I'm looking into some ERS springs to replace my H&R race (want to get rid of the progressive springs). I'm thinking 350f/400r will be sufficient for me since it will only be for auto-x & street driving. What I'm not sure about is the length. I thought 8" was what I wanted but then I saw several people saying 7" to the guy with the GCs. These are going on Neuspeed Koni Yellows so I do have the ability to raise & lower the vehicle as I do not want to purchase coilover sleeves (I'm just picky, they'll never be adjusted once they're on the car and I'd rather just get the right spring for the right height/performance than playing with it all the time). What length is it that I want? I'd like no more than a 2" drop but that's something I can play with (i.e. if 7" springs are better for some reason, I can raise the perch).

My thinking now is that with a 7" spring, I can set the perch higher and retain/gain more travel over the 8" springs. Is this right? Am I just nuts?


P.S. Did a search & couldn't find anything on spring length even though I know I've seen it discussed before...

 

will these springs work properly w/o sleeves?

We test-fitted a 8" spring on the regular spring seat (no sleeve) of of a KYB AGX shock and with a bumpstop cut in 1/2, there was probably 1.25" of shock travel off the car. Will probably lose some of that travel w/ the shock/spring on the car.

I wouldnt recommend this route.

 

It depends how high you set the perch on the Konis. The height of the 7" spring will be less than 1" shorter than the 8" spring under load. So the potential increase in shock travel gained by using a higher perch (raises car...shock rod extends) is offset by the shorter spring.

With GCs, since they are on a threaded perch, you can retain the desired ride height with a shorter spring (less weight...). There is also less pre-load on the spring when you are changing them. I'm sure there are more benefits that I've forgotten to mention.

 

Here are the listed differences between the two springs you're looking at... (Eibach ERS)

Part Number = 0700.250.0400
Free Length 7.00
Inside Diameter 2.50
Rate 400
Block Length 2.71
Spring Travel 4.29
Block Load 1717
Spring Weight 2.32

Part Number = 0800.250.0400
Free Length 8.00
Inside Diameter 2.50
Rate 400
Block Length 3.24
Spring Travel 4.76
Block Load 1905
Spring Weight 2.93

An 8" in spring weighs in a little heavier (insignificant in my mind), But you gain about a 1/2" of spring travel before coil bind. Most shocks will bottom out before this happens. You'll also note that because of the extra travel the 8" spring can also take a heavier load before coil bind. If you're positive that you don't need that extra travel in a spring you should be fine with an 7" spring (I don't hear too many cases of coil bind with hondas) and again... you're shocks will probably bottom out before you get coil bind.

Personally I run 8" springs on my GS-R. I could easily run 7s in the back. I like the security of running the 8s in the front... There is probably more to it then what I just said but that's my amateur take on spring lengths.

 

On a civic, 7" springs are good. For an integra you'll need 8" springs in the rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For an integra you'll need 8" springs in the rear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree RJ... This is the first year I've run a 8" rears. 7s have been more then adequate in the past. I just like the to be able to comfortably swap fronts and rears and not worry about length. The only caveat to not being able to run 7s in the rear would be if you couldn't raise the perch enough to compensate for the shortened spring.

 

Well i still drove my car on the street. 7" were fine but the car was blingin slizzamed w/ the spring seat at the top of the sleeve. I had GC upper mounts, so it wasnt a travel issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will these springs work properly w/o sleeves?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn it, I didn't even think about that. Hmm...Guess I need to recheck some stuff first....

As for the 7" extra travel thing, sorry, I was still asleep & not thinking straight. I'm not quite sure how I came up with that idea....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave421 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn it, I didn't even think about that. Hmm...Guess I need to recheck some stuff first....</TD></TR></TABLE>

uh yeah, you can only use ERS springs with GC (or copies) or a full coilover shock.

but in case anyone else is reading this, 7" or 8" is not any significant difference, both will work fine for whatever application. obviously 7" will get you 1" lower before you have to worry about coilbinding, but your shocks will definately bottom out by then even using 8" springs anyway.

fwiw, i have 6" 900# in the rear of my crx, i ride rather low.