Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder
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Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder
A year or so ago, I saw a 911 driver at an HPDE using this contraption that looked like a pesticide sprayer to bleed his brakes. Curious, I asked about it - it was the Motive Products Power Bleeder. Well, faced with replacing the master cylinder on my BMW, I decided it was time to give this thing a try.
It's a hand-pumped power bleeder that you use as follows:
1. Fill witl clean brake fluid
2. Attach, via various adapters, to your master cylinder resevoir
3. Pump up to 10-20psi
4. Go around to each bleed screw, crack open the bleeder, and watch fluid go from dirty to clean
For the BMW, which uses a threaded master cylinder cap, this thing is a godsend. Attach, pressurize, open bleed screws, and you're done. For the Integra, it's slightly more painful, but still worthwhile. Here's why.
Hondas (and apparently most Japanese cars) don't use a threaded master cylinder cap. This means you can't just screw an adapter on and create an air-tight seal (which is the premise on which this thing works). Rather, they've got an adapter cap that has fittings for a chain. The chain wraps under the master, and wingnuts on the top cinch it down. I've found that this doesn't seal much past 15psi of pressure, but leave it at 10psi and you'll be fine. Getting it installed wasn't eal easy until I found the trick...the chain they give you is, by design, a little short. So it takes just the right motion of rocking the adapter onto the MC to make it seal. Once this is complete, do a "dry run" with no brake fluid in the bleeder to check for leaks. If no air gets out, it's sealed and you're ready.
For people like me who are single and have no crew to help with stuff, this thing is awesome. No more opening the bleed screw, running around to pump the pedal, and running back around to close the screw while air inevitably sneaks in. Once set up, you literally just go to each caliper, open the screw, and watch for clean, bubble free fluid to come out. They even supply a (very nice quality, thick) outbound bleed hose to go into your favorite empty beer bottle.
One other thing I should mention...a lot of pressure bleeders apparently require the presence of compressed air. This does not, which means you can take it to the track, in its box, and not have to dick around with compressed air.
I like it and recommend it. With adapters for the BMW, the Japanese stuff (my race car, Mom's MR2) and my Suburban, it cost around 70 bucks. Well worth it IMO.
It's a hand-pumped power bleeder that you use as follows:
1. Fill witl clean brake fluid
2. Attach, via various adapters, to your master cylinder resevoir
3. Pump up to 10-20psi
4. Go around to each bleed screw, crack open the bleeder, and watch fluid go from dirty to clean
For the BMW, which uses a threaded master cylinder cap, this thing is a godsend. Attach, pressurize, open bleed screws, and you're done. For the Integra, it's slightly more painful, but still worthwhile. Here's why.
Hondas (and apparently most Japanese cars) don't use a threaded master cylinder cap. This means you can't just screw an adapter on and create an air-tight seal (which is the premise on which this thing works). Rather, they've got an adapter cap that has fittings for a chain. The chain wraps under the master, and wingnuts on the top cinch it down. I've found that this doesn't seal much past 15psi of pressure, but leave it at 10psi and you'll be fine. Getting it installed wasn't eal easy until I found the trick...the chain they give you is, by design, a little short. So it takes just the right motion of rocking the adapter onto the MC to make it seal. Once this is complete, do a "dry run" with no brake fluid in the bleeder to check for leaks. If no air gets out, it's sealed and you're ready.
For people like me who are single and have no crew to help with stuff, this thing is awesome. No more opening the bleed screw, running around to pump the pedal, and running back around to close the screw while air inevitably sneaks in. Once set up, you literally just go to each caliper, open the screw, and watch for clean, bubble free fluid to come out. They even supply a (very nice quality, thick) outbound bleed hose to go into your favorite empty beer bottle.
One other thing I should mention...a lot of pressure bleeders apparently require the presence of compressed air. This does not, which means you can take it to the track, in its box, and not have to dick around with compressed air.
I like it and recommend it. With adapters for the BMW, the Japanese stuff (my race car, Mom's MR2) and my Suburban, it cost around 70 bucks. Well worth it IMO.
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From: AWFUL autocrosser from, RI
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (baonest)
I'm sure stevel will pipe in on this one. He sprung for one and it looked like a pretty cool little device. For a convenience-to-$$$ ratio, it's a winner.
