ive read all the stuff on how and why blank rotors are better that x-drilled on other sites, i would like to know honda-techs opinion.

im getting new brakes all around by thanksgiving and i would like to see whats best-

x-drilled (powerstop)
slotted (power slot)
autozone blanks

or big brake kit (AEM etc.)
also have thought abut a 4 piston system like wilwood but i still have stock GSR 15" and not lookng to get new wheels anytime soon. ($$ issues)
i will howeer probably go with Axxis pads in front and autozones or cheapos in rear..

also getting new rear calipers.

 

cross drilled rotors are always better than blanks...better ventilation. now if you're thinking of getting a 4pot caliper piston brakes make sure you have a motor that produces 300+hp. there is no sense in getting those size brakes at all.

http://www.fastbrakes.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cross drilled rotors are always better than blanks...better ventilation. now if you're thinking of getting a 4pot caliper piston brakes make sure you have a motor that produces 300+hp. there is no sense in getting those size brakes at all.

http://www.fastbrakes.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cross drilled arent better than blanks, in fact, blanks are usually better than drilled/slotted. This has been covered alot.

And you dont need any power at all to need better brakes. Larger, better brakes will help no matter what. Dont skimp on brakes, buy a quality kit.
gmoore

 

Buy Brembo Blanks with upgraded Brake pads.

 

many ppl are telling me blanks too but i talk to guys who auto-x big boy cars like class A c5 turboed corvette, 700 whp bmw m3 SC and porsche guys, they all tell me to get x-drilled.....

im so confused! theoretically on mass and inertia etc drills should work but reading tells me blanks.....

 

KISS, keep it simple stupid. Brembo blanks, or even autozone blanks. Alot of people use those. Cheap xdrilled rotors will warp big time. So unless you wanna cough up a large sum of money for very high quality ones, and probably still run the risk of them warping, then Id stick with blanks.
gmoore

 

well just for reference my current rotors i have had for two years (10-6-01) and NEVER turned them -- they are powerstop x- drilled. (never turned because you cant i guess) they have started to give a little shake under high speed braking, and dont feel as tight so this is warp i think.

I only changed pads once which was this past summer and they didnt even need it then. i already had them off then realized so i went ahead and did the job anyway.

the differnce in cost isnt much-- i can get powerstop thu a connection for 42 each and the blanks from autozone are 25+ tax

 

Why are you even pondering buying xdrilled again if yours warped, and their more expensive?
gmoore

 

Go with some Brembo's or Wilwoods

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are you even pondering buying xdrilled again if yours warped, and their more expensive?
gmoore</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used them 2 YEARS!! without resurfacing and VERY VERY hard driving. ive dragged often and going from 110 to 25 mph 1-x a night will kill any rotor i would think....
I feel like i got my use out of them, but im thinking if i should do it again

 

i'd say the best brakes for auto-X would be a nice brembo, wilwood, or other high end complete kit. calipers included. but you'll have to have bigger wheels, which isn't good for a relatively low powered(comapred to the C5 monster) honda in auto-X. so i'd stick with brembo blanks and green stuff pads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theJUMPoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> green stuff pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

EBC Sucks... get something like Axxis Ultimates or Carbotech Bobcats.

This past weekend I was at Summit point I did about 80 laps (20 laps per session) I get up to 110 on the front strech and slow down to around 40-50 mph, my Bremo Blanks have help up fine all year long (8 Tracks events who knows howmany laps all with high speed 100+ straits and slow turns)

Here is a good reference to learn about rotors. http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm

 

has anyone cryo'd their rotors (or anything in their car for that matter)? i heard it helps wonders

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

EBC Sucks... get something like Axxis Ultimates or Carbotech Bobcats.

This past weekend I was at Summit point I did about 80 laps (20 laps per session) I get up to 110 on the front strech and slow down to around 40-50 mph, my Bremo Blanks have help up fine all year long (8 Tracks events who knows howmany laps all with high speed 100+ straits and slow turns)

Here is a good reference to learn about rotors. http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm
</TD></TR></TABLE>
EBC has been working fine for me, but i've heard good things about those Axxis metal pads. I might give em' a shot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cross drilled arent better than blanks, in fact, blanks are usually better than drilled/slotted. This has been covered alot.

And you dont need any power at all to need better brakes. Larger, better brakes will help no matter what. Dont skimp on brakes, buy a quality kit.
gmoore</TD></TR></TABLE>

in a sense of whats better or whats worse it all depends on one's experience. some will say that ebc arent worth a penny and axis is and some will say the opposite. keep in mind in my first post i cleary mentioned that its practical to stick with a single pot caliper for a 4 cylinder stock motor. and if someone would have taken a second to look at the site i linked http://www.fastbrakes.com and realize that its a company that developed a bigbrake kit for our daily driven 4barrel cars. 11.3 front rotor diameter 11.5 rear rotor diameter big brake kit that utilizes honda ex or any integra brake caliper.

now think for a second is it worth to buy a 2-4pot caliper big brake kit(mugen/spoon/baer/aem) thats retails for 2-4k? on a stock or i/h/e slightly modified car.

my point is if someone wants big brake they also have the option of retaining their oem honda parts(itr brake/gsr brake or go fastbrake).


