What is the best FLYWHEEL to get?
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What is the best FLYWHEEL to get?
What is the best flywheel out there on the market that is at resonable price? Is chrom-moly good or aluminum better. What is the best pound to get?( like 8lbs,7.5lbs..etc.)
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From: Mugen trend, Viorent Grip
Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (redturbocivic)
i have a ACT chromoly flywheel..its very reasonably priced...
there is a 12.5lbs and a 8 lbs version for race app. i have the 12.5 and its great. for the price i highly recommend it.....
there is a 12.5lbs and a 8 lbs version for race app. i have the 12.5 and its great. for the price i highly recommend it.....
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Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (p1ccoloz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p1ccoloz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've heard good things about Fidanza </TD></TR></TABLE>
Comptech also
</TD></TR></TABLE>Comptech also
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Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (95 Gizzer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 Gizzer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Comptech also</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, comptech
Modified by Sukebei Oni at 1:24 PM 8/17/2003
Comptech also</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, comptech
Modified by Sukebei Oni at 1:24 PM 8/17/2003
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From: DC2R
Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (Sukebei Oni)
Things you might want to consider when thinking about a lighter FW and HOW LIGHT to go....
When you reduce the weight the engine will rev faster, but you will loose some torque. So the lighter you go the more torque you loose, but the faster the engine will rev.
What's more important to you? Well I personally recommend not going lighter than 9 pounds about. to me it seems to have the best of both worlds. That is my basis for saying that. Now I am sure there will be people who boast that their friends car or their brother's car have a 3 pound FW and he's been driving around on it for 10 months with no problem.
That's fine and that is not my point. I can only say what's good for me in my Opinion. That is all this is an Opinion.
Now I have driven a car with a 7 pound FW and it seemed to struggle to go up hills. This is another thing you might want to consider before jumping at the Lightest. REMEMBER Each FW ata certain weight was made for a specific Application. For a GOOD Price a 12 pounder would be GREAT. Improvement over stock without sacraficing so much torque and drivability.
I think Cromoly is a better material than Aluminum for a FW. Don't go with the CHEAPEST FW on the Market. Go with one that has been proven. If you have to pay a bit more then save a bit longer. I have herad Horror stories of Cheap FW Breaking apart and pieces breaking through bell housing and into the Passenger compartment.
Cromoly is Light but it is Stronger than Aluminum and a 9 pound Cromoly wheel is Just as Light as a 9 pound Aluminum wheel.
The More expensive wheels are very well balanced and this is VERY IMPORTANT. Sometimes you pay for quality.
Spoon make s 4.1 kg and I would recommend it Highly.
When you reduce the weight the engine will rev faster, but you will loose some torque. So the lighter you go the more torque you loose, but the faster the engine will rev.
What's more important to you? Well I personally recommend not going lighter than 9 pounds about. to me it seems to have the best of both worlds. That is my basis for saying that. Now I am sure there will be people who boast that their friends car or their brother's car have a 3 pound FW and he's been driving around on it for 10 months with no problem.
That's fine and that is not my point. I can only say what's good for me in my Opinion. That is all this is an Opinion.
Now I have driven a car with a 7 pound FW and it seemed to struggle to go up hills. This is another thing you might want to consider before jumping at the Lightest. REMEMBER Each FW ata certain weight was made for a specific Application. For a GOOD Price a 12 pounder would be GREAT. Improvement over stock without sacraficing so much torque and drivability.
I think Cromoly is a better material than Aluminum for a FW. Don't go with the CHEAPEST FW on the Market. Go with one that has been proven. If you have to pay a bit more then save a bit longer. I have herad Horror stories of Cheap FW Breaking apart and pieces breaking through bell housing and into the Passenger compartment.
Cromoly is Light but it is Stronger than Aluminum and a 9 pound Cromoly wheel is Just as Light as a 9 pound Aluminum wheel.
The More expensive wheels are very well balanced and this is VERY IMPORTANT. Sometimes you pay for quality.
Spoon make s 4.1 kg and I would recommend it Highly.
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From: Somewhere Here, Here
Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (p1ccoloz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p1ccoloz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've heard good things about Fidanza </TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (Spoond TEG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoond TEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Things you might want to consider when thinking about a lighter FW and HOW LIGHT to go....
