First time LS/VTEC build
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 890
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From: Still searching for OneEyed Willies Treasure
First time LS/VTEC build
Hey everyone.
I am attempting to build an LS/VTEC. I blew my B16A2 block, and the head is fine.
So far I have a 95 LS longblock. Next thing I bought are CTR Pistons (Standard bore). I am a little worried that I made a mistake by buying these Pistons for daily driving. (Meaning, I think the CR will be way high for pump gas, something like 12.4:1)
Next thing I want to purchase are Eagle HB Rods.
Not too sure what else to do with the bottom end.
As for the HEAD??? I want to do a PnP and a 3 angle valve job, REV valve kit (Stainless Steel valves, dual valve springs, and Titanium Retainers), Not sure bout cams, I want either TODA Spec A or B's, and TODA Cam Gears, and Toda timing belt.
Any other things I should know before I continue with the building???
Any suggestions??? Parts, Tips, etc...????
Also if anyone could post some LS/VTEC "kits" I've seen a few online, but forgot where. Companies have kits that are for the oil Tapping lines.
Thanx.
I am attempting to build an LS/VTEC. I blew my B16A2 block, and the head is fine.
So far I have a 95 LS longblock. Next thing I bought are CTR Pistons (Standard bore). I am a little worried that I made a mistake by buying these Pistons for daily driving. (Meaning, I think the CR will be way high for pump gas, something like 12.4:1)
Next thing I want to purchase are Eagle HB Rods.
Not too sure what else to do with the bottom end.
As for the HEAD??? I want to do a PnP and a 3 angle valve job, REV valve kit (Stainless Steel valves, dual valve springs, and Titanium Retainers), Not sure bout cams, I want either TODA Spec A or B's, and TODA Cam Gears, and Toda timing belt.
Any other things I should know before I continue with the building???
Any suggestions??? Parts, Tips, etc...????
Also if anyone could post some LS/VTEC "kits" I've seen a few online, but forgot where. Companies have kits that are for the oil Tapping lines.
Thanx.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 935
Likes: 0
From: Hot Ass, Arizona, united states
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (MugenB16A2)
sounds like you could have a good build on your hands..use the search fuction..there are endless amounts of threads on ls/vtec...and welcome to honda-tech
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: everett, wa, us
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (MugenB16A2)
i've had 2 ls v-tecs...one b20 and one 1.8L ls...i had 12.6:1 in the b20 and it was fine for everyday driving just watch your timing and run 92 octane...um as for rods if your gonna go with ctr's i'd just run a ls rod with rod bolts...i'm pretty sure you wont need the eagles for a mild street motor thats $$$ that could go to your head or something...and with a b16 head it will drop compression .2 off the the compression of the pistons...
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 890
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From: Still searching for OneEyed Willies Treasure
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (WA TODA HATCH)
Thanks for your thoughts everyone, SO far my designs sound lik ethey'll go well, but I came across a few old post here on HT about headgaskets (which ones to use, how to "modify" them, etc.)
I thought that I was supposed to use a Non-VTEC headgasket, but I could be wrong.
Please let me know what you think.
I thought that I was supposed to use a Non-VTEC headgasket, but I could be wrong.
Please let me know what you think.
2.7(p/t)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,357
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (WA TODA HATCH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WA TODA HATCH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...and with a b16 head it will drop compression .2 off the the compression of the pistons...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, as compared to a GSR head. if you are careful with your timing and depending on where you live always fill up with at least 91 (thats pushing it though, im lucky in md, we have 93 everwhere
) you will be fine interms of detanation if you tune it correctly.
You will also use the stock ls head gasket, you will need to remove the metal rivets on one side of the gasket, i removed my middle layer so i removed them all but check with c-speedracing.com in their how to section on which rivets to remove so the head does not sit on them when torquing it down.
Also, there really have been a bunch of ls/vtec threads (im not flaming you) just search and you might find alot of good info
if you have anymore questions just pm me
-sander
Yeah, as compared to a GSR head. if you are careful with your timing and depending on where you live always fill up with at least 91 (thats pushing it though, im lucky in md, we have 93 everwhere
) you will be fine interms of detanation if you tune it correctly.You will also use the stock ls head gasket, you will need to remove the metal rivets on one side of the gasket, i removed my middle layer so i removed them all but check with c-speedracing.com in their how to section on which rivets to remove so the head does not sit on them when torquing it down.
