I figured I would try it myself so I can answer questions about this better And because my car is two different animals when its hot/humid outside and when its cool/cold. Since no IC is coming in the near future, nitrous isnt happening yet, and Im not sold on WI as of yet...I wonder if this will make a difference.





Materials used were $6 3" ducting, $1.50 4"--->3" Reducer, and $1 3" connector. And some duct tape and a couple zip ties The Reducer acts as sort of a velocity stack...it isnt terrific, but itll do. Better than just having a 3" ducting inlet, I suppose. A speaker port will probably do better, but I dont feel like ordering one.

I understand the ducting sucks because it isnt smooth, but this is really a ghetto modification...not trying to make major power here. Just looking to make driving during the hot day better in any way possible...throttle response suffers and it doesnt pull nearly as hard when its hot outside. So $9 for possible help cant hurt.

And from the totally innacurate butt dyno, it didnt hurt at all. Throttle response seemed better, and overall I would say more grunt. I really feel as if it made a difference...a noticeable difference. I got that "oh yeah, this is what it feels like!" feeling during the day today, which I normally only get on cold nights or during fall/winter. I guess if you drove a JRSC'd car for a while, you would know what I mean about the sluggishness during the heat.

I think it was worthwhile. Absolutely worthwhile. $9 and not much time...and the difference is noticeable. Heat really kills us JRSC guys in the summertime, this seems to be a way to help that, albeit minor. Im going to try it out on a normal hot day (its been pretty cool here) and see if I notice anything.

 

No workie : ( I wanna see

 

watch out for suicidal pigions and cats with that big ol' thing in your bumper!

 

my homie did this to his car a long time ago... back in 97, to his eclipse. he told me that it was a great DIY (and cheap) cai. i thought it was legit, then i learned the truth... it doesn't do ****.... i guess it's cool as a vent, and not for a power adder.

but i don't see why you had to cut out your front end... boggles my mind!!!

 

I knew I was in for it when I posted this

First off, the bumper was already cut for foglights a long long time ago. Second, people seem to like to scratch my front bumper, as it has lots of gashes from idiots who cant park, and I dont care about it. So hacking it isnt an issue. As soon as Im out of this city, the bumper is coming off anyway.

Second, my setup is a bit different, as my intake temps are sky high compared to an NA car or an intercooled turbo/sc car. You may have "found out" it didnt do ****, maybe by actual physical tests, dyno results, or maybe you just woke up one day and decided it was worthless. I dont know.

I do know there are lots of variables. Placement of the inlet is a major one. Tubing material is another. Bends and restrictions/crimps in the tubing is another. Design of the inlet is another...all of this can make or break this ghetto, minimal gain modification. All I know is the car is normally noticeably, very noticeably sluggish in the heat. Today it wasnt bad. Not that the butt dyno should be used as factual evidence, but Im used to daily driving this setup for a long time in different weather, and I know the "damn this sucks" feeling I normally get, and I didnt get it today

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newgsrdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and I know the "damn this sucks" feeling I normally get, and I didnt get it today </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, I know how that is. I have this mod, too, and it's friggin hot here, and I know it made a difference. I actually run the stock airbox and route the tubing into the bottom of the airbox, so that the only air that's going into the engine is coming from the front of the car via the dryer hose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ernald711 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> then i learned the truth... it doesn't do ****.... </TD></TR></TABLE> yes, i guess mugen, comptech, and other companies don't know what the hell theyre doing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thaiphob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">watch out for suicidal pigions and cats with that big ol' thing in your bumper!</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahaha

 

it will actually help u gain power.. but only if yr car is traveling at a fast speed already.. roughly 60mph+. if you're going slower than that.. that wont really do anything. It works even better when you're going faster. unfortunately, there's no way to dyno this.
If you're into highway races.. i actually think this well help you alot.. but on my car, i wouldnt do it.. looks reallie ghetto

 

nick we know it seems gaster butyou tell everyone it was 10-15 degrees cooler today than the past few weeks

j/k i am glad it worked out

 

Haha it definitely was.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newgsrdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im going to try it out on a normal hot day (its been pretty cool here) and see if I notice anything.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I included it man, dont worry! I dont care if it works or not...I dont have an agenda here. Just to clear anything up, Im not saying this is some sort of serious power modification here...its a cheap way to route cooler air to the filter, which probably depending on your setup can make a noticeable difference.

 

What can work for brake ducts can work for intakes

Have you ever considered putting a small heatshield between the filter and your headers? Had a friend do the same thing with some lightweight alluminum sheets and pipe insulation.

Kinda ghetto looking, but touching his intake pipe with / with out it was a pretty huge difference. (Took it off, took it for a drive, put it on, took it for a drive)

 

Interesting...Ill check that out.

I was going to fabricate a box much like the guy did in the other thread...that seems to work pretty well. Ive seen another JRSC guy do this and had similar butt results, although still no IAT's to back it up!

We'll have a better idea once and for all, in terms of temperatures, when I get a chance to datalog any differences Im skeptical myself...but who knows.

 

That looks very clever and sounds like it works farily well however what are the chances of it sucking water hydrolocking your engine?

 

Not much of a chance that I see. You can always poke a hole in the bottom of the inlet or ducting if youre worried about it. There is a gap between the filter and the ducting...all its there to do is route cold air, not perform as an extension to the intake. Hydrolocking requires submersion of the filter...which isnt happening when its sitting in my engine bay

 

nice DIY ghetto mod... i've been thinking of doing this... i'll probably do it once i'm boosting... don't see a point in it right now... but yeah... nice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Threatcon13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> yes, i guess mugen, comptech, and other companies don't know what the hell theyre doing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Unlike the Mod here. Mugen Comptech and other companies as you mentioned have a fully Closed system. If you think taking some dryer hose and routing it to ONE SIDE of your filter is going to add any HP then you have another thing coming. It's a Great Idea if you close the system.

