering. It'll probably give you more then the pully's. Plus you'll feel the road better without PS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: Detroit City, MI, Planet Rock
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (sa21199)
I don't know much about pulleys, but I do know that my friend had an AEM one and we think it totally fucked with his alternator. One day on the way home from the track, his battery light went on and his alternator just crapped out on him. We're thinking it's the pulley because when we put a stock one back on with a new alternator, everything worked fine.
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From: Detroit City, MI, Planet Rock
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (Erik_Pb_Foot)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik_Pb_Foot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alternators go bad over time... the pull wouldn't cause premature failure since all it does is slow it down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
...his car had 17k miles on it.
...his car had 17k miles on it.
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From: Wilmington, NC, US
Re: stupid poll! AEM Tru time pulley or Stock! (alfaaay)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alfaaay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...his car had 17k miles on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not an alternator pro but i still find it hard to believe that underdriving an alternator would have such an effect. my alternator had 100k miles on it when i put the underdrive pulley on. i had a small stereo with an infinity basslink pulling a small amount of power. 35k miles later when the car was temporarily taken off the road the alternator was still functioning as it was supposed to. maybe i got lucky and your friend was unlucky, i dunno....
...his car had 17k miles on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not an alternator pro but i still find it hard to believe that underdriving an alternator would have such an effect. my alternator had 100k miles on it when i put the underdrive pulley on. i had a small stereo with an infinity basslink pulling a small amount of power. 35k miles later when the car was temporarily taken off the road the alternator was still functioning as it was supposed to. maybe i got lucky and your friend was unlucky, i dunno....