I'm from the NOVA area, a new shop opened up and is using a dynopack dyno as thier in house dyno. In a local forum they said that their dyno reads lower numbers than dynojet and reads equal numbers to mustang/clayton dynos.

Anyway, I was talking to somebody from the shop and he challenged me to go to any dynojet dyno in the area and get my numbers, then go to his shop and get my cars HP numbers through their dyno. He said that if the numbers on their dyno are higher than the dynojet numbers, he'll pay for the all the runs , but if the numbers are lower, then he dosen't pay.

What do you guys think? I know the dyno is just a tuning tool, and the numbers are only numbers and not times, but this guy swears by this. From your experiences, does dynopack read higher than dynojet?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=700940

here is the guy advertising his shop.

for some reason though he pretends like he dosent work ther or is affiliated with it.

 

lol, i thought that dyno post sounded like an advertisement when i read it the first time.

 

It's Dynapack, with an A, not DynOpack. The Dynapack site has a lot of info. I'm sure Shawn Church, Dynapack owner, will chime in on this thread.

From what I've researched, Dynapacks can read lower or higher than a Dynojet depending on which "mode" you use and how the set up the dyno. There's a "step" mode and a "ramp" mode. With the "step" mode, the RPM's are held at pre-set points/increments. With the "ramp" mode, it would be just like on a Dynojet, a straight acceleration run.

With a Dynapack, you can set a time for a run, unlike a dynojet. That in itself will cause it to read lower or higher. Meaning, they can set it so that it will read higher or lower, whichever they want.

 

The way Shawn uses his DynaPack dyno, it reads about 10 whp higher than a DynoJet dyno on a 200 whp engine. My motor put down around 260 on Shawn's dyno Tuesday, and I only wish that those numbers would be higher on a DynoJet.

 

dynapack reads hub horsepower. dynojet reads wheel horsepower. if all things are equal the dynapack will read "slightly" higher. but as mentioned before, the dynos can be set differently and in many ways can read whatever the owner of the dyno wants......higher or lower.

 

what about the mustang dynos?

 

besides hub reading vs. actual wheel reading, there is also location of the dyno suck as how efficient the environment with enough circulation of oxygen while also the exhaust fumes get exhausted out the building etc.

Alot plays into this role.

I just use the dyno as a tool to see max power/tq I can pull out from the motor and the best timing maps that will work. On the road/track the dyno values are not ideal, but you setup correction factors for fuel, etc. to compensate. But not every customer's car has a wideband to feedback and make necessary corrections, thats where street tuning comes in handy.

Greg

 

I find that my Dynapack usually reads higher, but you can change a lot of variables and make it read more or less. That's why it is soooo important to be consistent. Test the car the same way, every time. What tends to be most important during ramp testing is the rpm/sec ramp rate. Keep that consistent (even if you change rpm range) and your readings will be consistent.

I also find that vs. the Dynojet, the Dynapack is a far more effective tuning tool - or maybe I should say it makes life a _lot_ easier. Because of the ability to hold a specific rpm (and vary load) or hold a load (and vary rpm), you can simulate 98% of the conditions you see in driving. Every single map cell can be tuned with a wideband while remaining on the dyno.

I also find it extremely effective for race cars. We can simulate what a drag car sees in any gear, at any time on the strip. In an ideal situation, we'll actually look at in car video from a pass and mimic the exact rpm range and time spent in gear (e.g. 4th gear, 8000 to 10,500 in 3.6 seconds if that's what the video shows).

The only thing that you have to take into account is that ram-air/fresh air systems do tend to run a little leaner in the real world, as do intercooled setups. But, if you set a nice flat fuel curve on the dyno, you can either run it a little rich to start with (which is safer) or allow the customer to tweak the FPR for the final 1% on the track.

C_A_T

 

Shawn, what is the peak whp and torque the Dynapack can read? Would you buy that system again or is there one that you like better?

 

It depends upon the model you purchase. My particular dyno is good to about 600 whp give or take (its really axle torque limited).

If I were to purchase again, I think I'd definitely go Dynapack, I'd just buy the more expensive model (good to about 1000 hp) to begin with. I really like the elimination of the wheel/tire/alignment variables. A little harder to mount up (but not that bad), but well worth it IMO.

I was also fortunate to buy during a dip in the price range for these units. When I first started looking for dynos, my unit was going for over $50k. When I bought, the price had dropped to $43k. I believe now, because of shipping cost increases from New Zealand, that the price has come back up again. The higher hp unit was over $60k last time I looked and that's alot of additional dough to outlay at this point. I really want to add AWD capability and more power, but it just doesn't fit the business model at this point. Very few people need over 600 hp capacity right now (although the AWD market is booming) and I don't have much additional time anyways.

C_A_T

 

Shaun,

You install the new V2 on your car yet. How do you like it. I know there is a little thing this weekend at Willow is that where you are going?

 

A friend of mine checked on prices of a dynapack not to long ago and with everything that his shop would need was around 70 or 75k (not including shipping). Like you said above i have heard that they are more usefull than a dynojet in tuning due to that fact that you can mimic what is seen under normal or race conditions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C_A_T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I find that my Dynapack usually reads higher, but you can change a lot of variables and make it read more or less. That's why it is soooo important to be consistent. Test the car the same way, every time. What tends to be most important during ramp testing is the rpm/sec ramp rate. Keep that consistent (even if you change rpm range) and your readings will be consistent.

I also find that vs. the Dynojet, the Dynapack is a far more effective tuning tool - or maybe I should say it makes life a _lot_ easier. Because of the ability to hold a specific rpm (and vary load) or hold a load (and vary rpm), you can simulate 98% of the conditions you see in driving. Every single map cell can be tuned with a wideband while remaining on the dyno.

I also find it extremely effective for race cars. We can simulate what a drag car sees in any gear, at any time on the strip. In an ideal situation, we'll actually look at in car video from a pass and mimic the exact rpm range and time spent in gear (e.g. 4th gear, 8000 to 10,500 in 3.6 seconds if that's what the video shows).

The only thing that you have to take into account is that ram-air/fresh air systems do tend to run a little leaner in the real world, as do intercooled setups. But, if you set a nice flat fuel curve on the dyno, you can either run it a little rich to start with (which is safer) or allow the customer to tweak the FPR for the final 1% on the track.

C_A_T</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

so basically, there is no point of taking the guy (above) up on this. He could make the dynapack read lower with one keystroke. C A T, thanks for the info.

 

Couldn't see the post you referenced.

However, the key is to make sure the run conditions don't change. If the test is set up to go from 2000 rpm to 8000 rpm in 12 seconds, that must remain the same for all tests. If the load time is increased, observed power will usually go up. Decrease the load time and power goes down.

C_A_T

 

sounds like someone backing down on their bet

 

i'll still do it, but what is to keep you (or your dyno guy) to change the settings of the dynapak? nothing.

besides I don't want my car to blow after being on your dyno, like a certain other car

 

what about a dyno shoot-out!