Also, there really have been a bunch of ls/vtec threads (im not flaming you) just search and you might find alot of good info
if you have anymore questions just pm me
-sander
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Trial User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (VtecDA9)
Here is something I wrote for another board:
The Cost of LsVtec
In the last few days many people have asked me, “What the best performance upgrade for their 88-91 (EF style chassis) is?” That is without a doubt the addition of another camshaft and variable valve timing (with electronic lift control) known only by its street name, the infamous B16. B16’s are cheap and plentiful and for many a weekend racer is the best first step. This is well documented around the Internet, and cost is somewhere in the neighbourhood of around $3000 installed. As I said, I’ve found this to be more than sufficiently documented on the Internet, but if anyone has any specific questions about it, feel free to ask. The 2nd, and more important question is; “What comes next?” For most people they like to drag race their motors. In drag, torque is key (after suspension and tire upgrades), and torque is what the B16 lacks, and cannot be found in the stock bottom end. The solution lies in the addition of the bottom end found in the 90-01 Integra LS, RS, or GS or one off SE. The B18A (found in the cable operated clutch applications years 90 – 93) is a much more suitable candidate mainly because of cost. Their high km’s, and vintage make them much more plentiful in scrap yards and garages, and thus bring down the cost. Since rebuilding is something I would strongly recommend, km’s are a bit of a non-issue. The B18B (found in the newer hydraulic operated clutch applications years 94-01) also features a different style PCV valve which differentiates from the VTEC motors and the earlier generation of B18 motors making it more difficult (all be it, still possible) to integrate on to the VTEC head. B18A’s can easily be found locally in the $500 range, and have been known to go as cheaply as $100 for a short block in decent shape. Other than your B16 (which you should already have) that is your biggest cost. Since cost is the primary concern for most people I’ve decided to break it down with as many specifics as possible. Things with a variable price, I’ve listed with a variable price (as you’ve seen), but will try to keep it as specific as possible from this point on. The first thing we must understand is the weak points on the Ls bottom end. These are
The rod bolts: LsVtec had a reputation spread that it was an unreliable build. This is mostly because of cut corners on the part of the builder, but can be linked back to the rod bolts. The most important upgrade, and only one I would deem necessary is the addition of ARP rod bolts (part number 208-6401 for Honda 1.2L – 1.8L) which retail for $79.99. The will also need to be pressed in by a machine shop, I paid $42.50 to have mine done.
skilled individuals can do this on their own although some specialty tools are needed since some precision is required.
The pistons: Ls bottom ends have dish style pistons which actually add 3.2 cc to the combustion chamber, and would yield a compression ratio of 9.55:1 with a stock B16 head. This is bad for NA applications because compression is what makes your power. This can be remedied by the reuse of your stock PR3 pistons (the pistons which came from your B16) that push out a total of 6.01 cc from the chamber size (a difference of 9.21 cc) for a compression ratio of 11.33:1 on the same set-up. That is what I would recommend, unless price wasnÂ’t a major concern. That would come out to a total cost of about $50 to have the pistons pressed off and pressed on to the new rods. If cost werenÂ’t as big a concern IÂ’d recommend a set of PCT (Civic Type R pistons) that would displace a total of 8.63 cc, and yield a compression ratio of 12.03:1 (if used in standard .25mm oversize). If oversize pistons were used, you of course would need new pistons which retail in the range of $200-$250. You will also need new piston rings that will cost $140. You will need the block honed over. Any competent machine shop should be able to do this for $80. As well, 1 mm will need to be shaved from each side of the connection rod, to allow the pistons (CTR) to fit. I was charged $55.80 for this procedure.
The harmonics:GsR and Type R (comparable factory set-ups) come stock with a crank girdle. This is basically a piece of metal with sits across the 3 centre main caps, and keeps the crank from doing The Macarena at 8000 rpm. You can either machine a stock GsR or Type R one to fit (if you can find one, they are un usually rare because they cannot be bought new, they only come with the entire block assembly) or can purchase a new one from Z10 Engineering (http://www.z10eng.com/products.cfm) for $229.99 American. This upgrade is not necessary, but highly recommended. Since you will be changing the specifications of your bottom end you will need to purchase a new oil pickup (part no: 15220-P72-000, retail: $53.98), a new windage tray (part no: 11221-P72-000, retail: $48.65), 4 new outer main cap bolts (part no: 90007-P75-003, retail: 4 @ $5.20/piece) and 6 new inner main cap bolts (part no: 90007-PAA-T01, retail: 6 @ $6.30/piece), 6 dowel pins to hold the girdle in place (part no: 90715-PC6-000, retail: 6 @ $2.20/piece) and machining the girdle / main caps to accept the dowel pins ($90).
