My AN-R.com H-series Header Install/Review...
well, since this thing is amazing, and not many people have discussed it, i thought i should share my feelings and give some install tips.
Car: 95 Civic EX Coupe
Engine: JDM H22A w/Lsd Transmission
Mounts: HASport
Specs:
Hand Made for Naturally Aspirated Engines
Specifically Design for Optimal Flow and Power Gains
Equal Length Stepped 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" Primaries
Improves Engine Output in Mid-Upper RPM Range
Increased Ground Clearance
4 into 1 Design Primaries
2.5" Collector
Available in either Street or Merge Collector
Will Not Clear Factory A/C Condenser
Will only fit H-Series (H22) Swap in 92+ Civic and 94+ Accord chassis
and now for my opinions: (5
= best)
LOOKS:
this thing will attract attention. some mechanics that were at the shop were in awe. they absolutely loved the look of it.
DESIGN:
seems to be well designed. like nothing i ever saw before. looks like a good amount of time went into this piece. only flaw in the design IMO is the placing of the o2 bung. its closer to the front of the motor. my o2 sensor is wired and perfect to fit towards the back of the block. meaning i now have to run wires under the oil pan or around something and it will be ugly, or prone to melting.
PRICE:
at $530 for the street collector, it wasn't a bad price at all. but i had to splurge another $180! just for ceramic coating. thats the only downside. i don't prefer the raw weld and raw metal look. so it was my choice to spend a little more. total cost $710 free shipping! (stainless steel is $230 extra.) (merge collector is $730)
QUALITY:
this header was very well constructed. good welds, nice bends, and the ceramic coating was near flawless. (few marks but nothing bad at all)
SOUND:
open header is a nice loud low grumble. i haven't bolted and exhaust to it yet. but so far, the growl of it open header is amazing compared to the sound of the stock manifold.
SHIPPING:
shipping was free from FedEx with tracking info. it came two days early which is a plus. but the box was pretty crushed like someone walked on it. probably the FedEx guys, but the header was undamaged. if the box was better, this could have been a 5 star aspect.
EASE OF INSTALL:
it wasn't exactly hard at all, but its a pain in the *** if you ask me, compared to my old greddy header on my d16. i had to jack up the car, unbolt the rear and driver's motor mounts, then jack up the motor about 4 inches. then i had to unbolt the alternator and move the radiator down a bit. just so i could fit it in. bolting it down was the worst part.
PERFORMANCE: ?????
unfortunately, i didn't have $ to dyno this header. not only that, but i could not drive my car that day either. so i have no PROOF of performance gains. although, it has been said to give an 11HP increase over DC Sports header for the H22.
GROUND CLEARANCE:
there is a good amount of ground clearance. my exhaust and header were always the lowest part of my car, so its good enough. my car is slammed on neuspeed race springs on tokico illuminas and i don't think this header will be any more of a problem then the stock manifold. maybe about 1/2" difference.
-----
Install Procedure:
1 start off by jacking up the car and putting it on jack stands.
2 next, unbolt the existing manifold from the downpipe. (stock is 2pcs)
3 unbolt the downpipe from the exhaust as well.
4 now that that's out of the way, unbolt the 9 12mm self clamping bolts from the existing manifold. honda recommends you replace these, but i didn't.
5 remove the old exhaust gasket and replace.
6 unbolt the radiator mount, and slip the radiator out of its little O mount things at the bottom and let it hang a bit lower (flush with the radiator support)
7 i then unbolted the alternator and moved it out of my way.
8 now, this is the part which annoys me. I'm using HASport Mounts so this might be different for some of you other guys. i had to first, place a chuck of wood on the jack and make sure it was secure. then i placed the jack under the oil pan. jacked it up just until it touched the pan.
9 then i unbolted the driver mount from the top and then loosened the side so it was able to pivot freely. i did the side bolt for the rear mount as well.
10 once the mounts were loosened, i jacked up the motor about 4" - 6". slowly so the oil pan is not damaged. (reason for the block of wood.)
11 next i finagled the header into place. it was quite a pain in the ***. i also had to bend the lower left A/C mount thing down a bit. i got the header under the oil pan, and in place, but the motor has to be lowered for it to slide over the studs.
12 had to band it in a bit. i used a large punch with a rag over it so i wouldn't scratch or dent the header. and i hit it with a hammer just enough so it fit onto the studs.
13 once the header was on and in place, i lowered the engine a bit and bolted the mounts tight again.
14 now the tricky part... tightening the 9 12mm bolts onto the studs. i got them all on and hand tight and then proceeded to tighten them. a couple were easy with a regular 3/8 drive ratchet. then some went well with the 1/4 drive ratchet. some i had to use a open end wrend for. and others were just a ridiculous pain in the ***. the runners are just so close together that its very hard to fit tools and hands in there. take your time and be sure not to get frustrated. this is the hardest and longest part.
