Anybody can suggest me how much is maximum displacements can i work on my B18C R block? i'm intend to go for 21L. Is it quite safe for my block? where can i get it from? Is CROWER or TODA is best kits for me?

 

**** if get the toda stroker kit get some killer vtec cams
and u will be in business

 

b18c R????? whats that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cw98typer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b18c R????? whats that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

im guessing the ITR?

 

TOda, Crower, Eagle, they are all great kits. The only bad thing is long stroke motors dont like to be rev'd up tight(9000+). There are many other ways to get great horsepower outof that motor.

My dad always told me "There is no replacement for displacement" while hammering his 429.

 

IMO stroker kits suck.

We have high revving engines, and stroking them reduces their reliability because when you stroke the engine you create a worse rod/stroke ratio, which increases lateral forces on the cylinder walls, which in turn decreases willingness to rev and reliability.

I'd much rather get my cc from BORE.

Sleeved and bored 1.8L blocks can get to 2.0 with ease and still want to rev quick and high.

 

i agree with that for the most part....but the good thing about stroking is, you don't have to rev as high to make as much power. which in turn is a little better, b/c revs can seriously do damage.

 

Not to mention there are some people that have had NIGHTMARE experiences with sleeving blocks to 2.0 liters.

stroker kits can be very powerful and reliable if set up and used correctly.
too bad they are so expensive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by owen_the_soyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to mention there are some people that have had NIGHTMARE experiences with sleeving blocks to 2.0 liters.

stroker kits can be very powerful and reliable if set up and used correctly.
too bad they are so expensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
however stroking puts more stress on the cylinder walls, so sleeving would be a good idea either way u go

 

do both an be happy

 

hahaha. i just re-read the title and he wants 'more bigger' displacement. LOL. ..... um... so anyways...

 

thats where you are wrong on that one, bore is not safe, when u bore u will have bigger cylinder walls, then u will need bigger pistons, then u will need to resleeve, after by doing that if u are using your stock rods that will causes your piston to shoot through the cylinder walls, instead of stroking up, it strokes to the wall, causing it to put a hole through there, with the stroker kit, heres what you get u get custume crank, custume rods, pistons, get a new deck surface, about a quarter inch, so with those custume parts and getting a new deck surface u will have no problem with rod stroke errors ( to the pplz with b20s and lsvtec your crank cant handle that high of RPM so if i were you guys stroke it )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miles85916 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats what your are wrong on that one, bore is not safe, when u bore u will have bigger cylinder walls, then u will need bigger pistons, then u will need to resleeve, after by doing that when u using your stock rods that will causes your piston to shoot through the cylinder walls, instead of stroking up, it strokes to the wall, causing it to put a hole through there, with the stroker kit, heres what you get u get custume crank, custume rods, pistons, get a new deck surface, about a quarter inch, so with those custume parts and getting a new deck surface u will have no problem with rod stroke errors </TD></TR></TABLE>
hahaha. your funny. i can see u dont know wat your talking about, and are just repeating wat u hear.
obviously when you bore to 1.8 or 2.0, resleaving is a nessesity cuz the wall would be too thin. and the bigger crank does put more stress on the walls cuz its shorter rods and with the bigger stroke, the piston goes down further and gets pushed more sideways, get it?!

and i dont see any deck plates that u speak of included here http://www.todaracing.com/prod....html
http://www.crower.com/cat/impo...shtml

so the rod/stroke ratio is much worse

the toda website even says that the R/S ratio will be changed to 1.54 from the b16s near perfect 1.74

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miles85916 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats where you are wrong on that one, bore is not safe, when u bore u will have bigger cylinder walls, then u will need bigger pistons, then u will need to resleeve, after by doing that if u are using your stock rods that will causes your piston to shoot through the cylinder walls, instead of stroking up, it strokes to the wall, causing it to put a hole through there, with the stroker kit, heres what you get u get custume crank, custume rods, pistons, get a new deck surface, about a quarter inch, so with those custume parts and getting a new deck surface u will have no problem with rod stroke errors ( to the pplz with b20s and lsvtec your crank cant handle that high of RPM so if i were you guys stroke it )</TD></TR></TABLE>



Whatever.

Of course you sleeve the block when you bore up to and over 84.5mm to acieve 2.0L from bore.

Stroking ruins the best part of the Honda engine - the ability to sustain high revs and make power there.

Go back to reading Import Racer! magazine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



Whatever.

Of course you sleeve the block when you bore up to and over 84.5mm to acieve 2.0L from bore.

Stroking ruins the best part of the Honda engine - the ability to sustain high revs and make power there.

Go back to reading Import Racer! magazine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey i like that magazine

 

He wants more bigger displacement...up to 21 litres!!! Seriously..get it bored out....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cw98typer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b18c R????? whats that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

JDM Integra type R motors are stamped "B18c" as opposed to the usdm "B18c5"

but both are type R motors, hence B18C-R.

kind of an incorrect term, but whatever.