The use of the girdle is questionable if you are on a budget, more important is getting the rotating mass balanced
Now that we have gotten rid of the weaknesses, there are a few things that you will need to change on the head to allow it to accept the non-vtec block. The two big things you would need to change will be the oil hole in the head. It will be to be tapped and plugged which will cost ballpark $12. As well, we will need to have two dowel pin holes drilled out, to accept the standard placement of the dowel pins on the Ls block / Ls head gasket (part no: 12251-PR4-004, retail: $95.56), this procedure will cost $35. Finally (since we tapped and plugged the oil hole in the head) we will need to bring the oil to the head another way. Many people craft their own using the lines and plugs for less than $20. I prefer the custom made kits found on the Internet (like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...19017) which retail for approximately $80 American. It is one less thing for you to worry about, which is always nice. There we have it. Short of assembling the motor (which will cost about $500 if you donÂ’t do it yourself) we have a total cost of just shy of $5000 (including the cost of the B16). This will more than be sufficient for beating most Mustangs, F-bodies, J-Bodies, Turbo GPÂ’s, old man cars, Tiburons, MR2Â’s, turbo Dodges, lowered trucks, D-series, and some FDÂ’s that the streets of Winnipeg will throw at you. This does not include the cost of buying new rebuilt parts, which I would recommend to most people, but will significantly increase the cost of the whole operation. IÂ’ll break it down as briefly as possible:
Plastigage - $2.82, rebuild lube - $ 5.27, bearings - $220, timing belt - $94.86 (14400-p72-014), oil pump - $164.99 (15100-P72-A01), water pump - $125.22 (19200-P72-013), head bolts – 10 @ $13.69/piece (90006-P72-003), upper end gasket kit - $198.58 (06110-P73-A03, you can sell the extra VTEC head gasket you will get with this one for around $50), lower end gasket kit - $78.42 (061B1-PR4-A01), throttle body gasket - $5.57 (16176-P73-004), outer cam cap bolts –15 @ $1.52 / piece (95701-0805000), inner cam cap bolts – 4 @ $6.78 /piece(90014-PR3-000) and finally new flywheel bolts – 8 @ $3.30 / piece (90011-PH3-000) which would bring our total costs to around $6000. Not cheap by a long shot, but speed does cost money. The only question is; how fast do you want to go?
If you have patience most of the cost can be cut down buy shopping around. Remember, youÂ’re not limited to OEM parts. For example a set of ACL race bearings sell for $177.00 and are arguably better than OEM bearings which sell for $220.00.
-edit-
I should add those are Canada prices, so US dollars would be about 2/3rds of those prices.
Modified by -KangaRod- at 4:49 PM 10/10/2003
The Cost of LsVtec
In the last few days many people have asked me, “What the best performance upgrade for their 88-91 (EF style chassis) is?” That is without a doubt the addition of another camshaft and variable valve timing (with electronic lift control) known only by its street name, the infamous B16. B16’s are cheap and plentiful and for many a weekend racer is the best first step. This is well documented around the Internet, and cost is somewhere in the neighbourhood of around $3000 installed. As I said, I’ve found this to be more than sufficiently documented on the Internet, but if anyone has any specific questions about it, feel free to ask. The 2nd, and more important question is; “What comes next?” For most people they like to drag race their motors. In drag, torque is key (after suspension and tire upgrades), and torque is what the B16 lacks, and cannot be found in the stock bottom end. The solution lies in the addition of the bottom end found in the 90-01 Integra LS, RS, or GS or one off SE. The B18A (found in the cable operated clutch applications years 90 – 93) is a much more suitable candidate mainly because of cost. Their high km’s, and vintage make them much more plentiful in scrap yards and garages, and thus bring down the cost. Since rebuilding is something I would strongly recommend, km’s are a bit of a non-issue. The B18B (found in the newer hydraulic operated clutch applications years 94-01) also features a different style PCV valve which differentiates from the VTEC motors and the earlier generation of B18 motors making it more difficult (all be it, still possible) to integrate on to the VTEC head. B18A’s can easily be found locally in the $500 range, and have been known to go as cheaply as $100 for a short block in decent shape. Other than your B16 (which you should already have) that is your biggest cost. Since cost is the primary concern for most people I’ve decided to break it down with as many specifics as possible. Things with a variable price, I’ve listed with a variable price (as you’ve seen), but will try to keep it as specific as possible from this point on. The first thing we must understand is the weak points on the Ls bottom end. These are
The rod bolts: LsVtec had a reputation spread that it was an unreliable build. This is mostly because of cut corners on the part of the builder, but can be linked back to the rod bolts. The most important upgrade, and only one I would deem necessary is the addition of ARP rod bolts (part number 208-6401 for Honda 1.2L – 1.8L) which retail for $79.99. The will also need to be pressed in by a machine shop, I paid $42.50 to have mine done.