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From: MI, USA
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (krshultz)
I threw away the chain. I just use 2 quick grip clamps to attach it. It's much faster and holds past 20psi. For just bleeding you don't even have to add fluid. Just use air to pressurize the system, the fluid in the resevoir is enough to bleed all four corners.
Trial User
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Northern, CA, USA
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (R134)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R134 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....I just use 2 quick grip clamps to attach it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
???. Vicegrips? Please elaborate.
???. Vicegrips? Please elaborate.
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (krshultz)
I've bled my brakes 3 times with this and it's worth the cost on the first bleed!
Pump your pedal a half stroke a few times very slowly while you've got the bleeder cracked and it seems to firm up the pedal even more. Maybe I had some air in my ABS system or something, but this last bleed I followed what the Bentley manual said for the proper bleeding procedure(Pressure Bleeder + Pumping brake pedal for each corner) and it definitely seems firmer than just using the pressure bleeder.
All in all, a good buy.
Pump your pedal a half stroke a few times very slowly while you've got the bleeder cracked and it seems to firm up the pedal even more. Maybe I had some air in my ABS system or something, but this last bleed I followed what the Bentley manual said for the proper bleeding procedure(Pressure Bleeder + Pumping brake pedal for each corner) and it definitely seems firmer than just using the pressure bleeder.
All in all, a good buy.
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From: Union, KY, USA
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (Def)
So how much brake fluid are you supposed to put in the tank? Do you put a large volume in it although you actually only will need a pint or less to bleed with? Does that fluid tay in the bleeder tank when not on use therefore needing to be air tight to make sure the fkluid doesn't leech water? Once you are done with the bleeding process, is the cap removal from the MC a clean process or do you get fluid all over the place because it is in the lines, etc.? Finally, since the full line is below the top rim and the lid float needs to take some space, do you have to remove some fluid from the MC cup?
Sorry to ask so many questions but it sounds like an interesting item. I've been bleeding brakes for 30 years and recall as a kid my stepfather using a pressure bleeder or two but they often seemed more trouble then they are worth. If you have access to another person to pump (I usually do) and a pretty practiced system then bleeding is really quick.
I have also heard of the Speedy Bleeders that people use that have a spring loaded check ball in the bleeder fitting. Anyone use them? I've heard a number of racers who liked them. I'm all for making life simpler but don't think that know that saving only a couple of minutes is worth the investment and more stuff on the shelf for me. I was pumping the brake pedal to bleed by the age of 6 or 7 and my son is 3 already so he's getting closer.
Sorry to ask so many questions but it sounds like an interesting item. I've been bleeding brakes for 30 years and recall as a kid my stepfather using a pressure bleeder or two but they often seemed more trouble then they are worth. If you have access to another person to pump (I usually do) and a pretty practiced system then bleeding is really quick.
I have also heard of the Speedy Bleeders that people use that have a spring loaded check ball in the bleeder fitting. Anyone use them? I've heard a number of racers who liked them. I'm all for making life simpler but don't think that know that saving only a couple of minutes is worth the investment and more stuff on the shelf for me. I was pumping the brake pedal to bleed by the age of 6 or 7 and my son is 3 already so he's getting closer.
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Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (George Knighton)
I have speedbleeders all tehy way around on the Del Sol and they seem to work great, I have not had any problems that other have mentioned, and I have bleed my brakes about 5 to 10 times since I have had them and they work great and in fact I have better pedal feel after bleeding with these than before. I just barley crack them then pump the pedal then tighthen back, as george said tightening them to much is defintaly a problem.
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From: formerly elgorey, VIRginia
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (r2x)
Speedbleeders worked well on my pig. Teflon taped them when I put them on.
I eventually pulled them out because I am a
and overtorqued them, which crushes the tip. Considering I would bleed brakes 2 or 3 times a weekend I needed something more convenient than the 2 person method. (And the motive doesnt fit because that area of the engine compartment is crowded)
After bleeding with the regular bleeders I felt no difference in pedal feel.
