*whump*whump*whump*whump*
Alright... before i spend any money i'd like an opinion on this.
Got a vibration (felt in the steering wheel and shifter) accompanied by an audible "whumpwhumpwhump" when i accelerate, in my 91 integra (now relegated to daily driving and hauling **** around).
- It is not present when i first drive the vehicle
- Gets worse the longer i drive it
- It only manifests itself under acceleration
- Under deceleration or cruise there is no 'whumping'
- If i am accelerating and immediately depress the clutch the 'whumping' vanishes
- Under right hand turns the 'whumping' also vanishes
- Sounds like its coming from the driver's side front
I have rotated the wheels, no change. I have also inspected both sides of the suspension and dont find anything torn, leaking, spewing, or with excessive play.
All of this leads me to believe its the driver's side axle since the noise is not present when coasting and not a wheel/tire/wheelbearing issue....
Thoughts before i pick up a reman from advance auto tomorrow and have at it?
Got a vibration (felt in the steering wheel and shifter) accompanied by an audible "whumpwhumpwhump" when i accelerate, in my 91 integra (now relegated to daily driving and hauling **** around).
- It is not present when i first drive the vehicle
- Gets worse the longer i drive it
- It only manifests itself under acceleration
- Under deceleration or cruise there is no 'whumping'
- If i am accelerating and immediately depress the clutch the 'whumping' vanishes
- Under right hand turns the 'whumping' also vanishes
- Sounds like its coming from the driver's side front
I have rotated the wheels, no change. I have also inspected both sides of the suspension and dont find anything torn, leaking, spewing, or with excessive play.
All of this leads me to believe its the driver's side axle since the noise is not present when coasting and not a wheel/tire/wheelbearing issue....
Thoughts before i pick up a reman from advance auto tomorrow and have at it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Primo. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Torn CV is my bet.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Boots are in fantastic shape.... although i have no idea what lurks underneath them. And thats where i'm thinking the problem lies.
The Boots are in fantastic shape.... although i have no idea what lurks underneath them. And thats where i'm thinking the problem lies.
I'm on my second Advanced Auto reman'd axle.
Both have that nasty vibration around 65 mph, and sometimes flooring it.
Food for think?
And I've had the wheels balanced three times.
For a bit more you may want to consider an OEM axle.
Honda parts guys (friends, too) say, "They do a better job."
Both have that nasty vibration around 65 mph, and sometimes flooring it.
Food for think?
And I've had the wheels balanced three times.
For a bit more you may want to consider an OEM axle.
Honda parts guys (friends, too) say, "They do a better job."
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eee Pee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For a bit more you may want to consider an OEM axle.
Honda parts guys (friends, too) say, "They do a better job." </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wholesale cost is $300+. List is up near $600. Retail is about $460.
I was planning on getting IAS on the horn tomorrow though. Problem is, the 90-93 integra axles work fansastic for a b-series in a EG-hatch swap.
Honda parts guys (friends, too) say, "They do a better job." </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wholesale cost is $300+. List is up near $600. Retail is about $460.
I was planning on getting IAS on the horn tomorrow though. Problem is, the 90-93 integra axles work fansastic for a b-series in a EG-hatch swap.
Spun Bearing.
Put the car on stands and run the motor. If the "whump" is coming from the back side of the oil pan...
Our Neon did the same thing when it spun a bearing. We thought it was a halfshaft.
Put the car on stands and run the motor. If the "whump" is coming from the back side of the oil pan...
Our Neon did the same thing when it spun a bearing. We thought it was a halfshaft.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wholesale cost is $300+. List is up near $600. Retail is about $460.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow. He said about $150...Huh.
Oh, and a spun bearing is not what I wanted to hear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow. He said about $150...Huh.
Oh, and a spun bearing is not what I wanted to hear.
Trending Topics
The 'whumping' does not occur when accelerating the engine with the clutch in, on the stands or while the engine is hot and the car has been sitting or while accelerating while turning right.
I would bet the farm that its the axle, even if the boot looks healthy. Most likely the inboard CV joint. Happened to several local cars with the same symptoms, including my own.
Replace the axle on the side that is ok when you turn that direction.
For example - if you turn right and it goes away, the problem is on the right side.
Replace the axle on the side that is ok when you turn that direction.
For example - if you turn right and it goes away, the problem is on the right side.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For example - if you turn right and it goes away, the problem is on the right side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm. Thats not where the problem appears to be coming from - although wheelbearings and axles can be hard to diagnose that way.
I wouldnt have even thought about that. Thanks
Hmm. Thats not where the problem appears to be coming from - although wheelbearings and axles can be hard to diagnose that way.
I wouldnt have even thought about that. Thanks
You guys need to stop buying the low-cost Advance Auto axles. Buy the brand new ones for about $20 more. Much better of an axle and same warranty.
We chased a vibration exactly as you describe for two weekends in our 91 integra. We dismissed the CV because it was BRAND new. The vibration kept happening. Finally the left front wheel studs sheered off. We thought "Oh! it was the studs the whole time!" Wrong. On the second sunday our perfectly brand-new, no boot tear CV joint ex-PLODED
. Replaced, problem gone. The weird thing is it was on the inboard joint. we must have damaged it on the way in.
That poor car spent alot of time behind a tow truck that weekend
. Replaced, problem gone. The weird thing is it was on the inboard joint. we must have damaged it on the way in.That poor car spent alot of time behind a tow truck that weekend
http://www.partsamerica.com/Se...+Axle
There are "remans" and "new" listed.
Unfortunately, the remans are in stock at my local autozone and the new are not.
There are "remans" and "new" listed.
Unfortunately, the remans are in stock at my local autozone and the new are not.
Advance Auto sells GCK and CCT axles. I'm not sure which ones were the new ones, but the guy behind the desk should be able to show you. True that the new ones need to be ordered, but it was only a day wait for me.
And let me repeat, do not buy the cheapo reman units. Spend the extra $20 for the new ones.
And let me repeat, do not buy the cheapo reman units. Spend the extra $20 for the new ones.
It is 100% driveshaft.....I will even go as far as to gaurantee that it is your cv. Unfortunatly I have a good amount of experience with bad cv's.....from my H1 car.
i concur with JEimports 100%.
my inner CV went bad driving back from the Glen two years ago. exactly the same symptoms you described. to a tee.
crawl under the car and try twisting the shaft. you will find excessive play in the inner CV joint.
good luck RJ.
see you at summit point!
my inner CV went bad driving back from the Glen two years ago. exactly the same symptoms you described. to a tee.
crawl under the car and try twisting the shaft. you will find excessive play in the inner CV joint.
good luck RJ.
see you at summit point!