skilled individuals can do this on their own although some specialty tools are needed since some precision is required.
The pistons: Ls bottom ends have dish style pistons which actually add 3.2 cc to the combustion chamber, and would yield a compression ratio of 9.55:1 with a stock B16 head. This is bad for NA applications because compression is what makes your power. This can be remedied by the reuse of your stock PR3 pistons (the pistons which came from your B16) that push out a total of 6.01 cc from the chamber size (a difference of 9.21 cc) for a compression ratio of 11.33:1 on the same set-up. That is what I would recommend, unless price wasnÂ’t a major concern. That would come out to a total cost of about $50 to have the pistons pressed off and pressed on to the new rods. If cost werenÂ’t as big a concern IÂ’d recommend a set of PCT (Civic Type R pistons) that would displace a total of 8.63 cc, and yield a compression ratio of 12.03:1 (if used in standard .25mm oversize). If oversize pistons were used, you of course would need new pistons which retail in the range of $200-$250. You will also need new piston rings that will cost $140. You will need the block honed over. Any competent machine shop should be able to do this for $80. As well, 1 mm will need to be shaved from each side of the connection rod, to allow the pistons (CTR) to fit. I was charged $55.80 for this procedure.
The harmonics:GsR and Type R (comparable factory set-ups) come stock with a crank girdle. This is basically a piece of metal with sits across the 3 centre main caps, and keeps the crank from doing The Macarena at 8000 rpm. You can either machine a stock GsR or Type R one to fit (if you can find one, they are un usually rare because they cannot be bought new, they only come with the entire block assembly) or can purchase a new one from Z10 Engineering (http://www.z10eng.com/products.cfm) for $229.99 American. This upgrade is not necessary, but highly recommended. Since you will be changing the specifications of your bottom end you will need to purchase a new oil pickup (part no: 15220-P72-000, retail: $53.98), a new windage tray (part no: 11221-P72-000, retail: $48.65), 4 new outer main cap bolts (part no: 90007-P75-003, retail: 4 @ $5.20/piece) and 6 new inner main cap bolts (part no: 90007-PAA-T01, retail: 6 @ $6.30/piece), 6 dowel pins to hold the girdle in place (part no: 90715-PC6-000, retail: 6 @ $2.20/piece) and machining the girdle / main caps to accept the dowel pins ($90).
