B18c Forged rods and pistons stock sleeves. 350whp SAFE????
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I am trying to help someone out here so would appreciate feed back. I want to know how reliable a well tuned B18c with forged Rods and Pistons with stock sleeves would be when occasionally producing 350whp. Around 250whp daily???
My guess is it would very reliable but I can't find any decent threads to back me up.. So I need evidence.
My guess is it would very reliable but I can't find any decent threads to back me up.. So I need evidence.
i would say YES! I have been making 340ish on my completely stock motor for about 5 months now. I have a piston/rod setup coming and plan on making 400hp off the unit with it. You should have no problems at all, as long as it is put together right and tuned the same way.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbozxi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the replys anymore out there??
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Racegas will be used when running higher booost levels..
</TD></TR></TABLE>Racegas will be used when running higher booost levels..
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400 is very obtainable on stock sleeves. I would recommend a mixture or pump and race gas tho. Most important tho, Tuning.
Does the same apply to nitrous? I'm trying to hit the 225hp mark on motor and spray when I'm at the track. I am hoping to spray at the very minimum a 100shot.
My friend makes 360whp with his stock sleeved 1.8L B18C running JE 81.25mm 9.0:1 slugs, Eagle rods, Portflow head, Hondata, and 12lbs. of boost from his T3/T04E... It's nothing special but in his full interior EJ6 he runs consistent 11.60's at ~121mph... Latez
My friend makes 360whp with his stock sleeved 1.8L B18C running JE 81.25mm 9.0:1 slugs, Eagle rods, Portflow head, Hondata, and 12lbs. of boost from his T3/T04E... It's nothing special but in his full interior EJ6 he runs consistent 11.60's at 120 to 122mph range... Latez
Hey guys im the guy he is trying to help
cheers turbo zxi
Here is the post that has set doubt in my mind to if it is worth getting forged internals. http://www.nzhondas.co.nz/phpB...art=0
Ill explain where im coming from so you get a bit of ackground info.
I have a B18C block and im going to put a B16A head on it and turbo it. So I did a bit of reading as to how strong and RELIABLE! the stock internals are under boost and most people told me that they will break under any form of power and you are wasting your time do it once do it right etc etc etc but the thing is i cant really afford (or justify) to spend tons of $$$ on forged internals ductle iron sleeves block guards. Im going to be running a really good standalone so thats not a problem I already have that sorted now im just confused about the engine's strengths and weaknesses.
So I thaught well build it strong and go forged but I simply cant justify the cost of sleeves or even a block guard so i discoverd block posting and put it on the list of things to do.
now people are telling me that im basicly wasting my time by forging it and not sleeving it.
Is this true?? What do I belive
complete confusion
I dont know now where to pour what little hard earned cash I have
HELP GUYS!
cheers turbo zxi
Here is the post that has set doubt in my mind to if it is worth getting forged internals. http://www.nzhondas.co.nz/phpB...art=0
Ill explain where im coming from so you get a bit of ackground info.
I have a B18C block and im going to put a B16A head on it and turbo it. So I did a bit of reading as to how strong and RELIABLE! the stock internals are under boost and most people told me that they will break under any form of power and you are wasting your time do it once do it right etc etc etc but the thing is i cant really afford (or justify) to spend tons of $$$ on forged internals ductle iron sleeves block guards. Im going to be running a really good standalone so thats not a problem I already have that sorted now im just confused about the engine's strengths and weaknesses.
So I thaught well build it strong and go forged but I simply cant justify the cost of sleeves or even a block guard so i discoverd block posting and put it on the list of things to do.
now people are telling me that im basicly wasting my time by forging it and not sleeving it.
Is this true?? What do I belive
complete confusion
I dont know now where to pour what little hard earned cash I have
HELP GUYS!