15 once thats done, step back and have a beer. header is installed.
from here you may want to do exhaust work, but i can't help you there. I'm still waiting on a mid-pipe.
IMAGES: (taken from an-r.com website)
shown non ceramic coated with merge collector
i hope to have some more pics of mine. in the car and whatnot. but my cam was stolen and i have to wait for a friend to bring one. soon enough!
hope this is helpful for some.
Car: 95 Civic EX Coupe
Engine: JDM H22A w/Lsd Transmission
Mounts: HASport
Specs:
Hand Made for Naturally Aspirated Engines
Specifically Design for Optimal Flow and Power Gains
Equal Length Stepped 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" Primaries
Improves Engine Output in Mid-Upper RPM Range
Increased Ground Clearance
4 into 1 Design Primaries
2.5" Collector
Available in either Street or Merge Collector
Will Not Clear Factory A/C Condenser
Will only fit H-Series (H22) Swap in 92+ Civic and 94+ Accord chassis
and now for my opinions: (5
= best)LOOKS:
this thing will attract attention. some mechanics that were at the shop were in awe. they absolutely loved the look of it.
DESIGN:
seems to be well designed. like nothing i ever saw before. looks like a good amount of time went into this piece. only flaw in the design IMO is the placing of the o2 bung. its closer to the front of the motor. my o2 sensor is wired and perfect to fit towards the back of the block. meaning i now have to run wires under the oil pan or around something and it will be ugly, or prone to melting.
PRICE:
at $530 for the street collector, it wasn't a bad price at all. but i had to splurge another $180! just for ceramic coating. thats the only downside. i don't prefer the raw weld and raw metal look. so it was my choice to spend a little more. total cost $710 free shipping! (stainless steel is $230 extra.) (merge collector is $730)
QUALITY:
this header was very well constructed. good welds, nice bends, and the ceramic coating was near flawless. (few marks but nothing bad at all)
SOUND:
open header is a nice loud low grumble. i haven't bolted and exhaust to it yet. but so far, the growl of it open header is amazing compared to the sound of the stock manifold.
SHIPPING:
shipping was free from FedEx with tracking info. it came two days early which is a plus. but the box was pretty crushed like someone walked on it. probably the FedEx guys, but the header was undamaged. if the box was better, this could have been a 5 star aspect.
EASE OF INSTALL:
it wasn't exactly hard at all, but its a pain in the *** if you ask me, compared to my old greddy header on my d16. i had to jack up the car, unbolt the rear and driver's motor mounts, then jack up the motor about 4 inches. then i had to unbolt the alternator and move the radiator down a bit. just so i could fit it in. bolting it down was the worst part.
PERFORMANCE: ?????
unfortunately, i didn't have $ to dyno this header. not only that, but i could not drive my car that day either. so i have no PROOF of performance gains. although, it has been said to give an 11HP increase over DC Sports header for the H22.
GROUND CLEARANCE:
there is a good amount of ground clearance. my exhaust and header were always the lowest part of my car, so its good enough. my car is slammed on neuspeed race springs on tokico illuminas and i don't think this header will be any more of a problem then the stock manifold. maybe about 1/2" difference.
-----
Install Procedure:
1 start off by jacking up the car and putting it on jack stands.
2 next, unbolt the existing manifold from the downpipe. (stock is 2pcs)
3 unbolt the downpipe from the exhaust as well.
4 now that that's out of the way, unbolt the 9 12mm self clamping bolts from the existing manifold. honda recommends you replace these, but i didn't.
5 remove the old exhaust gasket and replace.
6 unbolt the radiator mount, and slip the radiator out of its little O mount things at the bottom and let it hang a bit lower (flush with the radiator support)
7 i then unbolted the alternator and moved it out of my way.
8 now, this is the part which annoys me. I'm using HASport Mounts so this might be different for some of you other guys. i had to first, place a chuck of wood on the jack and make sure it was secure. then i placed the jack under the oil pan. jacked it up just until it touched the pan.
9 then i unbolted the driver mount from the top and then loosened the side so it was able to pivot freely. i did the side bolt for the rear mount as well.
10 once the mounts were loosened, i jacked up the motor about 4" - 6". slowly so the oil pan is not damaged. (reason for the block of wood.)
11 next i finagled the header into place. it was quite a pain in the ***. i also had to bend the lower left A/C mount thing down a bit. i got the header under the oil pan, and in place, but the motor has to be lowered for it to slide over the studs.
12 had to band it in a bit. i used a large punch with a rag over it so i wouldn't scratch or dent the header. and i hit it with a hammer just enough so it fit onto the studs.
13 once the header was on and in place, i lowered the engine a bit and bolted the mounts tight again.