The use of the girdle is questionable if you are on a budget, more important is getting the rotating mass balanced
Now that we have gotten rid of the weaknesses, there are a few things that you will need to change on the head to allow it to accept the non-vtec block. The two big things you would need to change will be the oil hole in the head. It will be to be tapped and plugged which will cost ballpark $12. As well, we will need to have two dowel pin holes drilled out, to accept the standard placement of the dowel pins on the Ls block / Ls head gasket (part no: 12251-PR4-004, retail: $95.56), this procedure will cost $35. Finally (since we tapped and plugged the oil hole in the head) we will need to bring the oil to the head another way. Many people craft their own using the lines and plugs for less than $20. I prefer the custom made kits found on the Internet (like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...19017) which retail for approximately $80 American. It is one less thing for you to worry about, which is always nice. There we have it. Short of assembling the motor (which will cost about $500 if you donÂ’t do it yourself) we have a total cost of just shy of $5000 (including the cost of the B16). This will more than be sufficient for beating most Mustangs, F-bodies, J-Bodies, Turbo GPÂ’s, old man cars, Tiburons, MR2Â’s, turbo Dodges, lowered trucks, D-series, and some FDÂ’s that the streets of Winnipeg will throw at you. This does not include the cost of buying new rebuilt parts, which I would recommend to most people, but will significantly increase the cost of the whole operation. IÂ’ll break it down as briefly as possible:
Plastigage - $2.82, rebuild lube - $ 5.27, bearings - $220, timing belt - $94.86 (14400-p72-014), oil pump - $164.99 (15100-P72-A01), water pump - $125.22 (19200-P72-013), head bolts – 10 @ $13.69/piece (90006-P72-003), upper end gasket kit - $198.58 (06110-P73-A03, you can sell the extra VTEC head gasket you will get with this one for around $50), lower end gasket kit - $78.42 (061B1-PR4-A01), throttle body gasket - $5.57 (16176-P73-004), outer cam cap bolts –15 @ $1.52 / piece (95701-0805000), inner cam cap bolts – 4 @ $6.78 /piece(90014-PR3-000) and finally new flywheel bolts – 8 @ $3.30 / piece (90011-PH3-000) which would bring our total costs to around $6000. Not cheap by a long shot, but speed does cost money. The only question is; how fast do you want to go?
If you have patience most of the cost can be cut down buy shopping around. Remember, youÂ’re not limited to OEM parts. For example a set of ACL race bearings sell for $177.00 and are arguably better than OEM bearings which sell for $220.00.
-edit-
I should add those are Canada prices, so US dollars would be about 2/3rds of those prices.
Modified by -KangaRod- at 4:49 PM 10/10/2003
2.7(p/t)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,357
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (-KangaRod-)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -KangaRod- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The B18B (found in the newer hydraulic operated clutch applications years 94-01) also features a different style PCV valve which differentiates from the VTEC motors and the earlier generation of B18 motors making it more difficult (all be it, still possible) to integrate on to the VTEC head.[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>
The pcv system that runs off the valve cover is only the obd II b18b blocks, the obd I b18b blocks have the "vtec style" pcv system in terms of 94-01 integras
Excellent write up though!
-sander
The pcv system that runs off the valve cover is only the obd II b18b blocks, the obd I b18b blocks have the "vtec style" pcv system in terms of 94-01 integras
Excellent write up though!
-sander
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
From: Still searching for OneEyed Willies Treasure
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (sander)
Can I ask what you all think of maybe going with the B20B (CRV) and VTEC???
I guess it's just a stroked out LS/VTEC.
Will this be better??? Worse??? Bout the Same???
I am only asking this b/c I came across a local guy's charts and it's amazing.
I'm sure most of you all know him, his name is Kenji, and he lives near my home.
Any ways, here's the link on his CRVTEC:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=410980
Is it even possible to make the 1.8 LS/VTEC gain 200 WHP???? and Still be daily driven???
I guess it's just a stroked out LS/VTEC.
Will this be better??? Worse??? Bout the Same???
I am only asking this b/c I came across a local guy's charts and it's amazing.
I'm sure most of you all know him, his name is Kenji, and he lives near my home.
Any ways, here's the link on his CRVTEC:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=410980
Is it even possible to make the 1.8 LS/VTEC gain 200 WHP???? and Still be daily driven???
Trial User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (MugenB16A2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenB16A2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can I ask what you all think of maybe going with the B20B (CRV) and VTEC???
I guess it's just a stroked out LS/VTEC.
Will this be better??? Worse??? Bout the Same???
I am only asking this b/c I came across a local guy's charts and it's amazing.
I'm sure most of you all know him, his name is Kenji, and he lives near my home.
Any ways, here's the link on his CRVTEC:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=410980
Is it even possible to make the 1.8 LS/VTEC gain 200 WHP???? and Still be daily driven???</TD></TR></TABLE>
first of all, its not a stroked out Ls, its a bored out Ls. It is very possible to make 200 whp on a daily driver LsVtec. Check http://www.importreview.com and look at some of their 1.8l dynos to get an idea what power some guys are making.
I hope to make 200 whp from my lsvtec setup.
I guess it's just a stroked out LS/VTEC.
Will this be better??? Worse??? Bout the Same???
I am only asking this b/c I came across a local guy's charts and it's amazing.
