Comptech Race Header - Clearance Issues
First of all I know this is a race product... I know that.... I was just wondering the following.
Those of you using the comptech race header... or similar low hanging headers. How low do you have your car and do you have problems hitting the header on stuff?
I have had my it on my car for about 4 days and have already dented the crap out of it. My car isn't that low... Just an unfortunate road construction bumb.
Measuring from the jack points.. how much ground clearance do you have... I would like to know other set ups as well.
Do they make a skid plate for this?
Those of you using the comptech race header... or similar low hanging headers. How low do you have your car and do you have problems hitting the header on stuff?
I have had my it on my car for about 4 days and have already dented the crap out of it. My car isn't that low... Just an unfortunate road construction bumb.
Measuring from the jack points.. how much ground clearance do you have... I would like to know other set ups as well.
Do they make a skid plate for this?
My jack points are between 5.25" and 5.75" and I hit my a little. I run the front shocks stiffer to prevent the likelyhood of it happening but it really should sit .25" to .5" higher. But then what is the point of coilovers?
I had my car lowered before the race header. I had to raise it back up to prevent any damage and still damaged my header.
I've mentioned this problem to Comptech before and they insist that it's just a fluke. But from all the people I've spoken with that have this header, they too have clearance issue.
I've mentioned this problem to Comptech before and they insist that it's just a fluke. But from all the people I've spoken with that have this header, they too have clearance issue.
unless you are running stiffer springs on your car - I wouldn't lower it a lot - the suspension travel will still allow the car to bottom out if you hit a big bump.
watch out for railroad tracks, steep driveways and speedbumps too
BPR - who has 14K springs up front and still rides at near stock ride height
watch out for railroad tracks, steep driveways and speedbumps too
BPR - who has 14K springs up front and still rides at near stock ride height
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Phat R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BPR - who has 14K springs up front and still rides at near stock ride height
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Just curious and off topic, what rear rates are you running?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Just curious and off topic, what rear rates are you running?
also OT: (well more On Topic then Ed, heh)
the race header gets rid of the cat right? have either of you done anything for the o2 cat sensor to keep it from throwing CEL?
i have the SMSP modified carsound 2.5" cat with my DC JDM header and it just started throwing a catalyst code the other day. wondering what to do, but have also been thinking about replacing my header with something like the Comptech race. advice?
the race header gets rid of the cat right? have either of you done anything for the o2 cat sensor to keep it from throwing CEL?
i have the SMSP modified carsound 2.5" cat with my DC JDM header and it just started throwing a catalyst code the other day. wondering what to do, but have also been thinking about replacing my header with something like the Comptech race. advice?
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I'll post more info, as well as clearance pictures shortly.
Josh opted for the Comptech testpipe at the moment, but will be modifying his RM-01A to allow for a Carsound soon. The 02 wires...only the front one had to be extended. Some solder and heatshrink fixed that...or there are "extenders' available as well.
As for permanent testpipe users...you can buy a little box that sends the ECU the right resistance for the rear 02. Remember...the rear (cat) 02 is only checking to see if the cat is working...the front one is in charge of "tuning.'
Josh opted for the Comptech testpipe at the moment, but will be modifying his RM-01A to allow for a Carsound soon. The 02 wires...only the front one had to be extended. Some solder and heatshrink fixed that...or there are "extenders' available as well.
As for permanent testpipe users...you can buy a little box that sends the ECU the right resistance for the rear 02. Remember...the rear (cat) 02 is only checking to see if the cat is working...the front one is in charge of "tuning.'
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uncleben »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also OT: (well more On Topic then Ed, heh)
the race header gets rid of the cat right? have either of you done anything for the o2 cat sensor to keep it from throwing CEL?
i have the SMSP modified carsound 2.5" cat with my DC JDM header and it just started throwing a catalyst code the other day. wondering what to do, but have also been thinking about replacing my header with something like the Comptech race. advice?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am currently using comtechs test pipe... I need to find time to get my exhaust cut to install the cat... no codes yet.
I have heard just to unplug the negative battery terminal for a couple of minutes and the code will go away for a little bit.
the race header gets rid of the cat right? have either of you done anything for the o2 cat sensor to keep it from throwing CEL?
i have the SMSP modified carsound 2.5" cat with my DC JDM header and it just started throwing a catalyst code the other day. wondering what to do, but have also been thinking about replacing my header with something like the Comptech race. advice?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am currently using comtechs test pipe... I need to find time to get my exhaust cut to install the cat... no codes yet.
I have heard just to unplug the negative battery terminal for a couple of minutes and the code will go away for a little bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uncleben »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the race header gets rid of the cat right? have either of you done anything for the o2 cat sensor to keep it from throwing CEL?advice?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've been running Hondata so no CEL. I just recently switched over to the EMS. So...No CEL for sure.
I've been running Hondata so no CEL. I just recently switched over to the EMS. So...No CEL for sure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've been running Hondata so no CEL. .</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here
I've been running Hondata so no CEL. .</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here
That sucks.....! 
In the future, you might want to consider something like this:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=515078

