Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR
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Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's.
I've been getting a fairly good number of PM's and such in the last few months regarding my launch techniques and limited mods. Maybe I can answer a few questions in this thread and put out my opinion for further reference so that I can link here instead of always having to carry out long PM's that no one else can read.
Please note that I am NOT some drag pro but I have good experience with my fairly stock R. I've racked up more than 200 1/4mi passes with it and have achieved times that are above average for a semi stock R.
All times mentioned are in regards to racing on true street tires (as in NOT drag radials).
1. What does a bone stock ITR run?
A normal ITR in ideal conditions around sea level generally traps in the 94-96mph range. The ET is going to be up to track condition and the driver. With a good driver and track a stock R is capable of SOLID mid 14's, easily dipping into the lower 14's on the best runs with an experienced driver.
If your car is trapping in that range but it isn't running the times you want it's either the track or the driver. Sorry but the car is running just fine.
For your first time at the track be content if your R breaks into the high 14's. Its not the end of the world if it doesn't run what you think it should your very first time at the track. There are SO many factors involved in getting that "perfect" run. My first time at the track I had to struggle for a a 14.7@93.5mph and most of my runs that night were in the 15's.
2. I have a stock R and want to pull mizzad fast times to impress chicks. What do I do?
Buy a Z28. J/K but seriously, the key is PRACTICE, PRACTICE and more PRACTICE. Do not substitute mods for driving skill.
A: Learn to read and understand the ENTIRE time slip. You don't know how many guys I've met, that are at the track regularly, that still don't know what it means when I say "yeah, but what did you trap? what was your 60'?", all they are concerned with are the numbers at the end and not the ones in between which are far more important. Sit down and break apart a good and an almost as good run. Notice the differences in time and speed at each point and try to think why the car would be doing what it is at the point where things don't match up. Your own noggin and that little slip can tell you a lot more than what Joe Bob the redneck thinks you should do on the next run.
B: Pull a good 60' THAT IS IN THE POWER BAND! If you can't do this then a fast time isn't happening. 3rd gear VTEC, mad fast shifting skillz, lucky underwear or a picture of your girlfriend covering the tach doesn't make up for a bad launch.
LAUNCH IT HIGH AND MODULATE THE CLUTCH AND GAS. This is how I've pulled my best 60' and 1/4mi times. My best launches were around 5,500-7000rpms ON TRUE STREET TIRES. Those people that say that is too high for street tires just haven't practiced enough or don't know what they are talking about. This is why I say practice is the key. I hold my revs at the determined rpm and bring the clutch part way up to the point that I know it is going to start engaging. When I launch I do not apply more throttle, the throttle foot stays the same, if not releases some, as I smoothly but still quickly engage the clutch. When I feel the car will have traction I peg it the floor. The goal is to gain as much traction off the line as possible but to keep the car above 6,000rpms in the process.
Dependant on track conditions this will not always be possible. I know it wasn't for me. This you just have to learn. Start from a lower rpm and work your way up.
Now some of you are saying "but can't I pull good 60' without having to launch so high?". Yes I use to do it all day long but then guess what? That makes our high strung cars have to pull through the dead spot of the power band which is just wasted slow "hurry up and get to VTEC you torque less POS" yelling time.
Example: Some guy hooks a 2.2 60' from 3,000rpms, another does it from 6,000rpms...... guess who wins.
Oh and for all of you wondering I have pulled 2.0 and a bunch of 2.1 60' times on true street tires (not drag radials) with such methods. That should be enough evidence that it works.
C: Learn to shift fast. No not how you think you've been shifting. You banging the shifter at lighting speed means diddly squat. A four year old spaz power ranger wannabe could out shift us all if that was the requirement.
Fast shifting is all in FAST FEET COORDINATION. You can press the clutch in then 3 days later ****** the shift lever at Jedi speed into second gear (thinking you're shifting fast), go to sleep, eat, whatever, then slam your foot off the clutch. Your hand speed was fast. The actual shift took three days, a nap and a meal.