The more stock your engine is, the more precise tuning will have to be. Can it be done with a bone stock engine (and maybe a thicker headgasket), of course. Will it survive if it detonates once...maybe, maybe not. Forged internals and sleeving are extra insurance. If you're worried about so-so tuning and are afraid to push the engine hard in fear you might blow it, it would be wise to save up and build the block more. I personally have been saving for nearly two years because I know what I want and it's out of my immediate means (financially). We can't tell you that you need pistons or rods. Only you know that. We can only say if it can be done or not.
Everyone together now....turbo is not cheap
Everyone together now....turbo is not cheap
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOLDBERG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummm why put a b16 head on a b18c1 block?
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It's available. To lower compression. To take advatage of the single runner manifold. To easily bolt on an ITR manifold. Many head tuner agree the PR3 casting has better flow properties (quality vs. quantity), but I have seen dyno sheets proving both sides of this arguments. Just some thoughts.
</TD></TR></TABLE>It's available. To lower compression. To take advatage of the single runner manifold. To easily bolt on an ITR manifold. Many head tuner agree the PR3 casting has better flow properties (quality vs. quantity), but I have seen dyno sheets proving both sides of this arguments. Just some thoughts.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The more stock your engine is, the more precise tuning will have to be. Can it be done with a bone stock engine (and maybe a thicker headgasket), of course. Will it survive if it detonates once...maybe, maybe not. Forged internals and sleeving are extra insurance. If you're worried about so-so tuning and are afraid to push the engine hard in fear you might blow it, it would be wise to save up and build the block more. I personally have been saving for nearly two years because I know what I want and it's out of my immediate means (financially). We can't tell you that you need pistons or rods. Only you know that. We can only say if it can be done or not.
Everyone together now....turbo is not cheap
</TD></TR></TABLE> He is going to get Forged Rods and Pistons we live in New Zealand not many people if any know anything about installing aftermarket sleeves that makes it a big risk or he could ship the block off to the US but that is just to expensive. My opinion is if you aren't looking for more then 350whp and then only (at the track, with race gas) then sleevinmg is probably not worth it. Just keep the boost turned down for eveyday driving..
Everyone together now....turbo is not cheap
</TD></TR></TABLE> He is going to get Forged Rods and Pistons we live in New Zealand not many people if any know anything about installing aftermarket sleeves that makes it a big risk or he could ship the block off to the US but that is just to expensive. My opinion is if you aren't looking for more then 350whp and then only (at the track, with race gas) then sleevinmg is probably not worth it. Just keep the boost turned down for eveyday driving..
I cant say I want 350 WHP I mean that for me is probably just a stupid ammount of power im relativly happy with my B16A power with its bolt ons but I just want reliable boost and the torque that comes with it. so i automaticly figured forged but yeah as I said I was told it was a waste of time unless I had the sleeves to go with it.
so how do I go about this ???
p.s. I love revs
so how do I go about this ???
p.s. I love revs
tuning is the key element in creating a fast, RELIABLE car. My car is a prime exaple of that; 300+whp/290something tq. on boost only (350+ on n20) for over a year and a half, completely stock motor w/ cams and a blockguard, pump gas, and about 400 miles/week of abuse. Only problems: 10 year old slave cylinder crapped out and a 2 year old CM stg.5 finally bit the dust. ONE reason: tuning. (and the blockguard sure didnt hurt, either.
) Get a smart person with lots of experience behind a laptop, and you can easily get away with things the vast majority deem "impossible." (i guess their skepticism comes from bad experiences...who knows.) A stock block can easily take a beating - a daily one in my case - as long as it has a nice, conservative program backing it up. My $0.02...piece together your system, throw in a blockguard, buy a Hondata system, and ask around for a reliable tuner in your area. (get lots of references; there are plenty of horror stories about jackasses who can't tune blowing stuff up, so be careful) If you truly cannot shake your fear of stock pistons and rods, throw 'em in if it will stop your worrying; IMO, they are just not neccessary for a daily boosted 300whp car. Just my two pennies...good luck with your setup.