Modified by eg6si at 7:44 PM 11/10/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I used them 2 YEARS!! without resurfacing and VERY VERY hard driving
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Until you have used them on a track you havn't used them hard. Daily driving isn't going to heat up the rotors to the point of glowing, I don't care how hard you drive.

 

Hey ross- i found this info and maybe you can find it informative--
quoted from Brembo website:

What should be put on the rear?
Direct OE replacement drilled or slotted discs are available for the rear. They work with your standard calipers and give you increased stopping power, cooler operating temperatures, and reduced brake fade. It's an engineered balance for the larger, more powerful front braking system.

Where can I find test data on stopping distances?
At the speeds that stopping distance is generally measured from (60 to 70mph), the test is primarily testing the tire's grip on the pavement. As delivered from the manufacturer, nearly all vehicles are able to engage the ABS or lock the wheels at these speeds. Therefore, an increase in braking power will do nothing to stop the vehicle in a shorter distance. For this reason, we do not record stopping distances at this time. The Brembo systems will show their greatest advantages when braking from higher speeds, or when tasked with repeated heavy braking. The increased braking torque provides for maximum deceleration at speed, and the ability to absorb and quickly dissipate the intense heat generated during repeated braking insures that the braking system will perform at the same high level each time.

How does reducing weight of the braking system benefit the vehicle?
The mass of any vehicle requires energy to accelerate or decelerate. Reducing the vehicle mass improves acceleration, and requires less energy to be dissipated during deceleration. Rotating mass requires additional energy in order to increase or decrease its speed of rotation. Therefore, decreasing the mass of the caliper is valuable due to its contribution to total vehicle mass, and decreasing the mass of the disc has an even greater benefit due to the fact that it must rotate as well. Additionally, the mass of the brake system is also unsprung mass. Reducing the unsprung mass has the additional benefit of improved suspension performance, resulting in enhanced ride and handling.

Why use drilled or slotted discs?
Drilling or slotting discs aids the disc in several ways:

1) The edges of the slots or holes continuously clean and refresh the pad surface as well as providing increased brake "bite". Additionally, they prevent gasses from collecting between the pad and disc interface.
2) The disc is lightened, thereby decreasing its rotational inertia.
Improved ventilation increases the disc's ability to shed heat, resulting in cooler operating temperatures

What are the advantages of drilled and slotted discs?
The main advantages of drilled and slotted discs are the same


Why are there so many holes in a cross-drilled disc?
The number of holes in a cross-drilled disc is part of the engineered system. Brembo has done extensive testing with regards to the number of holes, their size, their location and their chamfering. This attention to detail is what truly sets Brembo apart in the world of braking. The same attention to detail that is delivered to the Ferrari Formula One effort is a component of the high performance program. The number of holes in a disc is in part a function of the size of the disc and the internal venting (if it is a vented disc).

Are discs with cast-in-place holes better than cross-drilled discs?
Brembo has extensively studied and tested cross-drilling versus casting the holes in place and found no significant effect on performance or durability.

How long do Brembo discs last?
The useable life of a brake disc is influenced by a number of factors including vehicle weight, driving style, vehicle usage, brake pad material, and many others. Therefore a blanket disc lifetime cannot be given. However, when used in the same conditions, a Brembo disc should meet or exceed the life of the disc it replaces. It is important, however, to periodically check the disc thickness, and replace the disc if it falls below the minimum allowed thickness.


now can you help clarify some of these "myths" im really not trying to be an *** but do you think this is a marketing ploy or reality? thanks for any insight in advance


Modified by 95gsrturbo at 11:00 PM 11/11/2003

 

I think your best option is to get the blanks and good pads (Hawk Carbo Ax whatever) and use them for 6 months. If there not good enough for you, step up. No big deal.
About brembo blanks: I had a stuck caliper for a few weeks. I routinely had my rear rotor glowing bright yellow after short drives. I mean fricking tortue test burning hot, the whole rotor/hat assembly was over the 500F limit of my temp-gun. Other then some glaze still on there where the pad never recovered, it's still unwarped (that I can 'feel') and grips just fine for the street.
Anyway, it's your money...

 

Endless Brake Pads NA-Y or better
Powerslot rotors all four corners

they work really well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They work with your standard calipers and give you increased stopping power
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That enough should be enough reason not to beleave what they have in that FAQ.

 

i have brembo cross drilled and sloted rotors and i like them fine
i got them for $50 each

 

so there is absolutely no advantage except asthetics on drilles and slots?

what abuot the harm they could provide other than "warping" as well as cracking, do drilled and slots increase your stopping distance? as in from a stock 120ft to 130ft.?


anyone have evidence of this?

 

anyone have project U brake pads? opinions?

 

anyone else have an opinion-- how about on brake flluid??

 

Motul 600