Right now sitting at the computer fire off the fastest front snap kick you can muster with your left leg. None of that pressing down letting off crap, a nice sharp kick, fast as you can there and back. Congrats, you just did a really fast shift. Now time that with your Jedi hands, learn that you can actually miss gears now because you really weren't shifting that fast before and subtract a touch from your ET.
Don't get too happy though your 60' is FAR more important.
I'll Continue with part 2 in a bit and add revisions as I see fit.
Modified by ActiveAero at 3:35 PM 10/19/2003
Modified by ActiveAero at 10:01 AM 4/25/2004
Modified by ActiveAero at 9:28 PM 7/11/2004
Modified by ActiveAero at 6:49 PM 7/26/2007
Please note that I am NOT some drag pro but I have good experience with my fairly stock R. I've racked up more than 200 1/4mi passes with it and have achieved times that are above average for a semi stock R.
All times mentioned are in regards to racing on true street tires (as in NOT drag radials).
1. What does a bone stock ITR run?
A normal ITR in ideal conditions around sea level generally traps in the 94-96mph range. The ET is going to be up to track condition and the driver. With a good driver and track a stock R is capable of SOLID mid 14's, easily dipping into the lower 14's on the best runs with an experienced driver.
If your car is trapping in that range but it isn't running the times you want it's either the track or the driver. Sorry but the car is running just fine.
For your first time at the track be content if your R breaks into the high 14's. Its not the end of the world if it doesn't run what you think it should your very first time at the track. There are SO many factors involved in getting that "perfect" run. My first time at the track I had to struggle for a a 14.7@93.5mph and most of my runs that night were in the 15's.
2. I have a stock R and want to pull mizzad fast times to impress chicks. What do I do?
Buy a Z28. J/K but seriously, the key is PRACTICE, PRACTICE and more PRACTICE. Do not substitute mods for driving skill.
A: Learn to read and understand the ENTIRE time slip. You don't know how many guys I've met, that are at the track regularly, that still don't know what it means when I say "yeah, but what did you trap? what was your 60'?", all they are concerned with are the numbers at the end and not the ones in between which are far more important. Sit down and break apart a good and an almost as good run. Notice the differences in time and speed at each point and try to think why the car would be doing what it is at the point where things don't match up. Your own noggin and that little slip can tell you a lot more than what Joe Bob the redneck thinks you should do on the next run.
B: Pull a good 60' THAT IS IN THE POWER BAND! If you can't do this then a fast time isn't happening. 3rd gear VTEC, mad fast shifting skillz, lucky underwear or a picture of your girlfriend covering the tach doesn't make up for a bad launch.
LAUNCH IT HIGH AND MODULATE THE CLUTCH AND GAS. This is how I've pulled my best 60' and 1/4mi times. My best launches were around 5,500-7000rpms ON TRUE STREET TIRES. Those people that say that is too high for street tires just haven't practiced enough or don't know what they are talking about. This is why I say practice is the key. I hold my revs at the determined rpm and bring the clutch part way up to the point that I know it is going to start engaging. When I launch I do not apply more throttle, the throttle foot stays the same, if not releases some, as I smoothly but still quickly engage the clutch. When I feel the car will have traction I peg it the floor. The goal is to gain as much traction off the line as possible but to keep the car above 6,000rpms in the process.
Dependant on track conditions this will not always be possible. I know it wasn't for me. This you just have to learn. Start from a lower rpm and work your way up.
Now some of you are saying "but can't I pull good 60' without having to launch so high?". Yes I use to do it all day long but then guess what? That makes our high strung cars have to pull through the dead spot of the power band which is just wasted slow "hurry up and get to VTEC you torque less POS" yelling time.
Example: Some guy hooks a 2.2 60' from 3,000rpms, another does it from 6,000rpms...... guess who wins.
Oh and for all of you wondering I have pulled 2.0 and a bunch of 2.1 60' times on true street tires (not drag radials) with such methods. That should be enough evidence that it works.
C: Learn to shift fast. No not how you think you've been shifting. You banging the shifter at lighting speed means diddly squat. A four year old spaz power ranger wannabe could out shift us all if that was the requirement.
Fast shifting is all in FAST FEET COORDINATION. You can press the clutch in then 3 days later ****** the shift lever at Jedi speed into second gear (thinking you're shifting fast), go to sleep, eat, whatever, then slam your foot off the clutch. Your hand speed was fast. The actual shift took three days, a nap and a meal.