In the future, you might want to consider something like this:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=515078
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">potholes and poor road construction have a way of finding the bottom of Josh's car...
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Nice way to put it James. The damage is not that bad... infact the abuse some other headers I have owned have taken more. I am just going to have to go with a Monster truck stance and buy that one dudes 19's
</TD></TR></TABLE>Nice way to put it James. The damage is not that bad... infact the abuse some other headers I have owned have taken more. I am just going to have to go with a Monster truck stance and buy that one dudes 19's
I'm curious to know how this measures verses the SPOON header? Which is lower? And since the Comptech Race is simular to HyTech, were there the same issues there?
-Victor
-Victor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 TYPE-R 312 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm curious to know how this measures verses the SPOON header? Which is lower? And since the Comptech Race is simular to HyTech, were there the same issues there?
-Victor</TD></TR></TABLE>
Victor,
Here is the clearances on my car, as you can see I have the plastic cover removed as we had just reinstalled the header on the car.
Austin

Full Size, copy and paste into your browser:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
-Victor</TD></TR></TABLE>
Victor,
Here is the clearances on my car, as you can see I have the plastic cover removed as we had just reinstalled the header on the car.
Austin

Full Size, copy and paste into your browser:
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 TYPE-R 312 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm curious to know how this measures verses the SPOON header? Which is lower? And since the Comptech Race is simular to HyTech, were there the same issues there?
-Victor</TD></TR></TABLE>
Comptech is lower to avoid cutting the tranmsiions block brace. Supposedly something is different too that aloloows the Comptech to be installed without the removal of radiaotr fans that the Hytech doesn't allow for.
I'd rather take my rad fans off than bang the header. Not sure I'd rather cut a transmission brace though.
Trade offs all around.
-Victor</TD></TR></TABLE>
Comptech is lower to avoid cutting the tranmsiions block brace. Supposedly something is different too that aloloows the Comptech to be installed without the removal of radiaotr fans that the Hytech doesn't allow for.
I'd rather take my rad fans off than bang the header. Not sure I'd rather cut a transmission brace though.
Trade offs all around.
Not to hijack this thread, but I have a question.
How that several people actually have this header, how does it perform? Are you happy with it? Any dyno #'s? Thanks.
How that several people actually have this header, how does it perform? Are you happy with it? Any dyno #'s? Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asahi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure I'd rather cut a transmission brace though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You do know that that brace was designed to stand the engine upright in case it was out of the car and there was no transmission attached to it right?
You do know that that brace was designed to stand the engine upright in case it was out of the car and there was no transmission attached to it right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You do know that that brace was designed to stand the engine upright in case it was out of the car and there was no transmission attached to it right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you implying there was a specific need to have the B18C5 stand upright out of the car that all other Bseries didn't have and that there is no benefit when the engine is in the car?
Even if that is the case I would prefer to have a piece to replace the original not cut it up. But I can't imagine they put it on just our engines . . . to stand it up. There are planty of engine stands and devices they use during manufacturing. So what is the reson for this need?
You do know that that brace was designed to stand the engine upright in case it was out of the car and there was no transmission attached to it right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you implying there was a specific need to have the B18C5 stand upright out of the car that all other Bseries didn't have and that there is no benefit when the engine is in the car?
Even if that is the case I would prefer to have a piece to replace the original not cut it up. But I can't imagine they put it on just our engines . . . to stand it up. There are planty of engine stands and devices they use during manufacturing. So what is the reson for this need?
Trey, Every B-Series motor comes with that bracket too. Not just the Type R. It's just so happened that Honda made a one piece design for the ITR engine. So it function as a clutch cover too. What I'm saying is, if you had to remove it, you can just get the clutch covered up with a piece of plate like on LS engines and not run the bracket.
My understanding was that the R was the only car to come with the brace. The other Bseries engines come with a tin plate to protect the flywheel from debris. I suppose from there I assumed that the brace was then somehow functional. No? I know you can replace it with the GSR/LS lesser counterpart cover. My point being I'd rather not cut orr ace when there are options out there that don't require it AND have good ground clearance AND make similar power to the above mentioned systems.



