Ok, so buy-out on #1013 is going to be $15,591, including taxes. I am nearing the end of my 39-month lease and I'd like to keep the car.

It's got around 33,000 miles on it. Given that I've seen good-condition 97s and 98s going for around this much, I think this is a pretty good price, especially, as a friend pointed out, because I know every inch of the car's history.

If you all were in my shoes, would you buy the thing? I am in a pretty unique situation - if I don't buy this one right now, I won't be able to get another one for almost a year. Don't ask, it's complicated.

Also, keep in mind that #1013 needs about $1K in paint work in order for the dealer to not throw a hissy fit when I turn it back in.

Opinions?

 

I'd say go for it, this is your only chance to buy a used car and know its history 100%.

Edit: That also seems like a really fair price.

 

Did you negotiate the sale price of the car Before you leased?

I'm guessing since you just came to the residual value now and that you've been working on this for a bit the answer is no. I'm just curious.

And the biggest deciding factor Very Much Despite ending the lease and turning over the keys and not being able to get another for awhile, Honestly Ross, since the accident does it handle as well as it used to or at least as well as you'd like?

Personally, if it wasn't exactly perfect in the handling department, I'd give it back and search for another newer one with even less miles. But, I'm basing this on it handling/feeling it's optimum.

Besides, that the residual value seems worth the car itself, miles and condition especially since you know Exactly what it's been through and where it's been and how you've used and misused it.

If you are satisfied then I don't see it as a bad purchase.

Now, talk financing. Does your lease provide for the buyback financing based upon rates when you leased origionally? Point here, obviously get the lowest finance rate as possible now.

Good luck, Ross and hope you keep it so we have a chance to meet again soon on the track.

Anton

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you negotiate the sale price of the car Before you leased?
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Yes. It just took me a while to locate it and deal with American Honda Finance, since I have lost my account number.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly Ross, since the accident does it handle as well as it used to or at least as well as you'd like?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I really don't have any problems with it. I did a few track days before the accident, but it was so long ago that I honestly can't remember what it felt like then. A lot was different, too - I had stock tires and brakes at all 3 of the track events I did before the crash.

Corey Jacobs, Bryan Sprinkler, George Knighton, Frank Lin, Matt (Dropspeed) - all of these guys have driven my car, some of them pretty aggressively. They all have a good bit of ITR experience under their belt, and none of them noticed a problem. Frank even commented on how stable the car felt, as he rolled everyone in sight.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good luck, Ross and hope you keep it so we have a chance to meet again soon on the track. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Likewise

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ross R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes. It just took me a while to locate it and deal with American Honda Finance, since I have lost my account number.

I really don't have any problems with it. I did a few track days before the accident, but it was so long ago that I honestly can't remember what it felt like then. A lot was different, too - I had stock tires and brakes at all 3 of the track events I did before the crash.

Corey Jacobs, Bryan Sprinkler, George Knighton, Frank Lin, Matt (Dropspeed) - all of these guys have driven my car, some of them pretty aggressively. They all have a good bit of ITR experience under their belt, and none of them noticed a problem. Frank even commented on how stable the car felt, as he rolled everyone in sight.

Likewise </TD></TR></TABLE>


In that case, I can't see a reason Not to buy it.

Thanks BTW, looks like I may make it to VIR in 04, for certain I'll try for that and Summit. You guys should really try to get up to Watkin's Glen. I know it's a trip but, it's my favorite by far. Ask Willard, or Ed (Zyg) even.

Best of luck & Happy Holiday's.

 

Keep it. Knowing where your car has been is pretty valuable.

$1k for paint? I know you can invest that somewhere else than some damn clearcoat.

 

I'd like to point out something that you're probably aware of, Ross, but may be missed by others:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ross R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, so buy-out on #1013 is going to be $15,591, including taxes.
.
.
.Also, keep in mind that #1013 needs about $1K in paint work in order for the dealer to not throw a hissy fit when I turn it back in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

IOW, you can pay $15,591 to buy the car, or pay $1,000 when you turn it in. This means that the car is actually going to cost you around $14,591 more to buy, not $15,591. Of course, at that price, it will still need the paint work... but that's the price you should be focusing on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrewCityR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$1k for paint? I know you can invest that somewhere else than some damn clearcoat. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think you understand.

Remember how I used to joke about just how dirty a car would have to get before the aerodynamics and top speed were affected?

Ross's car is at that point.

 

If the $1K was for a car wash, then that's a mighty expensive car wash (and I withdraw my previous comment)...

 

Ross, keep the car! JMHO

Sometimes there are very few things in life that can really make you happy.
By the same token (hmmm ... hehe), sometimes those same things can be such a PITA. Believe me, I've had my share with #236. But that's part of that "special relationship". LOL!

After all and like you said, you "know" the car pretty much inside and out, have people in the area to help you out with it mechanically, as well as a great and substantial support system and knowledge base here at H-T. Ed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd like to point out something that you're probably aware of, Ross, but may be missed by others:

IOW, you can pay $15,591 to buy the car, or pay $1,000 when you turn it in. This means that the car is actually going to cost you around $14,591 more to buy, not $15,591. Of course, at that price, it will still need the paint work... but that's the price you should be focusing on.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know. If he really wanted to turn it in, they might not charge him for the paint and just consider it normal wear and tear. Depending on how bad it is.

And keep the car Ross. Just gimme the wing.

 

My buyout is going to be about $14,500, after subtracting my final 5 months of payments from the amount I was given by AHFC the other day. Even though I've had an accident and the prevailing paint job is about 8.5/10, I'm keeping it.

Chris - who says 'keep it' to Ross.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't know. If he really wanted to turn it in, they might not charge him for the paint and just consider it normal wear and tear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Having seen the car just yesterday, all I can say is.... I don't think so.

 

No way, get a new car, TYPE R needs to go to a new home, time to move on, there are tons of new options out there even though the R is a beautiful car I am sure you won't miss it once your in your new car (what ever you decide to get.)

MOVE ON its not worth it

my 2 Cents

 

Buy it.

IF you have to ask,, that only means your in love.

 

besides what you have mentiond, consider this option:

personally i would have considered this if cause its possible to save some good $$$$

for 14K.. or at best for way under 14K you could put together your own car.. buy a shell from junkyard and work from there.. you coudl probably put tother new block/head/transmission for that price.. or even swap k20 in there - - looks like these will have more support in the future, maybe years from now it will be more common option &lt;-- having swaps and shells will require more work and downtime, but if succesful - you might end up happy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ross's car is at that point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You make it sound like he drives a PY cab-over-engine Kenworth.

 

just buy it, that's what i did when my lease was over.

 

Just buy your car... You've test driven it long enough.. and welcome to the family!

 

I am not sure how they work it but if it works out the way I think it might then you could get the 4.9% Acura is running on all their certafied used cars and get a very low monthly payment. Again I am not sure how the end of a lease works but it is a nice thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRICKHEAD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am not sure how they work it but if it works out the way I think it might then you could get the 4.9% Acura is running on all their certafied used cars and get a very low monthly payment. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very Good idea, which I was going to suggest myself!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrewCityR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You make it sound like he drives a PY cab-over-engine Kenworth. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Makes about the same amount of noise, yes.

 

I think you are screwed... If you wanted to purchase the car you should have done it in the beginning..

 

Buy It

 

You can't let the dealer have it.