14 now the tricky part... tightening the 9 12mm bolts onto the studs. i got them all on and hand tight and then proceeded to tighten them. a couple were easy with a regular 3/8 drive ratchet. then some went well with the 1/4 drive ratchet. some i had to use a open end wrend for. and others were just a ridiculous pain in the ***. the runners are just so close together that its very hard to fit tools and hands in there. take your time and be sure not to get frustrated. this is the hardest and longest part.
15 once thats done, step back and have a beer. header is installed.
from here you may want to do exhaust work, but i can't help you there. I'm still waiting on a mid-pipe.
IMAGES: (taken from an-r.com website)
shown non ceramic coated with merge collector
i hope to have some more pics of mine. in the car and whatnot. but my cam was stolen and i have to wait for a friend to bring one. soon enough!

hope this is helpful for some.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm aira »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice review. definately let us know how the performance is.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no doubt. i definitly will!
thanks by the way
my first ever review lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22ek4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why did you have to unbolt the motor mount and jack up the motor? Did you try to install the header by going under the car and up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i had to unbolt it so i could jack it up. and i had to jack it up because it would not fit either way. i tried coming up from the bottom, but the header just doesn't clear anything.
and plus, the guy giang at an-r emailed me saying i have to do that for the install when he gave me tracking info.
maybe in an ek chassis it's different, but i had NO room to work with to fit it in
</TD></TR></TABLE>no doubt. i definitly will!
thanks by the way
my first ever review lol<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22ek4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why did you have to unbolt the motor mount and jack up the motor? Did you try to install the header by going under the car and up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i had to unbolt it so i could jack it up. and i had to jack it up because it would not fit either way. i tried coming up from the bottom, but the header just doesn't clear anything.
and plus, the guy giang at an-r emailed me saying i have to do that for the install when he gave me tracking info.
maybe in an ek chassis it's different, but i had NO room to work with to fit it in
Nice review man. I hope to see more of them. Other people could learn from your format.
Also, when you can, give us a driving impression. I can only imagine how sweet it's going to be.
Also, when you can, give us a driving impression. I can only imagine how sweet it's going to be.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">post pix of header & motor + car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i will as soon as i can get a cam to borrow.
promise!
</TD></TR></TABLE>i will as soon as i can get a cam to borrow.
promise!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AN-R.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should be similiar to this:
btw, you forgot to rate the customer service</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, looks just like that
good to see you on the board.
and customer service was excellent! answered all of my questions promptly and was very easy to deal with. no problems
so everybody go order your header now lol
btw, you forgot to rate the customer service</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, looks just like that
good to see you on the board.and customer service was excellent! answered all of my questions promptly and was very easy to deal with. no problems
so everybody go order your header now lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AN-R.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should be similiar to this:
btw, you forgot to rate the customer service</TD></TR></TABLE>
where'd the alternator go?
btw, you forgot to rate the customer service</TD></TR></TABLE>
where'd the alternator go?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GraphiteAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
where'd the alternator go?</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe they moved it for installation like i had to???
where'd the alternator go?</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe they moved it for installation like i had to???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j.fuggi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
maybe they moved it for installation like i had to???</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah but to where?
maybe they moved it for installation like i had to???</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah but to where?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah but to where? </TD></TR></TABLE>
out of the picture???
i had to unbolt mine, and move it out of the way. i could see someone getting the header on and just snapping a pic without putting everything back together. no?
yeah but to where? </TD></TR></TABLE>
out of the picture???
i had to unbolt mine, and move it out of the way. i could see someone getting the header on and just snapping a pic without putting everything back together. no?
would this be an ideal header for a 2.0L built LS/Vtec???? i am not really looking foreward to spending near $1000 for a hytech or smsp (i know its worth it).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoolinLS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">really nice write-up man
i love the looks of that manifold, incredible!!! the real question, was it worth the price?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks
as for being worth the price, to me, the looks alone, are amzing, not $710 amazing, but definitly say, $200 more amazing than say a greddy header ya know?
as for performance, if it truely does produce an 11hp gain OVER dc sports as i read someplace but forget, then it's worth its weight in gold if you ask me.
either way, i'm happy with it. driving impression and pics soon as possible!
i love the looks of that manifold, incredible!!! the real question, was it worth the price?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks
as for being worth the price, to me, the looks alone, are amzing, not $710 amazing, but definitly say, $200 more amazing than say a greddy header ya know?
as for performance, if it truely does produce an 11hp gain OVER dc sports as i read someplace but forget, then it's worth its weight in gold if you ask me.
either way, i'm happy with it. driving impression and pics soon as possible!
nice write up, but it seems like you went through alot morte work then i did. i just had to remove the alternator and the alternator bracket and slide it in through the side. i was using the place mount kit ina 92 civic 4 door.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.4roadrunner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn, lots of pics of my header! lol
even pics of my car!
Gotta love it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what? where?
even pics of my car!
Gotta love it.</TD></TR></TABLE>what? where?


