ok guys my latest outing has been to take out the power steering in my integra.

overall it was pretty simple/easy but theres always a ton of people asking questions so i decided a detailed write up is in order.

basically if you think this is a good idea and you dont mind having a little more effort in parking situations then this is a great low cost job.

before you try and do any of this read every page in this 5 page thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=184202&page=1

overal review is that its next to impossible to move the wheel while not moving but the second the car starts to roll its bearable. tight 3 point turns are no longer a joy lets put it this way. once your going about 5 MPH however it becomes perfectly streetable. turning requires effort but nothing that the normal person cant handle easily. at about 15-20 steering is light with only sharp turns requiring effort. 40+ its as if it was still there... only real sharp turns do you notice it.

overall effort is slightly more than my old del sol with no PS from the factory

i can finally feel the road again though and you actually feel whats going on when you turn the wheel. steering is just as responsive you just have to pu effort into sharp turns that you used to be able to do quickly with PS.

power differences are basically small. ill put it like this, you know how it feels when you have NO gas compared to a 3/4 / full tank. thats what it feels like now with a full tank. car seems more responsive. its suposed to give you an even 2hp or sumthin through out the power band i dunno how much but i do know that its noticable though.

the parts that are involved to do this the correct way (just pulling the belt off the pulley is not the correct way) are usually whats confusing to people so thus the write up.

basically to describe it you are removing the pump, all the lines, fluid, and re routing the inlet and outlet ports in the P/S rack to allow air/venting into the system. the fluid in the rack is there to lubricate it and doin this method you keep fluid in there but you make it an open system (stock is a closed high pressure system) doing this allows easier movement of the wheel so your not fighting the pressure inside the rack.

parts involved (for me)

4x 3/8 barb to 1/4 pipe adapter
1 1/4 pipe T
1 3/8 to 1/4 pipe adapter (used as lock nut for inside breather)
1 1/4 Female pipe to 1/4 male pipe 90 degree elbow
about 3 feet of 3/8 fuel hose
aeroquip 14mm x 1.5 to AN 6 adapter PN FCM2240 3 bux
aeroquip AN 6 to 3/8 barb adapter PN FCM1512 10 bux
search for these part #'s in summit racing to order them
1 moroso filter (from my catch can that i didnt use) mounted on top of an A-10 30mm shell for a breather tank
hondabond to seal tank

procedure geos as follows:

1: remove a line from the PS system (be prepared for fluid) and put the end that flows OUT FROM the pump into some kinda pan and start the car to drain the fluid. the pump wil run out quick so stop when nothing comes out

2: remove all lines/pump engine brackets and belt. once all lines are out jack car up and move the wheel side to side to get all the extra fluid out of the rack.

you should have this removed when your done



the 2 parts circled are important. the upper left one is the location of the "power cooler hose" found on non gsr's. it can be ordered from acura and is used to loop the in/out ports

the second in the bottom right is the metric and i stress its METRIC compression fitting. when you remove this item you will be left with a empty 14mm x 1.5 threaded hole that you will thread the aeroquip fittings into basically to make it so you can attatch a 3/8 hose into it.

3: ill show you my "after picture" and my "explained after picture" becaus eits ahrd to visualize what you do. basically you use the 180 degree bent hose to loop the in/out and splice in a breather line into it.





then i run the line from the T to my breather tank with i made by putting my left over filter from my moroso catch can onto a 30mm a-10 (the airplane) shell with a whole drilled into it to accept the 90 degree fitting with barb hose end onto it.



thats pretty much it. its easy to do but its very confusing if you havent done it before.

heres some more pics of the engine bay....

no more PS (still AC )


whoe engine bay


once again this whoel thing was done off the info in this thread here
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=184202&page=1

 

good write up. i just cant see the real point to doing this. i've drive plenty on non-ps cars. and for the overall outcome i'de rather have to ps then take it out. to me its more benificial to remove the a/c componets then the ps. you'll save alot more weight.

 

i agree, there is more benifit to removing a/c than the PS. however i cant take my ac out yet cause i still need it. i do feel that this was worth it though... (to me)

 

The lower (iron?) bracket that the pump bolted to can/should be removed as well if you are looking for maximum weight-savings.