Right now sitting at the computer fire off the fastest front snap kick you can muster with your left leg. None of that pressing down letting off crap, a nice sharp kick, fast as you can there and back. Congrats, you just did a really fast shift. Now time that with your Jedi hands, learn that you can actually miss gears now because you really weren't shifting that fast before and subtract a touch from your ET.
Don't get too happy though your 60' is FAR more important.
I'll Continue with part 2 in a bit and add revisions as I see fit.
Modified by ActiveAero at 3:35 PM 10/19/2003
Modified by ActiveAero at 10:01 AM 4/25/2004
Modified by ActiveAero at 9:28 PM 7/11/2004
Modified by ActiveAero at 6:49 PM 7/26/2007
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From: Fayetteville, AR
Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's.
Good stuff and looking forward to the rest AA...
I have a question: is your home track the only one you have been to? Have you been able to hit 2.1 60's and low 14's at other tracks? I ask because I hear all the time about how this or that track "sucks" but I don't understand how one track sucks and another doesn't. Surface? Cleanliness? Altitude?
I have a question: is your home track the only one you have been to? Have you been able to hit 2.1 60's and low 14's at other tracks? I ask because I hear all the time about how this or that track "sucks" but I don't understand how one track sucks and another doesn't. Surface? Cleanliness? Altitude?
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From: Ohio
Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (tsunami_zc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tsunami_zc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good write up 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Agreed.
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From: Charleston, SC, USA
Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (ActiveAero)
you should see if smitdog wants to add to this.. pulling the same times as you without cams..
still though, those are awesome times.. you two should have some sort of showdown..
still though, those are awesome times.. you two should have some sort of showdown..
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Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (mstewar)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should see if smitdog wants to add to this.. pulling the same times as you without cams..
still though, those are awesome times.. you two should have some sort of showdown..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock Cams own j00000......
Great write up though.... The R is not made to be drag raced but damn does it do well when mated with a driver. I drag my R b/c no matter what track time either 1/4 or AutoX or Road Race, I am there and happy!
Showdown between us two sounds good, who is going to come to who though.......
still though, those are awesome times.. you two should have some sort of showdown..
</TD></TR></TABLE>Stock Cams own j00000......
Great write up though.... The R is not made to be drag raced but damn does it do well when mated with a driver. I drag my R b/c no matter what track time either 1/4 or AutoX or Road Race, I am there and happy!
Showdown between us two sounds good, who is going to come to who though.......
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Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (ActiveAero)
PART 2:
3. It's my first time at the track. I keep peeing my pants, crying uncontrollably and for some reason I seem to be driving like crap. What gives?
Yeah I thought it was going to be a piece of cake too. Then this crowd of people appeared, 600hp drag cars started showing up everywhere, this announcer started talking and this blasted flashing light starting thing apparently cast a spell which erased all knowledge of my ability to drive my car. Lights flash, brain goes dead, right foot down, left foot up. Did I shift back there? What did I launch at? Did I even launch? Have I even ran my car yet? What's a car?
It's called being nervous and distracted. The first thing I learned is to FORGET THE STINKING LIGHT AND THE GUY BESIDE YOU until you get the hang of it. Remember your reaction time HAS NO EFFECT ON YOUR ET. You can sit at the light for a week if you want and still pull the best run of the night. Don't worry about reaction times your first night. Just focus on a good launch and not missing shifts.
Did you get paired up with John Force this run? That is one of the most annoying things ever. Let the 600hp open header Camaro launch ahead of you. It makes sure you don't get creamed and you get to focus on your run once he is done sliding around the track. Some tracks don't let normal "slow" cars get lined up with "race" cars but plenty of others do so this might or might no apply to you.
Remember it takes practice. Get the jitters out then start having some real fun.
4. Tire stuff.
Run high pressure in the back to keep it from squatting/unloading front. Lower the front pressure just enough to were you are getting good traction. Don't drop it down to 3psi or something. Remember you are on street tires. The lower the pressure the more the rolling resistance. Find the proper balance. A stiffer sidewall tire will generally be run at lower pressure for obvious reasons. Check them right before runs for consistency, pressure can change throughout the night.
