Have you guys heard of this bar before and would you recommend using it rather than a JDM ITR Rear Strut tower bar. Also it comes in aluminum and steel. The aluminum is 50% lighter but costs a little more. Any insight and recommendation into this is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

I bought an aluminum one before. For me, the actual width of the bar was tiny. The welds were pretty good. Overall, I would give it 7.5 out of 10.

If you get a carbing R.S.T.Bar, then you have to cut your rear plastic panel. If you use a JDM R.S.T.Bar, you don't have to heck your plastic panel.

Between the two choices, I would get the JDM R.S.T.Bar. (But, I would get a Mugen bar over JDM R.S.T.Bar.)

 

Here are some pictures of it in my car:
Very solid...

 

how much did you get that bar for?

 

I went with the Carbing aluminum rear strut bar. My reasoning was 1.) it's lighter (woodeedoo) and 2.) easier to stick my hand in the rear strut area to adjust damping on the Buddy Clubs.

 

i got the steel RSTB and is also pretty light. the aluminum one must be like a feather or something.

question for you guys that have the carbing bar or JDM RSTB --> do you notice any squeaks coming from the bar especially when it is cold or when goin up a drive way at an angle?

what did you torque the shock tower bolts down to with the RSTB? stock torque spec is 36 lb-ft (no RSTB). is it necessary to make it any higher?

i originally tightened the heck out of it and noticed that it squeaked a bit (didn't have a torque wrench at the time). yesterday, tightened it to about 38 lb-ft and with the back seat out, it seems there are more squeaks than ever (could be that with the seat back up, it masked some of the noise before too). i even applied a bit of silicone grease between the shock tower, RSTB, and nut, but it only helped a little.

any ideas on how to squelch the squeaks?
TIA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2.) easier to stick my hand in the rear strut area to adjust damping on the Buddy Clubs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's why you get Teins with EDFC dawg!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's why you get Teins with EDFC dawg!</TD></TR></TABLE>

we're not all used to hitting switches like you

 

carbing is a great strut bar. It does not have any bends or "weak" points like some do so they're stiff.

carbing, cusco, mugen, neuspeed.. those are about the only strut bars I'd consider. But all in all, any of them will do their job as long as they don't have ridiculous holes.

 

whar'd you guys get your carbing bars?
is there a website that i could check out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mor ber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whar'd you guys get your carbing bars?
is there a website that i could check out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.jdmspecperf.com/pro...rbing

 

I setup the original group purchase for HT and I love my Carbing bars. The Mugen rear bar is actually a copy of the Carbing bar that has been on the market since '92. Carbing also manufactures the OMP and Rigid bars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

http://www.jdmspecperf.com/pro...rbing

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks bro

...anybody have that front bar with the 3 point design?
was it worth the price?

 

Just got my Carbing installed and I noticed that the new ones are more "polished" than before.

And of course, I immediately ended up scratching the heck out of it. Not by choice and I'm not sure how it happened but it's more noticeable than a scratched older version of Carbing. Just a warning FYI to people who might care about this kind of stuff.

 

there is no other bar better than carbing IMO....i swear up and down by it

whether you go steel or aluminum you really cant go wrong; most people go aluminum only for the bling factor (yes that was much of the reason why i have aluminum too ) but hey at least i can still look good after losing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRinEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is no other bar better than carbing IMO....i swear up and down by it

whether you go steel or aluminum you really cant go wrong; most people go aluminum only for the bling factor (yes that was much of the reason why i have aluminum too ) but hey at least i can still look good after losing </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah Thanks to Leo i'll look good too if i ever lose.

 

i have a Benen front strut 3 pt bar. does the same as the carbing.....almost and it's like half the price!!