 

yeah i know... its just not that easy to do hehe... i tried, failed misserably and gave up. i think it must weigh what, .5 lbs hehe

basically the AC is in the way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">basically the AC is in the way</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know, but with a box wrench and either a bar to slip over it or a hammer to break the bolts, it can be removed. We just did this on a '98 and I was expecting them to be extremely difficult to break, but they didn't give us too much trouble. And FWIW, according to my bathroom scale, it weighs approximately 2 lbs.

EDIT: For those who are interested, total weight-savings (including that bracket ) amount to ~16 lbs. when removing the entire PS system.

 

i swapped them over (the mounts) from my b18b to the b20 so i know how they come off but i put them on with the motor out of the car. however my BFH would shatter the only 14mm wrench i have right now. ill do it later... however in the mean time ill work on a 2 lb crap to get that extra weight out...

 

that is an awesome writeup

I should add wait a week or two...your arms will be built up enough to barely notice the stiffness in the wheel (except when going slow).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ill do it later... however in the mean time ill work on a 2 lb crap to get that extra weight out...</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, seriously, the best weight saver is probably putting a lot of the guys on this board on a treadmill.

I swear I dropped the cosby's off at teh pool one time and the car was faster on the way back

 

Nice writeup BTW

 

ooh.. if I get bored ill do this. Thank you for taking the time to post that up for us

 

Hey i just did the same thing on my project. I should take some pics myself. The only difference is that I vented the rack off one of the lower metal hoses instead of the "U" hose. Mine is pretty easy to turn at anything more then a dead stop, although I can't stand the power steering on a integra to begin with, its WAY to light especially on the highway.

Overall I think its great for steering feel. I wouldn't really do it as a weight saver unless I was going all out. Also it may not be for the weaklings out there, but overall if you've driven an older SUV then the teg without PS is easy to drive.

 

i just took out my ps and let the ps drain untill it would drain no more. Left the hose danglin in the engine bay.

 

I'm gonna do it the easy way and order the quick ratio, non-PS race base ITR rack from Honda Primo

 

no kidding, i weigh 215!

of course im 6'3" so im not out to loose weight....

anyway yeah you can vent the metal hard lines too but i think this is essentially the same thing. the small amount of power/weight is nice but the main thing is to get the feel back of non PS. i missed how the steering was on my del sol.

 

danmn! u did it the "cool" way, i jus have a hose that jumps between the lines

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm gonna do it the easy way and order the quick ratio, non-PS race base ITR rack from Honda Primo </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know if I would call that the easy way, spending all that money and then having to pull out the entire rack assembly, put the other one in, and then get an alignment since you changed the toe settings after changing the rack.

 

Driving a car that only runs 15s is bad enough. Driving it with no P.S. or A/C would really suck.

 

Personally I like the feel of no ps better than with.

I go back to a car with power steering and I a feel very disconnected from the road.

 

i took the P.S. belt off my EJ and man that **** flys a whole hellava lot faster upon accelleration.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by koco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Driving a car that only runs 15s is bad enough. Driving it with no P.S. or A/C would really suck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what the hell is this supposed to mean?

first off i have ac second i like not having the PS and third what does my 1/4 mile time have to do with anything? you dont even know how fast my car is (ive never even run it at the track)

im not saying it is fast cause it isnt but i dont get your post

besides a turbo will cure the lack of power anyway hehe

 

 

nice write-up. I am still wondering how much of a difference there is with your method (teeing off at the rubber hoses) vs teeing the ps metal line method? Anyone have first hand experience? Basically what id like to know is, is turning the wheels as easy as turning a manual steering rack like on the crx?

 

Nice writeup! Interesting how you used a filter instead of just a reservoir.

 

i didnt see the point of a reservoir so i just put a filter in there with some form of chamber incase it spills over the hose (though i dont see how this could happen)

as far as the metal line vs this hose i dont see how there could be a difference performance wise as i belive these points are basically the same in the rack. it is however cheaper to do it this way. im pretty sure that the guys from real time said they actually t the hose itself also.