Tip: For us without compressors fill them all the way up at a gas station and work you way down during the night. Don't bleed them low from the beginning because if it's too low you are stuck with it all night.
I generally ran around 20-22psi.
DO A DRY BURNOUT. Notice I said DRY, not a wet. Go in the water box and you might as well make your next run on ice if you are using street tires unless you REALLY melt all of the water off. Some people will argue about this but when they pull better 60' times than me I'll listen. Driving between runs you pick up dirt and other crap so doing a quick dry burnout will clean them off simple as that and depending on the street tire a little heat might actually help. I usually pull the ebrake but it's not really necessary.
5. Do your normal maintenance such as spark plugs,etc more frequent if you want the best times. Mine always loved a fresh set of plugs. Little story: I was at the track one night and the car was "only" trapping 96mph. I knew something was up so checked the plugs and they were semi-fouled out. I ran to the store and picked up a new set, installed them in the parking lot, and my trap speeds bumped back up to 99mph. I kid you not. A well running car means everything.
6. What's some simple stuff I can do?
Easy. Take out your seats and spare tire, remove the power steering belt, and unhook the exhaust. All free and they worked for me well.
7. Ok I've got everything down, launching good, and taking care of the car. What should I expect?
We are now saying you have a well running R that know by heart and you can launch/shift the fool out if it. You are also blessed with a good track, location and weather.
Bone stock- 14.2-14.4
Free mods-13.9-14.2 (weight reduction)
Bolt-ons-13.6-13.9 (depending on weight)
Some personal times of note.
14.03@99.35mph- AEM CAI, free mods listed. This was before I had ever landed a 2.1 60' as well, but was due to the fact that I launched in the power band. It does
make a difference.
14.3@97mph- AEM CAI, full interior, 115lb passenger.
14.4@95 in 80 degree heat with extremely high humidity. Just AEM CAI and no exhaust.
14.3@96mph- Full interior, AEM CAI, JDM DC header modified to fit stock exhaust, 200lb passenger.
13.8@98mph with a 2.0 60'. AEM CAI, JDM DC header, stock exhaust connected and running on 22lb CRV rims.
and the big 13.7@100.42mph. Same mods as the 13.8 listed above just a better night.
End notes: These times are not from some mizzad driving gift on my part. It came from simple practice and figuring out what works and what doesn't.
Modified by ActiveAero at 7:01 PM 7/26/2007
3. It's my first time at the track. I keep peeing my pants, crying uncontrollably and for some reason I seem to be driving like crap. What gives?
Yeah I thought it was going to be a piece of cake too. Then this crowd of people appeared, 600hp drag cars started showing up everywhere, this announcer started talking and this blasted flashing light starting thing apparently cast a spell which erased all knowledge of my ability to drive my car. Lights flash, brain goes dead, right foot down, left foot up. Did I shift back there? What did I launch at? Did I even launch? Have I even ran my car yet? What's a car?
It's called being nervous and distracted. The first thing I learned is to FORGET THE STINKING LIGHT AND THE GUY BESIDE YOU until you get the hang of it. Remember your reaction time HAS NO EFFECT ON YOUR ET. You can sit at the light for a week if you want and still pull the best run of the night. Don't worry about reaction times your first night. Just focus on a good launch and not missing shifts.
Did you get paired up with John Force this run? That is one of the most annoying things ever. Let the 600hp open header Camaro launch ahead of you. It makes sure you don't get creamed and you get to focus on your run once he is done sliding around the track. Some tracks don't let normal "slow" cars get lined up with "race" cars but plenty of others do so this might or might no apply to you.
Remember it takes practice. Get the jitters out then start having some real fun.
4. Tire stuff.
Run high pressure in the back to keep it from squatting/unloading front. Lower the front pressure just enough to were you are getting good traction. Don't drop it down to 3psi or something. Remember you are on street tires. The lower the pressure the more the rolling resistance. Find the proper balance. A stiffer sidewall tire will generally be run at lower pressure for obvious reasons. Check them right before runs for consistency, pressure can change throughout the night.
