On the wired speedlab site it says for the b series. Im not super familur with my h tranny but wont this also work for h series trannies? thanks-pdang

 

Just out of curiosity, why would you want a hydraulic release bearing? Cable is sooooo much better, since you are able to control when the clutch releases. I don't think you can do that with a Hydro unit.

 

I know that the a prelude is cable shifted. but is a hydraulic tranny, if that helps any.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NFJohn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just out of curiosity, why would you want a hydraulic release bearing? Cable is sooooo much better, since you are able to control when the clutch releases. I don't think you can do that with a Hydro unit.
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TOOOONS of reasons hydro trans is better...
You have no control with a cable at all. With a hydro, you can use line locks (no more having to hold the pedal at the line) , change pressures at which the clutch releases...make the car ride the clutch in first gear through selenoids vs. having to ride the clutch ur self (takes out user error) and the stretch of the cable just plain out sucks...Only problem with this on a race car is it makes it harder the change the trans...but you can run quick dissconects to aid that.

 

Why would you use a line lock on the clutch??? I guess riding the clutch is taking the place of having a clutch that won't lock up too soon I guess. someone needs to come up with a lock-up clutch for Honda's so people can get rid of solenoids and timers to engage their clutches.. Too much **** there to go wrong.

 

You would use a line lock so you dont have to hold the clutch at the line. If you put a line clock on it...all you have to do is hit a button and it engages the clutch.

 

I think you would have to press the clutch intially to build line pressure , then press the line lock. Might be wrong though.

 

anyone running a line lock on the clutch like you guys describe?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littlebluecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you would have to press the clutch intially to build line pressure , then press the line lock. Might be wrong though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Jason, you of course would have to press the clutch in first to get pressure...just like how you have to press the brake first on a linelock.

There are people using setups in the proclass like this...im not gonna name them and what they are doing cause its secret stuff...

 

It's a good idea, but seems like a line lock on the clutch line would be hell on axles and diff, rather than just loading the clutch a little off the line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a good idea, but seems like a line lock on the clutch line would be hell on axles and diff, rather than just loading the clutch a little off the line.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it is very hard on these...thats why some cars have these problems too with upgraded parts...but it works really well when it does work.

 

Kenskustomchassis.com sells the clutch line lock kit. Im gonna run one on the car. Ask chasis guru on here about it.-pdang

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninesecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes, it is very hard on these...thats why some cars have these problems too with upgraded parts...but it works really well when it does work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

too say it works really well when it does work, is like saying stock cranks work really well, as long as they don't break. wouldn't it be better to find something that worked all the time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NFJohn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

too say it works really well when it does work, is like saying stock cranks work really well, as long as they don't break. wouldn't it be better to find something that worked all the time
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John, the line lock works 100 percent of the time. If you can find a better trans...thats cool. Thats like telling Shaun to find a better crank then hes been running since they have snaped last year. Sometimes whats best out there to use doesnt always have the best end result every time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninesecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Jason, you of course would have to press the clutch in first to get pressure...just like how you have to press the brake first on a linelock.

There are people using setups in the proclass like this...im not gonna name them and what they are doing cause its secret stuff...</TD></TR></TABLE> I think I did not finish my sentence or proof read, heheheh. Just seems like a lot to do before you bump all the way in, I am sure it would help cut good lights, hell makes it like a video game.

 

I wasn't trying to be argumentative, honestly. I'm just thinking that since ProStock cars, and just about every car that runs a clutch, run some sort of mechanical clutch release, that running the cable is best. If you run the cable, you are able to set the air gap on the clutch and that will help with reaction times. What I was getting at, when I said it would be better to find somethig that worked all the time, is to push company's to come out with a clutch, so that way you can adjust the clutch to slip out of the hole. And to let you know. We were using stock cranks last year, and that is why they broke so often... let's bang these clutch company's to make us a clutch. Ram has started to, but you are not able to make adjustments to the base, so it is kinda useless.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NFJohn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wasn't trying to be argumentative, honestly. I'm just thinking that since ProStock cars, and just about every car that runs a clutch, run some sort of mechanical clutch release, that running the cable is best. If you run the cable, you are able to set the air gap on the clutch and that will help with reaction times. What I was getting at, when I said it would be better to find somethig that worked all the time, is to push company's to come out with a clutch, so that way you can adjust the clutch to slip out of the hole. And to let you know. We were using stock cranks last year, and that is why they broke so often... let's bang these clutch company's to make us a clutch. Ram has started to, but you are not able to make adjustments to the base, so it is kinda useless.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Jason, I know playa Thats what I hate about talking online, u cant see the smile on my face...hehe...

John, I know...just friendly convo. of course...once again, internet sucks!! But I agree, there has to be better ways and clutchs might be one. But for the price, you can beat it. Shoot, you can even use magnitism to help u with the clutch. Or I guess go to the automatic then u dont have to worry at all...trans lock time.

 

does anyone know a going rate on one of these setups? i ws going to use a regular throwout bearing that you get with ACT clutch kits but its too big for the tilton clutch that i have. so i guess this is gonna be the way i go.

im lazy and dont want to search.

thanks

dave

 

i think the hyrdo release set up goes for 325, its on their web page. but to jump in on this post. Get ready cause i am about to ramble alot of thoughs off. i think tilton went to this seu up because 1. it moves the slave cylinder away from the headers, cause as we all know the OEM honda slave if its gets hot it wont activate properly ( making cable a better route. 2. the tilton unit releases the clutch evenly, and by this i mean it pushes on the clutch cover with equal force all the way around (360 deg). where as the stock unit hydro or cable kinda releases one side of the clutch just before the other side gets released. making this release bearing better than oem or cable for that mater. 3. it looks cool.
4. i think i has a quicker throw kinda like a short shifter. so pedal travel is extreamly reduced.
my 2 cents
on a nother note i have seen ( somewhere) a push button hydro clutch set up, i cant remember who made it, SARD maybe, but it builds the pressure for you, no clutch pedal necessary, just mount the button on the shift ****, good luck putting around the pits with that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fulldragcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SARD maybe, but it builds the pressure for you, no clutch pedal necessary, just mount the button on the shift ****, good luck putting around the pits with that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

5 Zigen makes that I believe....

 

yup thats who.. thanks

 

We just ordered one of those Tilton hydro release setups for a customers street rod project. Very, very nice stuff. If I had the money for an expensive clutch like the tilton twin or carbon then one of their hydro t/o setups would definetly be in the car.

 

To answer bamboo's question. Im sure the only thing you would want to make sure is that the ID of the thowout for H is the same as a B series. Also how far it actuates the t/o. Im not too familiar with the sizing of the H series so I couldnt tell you.

More can be found here:
http://www.tiltonracing.com/dr....html

 

which tilton hydro release bearing adapts the best for a b series?

 

I don't know if it will work with the single disk...they say twin, but who knows.