I eventually pulled them out because I am a
and overtorqued them, which crushes the tip. Considering I would bleed brakes 2 or 3 times a weekend I needed something more convenient than the 2 person method. (And the motive doesnt fit because that area of the engine compartment is crowded)After bleeding with the regular bleeders I felt no difference in pedal feel.
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From: Vancity, b.c, CANADA
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (civicrr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
???. Vicegrips? Please elaborate.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Quick grips =
???. Vicegrips? Please elaborate.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Quick grips =
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Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (elgorey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elgorey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
After bleeding with the regular bleeders I felt no difference in pedal feel.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I meant to say this in my last post, but I forogt.. the reaon my pedal deel is better is the 1/2 **** way I used to bleed brakes by myself, it was adquet for street driving but once I started on track it was not, and the speedbleeder defintaly made it better, some people have complained of loss of pedal feel, and that is what I was trying to point out that I have not had.
After bleeding with the regular bleeders I felt no difference in pedal feel.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I meant to say this in my last post, but I forogt.. the reaon my pedal deel is better is the 1/2 **** way I used to bleed brakes by myself, it was adquet for street driving but once I started on track it was not, and the speedbleeder defintaly made it better, some people have complained of loss of pedal feel, and that is what I was trying to point out that I have not had.
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From: I started it
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (CRX Lee)
See within...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how much brake fluid are you supposed to put in the tank?
It depends. I used a whole large bottle of Valvoline when I did the BMW, which was a complete system flush. For the Integra I guess I used most of a pint of Motul as it had been a while.
Do you put a large volume in it although you actually only will need a pint or less to bleed with?
As far as I can tell you only put in what you'll roughly need. A pint bottle is a good place to start...maybe 2/3 of that, then store the rest.
Does that fluid tay in the bleeder tank when not on use therefore needing to be air tight to make sure the fkluid doesn't leech water?
Any remaining fluid in the bleeder I drained out and put back into the original container.
Once you are done with the bleeding process, is the cap removal from the MC a clean process or do you get fluid all over the place because it is in the lines, etc.?
The trick is that you release pressure *at the tank* instead of the MC. If you do it at the MC it makes a giant mess. Doing it at the tank, somehow the vacuum effect sucks excesses fluid back into the bleeder. Dunno how, but it's pretty cool.
Finally, since the full line is below the top rim and the lid float needs to take some space, do you have to remove some fluid from the MC cup?
I didn't. Like I said...it's kind of strange that it works this way, but the release of pressure seems to normalize the fluid level.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how much brake fluid are you supposed to put in the tank?
It depends. I used a whole large bottle of Valvoline when I did the BMW, which was a complete system flush. For the Integra I guess I used most of a pint of Motul as it had been a while.
Do you put a large volume in it although you actually only will need a pint or less to bleed with?
As far as I can tell you only put in what you'll roughly need. A pint bottle is a good place to start...maybe 2/3 of that, then store the rest.
Does that fluid tay in the bleeder tank when not on use therefore needing to be air tight to make sure the fkluid doesn't leech water?
Any remaining fluid in the bleeder I drained out and put back into the original container.
Once you are done with the bleeding process, is the cap removal from the MC a clean process or do you get fluid all over the place because it is in the lines, etc.?
The trick is that you release pressure *at the tank* instead of the MC. If you do it at the MC it makes a giant mess. Doing it at the tank, somehow the vacuum effect sucks excesses fluid back into the bleeder. Dunno how, but it's pretty cool.
Finally, since the full line is below the top rim and the lid float needs to take some space, do you have to remove some fluid from the MC cup?
I didn't. Like I said...it's kind of strange that it works this way, but the release of pressure seems to normalize the fluid level.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (krshultz)
This thing is great, IF you have a threaded reservoir. I use it on my M3, and used to use it on my Audis. Worked like a charm.
Not for Hondas though. Oh the mess... Even with a dry run or two to 20psi, sometimes it would spew brake fluid at 15-18 psi. The 2 person method is faster too, since you don't have to set this up.
I know, I know. No crew, blahblahblah. Just con someone into helping.
Warren
Not for Hondas though. Oh the mess... Even with a dry run or two to 20psi, sometimes it would spew brake fluid at 15-18 psi. The 2 person method is faster too, since you don't have to set this up.
I know, I know. No crew, blahblahblah. Just con someone into helping.
