I posted this in the EG forum, but I think Tech my give me a better idea...

I just had this problem today on my hybrid JSRC'd Civic, and was wondering if anyone else has had this happen. When I drove my car this morning, everything started up with out a problem, it rev'd a little high be cause the engine wasn't warmed up, drove to friends house, stopped ther for about 10 minutes, then drove to another friends house. When I was exiting on a ramp, I put the car in nuetral an coasted up the ramp, but then i noticed my revs were revving up to about 2200 rpm then dropping down to about 1000 rpm, then jumping back up, and it kept repeating this. When I was in traffic, it did this very noticably. I am wondering if anyone else has this problem on a B18C1, I checked all my vacuum lines and everything is tight on and right where it is supposed to be. I can only think this could be my IAC( Idle Air Control valve) or my fast idle thermo valve...If anyone knows for sure, please let me know so I can make a trip to Acura dealership and pick up a new one and install it..thanks for the help...

 

Anyone?

 

spray out your IACV with carb cleaner see if that works

and the FITV is only used when the car is cold.

 

I noticed there was a little screen on there when i reinstalled it (IAC) on the JRSC , and I used brake-Kleen to clean it all out, but that was only about 5 months ago, could that little screen gotten plugged up so quickly?

I guess it is worth a try, I'll pick up some Brake Kleen and take off that IAC and hose it down with it...

Got a price quote from Acura today, $202 for a new IAC..

Thank you Kamin for your reply...

 

its not the screen, the valve inside could be sticking somehow.

 

back from dead....

Did you ever get this sorted out? My buddy's car just started doing the same thing....

We just troubleshot all the vac hoses. Didn't pull the IAC yet since it was too late today. Going to try some other things tomorrow.

 

yo blue civic, i'm having the same probelm with my civic, i have a jrsc d16z engine on my 94 honda civic and it revs up and down when i start the car on cold, but when it warms back up, it'll drive fine, it's been like this for a while now but never managage to fix the problem, if you figure out the problem let me know, but i am trying to figure it out also...so holla back....

 

i'm pretty sure it's the IAC valve, i'm gonna take mine apart and clean it and see what happens...i'll let you know..lates

 

So what's the verdict? Mine is doing the same thing your is, except it only revs from 1,000 to about 1,600 and it only does it for about the first 5 minutes of driving.

 

I took off the IAC valve and sprayed it out, it still does that!!!! anyone else knows?????

 

hey guys whats up,
experiencing the same problems with my b18c1,
no CEL's, good idle til it warms up and then then
searchs from about a 1000 to 2200. check out
http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/badidle.html, i used his
steps and found that my fast idle thermo valve
didnt shut off when the car warms up. it is designed
to do so when warm. anyways when i plug it with my
finger the idle returns to 700. so i guess i will have
to purchase a new fast idle thermo valve...
hope this helps..check that site


much props to ben ogle for the informative site

 

It was the fast idle thermo valve (that's the one under the throttle body right)? Anyway, he replaced and he's golden now.

 

yeah its directly under the tb,
once the cars warmed up,
put your finger on the bottom
of the two holes inside the tb,
if its still sucking then its
broken.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lintegras &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah its directly under the tb,
once the cars warmed up,
put your finger on the bottom
of the two holes inside the tb,
if its still sucking then its
broken. </TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe broken, but i read suggestions of adjusting the screw inside the valve.

 

That is eaxctly what I did. When I removed my FITV, I shook it and it made a clunking noise like something was loose inside. Sure enough, when I opned up my FITV, the big plastic plug wwas out of the threads, so I threaded it all the way in, put the Valve together again and reinstalled in on the throttle body. The idle was fixed and it only took about 15 to 30 minutes to do the job.

But I also spent $170 on a new IACV and $60 a new FITV...both which I didn't need...but at least i have spares now...

 

it's my turn to clean out the FITV...

 

So yea...i took my my IAC valve and cleaned it. Try starting up my car and it still did the same thing, next i took off my FITV, tighten the screw on it, and started the car.....the problem went away, So it's all good for now...thanks

 

FITV is 10 times more likely to fail than the IACV. Most of the time the large screw backs out. Put a little RTV on the screw and tighten it down. I've had this happen to both of my motors.

 

aw hell, so maybe thats whats been happening to my D15B7, it jumps from 100-1500. i don t suppose anyone has pictures of what they did? That link didn t work when i hit it the process sounds cut and dry, but im one of those guys who has to be completely sure of what he s doing. thanks

 

Pull off the FITV. There is a cover on one end held on by two screws...remove this. There will be a large white plastic "screw" with a slot [like for a flat head] and a hole in the middle. There will be something sticking up through the hole. Just tighten the screw back down. In my case [both times] the screw had completely backed out, so when I pulled the plate off, the screw came tumbling out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blue-Civic-Hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is eaxctly what I did. When I removed my FITV, I shook it and it made a clunking noise like something was loose inside. Sure enough, when I opned up my FITV, the big plastic plug wwas out of the threads, so I threaded it all the way in, put the Valve together again and reinstalled in on the throttle body. The idle was fixed and it only took about 15 to 30 minutes to do the job.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I had the same problem when I first did my swap. I screwed the white screw back in and everything has been fine for 4 months.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pull off the FITV. There is a cover on one end held on by two screws...remove this. There will be a large white plastic "screw" with a slot [like for a flat head] and a hole in the middle. There will be something sticking up through the hole. Just tighten the screw back down. In my case [both times] the screw had completely backed out, so when I pulled the plate off, the screw came tumbling out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and this is underneath the throttle body?

 

Yep. My D series motor had one coolant line going to it, and my B series motor had two. No electrical connections either.

 

is thee coolant line attached to it or by it? id go look right now but it is soooo cold out sorry for all the what must be insanely obvious questions

 

it's attached to the valve.