shami
) Get a smart person with lots of experience behind a laptop, and you can easily get away with things the vast majority deem "impossible." (i guess their skepticism comes from bad experiences...who knows.) A stock block can easily take a beating - a daily one in my case - as long as it has a nice, conservative program backing it up. My $0.02...piece together your system, throw in a blockguard, buy a Hondata system, and ask around for a reliable tuner in your area. (get lots of references; there are plenty of horror stories about jackasses who can't tune blowing stuff up, so be careful) If you truly cannot shake your fear of stock pistons and rods, throw 'em in if it will stop your worrying; IMO, they are just not neccessary for a daily boosted 300whp car. Just my two pennies...good luck with your setup.
shami
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90 CIVIC SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...so i automaticly figured forged but yeah as I said I was told it was a waste of time unless I had the sleeves to go with it.
so how do I go about this ???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nonsense. The only engines I would absolutely sleeve with forged internals (and this is just me, because I know others that haven't) is the Nikasil (sp?) lined H series. The only thing I would do is go minimal oversized on your pistons so you can overbore for straightness. Stock B sleeves and forged internals are fine. Stock cast pistons (especially the ringlands) are the weakest link, then the rods, then the sleeves. Good luck
so how do I go about this ???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nonsense. The only engines I would absolutely sleeve with forged internals (and this is just me, because I know others that haven't) is the Nikasil (sp?) lined H series. The only thing I would do is go minimal oversized on your pistons so you can overbore for straightness. Stock B sleeves and forged internals are fine. Stock cast pistons (especially the ringlands) are the weakest link, then the rods, then the sleeves. Good luck
Hmm cheers guys youve been really helpfull.
The thing im asking myself now is do I NEED the power that I will be able to achive with forged internals? I can imaigne being quite happy with just a modest 8 psi on the stock insides.
The hardest thing to do well here is get it tuned properly as the tuners here in NZ are not all that great even the best, compared to the guys you have available to you over where you are. But I will hunt down the best available.
I am going to be getting brand new internals one way or another as the ones I have arnt fit to be used. so depending on the price of new replacement parts will probably mostly dictate weather im going to go forged.
also will getting forged internals and not reaching for the sky HP wise, let me rev more, and more reliably than if I were to have stock internals under boost?
thanks guys im getting some really great knowladge here from ya
The thing im asking myself now is do I NEED the power that I will be able to achive with forged internals? I can imaigne being quite happy with just a modest 8 psi on the stock insides.
The hardest thing to do well here is get it tuned properly as the tuners here in NZ are not all that great even the best, compared to the guys you have available to you over where you are. But I will hunt down the best available.
I am going to be getting brand new internals one way or another as the ones I have arnt fit to be used. so depending on the price of new replacement parts will probably mostly dictate weather im going to go forged.
also will getting forged internals and not reaching for the sky HP wise, let me rev more, and more reliably than if I were to have stock internals under boost?
thanks guys im getting some really great knowladge here from ya
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90 CIVIC SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The hardest thing to do well here is get it tuned properly as the tuners here in NZ are not all that great even the best, compared to the guys you have available to you over where you are. But I will hunt down the best available.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This alone would make me go with forged internals. Stock pistons are not very forgiving to tuning mistakes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90 CIVIC SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also will getting forged internals and not reaching for the sky HP wise, let me rev more, and more reliably than if I were to have stock internals under boost?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. Extended revs will be found in head upgrades. But, if your not upgrading the cams, then why? The powerband of stock cams (B18C) usually plateaus in the low 8k's anyway.
This alone would make me go with forged internals. Stock pistons are not very forgiving to tuning mistakes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90 CIVIC SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also will getting forged internals and not reaching for the sky HP wise, let me rev more, and more reliably than if I were to have stock internals under boost?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. Extended revs will be found in head upgrades. But, if your not upgrading the cams, then why? The powerband of stock cams (B18C) usually plateaus in the low 8k's anyway.
higher revvin abilty would come from head upgrades and crank work
but like dsf said, there is no reason unless you have cams that make power up there(n/a).....if your turboed ...well u can make power up high
but like dsf said, there is no reason unless you have cams that make power up there(n/a).....if your turboed ...well u can make power up high


