What is your camber and what car is it and why.

90 hatch 2.75 front
2.25 rear(want a little more)

actually these were on my crx and I plan to bring the same over to the new car.


Modified by MAYHEM at 5:06 AM 9/24/2003

 

neg 1.75 front
neg 1.5 rear

Because I seem to get good even tire wear with those settings, and I want my tires to last as long as posible because I hate spending all my money on tires

This is with Azenis, 35 to 36 psi front 34 psi rear cold.

 

2.7 negative front
1.8 negative rear

 

2.2 front (skunk 2s all the way neg)
1. somethin rear

soon to be more

 

2.2 degrees negative all four corners.

Am I sensing a sudden, new willingness to answer questions like this, rather than point peoplt to search or faq?

 

how did you guys came up with these numbers?
don't flame me, i'm just curious.
Any links i could read or something?

 

i think this guy (MAYHEM) is trying to see how other honda autoXer's set their cars up, and maybe get some opinions as to why people think X set-up works better than Y set-up.

that being said, i run ~1.8 in the front and ~1.5 in the rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carl_aka_carlos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think this guy (MAYHEM) is trying to see how other honda autoXer's set their cars up, and maybe get some opinions as to why people think X set-up works better than Y set-up.

that being said, i run ~1.8 in the front and ~1.5 in the rear.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, BTW what are stock specs for your especific car and why did you decided to run what you're running?

 

carl_aka_carlos: Well you are some what correct. I like to do my own research. And take my experience in autoxing and take views of other and make my decision.
You never learn anything if you dont ask any questions. I hope you dont see a problem in how I do my research and if you do that is too damn bad.

I would never set me car up in the same maner that someone else does especially over the internet. The amount of variables is endless. I.E. Driving style, track surface.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZERO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how did you guys came up with these numbers?</TD></TR></TABLE>

By taking tire temperatures after I leave the track.

 

2.5 front
2.2 rear
5.0 caster front
Wanting for 2.7-3.0 in the front.

My alignment guy hates doing the camber on my car. I slotted the upper control arms were the bolt goes through for the bushing. I roughed up the metal around the bolt and nut afterwards, using my angle grinder so that the bolt/nut could get a really good grip on the arm. 225/45-15 Kumhos, 670 lb springs fr., 20 events (about 150 runs), plus about 10-15,000 miles of street driving. No slipping at all of the adjustment.

 

jaker , what camber kit are you using?
what model khumos are you running as well? thanks

 

I used to run -2* all around when I had my kumho 712's. Now, since I want my tires to last longer than 6 months, I have everything set to 0* on yokohama h4's and it turns better than ever, which is really wierd

 

-2 front
-2.1 rear
These values came about during my corner weighting... the car "naturally" ended up at these values once it was corner-weighted, and it seemed like a reasonable amount of camber. Also, to those that still believe camber eats your tires, stop! It's the toe, that's right, the TOE that adversly affects (or takes prominence) in the wear of your tires. Check your toe settings... lowering a car only to add a camber kit to correct back to 0 seems counterproductive, IMO.

 

The guy I get my corner weighing done also does the toe and camber with his cool gadgets I specifically asked him to set it around 2.5 negative front. The rears I just used washers to get less camber in the rear. I did have 2.2 negative in the rear before.

 

3" drop on my integra = ??? camber.

 

-2.5 - front (Skunk2s)
-1.0 - rear (just from lowering da kaa)

Great tire (V700s) wear all weekend at Road Atlanta. with this setup, but my car is 2200lbs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2.2 degrees negative all four corners.

Am I sensing a sudden, new willingness to answer questions like this, rather than point peoplt to search or faq?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think it has something to do with the question being short, concise, specific, and to the point. he hasn't asked "whats the best camber setting for road race? i'm trying to set my car up faster for canyon racing, y0!" but what we are running.

nate

 

oh and BTW....unless you are running a camber kit, the only way to get more camber outta late model honda's (excluding DC5 and EP3) is to lower the car.

cAmber cuRv3 yo!

 

As I explained in the post, I'm not running a camber kit per se. I slotted the OEM upper control arms so they can be adjusted in and out on the stock bolts.

The tires are Kumho Ecsta V700s.

 

I'm running -2.3* front (Skunk2 kit) and -1.3* in the rear (Ingalls kit). I may add more negative camber to both ends of the car.

Here is a question: What will changing (increasing) spring rates do to the optimum camber setting?

 

I run approximately -1deg on the front daily (no camber adjustment yet). After an autocross run, I'm running hot on the outsides. Next season I intend to start at 2deg and move to 3deg if necessary. It's all about trial and error.

 

225/45-15 hoosier a3so3

neg 2.7 front
neg 2.5 rear

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running -2.3* front (Skunk2 kit) and -1.3* in the rear (Ingalls kit). I may add more negative camber to both ends of the car.

Here is a question: What will changing (increasing) spring rates do to the optimum camber setting?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you put stiff enough springs on you may actually need to *add* some camber back in, stand the wheels up more, b/c you may not be generating enough body roll to place the tire flat, and thereby you will cord the insides before you wear the outsides (assuming you don't have crazy toe settings up front)

 

Is the idea behind having more negative camber on the front than the rear to reduce understeer? I have - 2 all around right now, but in some conversations at the Glen this weekend, I'm thinking about increasing it. Should a pure racecar have more than just -2? Should I keep front and rear the same?

Matt