Ok. Well I told myself that would sit down and write a quick review for you guys on the clutch install I did this last weekend. First of all I want to say thanks to everyone who gave advice prior to the install and to ImACracker for having air tools and a clutch job already under his belt. Also a big thumbs up to WiredSpeed for the AWESOME price on this clutch as well as the very fast turnaround time and customer service in the picking out of this clutch in the first place.

If you aren't familiar with the clutch, it is a dual diaphragm 3,000 lb pressure plate and a six puck non spring centered clutch disk. When the package arrived I was beside myself with excitement. Everything came earlier then expected (thanks again wiredspeed) and was beautiful. The dual diaphragm clutch is interesting because it has two layers of those tabs on the pressure plate instead of the standard one (don't know the technical name for them). Then it was time for the install.

The install went quite easily with only a couple of little snags mostly involving finding out that the person who worked on my car the last time the motor was pulled stripped several bolts and even left a few out (rear motor mount with no bolt? wtf?). After about 7 hours the clutch was in and bled and it was time to test it out. While bleeding the clutch I could definitely feel a pedal difference between this clutch and the ACT pressure plate I had before.

Well, I put a few miles on it for a break in and began to see what the clutch had in it. Let me just say wow. Thats the only word to describe it. First gear takes a litte finess to get the car started without a little skipping but I'm sure once I drive it for a week I"ll have that all figured out. Other then that, its just amazing. The pedal feel isn't near as heavy really as I expected and takes just a few blocks to get used to. It is a very positive pedal feel and makes you feel very directly in control of the clutch. There is basically no slipping at all. In my 300whp civic, my previous clutch would get a little bark in 2nd gear on the bfg drag radials once they are warm and had a little slip from 3rd gear up. (We found out it was almost down to the rivets!! ) The 2md just grabs like nothing else. 2nd gear has turned into a very strong pulling cloud of smoke if shifted just a little too quickly and third gear just hooks and goes. I DEFINITELY reccomend this clutch to anyone in the market for a clutch not only for the awesome price but for the great performance it has. I look forward to putting it on the dyno in January with St00pid to push the car over 400whp and have no reservations about the clutch failing any more. Great Clutch... Great Vendor (Wiredspeed)...just great.. if ya have any questions feel free to PM me about it!

 

Working on your car made me so glad I do all my own work.

 

thats good to know, do you know the hp rating for this clutch?

 

I believe it is rated to 375 lb/ft of torque? Hopefully WiredSpeed can give you the exact specs. My goals are close to 500whp and they reccomended this clutch.

 

This maybe the clutch I have to purchase instead of the Action 2KS one I have now. I'll be over 400whp and probaly 300 lb/ft. I bought the 2KS new from kyle
only having 300whp in mind then plans changed and now I'm worried it may
not be enough.

 

i just ordered the same clutch for my teg. i can't wait.
anyone know the proper break-in period for this clutch?

 

lol i hope you broke in this sucker before you did all of this, cause there's a good amount of miles of in town driving first before you go crazy on it.

 

I was told you didn't have to break the clutch in because it was a 6puck. I have the same clutch-- but I didn't give it much more than 100miles before I got on it. ACT says their puck clutches don't need break-in either. Oh well. but that clutch does grab AMAZINGLY.

 

I have a 2MD aswell..the best money I ever spent..works great and never bitchs at me like my act did.. to action and the people that use them and belive in them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integranator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told you didn't have to break the clutch in because it was a 6puck. I have the same clutch-- but I didn't give it much more than 100miles before I got on it. ACT says their puck clutches don't need break-in either. Oh well. but that clutch does grab AMAZINGLY.</TD></TR></TABLE>

just was trying to look out for the guy, didn't know about the non-break in period, that's even better. its the worse part of a new puck.

 

so what are the different type of Action clutches and the hp rating for each of them ?

 

Not really a breakin on a pucked clutch. I believe its because the clutch is actually harder then the pressure plate and flywheel. I've heard anywhere from 20 miles to 100 is a good amount of break in. I leaned towards the shorter of the two

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadtrum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

just was trying to look out for the guy, didn't know about the non-break in period, that's even better. its the worse part of a new puck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You guys are playing with fire I called Alex at action (owner) and he told me that all action clutches with the exception of the kevlar has to be broke in for 500 miles kevlar calls for 1,000 miles he also added that downshifting is a no no on any clutch he explains that your putting to much stress on the clutch and thats why most cluthes fail early

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikes01GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This maybe the clutch I have to purchase instead of the Action 2KS one I have now. I'll be over 400whp and probaly 300 lb/ft. I bought the 2KS new from kyle
only having 300whp in mind then plans changed and now I'm worried it may
not be enough. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Mike
I'll trade with you I just ordered a clutch and Kyle sent me the wrong one a 2md I wanted a 2ms but the 2ks will work fine let me know yours must be brand new uninstallled i can send pics let me know all we have to do is trade clutches pp are the same



Modified by Barney Ruble at 5:30 AM 12/19/2003

 

Barney Mine is brand new sitting here in the box not installed....That would be great and not as much hassle. I'll IM you and try to work it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedsiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats good to know, do you know the hp rating for this clutch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Torque is all that matters for clutches, I think I have seen Rocket post that it is good for up to 450 ft/lbs... Something far beyond my goals but it has served me well in the past year, its about time to order a new 2MD from WiredSpeed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Barney Ruble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he also added that downshifting is a no no on any clutch he explains that your putting to much stress on the clutch and thats why most cluthes fail early </TD></TR></TABLE>

What if you rev match? Would this solve the problem of added stress?

 

congrats on the clutch...quick question though..u do guys think a dual-diaphram clutch is needed on a gsr putting down about 250 to the wheels?? I'm in the market for a clutch also!...

 

The way Alex explained it to me was downshifting is bad no matter how you do it especially on the freeway where a lot of battles take place give Alex a call 323-269-6051

 

Barney you still interested in the trade?

 

downshifting is bad? whats the point of the clutch then? every other clutch i know u can downshift with no problems..why not this? so if i were going in 5th gear at 65mph and there was a race, it would be bad for me to downshift to third?

 

Mike after talking with a buddy he convinced me to stick with the 2md

Thanks


Modified by Barney Ruble at 5:30 AM 12/19/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chidoks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">downshifting is bad? whats the point of the clutch then? every other clutch i know u can downshift with no problems..why not this? so if i were going in 5th gear at 65mph and there was a race, it would be bad for me to downshift to third?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmmm let me see....... YESSSS it would remember this is not my opinion I got this info straight from Alex at Action when you downshift from 5th to 3rd your putting the clutch and pp under a lot of stress 65 in 5th thats something like 3k when you downshift to 3rd it jumps to over 5k all in the matter of secs that alot of stress for any clutch to handle you don't have to take my word for it call Alex and question him about it his number is in one of my earlier post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Barney Ruble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmmmm let me see....... YESSSS it would remember this is not my opinion I got this info straight from Alex at Action when you downshift from 5th to 3rd your putting the clutch and pp under a lot of stress 65 in 5th thats something like 3k when you downshift to 3rd it jumps to over 5k all in the matter of secs that alot of stress for any clutch to handle you don't have to take my word for it call Alex and question him about it his number is in one of my earlier post.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is why you revmatch.

 

no too sure what you mean by rev match please explain ......