ground control 200/180 spring rates?
i'm interested in purchasing a set of gc's off a fellow HTer but the spring rates are kind of surprising. Aren't these rates close to stock? I plan on dropping my car pretty low so will my car be soft or stiff? i'm going to pair them with koni yellows. Do you guys think i should pick them up or get others with higher spring rates?
i wouldn't put the gc's on. ihav ethem and am not fully happy with them. try calling eibach or tein and getting a custom spring rate of 360lb fronts and rears. just get progressive fronts and linear rears. ouwill like that set up a lot. also don't throw any springs or coilovers on your car unless youhave already replaced your struts with ones that can accomodate a drop.
i already have koni yellows on my car. i'm just wondering if the spring rates are alright since they seem pretty soft to me. But since i'm dropping the car pretty low, doesnt that mean it'll be stiffer then 200/180?
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if they're really 200/180, they're gonna be just a bit stiffer than stock. too soft for me, imho. if you have koni yellows, these coilovers won't give you the max potential of your car's handling and the shocks capabilities. get at least 450/350(or even stiffer in the rear if that doesn't bother you) if you're serious about serious handling. just my suggestion.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HJLau75 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arn't GC's adjustable?</TD></TR></TABLE>Ride height is; spring rate isn't.
200 sounds awful low to gain much of a handling advantage, but that's just me.
200 sounds awful low to gain much of a handling advantage, but that's just me.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,930
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Sounds like those are the Special Edition GC's. Are you sure they will fit your Konis? You have to use Koni-specific adapters along w/ those sleeves so it will fit right. I plan on getting 350F/400R rates. 450 is pushing the limits of what off-the-shelf Koni shocks can handle. 500 might be alright but any higher and you will definitely need them revalved to handle higher rates.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where do i get these adapters and do i really need them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
From GC and yes you do need them.
From GC and yes you do need them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by au-gsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldn't put the gc's on. ihav ethem and am not fully happy with them. try calling eibach or tein and getting a custom spring rate of 360lb fronts and rears. just get progressive fronts and linear rears. ouwill like that set up a lot. also don't throw any springs or coilovers on your car unless youhave already replaced your struts with ones that can accomodate a drop.</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe i'm not understanding your post..why exactly don't you like the ground controls? just cuz?
i ordered directly from ground control and they use eibach springs...custom spring rates galore. i'm runnin 400F and 300R on koni yellows.
maybe i'm not understanding your post..why exactly don't you like the ground controls? just cuz?
i ordered directly from ground control and they use eibach springs...custom spring rates galore. i'm runnin 400F and 300R on koni yellows.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dased530 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aren't they 380/250 ???</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes.
Bringing this one up form the dead since i was searching the subject and there is misinformation here.
180.64.44 is metric for 7" long spring, 2.5 inch diameter, and 250 rate.
200.64.67 would be 8" long spring, 2.5 inch diameter, and 380 rate.
The metric-to-standard conversion is (length.diameter.rate) (/.254 /.254 x5.7) / divide, xmultiply
yes.
Bringing this one up form the dead since i was searching the subject and there is misinformation here.
180.64.44 is metric for 7" long spring, 2.5 inch diameter, and 250 rate.
200.64.67 would be 8" long spring, 2.5 inch diameter, and 380 rate.
The metric-to-standard conversion is (length.diameter.rate) (/.254 /.254 x5.7) / divide, xmultiply
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greg Brady »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes.
Bringing this one up form the dead since i was searching the subject and there is misinformation here.
180.64.44 is metric for 7" long spring, 2.5 inch diameter, and 250 rate.
200.64.67 would be 8" long spring, 2.5 inch diameter, and 380 rate.
The metric-to-standard conversion is (length.diameter.rate) (/.254 /.254 x5.7) / divide, xmultiply</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct,
I have the same spring rates on my teg.
These are perfectly fine for the street. (not soft)
If you will be auto-crossing and you want the car to rotate more, then just get a pair of stiffer springs for the rear ,or a type-r rear sway (22mm)
yes.
Bringing this one up form the dead since i was searching the subject and there is misinformation here.
180.64.44 is metric for 7" long spring, 2.5 inch diameter, and 250 rate.
200.64.67 would be 8" long spring, 2.5 inch diameter, and 380 rate.
The metric-to-standard conversion is (length.diameter.rate) (/.254 /.254 x5.7) / divide, xmultiply</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct,
I have the same spring rates on my teg.