 

what u dont get is stroking the motor is the best way to go, cost alot more but its more safe, why use oem rods? when u can get custume made rods with its best rod ratio and custume crank to go with it then get the block deck out, i seen motors accemble with bore and resleeve out to 85mm on a b20 block, over rev boom there goes the block, i migh look like a dumb *** but i seen alot of resleeve and bore out motors get blowen away like putting a hole in a wall. but u are right with the bigger the stroke it will be unsafe, but when building motors who will be dumb enough to go lower then 1.74 on the rod ratio. i build motors, we machine motors so dont hammer me again. i know i am speaking to the moderate ( i know what i am talking about, i'm not a dumbass )
and do u always believe in what you read from a magazine? thats all fawken bull **** to tell u the truth, you learn by experiment and creative work, learn from your mistakes, lifes a gamble sometimes u have to take the risk

 

"what u dont get is stroking the motor is the best way to go, cost alot more but its more safe, why use oem rods? when u can get custume made rods with its best rod ratio and custume crank to go with it then get the block deck out, i seen motors accemble with bore and resleeve out to 85mm on a b20 block, over rev boom there goes the block, i migh look like a dumb *** but i seen alot of resleeve and bore out motors get blowen away like putting a hole in a wall. but u are right with the bigger the stroke it will be unsafe, but when building motors who will be dumb enough to go lower then 1.74 on the rod ratio. i build motors, we machine motors so dont hammer me again. i know i am speaking to the moderate ( i know what i am talking about, i'm not a dumbass )
and do u always believe in what you read from a magazine? thats all fawken bull **** to tell u the truth, you learn by experiment and creative work, learn from your mistakes, lifes a gamble sometimes u have to take the risk"-

You're correct, you look like a dumbass. Spelling words correctly will go a long way to solving that problem.

 

Hey. let me translate this post so people might actually be able to read and comprehend it, okay? After each line I translate I'll also rebutt against your "argument" as well.

You don't understand. Stroking the engine is the way to go. It costs a lot more, but it is safer.

No you don't understand. Stroking is for engines that already don't rev high, like good old V8s and whatnot. Unless you are building a full race engine and can afford rebuilds, stroking A B Series is a BAD idea. Now if you bore and stroke an engine and add a deck riser then that's great, but it is certainly very expensive and I doubt that a lot of guys here could afford such things for a street car.

First of all I must comment on this horrible run-on sentence and absolutely deplorable spelling. Who the **** can't spell CUSTOM? Anyways here's the translation:

Why use OEM rods? You can get the block decked. Then add a custom crank and rods to achieve the best possible rod ratio. I've seen engines that were ASSEMBLED by going the 85mm bore route on a B20 base block. Soon as the owner overevs then BOOM the block is destroyed.

I might look like a dumbass, (that's the ******* truth) but I've seen a lot of resleeved and bored out engines get destroyed by having their cylinders walls blown open.

Well I don't know where to start when trying to combat such stupidity. You are correct sir - you do look like a dumbass. First of all "decking" a block is usually when you get the top of the block machined down a bit to make it flat again to ensure that the head and block seating surfaces are perfect. I think you're trying to say that if you add a deck riser plate or simply buy a block like Dart unit that's already taller, then add a custom crank, then add custom rods you'll be fine. Well no **** that will be fine, but it is hellafied expensive.

We were simply talking about a simple stroker kit. I said that those suck, because IMO they do. In theory they ruin what is the best part about the small displacement, high revving blocks that Honda produces.

Then you jump in saying stroking is better. Then you follow up your argument with some off the wall addition of a totally deck plated block which was never mentioned in the first place.

Ask any REAL engine builder such as Jeff at Import Builders, Steve Sakai, or Jeff (Lip) on H-T and they'd agree that a simple stroker kit is bad news for a Honda block. Unless you have a cylinder head and top end components to compliment such a set-up, it will run like **** and not last very long at all.

Also boring an engine will also be more condusive to running oversized valves too. Big rpm race engine builders choose bore before they choose stroke - this is a fact. With the extended blocks on the market now though, and custom cranks out there the possibilities are awesome. You can have a huge bore and tall-*** cylinders with a short stroke or go a big bigger on stroke but still have a reliable engine.

Hondas make power up top - that's their design. Why stroke it and reduce the reliability in those high revs? It's just plain stupid to do a "stroker kit" by itself.

You are correct that a bigger stroke will be unsafe. What engine builders will be stupid enough to go lower than the 1.74 rod ratio that is ideal?

Holy **** where do I begin? First of all I already knew I was right about stroking. Why in the hell would you argue this long only to concede that I was right?

And your "who is dumb enough to go lower than 1.74 rod ratio" thing is absolutely retarded.



One of Honda's best ever engines, the B18C5, has a 1.58 r/s ratio from their factory. But what do they know about building an engine, right? 1.74 is a nearly perfect number, but it's not the absolute best either.


Liar.

I know I'm speaking to the moderator. I know what I'm talking about. I'm not a dumbass.

That's debatable. You cannot even spell or use the English language to your advantage to even convey a point on an internet message board. Seriously how do people like you that cannot spell or even have a basic understanding of grammar succeed in life?

I think we can actually read this one.

[b]What are you talking about? I was telling you to go back to reading your magazines because you sound like some kid just regurgitating (repeating ) bullshit you've read or head somewhere. I don't gain knowledge from magazines. I was saying that you sound like you do.

How about you take your own advice and learn from your mistakes by simply dropping this subject. Lay low for a while so nobody realizes that you're the same guy that got completely ruined on this topic.



Have a nice day.

 

B18C5-EH2, did you have to go to translation school?

LMFAO

 

Maybe we should call that Rice-abonics

 

I think this translation is so hilarious.
Can you guys modify the "quote" function and add a "translation and quote" button for rejects like this one?
LOL.

of course a $15,000 deck riser, stroked and high compression 2.2 liter B series block with a superbly ported head will be an awesome setup, but who dumps that much into a longblock alone!?!??!?! For a STREET CAR??!?!?!

hahahhahaaaaaaaaa ooohohoohoohhhh eeehehehhehheheeeeeeee ahahahhaaaaa!
holy crap this thread is fun.

 

damn good reply!!!

 

Dock points from that moron. If you bore a B18 to 84mm, you should have displacement around 1.9L yet not sacrifice the ability to rev high. Maybe he will get it now.