Tip: For us without compressors fill them all the way up at a gas station and work you way down during the night. Don't bleed them low from the beginning because if it's too low you are stuck with it all night.
I generally ran around 20-22psi.
DO A DRY BURNOUT. Notice I said DRY, not a wet. Go in the water box and you might as well make your next run on ice if you are using street tires unless you REALLY melt all of the water off. Some people will argue about this but when they pull better 60' times than me I'll listen. Driving between runs you pick up dirt and other crap so doing a quick dry burnout will clean them off simple as that and depending on the street tire a little heat might actually help. I usually pull the ebrake but it's not really necessary.
5. Do your normal maintenance such as spark plugs,etc more frequent if you want the best times. Mine always loved a fresh set of plugs. Little story: I was at the track one night and the car was "only" trapping 96mph. I knew something was up so checked the plugs and they were semi-fouled out. I ran to the store and picked up a new set, installed them in the parking lot, and my trap speeds bumped back up to 99mph. I kid you not. A well running car means everything.
6. What's some simple stuff I can do?
Easy. Take out your seats and spare tire, remove the power steering belt, and unhook the exhaust. All free and they worked for me well.
7. Ok I've got everything down, launching good, and taking care of the car. What should I expect?
We are now saying you have a well running R that know by heart and you can launch/shift the fool out if it. You are also blessed with a good track, location and weather.
Bone stock- 14.2-14.4
Free mods-13.9-14.2 (weight reduction)
Bolt-ons-13.6-13.9 (depending on weight)
Some personal times of note.
14.03@99.35mph- AEM CAI, free mods listed. This was before I had ever landed a 2.1 60' as well, but was due to the fact that I launched in the power band. It does
make a difference.
14.3@97mph- AEM CAI, full interior, 115lb passenger.
14.4@95 in 80 degree heat with extremely high humidity. Just AEM CAI and no exhaust.
14.3@96mph- Full interior, AEM CAI, JDM DC header modified to fit stock exhaust, 200lb passenger.
13.8@98mph with a 2.0 60'. AEM CAI, JDM DC header, stock exhaust connected and running on 22lb CRV rims.
and the big 13.7@100.42mph. Same mods as the 13.8 listed above just a better night.
End notes: These times are not from some mizzad driving gift on my part. It came from simple practice and figuring out what works and what doesn't.
Modified by ActiveAero at 7:01 PM 7/26/2007
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Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (mstewar)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should see if smitdog wants to add to this.. pulling the same times as you without cams..
still though, those are awesome times.. you two should have some sort of showdown..</TD></TR></TABLE>
My 13.7 was with stock cams, stock exhaust, full interior, on 22lb CRV rims. Thankfully I made this faq so I won't have to say that to people that can't read sigs very well.
Oh and were do you think Smitdog got the "stock cams own joo" from
< use to have it in his sig.
still though, those are awesome times.. you two should have some sort of showdown..
</TD></TR></TABLE>My 13.7 was with stock cams, stock exhaust, full interior, on 22lb CRV rims. Thankfully I made this faq so I won't have to say that to people that can't read sigs very well.
Oh and were do you think Smitdog got the "stock cams own joo" from
< use to have it in his sig.
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Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (ActiveAero)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PART 2:
A stiffer sidewall tire will generally be run at lower pressure for obvious reasons.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shouldn't it be the other way around? I mean with a stiff sidewall and low pressure wouldn't that just induce wheelhop? Or is it that, because it is stiffer, you run a lower pressure to let it have more flex?
A stiffer sidewall tire will generally be run at lower pressure for obvious reasons.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shouldn't it be the other way around? I mean with a stiff sidewall and low pressure wouldn't that just induce wheelhop? Or is it that, because it is stiffer, you run a lower pressure to let it have more flex?
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From: Propaganda City, USA
Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (ActiveAero)
How do you counter wheel hop?
Thats my biggest problem, first time to the track on my very first run I pulled a 14.8@96 with a 2.3 60 (3500rpm clutch dump). That was the best time of the night and I could not better it cause of wheel hop. Launching any higher resulted in shaking my glove box open. Any tips for wheel hop?