These are perfectly fine for the street. (not soft)
If you will be auto-crossing and you want the car to rotate more, then just get a pair of stiffer springs for the rear ,or a type-r rear sway (22mm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVOL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
maybe i'm not understanding your post..why exactly don't you like the ground controls? just cuz?
i ordered directly from ground control and they use eibach springs...custom spring rates galore. i'm runnin 400F and 300R on koni yellows.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I use them on my daily driver and they are alright for that until winter time comes around. THey squeak and make lots of noise because you have a perch mount not attached to the strut witha weld and you have a sleeve resting on the perch mount. This just basically allows the parts to move and make noise in cold or slow truning conditions. The spring rates are all right for a daily but as far as having to go back and forth on the koni settings(which have no defined indexing for the damper controls) for auto cross and street drving. Well it isjusta big pain in the butt. I always find myself stopping in midtraffic or on a lng trip to adjust the koni's.
my thoughts behind the stronger spring rates is simple. i won't have to rely entirely on the shocks too get the level of damping thta works best for my style of driving. And yes i know it is hard to rate an item for both daily use and race use, but when i purchased the koni yellow setup and the gc special editions i thought i wouldn't have to mess around too much with everything and would have one setting for everything. but as i found out in my early days of modding, this just can not happen.
Next time i redo my suspension i am going to go with a full coilover system with a dual progressive spring in a rate of 400-480 front and rear. gonna fork out some serious loot on em too. gonna use the Drummond Motorsports 40mm tarmac racing struts. only a mere 2500
maybe i'm not understanding your post..why exactly don't you like the ground controls? just cuz?
i ordered directly from ground control and they use eibach springs...custom spring rates galore. i'm runnin 400F and 300R on koni yellows.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I use them on my daily driver and they are alright for that until winter time comes around. THey squeak and make lots of noise because you have a perch mount not attached to the strut witha weld and you have a sleeve resting on the perch mount. This just basically allows the parts to move and make noise in cold or slow truning conditions. The spring rates are all right for a daily but as far as having to go back and forth on the koni settings(which have no defined indexing for the damper controls) for auto cross and street drving. Well it isjusta big pain in the butt. I always find myself stopping in midtraffic or on a lng trip to adjust the koni's.
my thoughts behind the stronger spring rates is simple. i won't have to rely entirely on the shocks too get the level of damping thta works best for my style of driving. And yes i know it is hard to rate an item for both daily use and race use, but when i purchased the koni yellow setup and the gc special editions i thought i wouldn't have to mess around too much with everything and would have one setting for everything. but as i found out in my early days of modding, this just can not happen.
Next time i redo my suspension i am going to go with a full coilover system with a dual progressive spring in a rate of 400-480 front and rear. gonna fork out some serious loot on em too. gonna use the Drummond Motorsports 40mm tarmac racing struts. only a mere 2500
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by au-gsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my thoughts behind the stronger spring rates is simple. i won't have to rely entirely on the shocks too get the level of damping thta works best for my style of driving. And yes i know it is hard to rate an item for both daily use and race use, but when i purchased the koni yellow setup and the gc special editions i thought i wouldn't have to mess around too much with everything and would have one setting for everything. but as i found out in my early days of modding, this just can not happen.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you it cannot happen? It happens on mine, which consists of Comptech springs and AGX's but I have no problem leaving it on the setting I autox and drive on. From my standpoint, the best autox setting IS the best driving setting as far as struts are concerned.
The fact that the settings aren't indexed shouldn't be a problem either since you are looking for what amounts to 2 modes. They are indexed from their current position. Saturday morning, wake up go to the autox and turn **** 3 turns in front, whatever in the back. At the end of the day reverse it. Fancy coilovers aren't likely to make this any easier.
Cheers,
Roy
my thoughts behind the stronger spring rates is simple. i won't have to rely entirely on the shocks too get the level of damping thta works best for my style of driving. And yes i know it is hard to rate an item for both daily use and race use, but when i purchased the koni yellow setup and the gc special editions i thought i wouldn't have to mess around too much with everything and would have one setting for everything. but as i found out in my early days of modding, this just can not happen.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you it cannot happen? It happens on mine, which consists of Comptech springs and AGX's but I have no problem leaving it on the setting I autox and drive on. From my standpoint, the best autox setting IS the best driving setting as far as struts are concerned.
The fact that the settings aren't indexed shouldn't be a problem either since you are looking for what amounts to 2 modes. They are indexed from their current position. Saturday morning, wake up go to the autox and turn **** 3 turns in front, whatever in the back. At the end of the day reverse it. Fancy coilovers aren't likely to make this any easier.
Cheers,
Roy
my settings for auto cross are very different from street driving settings(on the shocks that is)
I run the rears at full stiff and the fronts about 3 1/2turns off full stiff. not tomention tire pressure changes have a lot to do with how your adjustabel suspension will work. higher pressures and lower pressures and different compund tires call for tuning the koni's. so if you run race tires, and street tires when you arent racing, the settings on the koni's will have to change due to increased sidewall/carcass stiffness on a set of race tires vs. street tires.
I run the rears at full stiff and the fronts about 3 1/2turns off full stiff. not tomention tire pressure changes have a lot to do with how your adjustabel suspension will work. higher pressures and lower pressures and different compund tires call for tuning the koni's. so if you run race tires, and street tires when you arent racing, the settings on the koni's will have to change due to increased sidewall/carcass stiffness on a set of race tires vs. street tires.
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