 

you know, ASSUMING that front bars even help, the benen one is poorly triangulated.... but im sure the rigidity effects of it vs the carbing one is minimal if anything at all when its translated to the driver.

even though I have the carbing bars myself on my civic, i doubt they even work as advertised. I'll be bringing my car to a lab soon to do some chassis testing, and im gonna test a few bars out to see if any of these bars work to begin with...

ever think about how its odd that everyone scrutinizes intakes and what not for .3HP? and no one ever bothered to even test the claims of a $200-300 bar?

either way, i;ll get it done and post something up hopefully within the next 2 months. we tested a WRX STi and found that no strut bars, under chassis braces, and floor bars did anything to the chassis rigidity.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dunce11r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you know, ASSUMING that front bars even help, the benen one is poorly triangulated.... but im sure the rigidity effects of it vs the carbing one is minimal if anything at all when its translated to the driver.

even though I have the carbing bars myself on my civic, i doubt they even work as advertised. I'll be bringing my car to a lab soon to do some chassis testing, and im gonna test a few bars out to see if any of these bars work to begin with...

ever think about how its odd that everyone scrutinizes intakes and what not for .3HP? and no one ever bothered to even test the claims of a $200-300 bar?

either way, i;ll get it done and post something up hopefully within the next 2 months. we tested a WRX STi and found that no strut bars, under chassis braces, and floor bars did anything to the chassis rigidity.</TD></TR></TABLE>if you doubt they work then why do you buy them...thats pretty stupid...im gonna buy green eggs and ham because the eggs are green ...but are they really green ( poor analogy ) but if you didnt think something worked then why would you buy it.personally i like the carbing bars

 

i bought them before joining the company i work for now. kinda regret buying them now since ive learned better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dunce11r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i bought them before joining the company i work for now. kinda regret buying them now since ive learned better. </TD></TR></TABLE>
what company do you work for now??

 

automotive consulting firm.... we consult with OEs and tier1 suppliers. we were doing some chassis design for a company, and came up with a few developments... and we have an STi as a company car, and we decided to fool around with the new development and tried to incorporate a piece into the car... to see if our piece would stiffen the chassis at all... and it did... then we did chassis torsion tests on a few other strut bars, and even welded bars here and there to mimic some designs that we couldnt get our hands on... and none of them yielded results as claimed in teh ads.

but in no way am i saying that 100% for sure current market chassis braces have no effect on ITRs and Civics.... it just didnt do anyhting for WRXs... but once i get lab time again, i'll test the bars on teh civic and what not..... maybe some other cars.

oh yeh, we dont develop products or manufacture them, or sell... we were just putting our designs to the test.... so dont ask me about if the company im workin for is going to release a product to increase chassis strength... bc we're jjust not that kind of company.... HOWEVER, we are in talks with some OEs and large manufacturers to license the designs to them... but for that reason alone, i cannot talk about details of the piece.

 

oh boy ! So what is Carbing proclaiming? I'm sorry if people with grocery-getter spring setups fail to feel the difference but on my 20kg/16kg setup I noticed a huge difference in rigidity after the bar was installed.

Could you give us a comprehensive performance listing of your company's findings?


Modified by Dee at 9:10 AM 11/9/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dunce11r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... then we did chassis torsion tests on a few other strut bars, and even welded bars here and there to mimic some designs that we couldnt get our hands on... and none of them yielded results as claimed in teh ads.

but in no way am i saying that 100% for sure current market chassis braces have no effect on ITRs and Civics.... it just didnt do anyhting for WRXs... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Without dismissing your research as it relates to the Subaru, I think it's important to remember that the ITR is a design that was first put on the road in its basic form in 1993.

When the ITR was introduced in 1996, its chassis was bolstered and re-enforced in a number of places because racers were already proving that when you up the spring rates and sway bar rates, and then run around for thousands of miles on R-compound tyres, you are simply going to cause the chassis to flex and break.



The ITR is a wonderful little car, but it is based on very old technology, and it will benefit relatively more from strut tower bars and other <u>legitimate</u> chassis stiffening tools than cars that were designed the past couple of years.

Many mechanics will give you the hilarious example that there are many DC2 cars that, when jacked up fully in the air from one jack point, the doors will no longer open and close.

This doesn't happen with modern designs like the EP3, which are so solid that a lot of people track them without strut bars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LillDragun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a Benen front strut 3 pt bar. does the same as the carbing.....almost and it's like half the price!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

so do i, and here's the kicker... we can open the mc resevoir without taking it off