When you reduce the weight the engine will rev faster, but you will loose some torque. So the lighter you go the more torque you loose, but the faster the engine will rev.
What's more important to you? Well I personally recommend not going lighter than 9 pounds about. to me it seems to have the best of both worlds. That is my basis for saying that. Now I am sure there will be people who boast that their friends car or their brother's car have a 3 pound FW and he's been driving around on it for 10 months with no problem.
That's fine and that is not my point. I can only say what's good for me in my Opinion. That is all this is an Opinion.
Now I have driven a car with a 7 pound FW and it seemed to struggle to go up hills. This is another thing you might want to consider before jumping at the Lightest. REMEMBER Each FW ata certain weight was made for a specific Application. For a GOOD Price a 12 pounder would be GREAT. Improvement over stock without sacraficing so much torque and drivability.
I think Cromoly is a better material than Aluminum for a FW. Don't go with the CHEAPEST FW on the Market. Go with one that has been proven. If you have to pay a bit more then save a bit longer. I have herad Horror stories of Cheap FW Breaking apart and pieces breaking through bell housing and into the Passenger compartment.
Cromoly is Light but it is Stronger than Aluminum and a 9 pound Cromoly wheel is Just as Light as a 9 pound Aluminum wheel.
The More expensive wheels are very well balanced and this is VERY IMPORTANT. Sometimes you pay for quality.
Spoon make s 4.1 kg and I would recommend it Highly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what are you talking about, how do you know that the lighter flywheel made the motor have less torque. if anything it helps the motor rev up easier. so your saying if i get a really heavy flywheel then i will gain torque, yeah ok. having a light flywheel helps the motor rev up easier and more freely. and give more enigne braking, since there is less rotating mass to keep the wheels spining. the only time you might have more torque is when you shift and the clutch ingauges, for there would be more spining wheight to start the wheels turing. think of it this way, you can only run so fast, now add a 30lbs backpack, you can still only accelerate and run at the same or less speed, but you do have more weight behind you when you run into someone. after the ingaugement, the force from the extra weight gets used up. i doubt you gain torque from turing somthing thats heavier, you just have more rotating mass.
When you reduce the weight the engine will rev faster, but you will loose some torque. So the lighter you go the more torque you loose, but the faster the engine will rev.
What's more important to you? Well I personally recommend not going lighter than 9 pounds about. to me it seems to have the best of both worlds. That is my basis for saying that. Now I am sure there will be people who boast that their friends car or their brother's car have a 3 pound FW and he's been driving around on it for 10 months with no problem.
That's fine and that is not my point. I can only say what's good for me in my Opinion. That is all this is an Opinion.
Now I have driven a car with a 7 pound FW and it seemed to struggle to go up hills. This is another thing you might want to consider before jumping at the Lightest. REMEMBER Each FW ata certain weight was made for a specific Application. For a GOOD Price a 12 pounder would be GREAT. Improvement over stock without sacraficing so much torque and drivability.
I think Cromoly is a better material than Aluminum for a FW. Don't go with the CHEAPEST FW on the Market. Go with one that has been proven. If you have to pay a bit more then save a bit longer. I have herad Horror stories of Cheap FW Breaking apart and pieces breaking through bell housing and into the Passenger compartment.
Cromoly is Light but it is Stronger than Aluminum and a 9 pound Cromoly wheel is Just as Light as a 9 pound Aluminum wheel.
The More expensive wheels are very well balanced and this is VERY IMPORTANT. Sometimes you pay for quality.
Spoon make s 4.1 kg and I would recommend it Highly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what are you talking about, how do you know that the lighter flywheel made the motor have less torque. if anything it helps the motor rev up easier. so your saying if i get a really heavy flywheel then i will gain torque, yeah ok. having a light flywheel helps the motor rev up easier and more freely. and give more enigne braking, since there is less rotating mass to keep the wheels spining. the only time you might have more torque is when you shift and the clutch ingauges, for there would be more spining wheight to start the wheels turing. think of it this way, you can only run so fast, now add a 30lbs backpack, you can still only accelerate and run at the same or less speed, but you do have more weight behind you when you run into someone. after the ingaugement, the force from the extra weight gets used up. i doubt you gain torque from turing somthing thats heavier, you just have more rotating mass.