I'm sure most of you all know him, his name is Kenji, and he lives near my home.
Any ways, here's the link on his CRVTEC:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=410980
Is it even possible to make the 1.8 LS/VTEC gain 200 WHP???? and Still be daily driven???</TD></TR></TABLE>
first of all, its not a stroked out Ls, its a bored out Ls. It is very possible to make 200 whp on a daily driver LsVtec. Check http://www.importreview.com and look at some of their 1.8l dynos to get an idea what power some guys are making.
I hope to make 200 whp from my lsvtec setup.
Trial User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (skribblah)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skribblah »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also check the link in my signature for some good info on ls/vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>
Out of curiousity, has anyone anywhere ever pushed a piston through the side of the sleeve? That is a good threat IMO
Out of curiousity, has anyone anywhere ever pushed a piston through the side of the sleeve? That is a good threat IMO
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,418
Likes: 5
From: Gresham, Oregon, USA
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (-KangaRod-)
Gas wise, I don't know what you have in FL but here in Oregon we have 92 at the pumps and you can easily tune 12.5:1 so I really wouldn't be too worried... At the track run race gas and retune... Hondata is a simple tuning device which works well for with naturally aspirated cars... Burn a pump gas EEPROM then another for your race gas... Pretty simple... Just my $0.02
Modified by Kataku2K3 at 5:26 PM 10/15/2003
Modified by Kataku2K3 at 5:26 PM 10/15/2003
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 1
From: EJ2 type DX number 511,096
Re: First time LS/VTEC build (-KangaRod-)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -KangaRod- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Out of curiousity, has anyone anywhere ever pushed a piston through the side of the sleeve? That is a good threat IMO</TD></TR></TABLE>
bleh... internet roumors...
Out of curiousity, has anyone anywhere ever pushed a piston through the side of the sleeve? That is a good threat IMO</TD></TR></TABLE>
bleh... internet roumors...
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
From: Still searching for OneEyed Willies Treasure
OK everyone, I know at the beginning I stated that I wanted to go with TODA Spec A's or B's, but I found a set of NEW '01 ITR Cams for 400 dollars... What are your thoughts on this instead of the Spec A's or B's.
Will it make good power??? Obviously not as well as the TODA's but I just thought the money saved could be used towards a Z10 Oil Pan.
Will it make good power??? Obviously not as well as the TODA's but I just thought the money saved could be used towards a Z10 Oil Pan.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
From: Still searching for OneEyed Willies Treasure
Re: (MugenB16A2)
Okay, I took the whole block apart and ready for the honing of the cylinder walls, and the hot tank cleaning. Was wondering, should I replace the main bearings??? If so, use Honda??? what about the rod bearings??? I am getting Eagle HBeams. should I just buy Honda rod bearings as well???
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,418
Likes: 5
From: Gresham, Oregon, USA
Re: (MugenB16A2)
I would replace all the bearings (main/rod) with OE Honda... Plasticgauge all clearances and you should be set... There are a couple different ways to start, you can go with the alphanumberic codling off the crank/block or crank/rod to find the specific bearing but always double check with plastigauge... I actually don't go off the alphanumberic coding, if you have a complete bearing set just go through the colors one by one... I normally start at green as it's right in the middle... Sorry to make this sound so complicated but it's very straight forward... If you need anything else let us know... Peace
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Posts: 4,097
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From: Get Firefox, CA, USA
Re: (Kataku2K3)
there are better springs out there compared to rev, and there are valves that flow better and weigh less
I would pay someone to build your engine. Its not easy making a powerful engine on your own, let alone just making it reliable and not having any problems
I would pay someone to build your engine. Its not easy making a powerful engine on your own, let alone just making it reliable and not having any problems
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
From: Still searching for OneEyed Willies Treasure
Re: (Bob-DC2)
I agree, but for my budget, where else am I gonna get all 16 valves (stainless) 16 titanium retainers, and all dual valve springs (Stainless) shipped to my door for $661.32????
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
From: Still searching for OneEyed Willies Treasure
Re: (Kataku2K3)
Plasticgauge???? What is that???
Please give me an example as to how I know what bearings (Rod and main, and crank) to get. Some pics, better literature???
Thanx.
Please give me an example as to how I know what bearings (Rod and main, and crank) to get. Some pics, better literature???
Thanx.