Warren
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From: MI, USA
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (Dr Pooface)
Yeah, two quick grip clamps. Use them to hold the bleeder cap that normally uses a chain. I go from the cap to the master cylinder (how the chain normally goes). You can apply pressure closer to the center of the cap so it doesn't leak as easily.
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (Warren)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not for Hondas though. Oh the mess... Even with a dry run or two to 20psi, sometimes it would spew brake fluid at 15-18 psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what scared me away from this thing. I went with the Griott's vacuum bleeder and so far so good.
That's what scared me away from this thing. I went with the Griott's vacuum bleeder and so far so good.
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (krshultz)
Motive bleeder = 
$50 waste
Toob + Zip tie/hoseclamp + catch can =
FWIW, i replaced the master cyl on the H1 hatch w/ the Vertex/CATZ logos on the side of it last wednesday nite. I filled the master and bled in order w/ just the t00b (no two-man pump/release or motive crap). Payton raced it sat/sun and I drove it sat TT practice. If there were some issue w/the braking system I imagine we would have uncovered it last weekend.
So, screw you guys and your expensive pimpy hardware that is just one more thing to break, leaving you to revert to the t00b+zip tie method anyways.
RJ
$50 wasteToob + Zip tie/hoseclamp + catch can =
FWIW, i replaced the master cyl on the H1 hatch w/ the Vertex/CATZ logos on the side of it last wednesday nite. I filled the master and bled in order w/ just the t00b (no two-man pump/release or motive crap). Payton raced it sat/sun and I drove it sat TT practice. If there were some issue w/the braking system I imagine we would have uncovered it last weekend.
So, screw you guys and your expensive pimpy hardware that is just one more thing to break, leaving you to revert to the t00b+zip tie method anyways.
RJ
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Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (George Knighton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The manufacturer claims this is because of any number of issues like not sealing the threads or overtightening the bleeder. (The bleeder will <u>look</u> like it's not in all the way, but it is. This causes people to overtighten and cause big problems.)
Edit: Found David's old post and bumped it. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=207203</TD></TR></TABLE>
I never understood why people had leak problems with these either, but the overtightening thing makes sense - just never thought people would attempt to bottom out a taper thread - they seal on the thread, not the shoulder. Woudn't something seem wrong as it got tighter and tighter with lots of thread left?
The manufacturer claims this is because of any number of issues like not sealing the threads or overtightening the bleeder. (The bleeder will <u>look</u> like it's not in all the way, but it is. This causes people to overtighten and cause big problems.)
Edit: Found David's old post and bumped it. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=207203</TD></TR></TABLE>
I never understood why people had leak problems with these either, but the overtightening thing makes sense - just never thought people would attempt to bottom out a taper thread - they seal on the thread, not the shoulder. Woudn't something seem wrong as it got tighter and tighter with lots of thread left?
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From: formerly elgorey, VIRginia
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Toob + Zip tie/hoseclamp + catch can = </TD></TR></TABLE>
you keep talking about this method but I have yet to see it in action!
</TD></TR></TABLE>you keep talking about this method but I have yet to see it in action!
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (elgorey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elgorey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you keep talking about this method but I have yet to see it in action!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll bring that chit on j00r cl0wn kar next time we work on it.
you keep talking about this method but I have yet to see it in action!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll bring that chit on j00r cl0wn kar next time we work on it.
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Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (Knestis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This (or similar) tool is as good as Speed Bleeders aren't.
Kirk</TD></TR></TABLE>speedbleeders kick ***!! maybe you're using them wrong? i ahve them on my acura, my civic and my bro has them on his M3. over 4 years on various sets and they are FANTASTIC!! speedbleeders simply work well and are a bargain.
Kirk</TD></TR></TABLE>speedbleeders kick ***!! maybe you're using them wrong? i ahve them on my acura, my civic and my bro has them on his M3. over 4 years on various sets and they are FANTASTIC!! speedbleeders simply work well and are a bargain.
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From: Morgantown, wv, usa
Re: Product Review: Motive Products Power Bleeder (vactor)
My method is this, find random guy who parked next to you for the day at the track and say "hey can you help me out real fast with bleading my brakes" 