Just to start out with some helpful info...my car:

92 civic CX
94 JDM B18C
P72 computer ( i'm assuming it's from the same motor)

Anyways, here's the deal, when i first start my car and drive for a little while it's fun to drive, low-mid is satisfying, and top-end puts a big smile on your face, but after driving for a few minutes it just starts to suck, i have to downshift for hills, and it surges in regular driving. I had assumed it was a fuel delivery problem, but this wouldn't explain why it changes after driving a few minutes.

Also if i flip the key off then back on it starts the whole process over. So i'm assuming it's the ECU, but the CEL isn't coming on, and there are no codes.

On a side note, a possibly related problem is that my heater core broke, and might have gotten the ECU wet. but i don't know if it did or not

 

bump for the night

 

I have the same set up as you (94 JDM GSR into a 92CX Hatch) and I have just about the same problem. The car stumbes or hesitates untill around 4000 rpm and then its fine. I have replaced my fuel pump with a Type R unit along with new cap and rotor.

I have been searching and people are saying check timming and tps sensor but no definate answers.

Im not trying to steal you thread but it just seams like we have the same problem.

Can someone offer up a little help? Please!

 

Wow, I'm running almost the same setup as both of you guys and I am having the same problems. I've had people tell me that it could be the ignition system, but I have all new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I replaced the fuel injectors and filter, and I still have the problem. Timing is right on everytime I check it. Someone suggested that maybe it is the map, tps, or O2 sensor. I checked the map and tps sensors and they are both fine. I thought that maybe my timing belt was not tensioned properly, but I followed the procedure in the Helms to the tee. I still think that it maybe the timing belt, but wouldn't the power loss be all of the time?

Other then all that I'm at a loss. Oh yeah, I just remembered, someone else also mentioned that it could be vacuum pressure. Check all of your lines to make sure. Anyway, I'd check into some of the things that I mentioned, just because it didn't help me doesn't mean that it would help you guys. Good Luck, and let me know how you make out!

 

I was going to get my timing checked. It cant hurt.

 

it seems like if this many people are having the same problem right now that someone that has gone thru this before would know how to fix it. All i know is that this is really frustrating, i just want my car to run right, and i don't have the money to take it anywhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it seems like if this many people are having the same problem right now that someone that has gone thru this before would know how to fix it. All i know is that this is really frustrating, i just want my car to run right, and i don't have the money to take it anywhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I second that!

 

someone help, c'mon this is honda-tech, the best technological resource for honda's on the net....oh well, at least i'm at 600 posts now

 

Do your swaps have FITV (Automatic Transmissions) under the TB?
Treat it like an idle problem:
1) check IAC valve functionality
2) Verify PCV system is not flowing too much air
3) Check for gasket leaks.
4) If you have a FITV, try blocking it off.

I assume that you mean the idle fluctuates and rises when you say that it "surges". This is also know as "hunting idle". Maybe a search for that will help.

"Extra" air post TB causes idle to rise and "most the time" will eventually throw an "Idle Control System" DTC.

My friend ended up with a FITV on his Civic swap (with manual Transmission ECU), and he had persistent Idle problems. I didn't figure that one out until I moved away though.

 

it's the IAB, you dummies

-PHiZ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's the IAB, you dummies

-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought that might be the problem. But would the IAB cause the problem to only happen when the car is warmed up?


Modified by SpyderZEX at 4:01 PM 8/16/2003

 

maybe, and you guys aren't dummies, but I was just surprised no-one had thought of it as something to trouble-shoot.

And the stock ecu has soem slighty different settings until you get warmed up. I knwo for a fact, their is a cold idle, and cold vtec points.

I have another friend that is having this same problem, he just took the car to the dealership, dont' worry guys, we'll fix this

can you guys post if you have USDM/JDM motor's and ecus. Thanks.

also did anyone have problems with vtec oil pressure sensor...

-PHiZ

 

basically what i'm getting from this post is that its a common problem caused by a number of things....so what it's going to take is going thru and checking each of these possible causes, and by the process of elimination we can figure it out. Also it may be different for each car. That kinda sucks.....i don't have the time to do this yet, as soon as i can i'm going to replace the plug wires, and figure out how to set the timing. Then move on to other things.....good luck to all the others who have this problem

 

I have a 95 JDM B18C GSR motor and ecu.

 

Trouble shooting list

Do your swaps have FITV (Automatic Transmissions) under the TB?
Treat it like an idle problem:

1) check IAC valve functionality
2) Verify PCV system is not flowing too much air
3) Check for gasket leaks.
4) If you have a FITV, try blocking it off.
5) IAB
6) Plugs, wires,
7) check ignition timing


just consolidating the checklist, plus free bump

 

Does anybody know what the voltage between the 2 sockets on the 2p connector for the IAB control solenoid valve should be. My IAB is not working right now and I'm hoping that this is the problem. I replaced the solenoid and it still is not working. I'm getting vacuum pressure in the #12 lines, but I'm not getting vacuum to the #13 line to the diaphram. I've replaced all of the vacuum lines and still nothing.

 

bump for the cause

 

i don't think it's my IAB, because i can hear the secondaries opeining, and plus it's the low end that suffers, not high end, i don't think it's the IACV, because i replaced that already, and it idled much better, and it also has no codes, i really need to figure out how to adjust my timing.

 

Has anyone pulled and checked their plugs (for fouling)?

Can we get a better description of what happens:
When starting the car and letting it sit still idling until reaching operating temp.
When driving the car at low load (not WOT) after this period.
When driving the car at WOT after this warmup.
When starting the car from cool and driving it immediately throughout and after the warmup period.
Idling (at stop light, or parked) after the car has been through all of the above driving.

I'd like to understand better when this "surging" occurs and what it does to RPMs for each of you.

Thanks.

 

When I start the car and it is cold, it is fine all the way throught the RPM range. If I drive it until it is warm,(normal op temp) it begins to surge when accelerating at about the 3-4k RPM range. Regaurdless of the temp the idle is usually very good.

By surge I mean bogging. A loss of power for a second or two.

If I drive the car to normal op temp, then turn it off for a minute or two (I.E. run into 7-11 or a convenience store) the car really looses power. It feels like I'm dragging a boat on the back of my car. When this happens, I can pin the throttle and it still feels weak.

I hope that this helps....

 

Have you checked your plugs?
Has anyone followed the Fuel Pressure testing procedures in the Helms?

 

I'm getting all my threads confused.

Heated O2 Sensor (Primary) should read 0.0 - 1.25 V output; 0.1 - 0.9V at adle (96+ Integras).
This is worth checking for those of you with helms and a multimeter.

 

I finally got the IAB working right yesterday and that helped the problem a little. I was going to look into the O2 sensor this weekend. The plugs are brand new, but they are bosch platinums (not my first choice, but they were all I could afford at the time). I am also going to check the ECT and thermostat sending unit. I'll let you guys know when I check this stuff out.

 

spyderzex, your problem sounds the same as mine....exactly. I also have new plugs, i haven't even had time to open my hood tho.....i've been working so much. good luck.....peace

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spyderzex, your problem sounds the same as mine....exactly. I also have new plugs, i haven't even had time to open my hood tho.....i've been working so much. good luck.....peace</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well at least I know that I'm not the only one with this problem, so BUMP for someone with more experience in this area.

Somebody please help us !