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From: DC2R
Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (newgsrdriver)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newgsrdriver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lighter is better. No need to pay for Chromoly.
Fidanza is cheap, well designed, and proven.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which is Lighter a 9 pound Aluminum FW or a 9 Pound Cromoly FW?
Too much of a good thing is NOT GOOD. A FW that is too light is not good for street use. there is a MEDIAN AREA
To answer the other question:
A lighter FW allows for faster engine reving and Faster acceleration and Deceleration. Better throttle response will come of this as well.
Smoothe Idel will suffer.
As for Over all Power I would say that there is NO EFFECT on Peak Power. A heavier FW will put power lower. With a Lighter FW you will NOTICE a decrease on off the line Power but it is replaced up top.
Less rotating Mass will make it easier for te car to REV but Conversly Make it easier for your car to stall.
Taking off from a Start is more difficult with a Lighter FW. Works on the same principles as the Lighter wheels/Tire combo.
(energy=(1/2) mass x velocity-squared) or(.5 x m x v^2) If you look at the Equation we can see that 1/2 Mass is DIRECTLY Proportional to Energy Meaning If all else is constant you increase the MASS and you encrease the energy. This is also an illustration of my previous statement about MOVING power output around. We can see if the MASS is Decreased then the Velocity (RPMs) Must INCREASE intoder to put out the same power with the heavier FW. In reverse if the FW is Heavier you don't have to rev as high to realize the power.
Not trying to say that a Lighter FW is not a good upgrade just KNOW what you re changing before you go out to get the Lightest FW. One more thing to NOTE. Our engines have a REV Limit so in that Case there is a Limit to how hight your V value can be and therefore a LIMIT to how much power you can output with a very LIGHT FW
Fidanza is cheap, well designed, and proven.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which is Lighter a 9 pound Aluminum FW or a 9 Pound Cromoly FW?
Too much of a good thing is NOT GOOD. A FW that is too light is not good for street use. there is a MEDIAN AREA
To answer the other question:
A lighter FW allows for faster engine reving and Faster acceleration and Deceleration. Better throttle response will come of this as well.
Smoothe Idel will suffer.
As for Over all Power I would say that there is NO EFFECT on Peak Power. A heavier FW will put power lower. With a Lighter FW you will NOTICE a decrease on off the line Power but it is replaced up top.
Less rotating Mass will make it easier for te car to REV but Conversly Make it easier for your car to stall.
Taking off from a Start is more difficult with a Lighter FW. Works on the same principles as the Lighter wheels/Tire combo.
(energy=(1/2) mass x velocity-squared) or(.5 x m x v^2) If you look at the Equation we can see that 1/2 Mass is DIRECTLY Proportional to Energy Meaning If all else is constant you increase the MASS and you encrease the energy. This is also an illustration of my previous statement about MOVING power output around. We can see if the MASS is Decreased then the Velocity (RPMs) Must INCREASE intoder to put out the same power with the heavier FW. In reverse if the FW is Heavier you don't have to rev as high to realize the power.
Not trying to say that a Lighter FW is not a good upgrade just KNOW what you re changing before you go out to get the Lightest FW. One more thing to NOTE. Our engines have a REV Limit so in that Case there is a Limit to how hight your V value can be and therefore a LIMIT to how much power you can output with a very LIGHT FW
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Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (lilcasino)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lilcasino »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">comptech I have had my 6.75lb FW for over a year now with no issues.
I don't have problems going up hill.</TD></TR></TABLE>
same here
I have had my 6.75lb FW for over a year now with no issues. I don't have problems going up hill.</TD></TR></TABLE>
same here
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Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (Spoond TEG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoond TEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Which is Lighter a 9 pound Aluminum FW or a 9 Pound Cromoly FW?
Too much of a good thing is NOT GOOD. A FW that is too light is not good for street use. there is a MEDIAN AREA</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, and you effectively argued against my point...how?
I said there is no use in paying extra for Chromoly.
Which is lighter? They are the same. Which one costs $200 and which one costs $400? Theres your answer...get aluminum. Never mind the fact that the benefits of Chromoly just arent necessary.
