With my setup I am projecting 250whp and I have purchased a GE blockguard. It just seems like there are so many mixed opinions on the blockguard that I was considering leaving it out when doing my rod/piston install. Can stock d series sleeves hold 250whp? Thanks,

Pfieff

 

All depends on tuning. A stock sleeve can give out on 90whp if detonation is bad enough.

Properly tuned 250whp with a nice standalone and a goof A/F shouldn't be a problem in a D16 OEM sleeve. I wouldn't want to push much more than that though. And I would personally leave the blockguard out... heard too many stories of those things distoring the sleeves when they are installed. Good luck!

- Louis

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pfieffdog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Can stock d series sleeves hold 250whp? Thanks,

Pfieff</TD></TR></TABLE>

B-series guys have shown us, stock sleeves can handle ALOT of power. It's the tuning that makes/breaks a setup.

 

D series sleeves are just as strong as b's, they will handle that and ALOT more fine. like everyone else said its all the tuning, tuned well 250whp will NOT crack a sleeve

 

My sleeves are loving it, without a blockgaurd. Make sure you tune that shiat.

 

Yea, tuning will be done via hondata s100b. Hmm....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-sohctec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My sleeves are loving it, without a blockgaurd. Make sure you tune that shiat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats your setup? how much whp?

 

I'd go ahead and throw that blockguard in there...just don't FORCE it in with a hammer, like some suggest. It should fit SNUG, but not to the point where it distorts the cylinders. You should always do a final honing on the walls anyways when installing new pistons/rings....so just go ahead and check the bores while you're in there. (after you install the blockguard, that is)

Good luck! So what turbo setup are you planning on going with?

 

Sleeves will be fine I am shooting for around 230whp on a completely stock block, with rods and pistons 350whp race gas will be used where needed. But the answer is yes easy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98CTRCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd go ahead and throw that blockguard in there...just don't FORCE it in with a hammer, like some suggest. It should fit SNUG, but not to the point where it distorts the cylinders. You should always do a final honing on the walls anyways when installing new pistons/rings....so just go ahead and check the bores while you're in there. (after you install the blockguard, that is)

Good luck! So what turbo setup are you planning on going with? </TD></TR></TABLE>

If I do use it, its getting tig welded in and the walls are being honed after the install of it. The setup for now will be the greddy kit @15psi, then throwing probably an 18g on there.

 

any other opinions?

 

**** the block guard, I can't believe people are still asking about it with all the experience peeps had. Look around, many D-series guys are running 300whp safe with just rods & pistons. Hell, Boosted9 ran 302whp with just ARPs and a 3 mm head gasket. Civic Tsi has been running 16+ psi on his Z6 for 4 years now. He ran an 11.7 @ 121 mph full street trim... If you need more info, look up Boosted Hybrid, Ladysman, Boosted9, TurbodCX and their threads and posts will help you along the way, they have for me!

 

The only thing a bock guard will do is retain heat around the combustion chamber, which is the worst thing you can do for a forced induction motor. I've seen at least 3 blocks with cracked sleeves WITH block guards in them. We have a car with a D15 built bottom end with stock sleeves that makes a little over 300 whp. If the tuning is on the money, you won't have any problems. Detonation is what cracks sleeves, not HP.

 

with forged internals it'll handle more than that, it's all in the tune

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tempest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing a bock guard will do is retain heat around the combustion chamber, which is the worst thing you can do for a forced induction motor. I've seen at least 3 blocks with cracked sleeves WITH block guards in them. We have a car with a D15 built bottom end with stock sleeves that makes a little over 300 whp. If the tuning is on the money, you won't have any problems. Detonation is what cracks sleeves, not HP. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no heating problems with my blockguard.

 

what type of turbo will you use to make 250whp on your d16?
t3/t04 with a small AR? what trim?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what type of turbo will you use to make 250whp on your d16?
t3/t04 with a small AR? what trim?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am maxing out the greddy turbo, the 15g. I am copying the setup that st00pid used about 2 months ago and put down 251whp, but in that setup, blockguard was used.

 

I think that I am going to leave out the blockguard and trust my hondata tuner. Still a lil undecided though.

 

I have 260whp on my d16z6 using a Greddy 15g like yours and I never had any trouble... I just put a blockguard to be safe but I dont know if it does something...

The sleeve are really strong ...

 

just one word,"nope". Those sleeves for what ever reason is weak sauce. No disrespect intended but its true.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MIKES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just one word,"nope". Those sleeves for what ever reason is weak sauce. No disrespect intended but its true.</TD></TR></TABLE> And you came to this conclusion how? Or are you joking

 

block guards are a toss up! some do good others take a dump when your motor detonates! the true key is the tuning! i've blow motors with and without block-guards, in both situations the tune is what f'ed me up!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chpt1onBOOST &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">block guards are a toss up! some do good others take a dump when your motor detonates! the true key is the tuning! i've blow motors with and without block-guards, in both situations the tune is what f'ed me up!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that I am just going to bank on a good tune. I'm leaning towards just leaving out the blockguard.

 

the qustion is can it make that much and why when you can get a dohc and be at that point with less money and a better power band

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedsiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the qustion is can it make that much and why when you can get a dohc and be at that point with less money and a better power band</TD></TR></TABLE>

It can make that much power, and I have considered a swap, but I figured I wanted to max out what I had first before I move on. Might as work with what you got, right