this weekend i decided i wanted to monitor the air intake temps of my new JRSC. i think i wanted to see so that i'd convince myself to save up for LHT's intercooler anyways, i went to radioshack and picked up an indoor/outdoor thermometer for $15. then i went to the hardware store and got a fitting for $1 that would screw into the manifold where the pressure sensor usually goes (i'm not using the pressure sensor since i'm not using the crappy JR relay trick). so after the help of a little JB Weld epoxy, i secured the remote sensor in the fitting, hooked it all up, and it works like a charm. the highest temps i saw today were around 150 deg F anways, heres a little pic to give you a better idea of the sensor:

 

nice monitor/guage. what psi was this at ont the 150 degree mark and what was the temp outside roughly?

 

i'm guessing the temp outside was about 65-70, and its a cloudy day. this is the stock pulley, so the boost was around 6psi (i read the temp after redlining a few gears). i've also noticed that it doesnt take much to get the manifold heatsoaked.

 

good idea you got there. i wonder how well this would work on turbo'ed?

if i was to construct that same thing would i plumb it into the IM or my charge piping?

 

yeah it could work for on your charge pipe, however it would be more accurate if it was in the manifold. if you put it on your manifold, it would involve removing the manifold and drilling/tapping a hole for the fitting.

 

LOL... bump up the boost to 10 psi and see what that thing reads. 230+ my man...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRSCCivic98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL... bump up the boost to 10 psi and see what that thing reads. 230+ my man...</TD></TR></TABLE>


dammm...so much for that every 10 degree intake air you drop you gain X amount of hp theory...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRSCCivic98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL... bump up the boost to 10 psi and see what that thing reads. 230+ my man...</TD></TR></TABLE>

no thanks, thats why i'll intercool it before considering any kind of a boost upgrade.

 

Im curious what an intercooled turbo setup reads for intake temps at say ~10psi.

 

whats the max temp the gauge can read? good idea, it would be nice if someone culd do this on FMIC then water IC

 

 

I tried this with a similar thermometer that read up to 200 F but I ended up melting the probe... anyway, I bought a Venom Engine Temp meter and hooked it up to the IAT sensor, and have been using that as an indicator of just how friggin' hot the air is leaving the blower....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96IntegraRS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried this with a similar thermometer that read up to 200 F but I ended up melting the probe... anyway, I bought a Venom Engine Temp meter and hooked it up to the IAT sensor, and have been using that as an indicator of just how friggin' hot the air is leaving the blower....

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yeah mine only reads up to 160 deg F. i hope i dont melt my probe. when you hooked up the venom meter to your IAT, was the IAT still connected to your ecu as well? in other words, is it possible to use one IAT hooked up to both the ECU and the meter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keebler65 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah mine only reads up to 160 deg F. i hope i dont melt my probe. when you hooked up the venom meter to your IAT, was the IAT still connected to your ecu as well? in other words, is it possible to use one IAT hooked up to both the ECU and the meter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes - I have the IAT t-tapped into the Venom gauge, as well as going into the ECU. The only snag with this setup is that the MAP mod "turns off" the IAT output in boost - so you can only see the LED's in vacuum - working on a fix for this.

I need to make some sort of scale that has a calibrated temperature that corresponds with the LED's... when boosting for a while, the left-most segment will light up. During normal driving, the 4th from the left is usually lit.

ALSO - cold air, from OUTSIDE the engine bay, makes a big (I estimate 30 degree difference) on air intake temps - obvioulsly the colder air to the JRSC the better. 1 full LED on the Venom unit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96IntegraRS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes - I have the IAT t-tapped into the Venom gauge, as well as going into the ECU. The only snag with this setup is that the MAP mod "turns off" the IAT output in boost - so you can only see the LED's in vacuum - working on a fix for this.
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are you tapping it at the sensor or at the ecu? because if you were to tap it at the sensor, i would think that the meter would work in and out of boost regardless of what the map mod is doing.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ALSO - cold air, from OUTSIDE the engine bay, makes a big (I estimate 30 degree difference) on air intake temps - obvioulsly the colder air to the JRSC the better. 1 full LED on the Venom unit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats good to know. i was considering making an "icebox" intake similar to the comptech design but i wasnt sure if it would make that big of a difference. maybe i'll look into that.

thanks for your thoughts on this topic.

 

Good Info

 

"are you tapping it at the sensor or at the ecu? because if you were to tap it at the sensor, i would think that the meter would work in and out of boost regardless of what the map mod is doing."


That's what I thought too... Tapped directly at sensor - so it's not actually being turned off but the voltage is being manipulated by the MAP, and that's why the Venom unit doesn't ready anything.

Any thoughts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRSCCivic98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL... bump up the boost to 10 psi and see what that thing reads. 230+ my man...</TD></TR></TABLE>i'm boosting up to 12 psi and I've NEVER seen over 180º in the Intake Temp.

 

I'm running 9 psi and I see intake temps as high as 200 all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sharkcohen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running 9 psi and I see intake temps as high as 200 all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow. that's amazingly hot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96IntegraRS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

"are you tapping it at the sensor or at the ecu? because if you were to tap it at the sensor, i would think that the meter would work in and out of boost regardless of what the map mod is doing."


That's what I thought too... Tapped directly at sensor - so it's not actually being turned off but the voltage is being manipulated by the MAP, and that's why the Venom unit doesn't ready anything.

Any thoughts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can probably use a Diode in-line that will basically allow the signal from the IAT to go to the MAP mod and then to the ECU, but not effect the venom gauge... basically like this:

IAT---&gt;Venom Tap---&gt; Diode---&gt; Map Mod----&gt; ECU

Know what i mean?

 

I regularly saw 200 deg intake temps @ 6 psi. 150 is actually pretty low. Are you sure you haven't reached the limit on that thermometer? If it's a simple indoor/outdoor type thing, it may not have the range that you need.

Sonny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sonny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I regularly saw 200 deg intake temps @ 6 psi. 150 is actually pretty low. Are you sure you haven't reached the limit on that thermometer? If it's a simple indoor/outdoor type thing, it may not have the range that you need.

Sonny
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well its limit is 160, and every once in awhile i'll go over that limit and then it just reads "HHH" lol. that means buy an intercooler. anyways it doesnt seem to happen too often on my setup, so it seems to work well for my application.

 

The diode would probably work. What I don't know is if the MAP tells the IAT to go to ground or something, in which case that would not work - I'll try it and report back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sonny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you sure you haven't reached the limit on that thermometer? If it's a simple indoor/outdoor type thing, it may not have the range that you need.

Sonny
</TD></TR></TABLE>not mine... cause it's a stock Honda AIT sensor.