Sorry if anyone deems this off-topic but it seems pretty relative to the ITR specifically because I'm going to list the Hunter software's alignment specs for the ITR and hopefully spur on some real tech.

I work at a shop that only works on hondas and Acuras. We do alignments with a new (less than two years old) Hunter R611 machine complete with hunter software. I have done coiuntless alignments on various Hondas and Acuras including all sorts of Integra LS, RS, GS-R, and Type Rs.

Okay so here's the alignment specs according to the Hunter alignment machine at the shop that I work at:

Front:

Camber: -1.5 to .5
Toe: .08 to -.08

Rear:

Camber: -2 to 0
Toe: .16 to .04

Bascially I hook the heads up and get the readings from them and these specs above are the maximum and minimum tolerances allowed by Honda/Acura.]

When I align a car I try to dial in the max allowed negative camber if it's lowered (if it has adjustable camber by means of aftermarket kits) and set the toe at dead in the middle.

I do this because I don't want the car to wear tires uneven, but negative camber (to an extent I know) helps handling.

Here's whre my questions come in:

Would these specs be applicable to other models of the 1994-2001 Integra?

The reason I ask is because the other trim levels of Integra show different specs. They allow less negative camber, while the toe remains the same. The other models only allow -1.2 degrees of max negative cmaber up front.

Furthermore my question also extends to the 1992-1995 Civic which uses the EXACT same suspension geometry as the 1994-2001 Integras. Their max allowed negative camber is only -1 up front and -1.3 in the rear.

Is the track on the Integra different from the 1992-1995 Civic?

Does wheelbase and vehicle weight have a key effect on what stock alignment specs should be?

also once a car is lowered and using stiffer springrates and struts, do we completely throw all of these specs out of the window?

One of the reasons I ask is because on my own 1992 hatch with ITR powertrain I run 0 toe up front with -1 degree of camber and .08 toe in the rear with -1.3 camber. I'm trying to see if running ITR specs (more negative camber) will have an adverse affect on the tire wear, as in will they wear uneven afterwards?

I run Koni Yellows on Eibach ERS 425F 550R springs with no front bar and a 14mm rear bar if that makes a difference.

If anyone wants to flame me for asking this stuff then get over it please. If nothing else it is a 100% tech thread that at least gives some people an idea of what Acura/Honda thinks are ideal alignment specs for the Integra and Integra Type R.



Thanks for any help offered!

 

The guidelines are just guidelines. Even within those specs, the car could handle completely different from one end of the range to the other.

For a street car, I'd say:

FRONT:
-1.25 to -1.5 camber
-0 toe

REAR:
-.75 camber
0 toe

For something more agressive:

-2.0 up front
-0.03 to -.04 of toe, each side

-1 in the rear
0 toe

Warren

 

Remember, stock Hondas and Acuras do not have adjustable camber. So the factory specs are the acceptable limits. If they are out of spec than the factory manual says that something must be bent and you should start replacing parts. The ITR has more camber from the factory primarily because its one inch lower than other Integras.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The guidelines are just guidelines. Even within those specs, the car could handle completely different from one end of the range to the other.

For a street car, I'd say:

FRONT:
-1.25 to -1.5 camber
-0 toe

REAR:
-.75 camber
0 toe

For something more agressive:

-2.0 up front
-0.03 to -.04 of toe, each side

-1 in the rear
0 toe

Warren</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why so little camber in the rear?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why so little camber in the rear?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because you want the rear to have less traction to allow it to rotate.

Also the ITR is 15mm (0.59") lower than other integras.

 

My "performance" street setup is:

FL:
Camber -1.2
Caster .2
Toe 0

FR:
Camber -1.2
Caster .2
Toe 0

RL:
Camber -.4
Toe .04

RR:
Camber -.4
Toe .04

For track I keep the same caster for the front, and increase the front camber to 1.7-1.9 and rear camber to .6-.7, while keeping the same toe on all four corners. I have found this to be the best wear pattern for Pacific Raceways, PIR and Mission. But it will be different from track to track. It helps very much to have a rear camber kit!!

 

What do you adjust first camber or toe. If you have adjustable kits and want to change the camber will it throw off toe?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ultimatehonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you adjust first camber or toe. If you have adjustable kits and want to change the camber will it throw off toe?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup

 

i am a retired alignment man i have aligned thousands of cars of all types . i have a 2000 civic which has very negative camber on both rear wheels. i am going to put a camber kit on the rear since there are no adjustments . look at your tire wear . no one mentions this but believe me .if you do the wear pattern will tell you so much. since my car is tracking perfectly front and rear wheels . i know that the wear is from too much neg. camber. i checked it with the old string check which works in the absence of an alignment machine . . i see wear on the inside of one rear wheel but not as much on the other wheel ,so i know the neg camber is the cause of my tire wear . if it were the toe in i woul notice it on both tires equally . use common sense and look at the tires. they will tell you all you need to know . i am setting my camber on the rear to 0 ,you can do this accurately with a carpender's level . after that i will re check the toe-in on the rear because the camber adjustment will affect the toe-in in some cases . if i can get away with the camber kit and the toe-in is about 0 give or take an 1/8 an inch that will be great . if not i will add a toe kit and set the toe using it . i hope this helps . just use your brain and the tires will tell the story . old wrench

 

I've always aligned my own car (done at a tech college). Its a 92 Civic 3dr, with ITR 5 lug, lowered, etc. I do have adjustable arms front and rear. I used the Civic specs for everything except camber, which I added a little neg. camber in the front. Typically a FWD car has 0 camber in front, a lil neg camber in back. I've always ran mine like that (DD) and have had good luck with tire wear. I could have added more neg. camber in the front, but never did.

 

i think if you have the opportunity to see old tires you will gain a perspective on fine tuning the adjustments ,also this may sound funny but get the person who owns car if possible of course to sit in the car while aligning it. also make sure gas tank is full . hope this helps . old wrench

 

good specs

 

That works great for tire wear, not as great for track. A more aggressive daily driver set up may sacrifice some tire wear for driving feel and preference. All depends on your priority.