Dyno Result (N/A w/ a few mods)
Got the NSX dyno'd at a respectable 260.7rwhp and 198.4lbs of torque this last Saturday. Engine mods are Comptech headers, Dali straight pipes, and the Taitec GT Lightweight exhaust. Oh, it has the stock airbox and filter element. Now, I'm wondering how much a chip would increase the rwhp and torque. First time at a dyno. It was kinda fun.
I should have some video and pics fairly soon.
EDIT: Dyno was a Dynojet. The A/F ratio went from 13 to 11 at VTEC. I'm told that it went to a rich condition. Which is good, I guess, b/c you'd want it rich rather than lean in that situation, right? Yeah, I know, I'm a newb.
Modified by Ponyboy at 8:34 PM 10/6/2003
I should have some video and pics fairly soon.
EDIT: Dyno was a Dynojet. The A/F ratio went from 13 to 11 at VTEC. I'm told that it went to a rich condition. Which is good, I guess, b/c you'd want it rich rather than lean in that situation, right? Yeah, I know, I'm a newb.
Modified by Ponyboy at 8:34 PM 10/6/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AU K20A2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I take it you have a 97 and up model? What do 97+'s put to the wheels stock?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have dynoed my car along with 97+(Mine is 94 with I/H/E) and although the peak HP was about the same, 97+ had much more peak torque(13ft-lbs) and more torque throughout the RPM band. Interesting how much difference 0.2L makes.
I have dynoed my car along with 97+(Mine is 94 with I/H/E) and although the peak HP was about the same, 97+ had much more peak torque(13ft-lbs) and more torque throughout the RPM band. Interesting how much difference 0.2L makes.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ponyboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> First time at a dyno. It was kinda fun.</TD></TR></TABLE>
1st time is always fun, when you're at one everyday like I am it becomes really really boring.
A better air box and a "chip" and you should be set. Nice car and good numbers!
1st time is always fun, when you're at one everyday like I am it becomes really really boring.
A better air box and a "chip" and you should be set. Nice car and good numbers!
Surprisingly, it's going to be real hard to best the stock NSX airbox. Possibly with a better filter. But a cone filter is going to draw in air heated by the engine. With the stock airbox the air is drawn in from the outside. But you're correct, a chip may help.
FWIW, the car is going to the mechanic tomorrow to remedy a slipping clutch.
FWIW, the car is going to the mechanic tomorrow to remedy a slipping clutch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ponyboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
FWIW, the car is going to the mechanic tomorrow to remedy a slipping clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Short gears? The spending never stops!
FWIW, the car is going to the mechanic tomorrow to remedy a slipping clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Short gears? The spending never stops!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ponyboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Surprisingly, it's going to be real hard to best the stock NSX airbox. Possibly with a better filter. But a cone filter is going to draw in air heated by the engine. With the stock airbox the air is drawn in from the outside. But you're correct, a chip may help.
FWIW, the car is going to the mechanic tomorrow to remedy a slipping clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with this, in alot of cases the stock cold air boxes are the best, an upgraded PANEL filter, not cone would be my next mod. K&N drop in should be about $30 bucks.
What are you looking to optimize with the chip?
FWIW, the car is going to the mechanic tomorrow to remedy a slipping clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with this, in alot of cases the stock cold air boxes are the best, an upgraded PANEL filter, not cone would be my next mod. K&N drop in should be about $30 bucks.
What are you looking to optimize with the chip?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knightsport »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are you looking to optimize with the chip?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hp, torque, and rpm across the rev range. Actually, I just want to make sure I'm faster to the next apex than my M3 buddy. Gotta cover all the bases.
Hp, torque, and rpm across the rev range. Actually, I just want to make sure I'm faster to the next apex than my M3 buddy. Gotta cover all the bases.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ponyboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hp, torque, and rpm across the rev range. Actually, I just want to make sure I'm faster to the next apex than my M3 buddy. Gotta cover all the bases.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If that's the case I'd be looking at prices of chips versus a reliable fuel computer.
Of course, a 50hp dry shot wouldn't be ludicrous and much more cost effective.
Hp, torque, and rpm across the rev range. Actually, I just want to make sure I'm faster to the next apex than my M3 buddy. Gotta cover all the bases.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If that's the case I'd be looking at prices of chips versus a reliable fuel computer.
Of course, a 50hp dry shot wouldn't be ludicrous and much more cost effective.

Yeah, a tec 3 may be a good option. Provided I had cams and stuff. But then you have to know how to tune it and that justs adds to the total of books I'm trying to get through.
FWIW, I've never been a fan of NAWS. My Pops had an old BMW 2002 with a 289 and 150 shot of NAWS. Blew it on the first day he had it back from the shop. Bad blue bottle...bad bad bad blue bottle.
FWIW, I've never been a fan of NAWS. My Pops had an old BMW 2002 with a 289 and 150 shot of NAWS. Blew it on the first day he had it back from the shop. Bad blue bottle...bad bad bad blue bottle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ponyboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, a tec 3 may be a good option. Provided I had cams and stuff. But then you have to know how to tune it and that justs adds to the total of books I'm trying to get through.
FWIW, I've never been a fan of NAWS. My Pops had an old BMW 2002 with a 289 and 150 shot of NAWS. Blew it on the first day he had it back from the shop. Bad blue bottle...bad bad bad blue bottle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not a huge fan of it either.
If you set it up right and run a small amount of N20, it is pound for pound one of the best mods out there. IMHO.