I have extensive man hours logged with intakes of this kind. Lots of guys in Japan use the ole dryer hose mod, but 9 times out of ten the system is Closed some how. Even if it is using the Stock Air box Like someone mentioned above.

Our Prototype Started out like this with a Make shift aluminum box riveted around the filter. There were significant changes depending on the FILTER we used.
During our research we found that the Engine bay temps were cooled significantly during high speed runs and Highway driving. Only an 11 degree difference in temp will yeild 1% Hp gain and depending on the weather outside... at highway speeds there was not even a 3% gain over a Short ram system. We toyed with different filters and found that the AEM filter was the secret Ingredient to the CAI not so much that but the AIR Horn Design. Akimoto Funnel Ram filter was also tested and produced good numbers. The final prototype was streamlined with mandrel bent aluminum tubing powder coated and routed into a Carbon Fiber enclosure. The Inlet had a Carbon Fiber Horn shaped inlet. With this combo there were decent gains to be had but the filter was the last item on the list. Never Got to that cause funding was lost after Comptech released thier Ice box.
The Dryer Hose is a inexpensive DIY but does VERY little unless the System is closed. Close the System and get a good Filter. Also make sure the inet funnels the air into the hose. There should be no gaps around the inlet. One more thing: there is little to NO risk of Hydro Lock with this meathod filter would have to be in the water for this to happen. A few splashes from time to tim will not lock your engine. Even still highly unlikely with this system

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Threatcon13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> yes, i guess mugen, comptech, and other companies don't know what the hell theyre doing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course they know what they're doing. That's why they route cold air through a closed path into the throttle body. What they DON'T do is put a piece of dryer hose in the engine bay hoping that cold air will somehow find its way into the throttle.


Hey- I have nothing against dryer hose. If you want to put it in your car, and it makes you feel happy, then great. Who knows, at 130 mph, maybe some cold air is actually getting rammed up into the engine bay through there.

Don't believe for a second that this is the equivalent of a CAI, though. Air always follows the path of least resistance. That is why Comptech, Mugen, etc. know to keep the air path sealed, because otherwise the intake just draws it in from the engine bay.

 

This cost me $9. NINE DOLLARS. I also mentioned that I intend to close the filter as soon as I get a chance to rig something up.

I did this to see if it made a difference. So I had experience with this. I mentioned that it isnt the most effective thing, I mentioned that Im not looking for a huge difference, I mentioned it isnt the greatest thing, I just did it for ***** n giggles.

I dont want a CAI. I dont want long tubing. I want cooler air with my 3" short ram. This is a cheap way to try and see if I can do that without spending a lot of money for piping, a velocity stack and a box. I think for $9, its worth a shot to make a crude attempt at what Im doing.

EDIT: Just in case you cant see, it isnt just the dryer hose poking out. I have a reducer on there that I cut up to act as a velocity stack to encourage airflow. I looked at everyones methods, read the criticism of them, and decided to try and rig something taking their criticism into account. Not having a velocity stack is one, placement of the inlet is another, having a smooth connection from the stack to the ducting is another (hence the connector listed in the parts). This is by no means a "cold air intake" alternative but thats not what Im looking for.

 

I think the Comments were not directed to you but to threatcon*** Who seems to compare this mod with the likes of Mugen and Comptech. Trying to point out the Difference between your mod and the Ice box and Mugen to show that the statement made was for nothing.

 

Gotcha. I think he was just referencing the idea of routing cold air to the filter, thats all. Not necessarily that this is the same thing as an Icebox...as we all can see, this is tooootally ghetto

Anyone have any ideas for what we can use for a cheap box to enclose the filter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newgsrdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gotcha. I think he was just referencing the idea of routing cold air to the filter, thats all. </TD></TR></TABLE> basically, yes..but its all good.

 

cheap box? yea what im trying to do. if you go the the junkyard, and look in some of the camaros, (newer ones...96 up maybe?) they havea little shield in the shape of a filter with the side open and it has a rubber piece connected to it makin it its own cold air. Kinda cool thing i saw, but it wouldn't fit around my filter.


ever seen utz's pretzels?


i thought about robbing this barrel from these pretzels...cutting out the bottom and have the duct go into the top and the filter into the bottom..of course it would melt...so maybe try making a fiberglass mold, that would be fat...

if you think of anything else, lemme know, im still lookin and workin on stuff...

 

I saw someone a while back take a small rubbermaid trashcan and cut it in half, then put a hole for the intake and the duct. You would need some sort of cover for the top, however, and Im not sure how well that would hold up to heat. I imagine as long as it doesnt come into direct contact with the motor/header it should be fine to withstand underhood temps.

 

Go Nick!

Alas I'm blessed (or cursed) with an Icebox, but fear not, I did perform a similar mod. (and you've probably seen this pic a million times by now).

Note the [turn signal]



Some may think the front is full of real estate, but it fills up quickly. I've debated cutting the other turn signal and making matching brake ducts, whilst finding another way to route air to the airbox. For the 98+ front ends...you can go ahead and cut the plastic cross-bracing in the front airdam. If you wish, then put some gutter guard (black) in there to protect. I have these going in shortly, so engine cooling is going to start being a concern.

For those who want a less visable modification (although may slightly effect ground clearance), cut into the bottom splash guard and run your tubing from there. It's basically the same spot most CAI's pick up air.

Once again, a HUGE for a mod who spends the coin to try out this.