Thats my biggest problem, first time to the track on my very first run I pulled a 14.8@96 with a 2.3 60 (3500rpm clutch dump). That was the best time of the night and I could not better it cause of wheel hop. Launching any higher resulted in shaking my glove box open. Any tips for wheel hop?
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From: Georgia
Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (Fac3Man)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fac3Man »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you counter wheel hop?
Thats my biggest problem, first time to the track on my very first run I pulled a 14.8@96 with a 2.3 60 (3500rpm clutch dump). That was the best time of the night and I could not better it cause of wheel hop. Launching any higher resulted in shaking my glove box open. Any tips for wheel hop?</TD></TR></TABLE>
get motor mounts and dont dump the clutch...ride it out (slip it) instead, and launch at higher rpms (i launch at 5500 using this method).
another thing that was not mentioned is suspension. proper suspension can help out too.
Thats my biggest problem, first time to the track on my very first run I pulled a 14.8@96 with a 2.3 60 (3500rpm clutch dump). That was the best time of the night and I could not better it cause of wheel hop. Launching any higher resulted in shaking my glove box open. Any tips for wheel hop?</TD></TR></TABLE>
get motor mounts and dont dump the clutch...ride it out (slip it) instead, and launch at higher rpms (i launch at 5500 using this method).
another thing that was not mentioned is suspension. proper suspension can help out too.
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Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (uncleben)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uncleben »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good stuff and looking forward to the rest AA...
I have a question: is your home track the only one you have been to? Have you been able to hit 2.1 60's and low 14's at other tracks? I ask because I hear all the time about how this or that track "sucks" but I don't understand how one track sucks and another doesn't. Surface? Cleanliness? Altitude?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good question. Yes the track is going to matter in some cases. Of course the altitude and geographical locations will always have an effect on any cars power output. The main concern is track prep and traction. My track is considered to be a good drag strip, but even they can be extremely lacking in the prep part on test and tune night. When you have staging guys that keep letting idiots on street tires drive through the water box pouring water halfway down the track for everyone else there are going to be problems. However its going to happen everywhere. Some people say I must drive on a fast track, I say I drive on a good one when prepped right, and have gone alot. There have been weeks strait were my track wouldn't hook worth a crap, then others it would be great. If a track sucks and everyone knows it and you run slow at it, don't whine and complain that everyone else runs on a fast track. That's just my opinion.
Oh and no I have never ran on another track yet. For crude comparison sake of my track I have never seen a stock or even lightly modded LT1 Z28/TA, nor a stock Lightning break into the 13's, if that means anything to anyone.
I have a question: is your home track the only one you have been to? Have you been able to hit 2.1 60's and low 14's at other tracks? I ask because I hear all the time about how this or that track "sucks" but I don't understand how one track sucks and another doesn't. Surface? Cleanliness? Altitude?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good question. Yes the track is going to matter in some cases. Of course the altitude and geographical locations will always have an effect on any cars power output. The main concern is track prep and traction. My track is considered to be a good drag strip, but even they can be extremely lacking in the prep part on test and tune night. When you have staging guys that keep letting idiots on street tires drive through the water box pouring water halfway down the track for everyone else there are going to be problems. However its going to happen everywhere. Some people say I must drive on a fast track, I say I drive on a good one when prepped right, and have gone alot. There have been weeks strait were my track wouldn't hook worth a crap, then others it would be great. If a track sucks and everyone knows it and you run slow at it, don't whine and complain that everyone else runs on a fast track. That's just my opinion.
Oh and no I have never ran on another track yet. For crude comparison sake of my track I have never seen a stock or even lightly modded LT1 Z28/TA, nor a stock Lightning break into the 13's, if that means anything to anyone.
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Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (Disco Monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Disco Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
get motor mounts and dont dump the clutch...ride it out (slip it) instead, and launch at higher rpms (i launch at 5500 using this method).
another thing that was not mentioned is suspension. proper suspension can help out too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. Like he said the key to not getting wheel hop is modulation of the clutch.
In regards to street tires, pressure, and sidewall flex it required more pressure to be bled from the hard sidewall tires before flexing to provide more contact patch, but not by much. I guess you could say they are just less resistant to change in that regard. I could see wheel hop being an issue with lower pressue and stiff sidewalls if you shock the drive train by dumping the clutch, but that is not my launch method.