FWIW, I've never been a fan of NAWS. My Pops had an old BMW 2002 with a 289 and 150 shot of NAWS. Blew it on the first day he had it back from the shop. Bad blue bottle...bad bad bad blue bottle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not a huge fan of it either.
If you set it up right and run a small amount of N20, it is pound for pound one of the best mods out there. IMHO.
How much do those panel filters cost anyways? I was checking around, and saw some carbon fibers that were quite pricey. Mines still stock, but i've only had it for 3 weeks. I want your numbers poneyboy!!!
Don't use a 25 year+ old car as an example. The 2002 is a historic car but none the less has fragile internals.
N2O can be a very reliable mod especially on turbo engines as the Nitrous can cool the combustion chamber by 50 or more degree celcius prior air/fuel compression and ignition, but if ofcourse it is installed by any Tom Dick or Harry it can be a very costly. Have a mechanic who has expirience with N20 install the correct injectors with a proper N2O in dash controller and you'll be set.
Now I've never driven an NSX but what does help track times is a better set of brakes. Having better brakes means more time with your foot on the gas and less time braking, translating to better times.
N2O can be a very reliable mod especially on turbo engines as the Nitrous can cool the combustion chamber by 50 or more degree celcius prior air/fuel compression and ignition, but if ofcourse it is installed by any Tom Dick or Harry it can be a very costly. Have a mechanic who has expirience with N20 install the correct injectors with a proper N2O in dash controller and you'll be set.
Now I've never driven an NSX but what does help track times is a better set of brakes. Having better brakes means more time with your foot on the gas and less time braking, translating to better times.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18tdelsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want your numbers poneyboy!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Modify away big boy. Comptech headers, Dali Straight Pipes, and Taitec GT Lightweight exhaust should get you around those numbers or even better.
Modify away big boy. Comptech headers, Dali Straight Pipes, and Taitec GT Lightweight exhaust should get you around those numbers or even better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRbroham »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ponyboy,
Your NSX is gorgeous!</TD></TR></TABLE>
"You like me, you REALLY like me."
Thanks bud.
Your NSX is gorgeous!</TD></TR></TABLE>
"You like me, you REALLY like me."
Thanks bud.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't use a 25 year+ old car as an example. The 2002 is a historic car but none the less has fragile internals.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Perception sometimes clouds reality for me. Still though, Shawney no likey.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">N2O can be a very reliable mod especially on turbo engines as the Nitrous can cool the combustion chamber by 50 or more degree celcius prior air/fuel compression and ignition, but if ofcourse it is installed by any Tom Dick or Harry it can be a very costly. Have a mechanic who has expirience with N20 install the correct injectors with a proper N2O in dash controller and you'll be set.</TD></TR></TABLE>
See above. For some reason, I'm thinking NAWS is too cheap. Or maybe in my perverted sense of tuning, a big hp increase has to accompany a serious hit in the pocketbook. But at least I don't have to keep hitting the NAWS shop for a refill...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now I've never driven an NSX but what does help track times is a better set of brakes. Having better brakes means more time with your foot on the gas and less time braking, translating to better times.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed. I think the stock system is good for a NSX that has shed 600-700lbs or for a guy that only tracks his NSX a few times a year. I'm not that guy so I added an aftermarket front system AND some kick *** Cobalt pads. Boo Yaa!
right back at you.
Perception sometimes clouds reality for me. Still though, Shawney no likey.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">N2O can be a very reliable mod especially on turbo engines as the Nitrous can cool the combustion chamber by 50 or more degree celcius prior air/fuel compression and ignition, but if ofcourse it is installed by any Tom Dick or Harry it can be a very costly. Have a mechanic who has expirience with N20 install the correct injectors with a proper N2O in dash controller and you'll be set.</TD></TR></TABLE>
See above. For some reason, I'm thinking NAWS is too cheap. Or maybe in my perverted sense of tuning, a big hp increase has to accompany a serious hit in the pocketbook. But at least I don't have to keep hitting the NAWS shop for a refill...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now I've never driven an NSX but what does help track times is a better set of brakes. Having better brakes means more time with your foot on the gas and less time braking, translating to better times.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed. I think the stock system is good for a NSX that has shed 600-700lbs or for a guy that only tracks his NSX a few times a year. I'm not that guy so I added an aftermarket front system AND some kick *** Cobalt pads. Boo Yaa!
right back at you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ponyboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
See above. For some reason, I'm thinking NAWS is too cheap. Or maybe in my perverted sense of tuning, a big hp increase has to accompany a serious hit in the pocketbook. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, anything that gives you better hp gain/cost ratio of $100/1HP, it's out of the ordinary. In silly NSX world that we live in that is...
ak
See above. For some reason, I'm thinking NAWS is too cheap. Or maybe in my perverted sense of tuning, a big hp increase has to accompany a serious hit in the pocketbook. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, anything that gives you better hp gain/cost ratio of $100/1HP, it's out of the ordinary. In silly NSX world that we live in that is...

ak
your car is ugly and slow. Christ I saw like 13 NSX's in front of the grocery store today.
I will trade you straight up for an E X O T I C 1994 Honda Accord DX Turbo/Nitrous!
2 door.
Cupholders.
Roll up race-spec adjustable windows.
Heat..and air conditioning!!!! (in a box in the trunk!)
whaddya say??
I will trade you straight up for an E X O T I C 1994 Honda Accord DX Turbo/Nitrous!
2 door.
Cupholders.
Roll up race-spec adjustable windows.
Heat..and air conditioning!!!! (in a box in the trunk!)
whaddya say??








