Here's some random pics of the last week of the motor build. It's going a bit slower than it normally does b/c I'm not the one putting in lots of time to build it, only to help with the stuff I already know and discover a few things for myself as the build continues.

We're kind of at a standstill now b/c one of the rod bearings got ruined beyond usefulness, so I'm waiting on an order from Len and the boys down at Baranco Acura.







You can see the cross-hatching on the #3 cylinder wall and maybe a slight bevel on the lip of the cylinder to aid piston installation.

I haven't check the piston-to-deck height, but it's pretty close to being right at 0 with the deck height. Kinda scary considering the P72 head's quench pads.


Slight chamfer on the crank's rod and main journal oil holes.


Enjoy.

 

thats looking pretty crazy
looks like fun though

 

Yea, I'm taking my own sweet time with it... should be pretty quick once we get that rod bearing in

 

nice...hope everything turns out ok...get more pics in when its together

 

what's the rotory doing on the table?

 

i would be doing the same thing......only if i had a garage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hmongboyLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's the rotory doing on the table?</TD></TR></TABLE>

DUH! hes makin it a piston/rotary hybrid! its one of the best ways to get easy hp. ok... if you took that seriously, youre a dumbass . but seriously, what IS with the rotary?

 

One of our guys happens to be a rotary fanatic and owns a FD. It's his conversation piece (aka the butt of half our jokes).

 

if that clearance is ~ 0 then i REALLY would not use that combonation dude. when you get into the higher RPMS, rod strech is going to own your head. having a clearance of .0032" gives you ~ 0 clearance at 9,000RPMs. i got this info from reading larry's how to build a 2.0L monster. so i would re-vise this setup dude

 

lookin good!

I wish I pulled my motor to install mine. I prolly would've made a lot of things easier.

 

its ~0 piston - deck height...

we are going to actually mic out the clearance here in the next few days (still need a rod bolt, and one of the head stud holes needs to be retapped first)

 

It's really hard to see a difference of 20 thousandths with unaided vision, so it might be safer than I think it is.

I figure the headgasket compressed thickness to be .030", and with a target quench clearance of .040" to .045", I feel pretty confident that we'll hit that target range, especially since the block isn't decked.

The tighter the better for the most part, but I don't feel very safe at anything below .040" quench clearance even tho we're using OEM cast pistons and a reasonably tight piston-to-cylinder wall clearance. I do have a little bit of concern about the rods and I'll probably talk to Larry about it if I can.

 

im going to rev it, blow it up and like it...besides, its not like im going to spin past 9... it should be fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



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I spy Harman Kardon remote control! Sorry my post is not usefull at all

 

Hey man, looking good! You still at IU? I'm heading down there tomorrow (Saturday) to help my sister move in.

 

Yeah. If you wanna give me a ring when you're not busy and I'm not at work in the afternoon, PM me.

Not much to do tho except put the intake manifold studs into the head.

 

bling bling

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arizsun21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I spy Harman Kardon remote control! Sorry my post is not usefull at all </TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats up with those guys..I have two preamps from about the same time by them (signature 2.0 and PT2500) and they have completely different remotes.

 

no no no hes building up a lightweight rotary motor to put in the trunk to power the rear wheels to have a true AWD monster

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Westrock2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Whats up with those guys..I have two preamps from about the same time by them (signature 2.0 and PT2500) and they have completely different remotes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no clue. My remote looks exactly like this one though

 

I can't believe that this post is being hijacked by stereo remote talk. Maybe I should take some more pics of those.

 

Sorry

Please do post more pics of the remote

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Enjoy.</TD></TR></TABLE>


IS that a rotor on your desk?! It better not go into your teggy!

j/k

 

Not that anybody listens when I speak, but here's more info on using the PCTX slugs with a P72 head.

I recently got a dial indicator bridge to measure piston-to-deck height clearances.

The arrow () on the crown of the piston has a P-D clearance of +.008" to +.009". It sticks out of the block by that much.

The "S" on the piston designating a .25mm oversized piston has a clearance of .000".

The "IN" on the piston has a P-D clearance of -.002".

The exhaust side of the crown has a clearance of -.005" to -.0055.
The intake side of the piston crown has a clearance of -.008" to -.0085.
I'm unsure of the reason for this discrepancy b/c I zero'd the dial indicator around the sleeve and compared it to other spots of the sleeve and block itself. They all zero'd less than .0005" discrepancy. The block is not warped with respect to the sleeves.

According to the calculations I've done, the piston-to-deck height clearance should be .0085" with the PCT pistons. That would have left us with a quench clearance of .0385" with a stock headgasket and .0435" with a cometic .035" head gasket.

We're gonna take the pistons/rods out again and shave down the arrows, numbers, and letters to help maximize out clearance.

 

Acura pistons are designed with a slight angle in the crown from the exhaust side to the intake side. It is there to help slide the exhaust gasses out of the combustion chamber. You cant really see it with your eye but with a dial indicator it will pick it up. On another note are you a machinist because I like your choice in percision tools Mitutoyo is great.