And lighter is better in terms of what is available on the market. A 7lb flywheel is better than a 9lb, given they are both manufactured and balanced properly. Simple as that. When people complain of "stalling" and being "hard to drive"...just more internet myths. Does it happen from time to time? Maybe. Is it hard to drive with a light FW? No. Does it feel nicer with a lighter flywheel as opposed to a heavier one? Yes. Does a 7lb flywheel only increase the benefits seen with a 9lb FW, seeing as how theyre based on the same principle? Yes.
Lighter is better.
Which is Lighter a 9 pound Aluminum FW or a 9 Pound Cromoly FW?
Too much of a good thing is NOT GOOD. A FW that is too light is not good for street use. there is a MEDIAN AREA</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, and you effectively argued against my point...how?
I said there is no use in paying extra for Chromoly.
Which is lighter? They are the same. Which one costs $200 and which one costs $400? Theres your answer...get aluminum. Never mind the fact that the benefits of Chromoly just arent necessary.
And lighter is better in terms of what is available on the market. A 7lb flywheel is better than a 9lb, given they are both manufactured and balanced properly. Simple as that. When people complain of "stalling" and being "hard to drive"...just more internet myths. Does it happen from time to time? Maybe. Is it hard to drive with a light FW? No. Does it feel nicer with a lighter flywheel as opposed to a heavier one? Yes. Does a 7lb flywheel only increase the benefits seen with a 9lb FW, seeing as how theyre based on the same principle? Yes.
Lighter is better.
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Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (newgsrdriver)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newgsrdriver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OK, and you effectively argued against my point...how?
I said there is no use in paying extra for Chromoly.
Which is lighter? They are the same. Which one costs $200 and which one costs $400? Theres your answer...get aluminum. Never mind the fact that the benefits of Chromoly just arent necessary.
And lighter is better in terms of what is available on the market. A 7lb flywheel is better than a 9lb, given they are both manufactured and balanced properly. Simple as that. When people complain of "stalling" and being "hard to drive"...just more internet myths. Does it happen from time to time? Maybe. Is it hard to drive with a light FW? No. Does it feel nicer with a lighter flywheel as opposed to a heavier one? Yes. Does a 7lb flywheel only increase the benefits seen with a 9lb FW, seeing as how theyre based on the same principle? Yes.
Lighter is better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ACT are chromoly...they dont cost $400
OK, and you effectively argued against my point...how?
I said there is no use in paying extra for Chromoly.
Which is lighter? They are the same. Which one costs $200 and which one costs $400? Theres your answer...get aluminum. Never mind the fact that the benefits of Chromoly just arent necessary.
And lighter is better in terms of what is available on the market. A 7lb flywheel is better than a 9lb, given they are both manufactured and balanced properly. Simple as that. When people complain of "stalling" and being "hard to drive"...just more internet myths. Does it happen from time to time? Maybe. Is it hard to drive with a light FW? No. Does it feel nicer with a lighter flywheel as opposed to a heavier one? Yes. Does a 7lb flywheel only increase the benefits seen with a 9lb FW, seeing as how theyre based on the same principle? Yes.
Lighter is better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ACT are chromoly...they dont cost $400
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Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (ragejed)
Toda, Jun, Comptech...all Chromoly, all more expensive.
Before ACT just recently released their cheaper Chromoly series, there wasnt a sub $300 chromoly FW on the market. Never mind the fact that Fidanza is still lighter than ACT's FW's.
And that still does nothing to refute the fact that Chromoly is just not necessary. In ACTs case, you sacrifice weight for nothing. In every other case, you sacrifice money for nothing. Either way, aluminum, light...the way to go.
Before ACT just recently released their cheaper Chromoly series, there wasnt a sub $300 chromoly FW on the market. Never mind the fact that Fidanza is still lighter than ACT's FW's.
And that still does nothing to refute the fact that Chromoly is just not necessary. In ACTs case, you sacrifice weight for nothing. In every other case, you sacrifice money for nothing. Either way, aluminum, light...the way to go.
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Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (ragejed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragejed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Toda</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: DC2R
Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (newgsrdriver)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newgsrdriver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OK, and you effectively argued against my point...how?
