Under any sort of braking, do you hear the pump gurgling/starving for fuel?

 

Yes, only when I have less then quarter tank. Other then that it's fine..... Well if i go down hilll with less than 1/4 tank it 's bad too..

 

Sorry for being off topic, but how much ground clearance do you guys have at the sump.....assuming they are the stock tank weld in types. I was thinking of this and a board member emailed me pics and I wasnt liking the clearance too much. I would like to upgrade the fuel system again, but Im not sure how it'll work out.

Oh yeah, if your worried about slosh you can buy gas takn foam. But of course it probably doesnt help much in a braking and gas moving forward out of the sump.

 

i think there is a better solution, i sort of came across it by accident, but it seems to work really well.

 

how about using the stock drain hole on the bottom of the tank, I doubt you'll have any starvation from that point. As far as the stock sump, just use it for return and cap the original feed outlet

just an idea geoff..

stan

 

Do tell.
Maybe 2 sumps and 2 pumps, one if front of tank one in rear and a mercury switch to activate the front pump when hitting the brake?? J/K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about using the stock drain hole on the bottom of the tank, I doubt you'll have any starvation from that point. As far as the stock sump, just use it for return and cap the original feed outlet

just an idea geoff..

stan
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I noticed that Viren is doing this on that Del Sol he has. I thought about that too, but seems to me like its a bandaid of sorts. Damn, why cant we just have fuel cells in the Sport Class????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about using the stock drain hole on the bottom of the tank, I doubt you'll have any starvation from that point. As far as the stock sump, just use it for return and cap the original feed outlet

just an idea geoff..

stan
</TD></TR></TABLE>
when you brake you'll lose some fuel. You need a true sump welded down in there like what tony1 did on the car he just built. Works really well. Tony get some pics of it up!

art

 

I got down and looked under my car...thers not very much clearance as there is...I would hate to catch a rock with the sump....

 

I tried using the stock drain hole as the supply for the pump. It starved unless I have at least half a tank of fuel. The fitting wasn't supportive enough either so being affraid of a breakage or vibration of coming loose, I took it off and send it off to weld a sump.

The sump actually sits alittle higher than my external fuel pump and it only starve alittle if the tank is near zero gasoline. When I hear hiccupes while I brake, it's time to fill up some fuel. The welder did a tremindous job on the sump and it looks and works great.

 

what about a three wall trap door system like the CAMP and Moroso ( I think. POSITIVE about the CAMP) Oil Pan has.
It has four walls around the actual pickup with trap doors that only open inward.
You would only need a three wall setup with a sump, since (at an angle) the sump is side feed.

 

yeah the fittings i made works, but very poorly, especially compared to a sump.

On my civic, I fabricated a fuel feed of sorts, and it works surprisingly well. I prefer it to a sump in fact. i dont want to let the cat out of the bag becuase im sure if i do someone else will start making these before i can get the time to, honda-tech copycats dont waste any time!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InfamousRS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would hate to catch a rock with the sump....</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly.

 

are you guys pulling out teh tank before welding it? or are you guys just draining the fluid, cleaning the area, cutting the hole, cleaning again, and welding the sump on? Is it safe to fucken weld a "FUEL" tank with gasoline residue still there?

 

Hahaha, try it and let us know how that works out for you

On an FJ55 with a 350 I was doing at work we opened up an exploratory hole and installed a small trap setup with the pickup attached to a stainless tube welded to an AN fitting that was welded into a small box and then welded the box onto the side of the tank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paul_Vang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you guys pulling out teh tank before welding it? or are you guys just draining the fluid, cleaning the area, cutting the hole, cleaning again, and welding the sump on? Is it safe to fucken weld a "FUEL" tank with gasoline residue still there?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, pull the tank out. WASH THE TANK WITH RUNNING WATER. What I did was create a sump from aluminun (~3x5), then cut the stock tank and then welding it to the rear of the tank. (By the stock location with the fitting facing the rear of the car) And I made the sump so that comes out a little lower. After all is done, wash the tank and then send it out to get boiled. Most radiator shops can do that. This is good until you're almost empty and then going downhill on the highway. My car died on me once, after that I never let it go below 1/4 tank anymore. I'll try to take some pics.

 

Just make up a small surge tank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekb18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What I did was create a sump from aluminun (~3x5)....

My car died on me once, after that I never let it go below 1/4 tank anymore. I'll try to take some pics.</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you sure it was aluminum? Also that sucks you cant drive below 1/4 tank. What do you do when you want to run race gas?

 

No, it wasn't aluminum.. sorry.. It was thin, maleable piece of steel that I had to bend into shape. It looked as if you took a rectangle and then cut it down diagonally.

I could go below 1/4 tank but I choose not to because of that one mishap going down a steep street and the car just stalled till it got on even ground again.

It can run a gallon or so on the track because the pavement is even and there's no steep hills. When the pavement is uneven or going down steep hills (i.e. clifton, bayonne)etc.. it's hell if you are below 1/4 tank.

This is what I have been doing for all cars that run on external pump such as the paxtons and aeromotives.

here i found a pic



Modified by ekb18c at 9:13 AM 7/6/2003

 

works if u copy and paste

http://community.webshots.com/...h.jpg

 

lets see some pictures fellas, im going with a aeromotive

 

Aeromotive is
I have aeromotive pump, filter, and fpr with custom sump. and yes when low on gas if i take a fast sharp turn my car stalls so i just keep her filled up.

 

I ran into this same problem on Allens civic. I made a sump similar to the one pictured above only wider. About 10" wide. Inside the tank though, the back wall of the sump goes almost all the way to the top of the tank and the sides are about an inch off the floor of the tank. This provides a little "sump" for the fuel to sit in and it'll take a pretty hard turn to empty it. It's worked so far, no problems with the pump running dry anymore.

 

screw ground clearance...it is tight but I still have 4" which is more that the cat convertor to ground clearance. If I have contact issues I will get a new tank and start over with some modification to the sump, to get a lower profile. Which I should have done in the first place. Hind sight is 20/20 I guess.

Sorry for so many pics, but they may help someone out if they need it...

Return: Removed the original pick-up and fuel pump, plasma cut this plate out and the 6AN return line dumps in the original location.


Sump: Tank has to be drained and removed. I flushed it out with warm water and citrus cleaner at least three times to break down the fuel residue. Then flushed with water a few times, and allowed to air dry for about a week. I was paranoid, better safe than sorry.
Five 2.5: hole saw cuts are made and then the sump is TIG welded in place. Now because you are cutting a perfectly good galvanized tank and welding a mild steel sump in place you need to seal the insides. Later I coated the outside of the sump with POR15 and painted the whole tank.




Pump mounting: Welded up an AL mounting plate to attach the pump to the frame rail, it even has vibration mounts built in. Works pretty well, this was the only good place that I was comfortable mounting this pump.



If I was to do it again, I would still use the same sump kit but I would cut it down beforte welding to the tank. I figure you could get 5" ground clearance easily, which should be more than plenty.

**and I'm not saying this is "the" way to do it, it is just the way I chose to do it. Expensive...yes, overkill...probably, but I like it.**


Modified by SLPR at 4:54 PM 7/6/2003

 

how much are these setups?