im thinking about going b20b next. how fast is it stock? any1 have a stock b20 in a eg hatch??? whats the times for quarter?

whats better b16 or b20?? i have b16 right now. should i go b20?

 

b20 block with a b16 head, while its apart, bump the compression.

 

no vtec. what can u rev a stock motor up to b20b??

 

6k or somthing I think, don't quote me. Its not a high reving engine stock.

 

would revving up to 6k make a fast track time?? what is it running?

 

you can go to 7. just make sure you get a 9.6:1 engine, trust me.

anyway if you have a B16 now buy a b20 block and do up a b20 vtec. or even an LS block (can find for real real cheap) with ctr pistons....

 

i shifted @ 8,000 in the 1-2 shift and about 7500 for the rest of the shifts. stock b20b block. stock head w/ crower 404's and springs/retainers.

 

did you ever dyno that setup or have any track times...

 

you didnt list yout 1/4 mile time though.....

 

i was just responding to the "how high can i shift?" part..........i made 170 hp and 138 tq, to the wheels. it went like 13.00 on slicks. street driven 5th gen hatch. probably weighted 2350 with me in it. it was a waste though. by the time you get the 404's, springs, retainers, you have close to what you'd have in it if you went with a vtec head. i switched to a very mild vtec head set up and made 200 hp and 145 tq. went 6 tenths faster with no other changes to the car. vtec head and aggressive cams are the ONLY way to go when building an all motor street honda. trust me, i've been there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jinxproof99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i switched to a very mild vtec head set up and made 200 hp and 145 tq. </TD></TR></TABLE>

and what would that be?

 

Ive been thinking of slowly building a b20 up.

anyone, feel free to guestimate the numbers on these setups if you know of somthing similar to compare them to.

stock longblock
i/h/e

vs.

stock block
slight p/p on head with ITR springs and ti retainers
EF1 'L21' cams
skunk 2 IM
ITR TB
2 layer headgasket
I/H/E

 

anyone have time for stock b20 in hatch??

is stock pistons from b20 reliable enough to use when going vtec?? i just want something reliable and wont blow. dont want to spend a fortune on it. maybe just stock block and stock b16 head. no more than that. maybe in future built block


Modified by alllgo at 3:50 AM 11/15/2003

 

does anyone even have a stock b20 in a hatch or anything besides crv. i just want to know the time its can run

 

I have a b20 in my 97 integra rs. The only thing I have done is a stage 3 clutchmasters clutch(stock flywheel), and air intake. I ve ran a 15.5 at the track before but i'm sure if I really knew how to drive my car the right way i could post alittle bit quicker times. I say **** vtec. I'm going all motor, NO VTEC!!!!!! I bought another b20 head and i'm going to mill the head to bump up the compression, port and polish, and sticking some stage 3 crower cams and cams gears in it and go from there. I'm eventually going to put some gas on it and add a few more things to the motor and suspension. I'll tell you 1 thing, you'll love the torque the b20 has.

 

cool, ****-vtec is the first cool person i've found on this board!

stay cool man, it's truly unigue here

 

b20 sleeves = VERY WEAK..Sleeve the block or dont go b20

 

if your not going FI the stock sleeves are ok up to 8500 rpm.
i have a b20z non vtec on my gsr integra i dyno in at 137whp and 140lbs
with jdm dc 2.5 headers/cai/exhaust b&m fuel pressure set at 43psi.
00 ls tb and intake manifold gsr tranny with exedy clutch .did 15.0@90mph im sure i could have done 14.9 with a better 60ft. def a good block for daily driving feels mad good light to light tons of torque at 3rpm.
but remember if your building it all motor do plan on putting on a vtec head or you ll spend a fortune to get close to 200whp

 

Sounds like a good way to waste money.**** vtec ull be hitin 15''s still

Go ls/vtec just dont mess with the head no milling or porting. if u got cash go with a 85mm gsr block ull olmost make the torque but ull have the vtec passage, oil squirters, a good pick up, girdle, and oil pump..and good main cap..its all there ..good luck

....ISawUL00K....

 

LIKE I SAID "**** VTEC!!!!!!"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sounds like a good way to waste money.**** vtec ull be hitin 15''s still
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doubt it. Driven right you can hit low 15's or better with a B18B and boltons

 

i can say from personal experience, staying "non vtec" is a waste of time, money, effort, etc.......you will spend just as much money but not run nearly as well as a similarly built vtec motor. that is FACT. and for what??? just to be different??? if thats the reason your building a car, "just to be different", sell the honda. its been done countless times with very little success. i have the experience and knowledge to know.

 

instead of just saying "go vtack yo!"

Why not explain your setup, and why that perticular setup and route lead you to the conclusion that going non-vtec is not worth the time.

Hell a poorly setup turbo kit is going to be a waste of time and money, does that mean no one should go turbo?

If a B20 non-vtec can reach 200whp NA, I have a hard time beleaving that a worthwhile beefy powerband can't be achived.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ****-vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LIKE I SAID "**** VTEC!!!!!!"</TD></TR></TABLE>


Why though?


It's simply a camshaft with two different cam lobes. I would throw a b16 head with some high lift cams and that B20 will make a lot of power.

 

em1 chassis, b20vtec, 14.2 @ 99.6