I said there is no use in paying extra for Chromoly.
Which is lighter? They are the same. Which one costs $200 and which one costs $400? Theres your answer...get aluminum. Never mind the fact that the benefits of Chromoly just arent necessary.
And lighter is better in terms of what is available on the market. A 7lb flywheel is better than a 9lb, given they are both manufactured and balanced properly. Simple as that. When people complain of "stalling" and being "hard to drive"...just more internet myths. Does it happen from time to time? Maybe. Is it hard to drive with a light FW? No. Does it feel nicer with a lighter flywheel as opposed to a heavier one? Yes. Does a 7lb flywheel only increase the benefits seen with a 9lb FW, seeing as how theyre based on the same principle? Yes.
Lighter is better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cromoly and Aluminum have different charateristics. Cromoly has benifits of Lieght weight and Superior strength.
Another point is that ALL Light weight FW aren't created equal. I don't feel like arguing Cromoly is more expensive and perhaps you are satisfied with Aluminum and it is your opinion which you are indeed entitled to.
There is a reason Cromoly is more expensive and part of that reason is better quality in strength and balancing. I have seen plenty of cases where the Al FW was used and resulted in tranny problems cause the FW Flexed with the pressure from the plate (PP) resulting in longer pedal travel i the clutch. I'd rather pay the extra and have peace of mind and longer lasting product.
You're into the MORE is BETTER or in this case less is better LOL
Okay How about this one for you... Boil some water and put 2 cups of your favorite pasta. (I'm hungry so i have food on my mind) Taste it (Hmmm it needs Salt) Okay Now do the same thing adding 2 spoon fulls of salt. Add Pasta and MMmmm very good. So according to your theory the more salt I add the better the pasta will be???
No I am just teasing you. I understand what you are saying but do the math there is a LIMIT to how much weight off is GOOD. There is a PROPER BALANCE involved here. You are gaining ACCELERATION but you are loosing other things as well. How about this one? More o2 will give you a bigger BANG and thus more power right? Well if you have too much O2 in the System what do you have DETONATION! The List goes on my friend.
You cannot lay down a RULE that says the lighter the better. Just can't say that.
Another good point: I know this is OT but it's not really... Take a FD gear. Stock being 4.4 and there are a few in between. Okay there are some to say that the larger FD will allow you to accelerate faster.
This is TRUE. Take the 96 spec ITR Vs the 98 Spec (4.4 vs the 4.785) Side by side equal drivers all is a given only difference is the FD. The 98 spec will jump out ahead ever time. HOWEVER give it some room and the 96 spec will walk you down. GIVE and take Faster Excelleration but lower top speed (Not the case with the ITR's cause the JDM 98 Spec has different 4th and 5th to compensate)
So you say well if I use the 4.9 from ATS them it's evn better than the JDM Stock 4.785 (this is your THINKING) YES AND NO Yes you will accelerate faster BUT TOP END WILL SUFFER and you will have to drive around on the street everyday with a car that revs at 4 grand in a 30 mph zone.
BALANCE, give and take, that's what it is all about. lighter FW doesn't amke More Power.
OK, and you effectively argued against my point...how?
I said there is no use in paying extra for Chromoly.
Which is lighter? They are the same. Which one costs $200 and which one costs $400? Theres your answer...get aluminum. Never mind the fact that the benefits of Chromoly just arent necessary.
And lighter is better in terms of what is available on the market. A 7lb flywheel is better than a 9lb, given they are both manufactured and balanced properly. Simple as that. When people complain of "stalling" and being "hard to drive"...just more internet myths. Does it happen from time to time? Maybe. Is it hard to drive with a light FW? No. Does it feel nicer with a lighter flywheel as opposed to a heavier one? Yes. Does a 7lb flywheel only increase the benefits seen with a 9lb FW, seeing as how theyre based on the same principle? Yes.
Lighter is better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cromoly and Aluminum have different charateristics. Cromoly has benifits of Lieght weight and Superior strength.
Another point is that ALL Light weight FW aren't created equal. I don't feel like arguing Cromoly is more expensive and perhaps you are satisfied with Aluminum and it is your opinion which you are indeed entitled to.