Another side note. Even with my extremely high launches on the stock clutch (200 passes riding it at high rpm) I did not change it until 53,000mi and it was still grabbing good. Just trying to show that when I slip the clutch it is smooth, but quick.
get motor mounts and dont dump the clutch...ride it out (slip it) instead, and launch at higher rpms (i launch at 5500 using this method).
another thing that was not mentioned is suspension. proper suspension can help out too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. Like he said the key to not getting wheel hop is modulation of the clutch.
In regards to street tires, pressure, and sidewall flex it required more pressure to be bled from the hard sidewall tires before flexing to provide more contact patch, but not by much. I guess you could say they are just less resistant to change in that regard. I could see wheel hop being an issue with lower pressue and stiff sidewalls if you shock the drive train by dumping the clutch, but that is not my launch method.
Another side note. Even with my extremely high launches on the stock clutch (200 passes riding it at high rpm) I did not change it until 53,000mi and it was still grabbing good. Just trying to show that when I slip the clutch it is smooth, but quick.
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Re: (FourDoorTypeR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourDoorTypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey ActiveAero, is this Brock? If so, this is Roach from AERC, A-Speed, etc. Nice write-up either way. I still wanna know how you trap damn near 100mph stock!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I trapped 100.89mph (best trap yet) with only 173whp so you tell me
I trapped 100.89mph (best trap yet) with only 173whp so you tell me
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From: 2003 Cobra
Re: Drag FAQ for close to stock ITR's. (ActiveAero)
very good write up man..i went to the track the other night trying to practice some of the things you mentioned above and its tricky but once you get the hang of your method its FUN..
my first time running with my car (00 Si w/ a AEM short ram) was a 15.7@88..2nd run was 15.5@89..bye the end of the night i was at a 15.3@90.8 w/ a 2.35 60'..i wish i could have gotten better 60' but thats in the works..a HUGE factor like Active mentioned before is to stay in the powerband from the get go
adaM
my first time running with my car (00 Si w/ a AEM short ram) was a 15.7@88..2nd run was 15.5@89..bye the end of the night i was at a 15.3@90.8 w/ a 2.35 60'..i wish i could have gotten better 60' but thats in the works..a HUGE factor like Active mentioned before is to stay in the powerband from the get go
adaM
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From: Leeds, AL, USA
Re: (ActiveAero)
Was that with no exhaust on the car? I know our weight differs a good bit so I'm taking that into consideration. My best run so far was only a 14.603 @ 94.01, but that was when I wasn't as comfortable with the car. I've gotten better at launching since then and have only run 1/8 mi so I don't know how I'd compare now. My most recent run was 9.29 @ 77.57 with a 2.196 60'.
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Re: (FourDoorTypeR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourDoorTypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was that with no exhaust on the car? I know our weight differs a good bit so I'm taking that into consideration. My best run so far was only a 14.603 @ 94.01, but that was when I wasn't as comfortable with the car. I've gotten better at launching since then and have only run 1/8 mi so I don't know how I'd compare now. My most recent run was 9.29 @ 77.57 with a 2.196 60'.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No that was with the exhaust on the car. What were the conditions and where are you launching from/what kind of tires?
Replying to the guy with the Si, those are good times, but can be even better once you nail the 60'. Like I said being in the powerband makes a big difference, but is very tricky. Just keep working at it. It takes alot of practice, a good night at the track, and a touch of luck.
No that was with the exhaust on the car. What were the conditions and where are you launching from/what kind of tires?
Replying to the guy with the Si, those are good times, but can be even better once you nail the 60'. Like I said being in the powerband makes a big difference, but is very tricky. Just keep working at it. It takes alot of practice, a good night at the track, and a touch of luck.
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From: Leeds, AL, USA
Re: (ActiveAero)
It was about 70-75 degrees, I was at Steele near Gadsen (I know, don't laugh, sucky 1/4mi track), and I'm running Dunlop FM-901s. I'm not cutting bad 60' times now (2.1-2.2), but the times aren't that much better.