i got a toda belt a month ago and installed it. but we probably went over it 5-6 times and cant get it tight. has some slack(more than my stock belt had) in it, but obviously it isnt anything that would hurt the car because it has been driving good. i even took it to an HPDE. i was wondering if your belts are slack too.

i know the procedure to tightening it, i had a stock belt on before and it was damn near tight, and my friend also just put a stock belt on and it was on tight too. (by tight, i mean tighter than what we have now). so i was wondering, does it stay "loose" so it can stretch at high RPMs???

thanx. ill try to get a pic of how "loose" it is

its probably all good, but it just looks too loose for those cams.i have JUN3's BTW

 

 

ive got a PE belt, and its "loose" looking to me. Its tight it seems, but it flaps when the motor is running, on the exaust side, ive worried about it before too, but ive drag raced with it like that numerous times

 

I am running the Toda belt on several cars. I understnad what you are talking about. Install the belt just like you would a stock one. When the motor heats up the belt tightens. so there should be no worries.

 

thanx casey and thegrinch.

 

I got a PE belt and had the exact same concerns. I even went as far as to order a new tensioner but never installed it. Its been this way for over a year with no problems numerous track events and autox.

 

You need to put a wrench on the cam gear and turn it to remove the slack in the belt as you pull up on the tensioner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thegrinch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am running the Toda belt on several cars. I understnad what you are talking about. Install the belt just like you would a stock one. When the motor heats up the belt tightens. so there should be no worries.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

if there is slack on one side u'll need to re-do or re-tighten the belt. the tightness should be even all around or u'll skip a tooth. as mentioned, just install the belt as u would an OEM belt.

P.S.
the heat in the engine bay will not "re-tighten" the belt. if that were the case, the belt will snap in no time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by randyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if there is slack on one side u'll need to re-do or re-tighten the belt. the tightness should be even all around or u'll skip a tooth. as mentioned, just install the belt as u would an OEM belt.

P.S.
the heat in the engine bay will not "re-tighten" the belt. if that were the case, the belt will snap in no time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, the belt gets real tight when the motor heats up, trust me i know, this problem
has been on my mine for a long time. i do feel like the belt is way too tight and i think it will break, so i stopped driving my car. but if i loosen it , the flapping on the exhust side of the belt happens. so what do i do? loose or real tight? i have been worried for a long time, and have been looking for a thread like this forever.
it seems like there is no "in between" on the tension. it never ever seems right.
help

 

Toda Belt here. Tightened according to factory manual. Never had a problem revving to 10K and back. A little loose when motor is cold.

 

when at idle.. i can see the flapping. i rev to 9.5K couple times. when i was on track it was constant. no prob with it. so it must be common.

 

word, so its common i suppose.

 

I use the coat hanger trick on my PE belt, and it's tight. It is normal for the belt to "look" loose (running) on the exhaust side when it is properly tensioned. You should not have more than 2-3mm of deflection at the top of the belt between the cam gears when you press firmly on the belt.

 

holler with the coat hanger trick...

 

yeah what coat hanger trick?

 

You cut a coat hanger and make a small hook, then slide it down under the tensioner spring and pull up on the spring while turning a wrench on the Cam gear bolt. By turning the cam gear bolt and pulling the tensioner spring at the same time you will be able to set the tension anywhere you want. Put the wrench on the intake cam and turn it clockwise.

 

I do the coat hanger thing pretty much like Tbone, but I use a socket and ratchet on the crank bolt and turn it counterclockwise. Just remember that the tensioner bolt has to be loose when you do it, and lock it down when you have the tension where you want it.

 

im gald this thread came up, it makes me feel a whole lot better
im not the only one that has this issue.

 

I don't recommend that little trick... it works on the stock belts, but if you need to do that than you probably need to replace the tensioner. I have seen people use the coat hanger and the oil pump and the cam have broken before. and they were toda cams too. Once he used the factory installation procedure never again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thegrinch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't recommend that little trick... it works on the stock belts, but if you need to do that than you probably need to replace the tensioner. I have seen people use the coat hanger and the oil pump and the cam have broken before. and they were toda cams too. Once he used the factory installation procedure never again. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The oil pump did not break because the timing belt was tight-it is driven direcly off the crank. The cause of the cam breaking is debatable-it is possible, I suppose, for a cam to break due to an overtight timing belt. If that was the case, the cam(s) would break right at the gear.

 

I have even talked to Dr. Charles about this matter and he also agrees that if the timing belt is too tight it could cause an oil pump failure and breakage of the cam. A overly tight belt and 9k+ = breakage.

 

How does it cause the oil pump to break? Please explain...

 

My toda belt is tight as could be.. only got 1500 miles on it though..

 

Maybe you have the wrong size? I know PE makes 3 different B-Series sizes, and I believe TODA only has one. PE makes one for B16A, B18C, and B20B (LS engine uses this one too).

 

so does this belt tighten down to stock deflection all around or is the exhaust side going to flap a little bit? Also is it true the toda belt's suggested life span is only 45k before change to another? more info before purchase is better thank you.