There is a reason Cromoly is more expensive and part of that reason is better quality in strength and balancing. I have seen plenty of cases where the Al FW was used and resulted in tranny problems cause the FW Flexed with the pressure from the plate (PP) resulting in longer pedal travel i the clutch. I'd rather pay the extra and have peace of mind and longer lasting product.
You're into the MORE is BETTER or in this case less is better LOL
Okay How about this one for you... Boil some water and put 2 cups of your favorite pasta. (I'm hungry so i have food on my mind) Taste it (Hmmm it needs Salt) Okay Now do the same thing adding 2 spoon fulls of salt. Add Pasta and MMmmm very good. So according to your theory the more salt I add the better the pasta will be???
No I am just teasing you. I understand what you are saying but do the math there is a LIMIT to how much weight off is GOOD. There is a PROPER BALANCE involved here. You are gaining ACCELERATION but you are loosing other things as well. How about this one? More o2 will give you a bigger BANG and thus more power right? Well if you have too much O2 in the System what do you have DETONATION! The List goes on my friend.
You cannot lay down a RULE that says the lighter the better. Just can't say that.
Another good point: I know this is OT but it's not really... Take a FD gear. Stock being 4.4 and there are a few in between. Okay there are some to say that the larger FD will allow you to accelerate faster.
This is TRUE. Take the 96 spec ITR Vs the 98 Spec (4.4 vs the 4.785) Side by side equal drivers all is a given only difference is the FD. The 98 spec will jump out ahead ever time. HOWEVER give it some room and the 96 spec will walk you down. GIVE and take Faster Excelleration but lower top speed (Not the case with the ITR's cause the JDM 98 Spec has different 4th and 5th to compensate)
So you say well if I use the 4.9 from ATS them it's evn better than the JDM Stock 4.785 (this is your THINKING) YES AND NO Yes you will accelerate faster BUT TOP END WILL SUFFER and you will have to drive around on the street everyday with a car that revs at 4 grand in a 30 mph zone.
BALANCE, give and take, that's what it is all about. lighter FW doesn't amke More Power.
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Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (Spoond TEG)
I don't even want to begin to go into why pasta and salt, and O2 and fuel, and different FD's are a bad compairison to lightweight flywheels.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When you reduce the weight the engine will rev faster, but you will loose some torque. So the lighter you go the more torque you loose, but the faster the engine will rev.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, it does not effect torque or HP. I have seen plenty of dynos to prove it, period.
If the flywheel is strong enough where it won't shatter, and you can drive on it, there is no disadvantage to having it lighter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When you reduce the weight the engine will rev faster, but you will loose some torque. So the lighter you go the more torque you loose, but the faster the engine will rev.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, it does not effect torque or HP. I have seen plenty of dynos to prove it, period.
If the flywheel is strong enough where it won't shatter, and you can drive on it, there is no disadvantage to having it lighter.
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From: DC2R
Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (StyleTEG)
Arument being Lighter is better. Meaning if a 12 pound FW is good then a 9 pound is better then a 7 pound is better.
Just trying to make a point that there is A BALANCE involved as with Putting salt on pasta or using the FD. The Lighter FW has a place and IMO it is not on the street.
DYNO WILL PROVE NOTHING. DYNO Measures PEAK HP AND Tq....
If you take your car for instance. From a Stop you rev and engage the clutch about say 3 gran (for example) If you Lighten the FW and launch the car at 3 grand you will realize a drop in the ability of the car to move. Make even lighter and the Drop in the ability of the car to move will increase.
You will have to launch the car at a HIGHER RPM inorder not to stall the engine. LOOK AT THE EQUASION Physics says it all.
Given that equasion and given that the car has a REV LIMITER (V^2) value has a CAP and in order to maintain E when you decrease M you will have to raise V, but if V has a Limit then doesn't that mean the lighter you go.... Get my point?
POINT is there is a trade off and those of you trying to make it look like a win win situation all the way around are just plain misinformed.
SACRAFICES are being made in Engine Longevity and reliability when you lighten the FW. Hey if you're comfortable taking off at higher RPM's just to keep the car running then more power to ya. Like I said before I speak from personal experience. You WILL LOOSE TORQUE ON THE LOWER RPM Range but you will gain Acceleration. That is all I am saying
Just trying to make a point that there is A BALANCE involved as with Putting salt on pasta or using the FD. The Lighter FW has a place and IMO it is not on the street.
DYNO WILL PROVE NOTHING. DYNO Measures PEAK HP AND Tq....
If you take your car for instance. From a Stop you rev and engage the clutch about say 3 gran (for example) If you Lighten the FW and launch the car at 3 grand you will realize a drop in the ability of the car to move. Make even lighter and the Drop in the ability of the car to move will increase.
You will have to launch the car at a HIGHER RPM inorder not to stall the engine. LOOK AT THE EQUASION Physics says it all.
Given that equasion and given that the car has a REV LIMITER (V^2) value has a CAP and in order to maintain E when you decrease M you will have to raise V, but if V has a Limit then doesn't that mean the lighter you go.... Get my point?
POINT is there is a trade off and those of you trying to make it look like a win win situation all the way around are just plain misinformed.
SACRAFICES are being made in Engine Longevity and reliability when you lighten the FW. Hey if you're comfortable taking off at higher RPM's just to keep the car running then more power to ya. Like I said before I speak from personal experience. You WILL LOOSE TORQUE ON THE LOWER RPM Range but you will gain Acceleration. That is all I am saying
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,805
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Re: What is the best FLYWHEEL to get? (Spoond TEG)
My friend...your analogies are ridiculous.
Bottom line, for our purposes here, a 10lb flywheel is better than a 12lb. A 9lb better than a 10lb. And a 7lb better than a 9lb. A lighter flywheel, in our case, 6.75lbs being about the lightest, is your best bet. If you are looking to see benefits from a lighter flywheel in smoother acceleration and better response, the lightest flywheels on the market will accomplish that the best. A 7lb flywheel will offer quicker revs and better response than a 10lb flywheel, end of story.
We're not talking about HP or TQ here, we're talking about response. And youre philosophy of taking off at higher RPMs due to a lighter flywheel being a cause for a decrease in engine longevity...cmon man. Thats just ridiculous. Thats like saying you should lose some weight in order to get better mileage...just a ridiculous idea.
I dont see how there is any argument here...how is having a lighter flywheel NOT advantageous in terms of the benefits of actually HAVING a flywheel?
And about Chromoly...a properly manufactured aluminum flywheel like Fidanza, Comptech, etc will perform just as well as any Chromoly flywheel in terms of strength. Having a Chromoly FW is just pointless...its like saying you have a CF battery tie down...thats great, its nice to say, but does it hold your battery tighter because its CF? Chromoly is just not necessary...the metal itself is "stronger" sure, but if your application never comes CLOSE to pushing those limits, what does it matter?
Aluminum. Lightweight. Cheap. The best flywheels.
Bottom line, for our purposes here, a 10lb flywheel is better than a 12lb. A 9lb better than a 10lb. And a 7lb better than a 9lb. A lighter flywheel, in our case, 6.75lbs being about the lightest, is your best bet. If you are looking to see benefits from a lighter flywheel in smoother acceleration and better response, the lightest flywheels on the market will accomplish that the best. A 7lb flywheel will offer quicker revs and better response than a 10lb flywheel, end of story.
We're not talking about HP or TQ here, we're talking about response. And youre philosophy of taking off at higher RPMs due to a lighter flywheel being a cause for a decrease in engine longevity...cmon man. Thats just ridiculous. Thats like saying you should lose some weight in order to get better mileage...just a ridiculous idea.
I dont see how there is any argument here...how is having a lighter flywheel NOT advantageous in terms of the benefits of actually HAVING a flywheel?
And about Chromoly...a properly manufactured aluminum flywheel like Fidanza, Comptech, etc will perform just as well as any Chromoly flywheel in terms of strength. Having a Chromoly FW is just pointless...its like saying you have a CF battery tie down...thats great, its nice to say, but does it hold your battery tighter because its CF? Chromoly is just not necessary...the metal itself is "stronger" sure, but if your application never comes CLOSE to pushing those limits, what does it matter?
Aluminum. Lightweight. Cheap. The best flywheels.